co2 spray is no good, some of it gets sucked into the intake, it reduces power.

the system im building has capability for water injection in the future, i dont need it just yet for the boost that i'm running at the moment.

the disco potato is a very very close match in size to the standard ct20b turbo, size wise its inbetween a ct26 and a ct20b, psi for psi it runs at a very close match for fuelling. the main difference is the ball bearing means that the turbo reaches maximum boost at the same time your foot hits the floor, this also means the turbine is still spinning freely and still making power at boost levels where a ct (or any journal bearing turbo of same size) would die off.

once i have an aftermarket ecu i will raise the boost from 1.0bar i'm running at the moment to 1.4bar with water injection as my high setting, and 1.0bar as my low setting without water

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jun 27, 2011 - 8:59 AM

fuel pumps shouldn't be used as water pumps, the internals of a fuel pump will corrode with water. so start planning on a pump repalcement for when this one fails. other than that, you have a great setup and intercooler spray + water injection will yield nice numbers even at 1.0 bar

Why would it be sucked into the intake and reduce power? the whole point would be to lower the anti-freeze to very low temps to get a good run

Rims need a clean.


CO₂ (Carbon dioxide) is the last thing you want going into your intake, it's a fire extinguisher

Another engine pic I have




>
Lol, That'd be awesome, extinguish my engine power.

I saw a video on youtube many years ago where they tested co2 and no2 sprays on a dyno, and with an open element filter they got gains on no2 and losses on co2 due to the engine ingesting some of this , then they tried again by running a long 3" intake pipe through a hole in the wall and mounting the air filter in another room and both got similar gains of a handful of hp


Waiting for some time with the engineer to make a proper water/ice tank for the boot, I have some real good tricks coming up that should basically freeze my intake temps lol, It'll be as bling as whats in my engine bay too... Make the car feel like it's always driving at night time

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jul 18, 2011 - 8:51 AM

ROFL! i think i saw u car yesterday!!!.......around Ti Rakau dr....maybe..haha

nice pic on the engine bay pretty clean

just freeze ur intercooler BEFORE you race.

@lzha: maybe...

@neon: you'll see what i have in store... promise it will be good

im going +1 on the tte system

Updates??

That bay is inspiring.

Looking good Mike.

I was going to comment on your Faff, but then I saw silver Supra...:drool:

Good stuff guy.

while engine being forged i got a chance to make some shiney bits

Few bits and bobs for engine build






Also have/on the way (full list)

for engine
✔ tgp full gasket set
✔tgp water pump assy
✔ tgp oil pump assy
✔tgp idler bearing
✔tgp tensioner bearing
✔tgp main tensioner
✔tgp cambelt
trd thermostat
2x trd s-type radiator caps

non toyota parts
✔je pistons 86.5mm
✔eagle rods
✔acl race bearings
✔arp main studs
✔arp head studs

for oil catch can
✔4x 999-10-D -10 male alu weld on
2m 400-10 hose
2x 403-10 90 deg hose end
2x 401-10 straight hose end
✔1x 999-06-D -6 male alu weld on
1x 401-06 straight hose end

for header tank
1x 704406FS40 xrp 40micron filter threaded body -6 an ends
1x 999-06-D -6 male alu weld on
1.5m 400-06 -6 hose
1x 950-06-04 Speedflow - Aluminium Female-Male Flare Reducer -6 to -4
2x 401-06 -6 straight hose end
1x 981604 xrp -4 to 1/8bsp straight anodize adaptor
3x 999-04-D -4 male alu weld on
.5m 400-04 -4 hose
5x 401-04 -4 straight hose end
radiator neck

for plenum
4x 381-04 Speedflow - Steel AN/JIC to Pipe Thread Adapters 1/8bspt to -4
4x 401-04 -4 straight hose end

Builds done

Off the top of my head...

Forged 3SGTE block
- Decked, rebored, acid dipped, balanced
- All new genuine gasket set, tensioners, pulleys, oil and water pump
- JE pistons 86.5mm, Eagle rods, all ARP studs, ACL race bearings, Clutchmasters FX400

Rebuilt stock head - Decked, reshimmed, 3 angle valve grind, all that good stuff, just factory cams.

Tial 44mm gate, modified pipework to accomodate the Tial gate on the existing T28 manifold, Procoat black ceramic coated, internal gate filled and actuator removed, custom water header tank and oil catch tank.

Probably missing some things ...

congrates on the build.

Do you think you might do a wiretuck or a tubetuck in the future to tidy up the engine bay a bit more?

haha yes, it's very messy at the moment, it was all hooked up to get it running, i dont plan to keep it looking like sphagetti bolognaise no

Thats very very very nice, look forward to seeing this next gt4 meet

updated photo, a bit tidier now, also got a new bonnet vent shield custom made its really cool maybe might give some people a few ideas i'll take a photo when its daylight.









This post has been edited by delusionz: Jul 4, 2012 - 3:00 AM

Hi Mike,

great built, does i ask you where you connected the header tank and from where the breathing tank comes from?

greetz

niice stuff mike

>

Hi Sunny, I have -4 AN welded on the top of the water outlet elbow to feed the header tank, and -6 AN return to the bottom hose. The header tank is also fed by -4 AN from the old radiator overflow. The breather tank is -10AN and the rocker cover was stripped of PCV valve and metal press-in fitting replaced by weld-in bungs. Both tanks are custom made





Here are some pictures of the shield, it needs some bufffing and some autosol, just made of alloy







Reason for this, my manifold sits higher than the factory manifold, and the cardboard shield almost caught fire

+ the rain water pools up in the manifold and causes rust to it and the turbo, etc

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jun 29, 2012 - 6:53 AM

Nice shield I'd like to make something similar soon. Though I've heard multiple times that a little rain through the vent won't cause rust, I'm skeptical. Plus there's only a BEAMS under my hood, so no need for the extra ventilation. I can't say that my shield will look as nice as yours though.

my stainless steel mani rusted from water aswell

It is a very simple design , I poked the grill into a piece of cardboard to get the mounting holes right and traced the outline then trimmed it back to 10mm of the mounting holes, transfer template to sheet of aluminium. Then just 2 slits in the middle, bend it back and weld 2 triangle pieces , its good to have an engineer who's good with the tig

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jun 28, 2012 - 8:19 PM