Volk Racing Wheels

Rays Engineering

http://www.mackinindustries.com
http://www.rayswheels.com Please use the Japanese to English Translator @ http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/tr

Corporate Headquarters
9921 Jordan Circle
P.O. Box 4025
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
562.946.6820 Tel
562.944.7719 Fax

Online Marketing
Hiroshi Hamada Design Studio
13238 Florence Avenue
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
shop@mackinindustries.com

Japan Office
Kyo-Ei Industrial Corp.
1-13-21 Nishi-Shinsaibashi
Chuo-Ku, Osaka, Japan
06.6244.0321 Tel
06.6244.0395 Fax

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 15, 2003 - 10:58 AM

This is a quote from Nitto site on a very new release tire.

http://www.nittotire.com

Competition Dot Radial

"The Nitto NT-555RII Extreme R road race and auto cross competition radial tire was developed through a unique fusion between a race circuit oriented stiff sidewall construction and the popular Nitto Drag Radial tread pattern. These features combined with the high traction, specially formulated soft racing tread compound resulted in a competition radial that exhibits impressive control and handling, to provide maximum traction under severe racing conditions. The Nitto NT-555RII is designed primarily for competition road racing. The sidewall construction is optimized for handling extreme lateral acceleration; vehicles may experience rougher riding when used for daily driving."'


Also, Michelin to my believe have a new tire also.
http://www.michelinman.com

Quote from TireRack:

"Developed for drivers who participate in autocross and track events, the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup is a DOT legal street competition radial that is designed to increase driving excitement by providing class winning traction and handling.

On the outside, the Pilot Sport Cup uses dual zone tread compounds with the outer shoulder compound optimized for dry handling and the inside shoulder compound focused on wet traction. These tread compounds are molded into a 6/32” deep asymmetric tread design that features a massive outer shoulder rib to further enhance steering response and cornering stability while circumferential grooves and independent tread blocks are used on the inner portion of the tread design to enhance damp track traction. Internally, the Pilot Sport Cup features two, full-width steel belts reinforced with Michelin’s Banded At Zero (BAZ) technology to stiffen the tread area to help prevent the contact area from distorting during aggressive acceleration, cornering and braking. The Pilot Sport Cup radial’s basic sidewall materials and architecture have been carried forward from Michelin’s Pilot Sport line of Max Performance tires.

Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires feature sidewall styling with subtle black letters. They are be available in selected 55-, 50-, 45-, 40-, 35- and 30-series, Y-speed rated sizes for 15", 16”, 17” and 18" wheel diameters."


http://www.goodyeartires.com/

The Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 also seems to be very well develop to take out the Bridgestone Potenza S03. This tire is getting very good reviews. But as always, the Potenza tires from bridgestone age with very little lost in grip.

Does Goodyear have that ability? There do not avertise it.

I do hope that Bridgestone comes with a new tire to compete again in the Max Performance tire arena

This post has been edited by west_minist: Apr 18, 2003 - 9:25 PM

I was reading through the Super Street Magazine and came across this very good Gauge system.

To me, it is better that the Greddy, Apexi, HKS and Blitz.

The Gauge system that I am talking about is the Defi-Link System.

http://www.defi-shop.com/product/dl/dl_top.htm

This is a qote from there beautiful website.

"The Defi-Link system is a set of electronic gauges that can be mounted on the vehicle dashboard.

The design of this system allows each gauge to be attached to the control unit II with a single "DAISY CHAIN" wiring system.
Both meters and Control Unit II are equipped with microcomputers.. Distant meters can be operated at hand.

The system is also designed to allow all sensors to be attached to the control unit II, so that the gauges can be mounted separately without the need for multiple tubing or wiring to each gauge.

Available gauges are boost(for turbocharged and supercharged engines), intake manifold pressure(for natural aspirated engine), oil pressure, water temperature, oil temperature, fuel pressure, exhaust gas temperature and tachometer.

Driving data can be stored and can be replayed up to 3 minutes(*1). Pause, speed play, forward, and rewind function can be applied during playback.

Double Warning function by a meter's LED lamp and a beep(*2)

The switch panel is embossed and buzzer sounds by pushing the buttons.

The characters and the rings on the switch panel are illuminated in white at nighttime. It makes operation in the dark easy.

Defi-Link Indicator(sold separately) can be connected to M-WARNING connector. The indicator blinks when any of connected meters' warning LED light.

Differential pressure between fuel pressure and turbo can be shown if both of fuel pressure meter and turbo meter are installed.(*3)

UP to 7 gauges among from Defi-Link Meters and Defi-Link Meter BFs and Defi-Link Displays can be operated with one Control Unit II. Microcomputers are equipped with meters and Control Unit II. A distant meter can be operated at hand. DAISY CHAIN connection can not be applied to connect Defi-Link Meters and Defi-Link Meter BFs. Please refer to CONNECTION CAPACITY on the left.
"

If there are others out there that better this system, please dropped me a line.

Thanx

This post has been edited by west_minist: Apr 18, 2003 - 9:27 PM

I just came across a tire from Japan to rival the Bridgestone Potenza RE01.

I must state that the RE01 have all of this technology from since 2000+

This new tire is the Yokoha Advan AD07

http://www.advan.com/product/f-set.html

I do not know if I stated this before, but there are only 2 tire rivals in Japan.

They are Yokohama Advan and Bridgestone Potenza

This post has been edited by west_minist: Apr 18, 2003 - 9:26 PM

to bad i can't read japanese

Here is the translation using http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/tr

Translation of the Details button for the AD07:






-Adding van * ネオバ * a D * zero NANA - pattern number: AD07 - steel belt radial - tubeless - tire for car

- High dry grip many the private compound which the harsh test repeatedly was developed new development tread pattern, actualizes the dry grip where the fighting う cAdvan is high.

-The high WET efficiency private compound pulled up also wet grip more, balance could point to dry & wet in the higher-order origin with the tuning of profile and structure.

-Not only the handling speed which makes the driver uplift, it pursues " the enjoyment which can send the car ". The NEOVA which designates the person whom it runs as that air traces the line which you aimed securely, grasps the road surface.

-This way furthermore in the customer - dry travelling efficiency and the wet travelling efficiency which are superior in the customer whom you seek at high level.
- In the customer who would like to taste the power efficiency of the advanced sport car freely.
-In the customer who would like to be leveled up from the DNA GP.

Because the ADVAN NEOVA AD07 has adopted directivity pattern, the case of installing the rotation mark which is carved to the side wall () in order for everything to become identical direction, please adjust to direction of rotation of the tire, install.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 8, 2003 - 8:09 PM

For sometime, the Header topics keeps on popping up on the forum.

I will put this to rest if I can (and you have some money.)

I do not know how much it cost, but a small cost is well worth it from the experience.

Please use this link to you full and devoted HP advantage.

Reading pleasure: http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechArticles...ory/theory.html

Burns Stainless
http://www.burnsstainless.com
1013 W. 18th St.
Costa Mesa
Ca 92627

949-631-5120
vince@burnsstainless.com

This post has been edited by west_minist: Apr 28, 2003 - 9:04 PM

Yesterday, I decided to change My 2 Front Toyo Proxes RA1 (185/13) to Bridgestone Potenza GIII 205/13

The RA1 is a racing tire and the GIII is a Sports Tire from Japan.

I cannot really compare the 2 models but I can tell you this, I love the GIII.

When it lets go, you can still feel grip and the noise is sweet. A grippy throaty sound. The toyo just feels like glass until grips takes over. This behaviour is the same on wet.

I have not drving it on the wet yet. But I can tell you for the little water that ran across the road, it handle it better that the RA1. I do not know if I had similar size if the GIII would be inferior.

You may ask why I change. Well when I brought the Bridgestone GR 50 S&S (185/13), I wanted more traction since this was a touring tire that had too much grip compare to the Toyo Proxes F08.

I then decided to get the racing tire from toyo since I could not get Bridgestone GIII (at the time), RE01, RE520S, RE540S from japan or sold here by the bridgestone dealer.

The toyo to me was 1.5 to almost 2 times better that the GR50. I would say 1.6-1.7x

So as you can see, the bridgestone GIII, no available here , would compete nicely with the RA1.

I contacted the delaler and he had 205 and not 185. My rim is very small and I took it to the dealer and he tried on the 205. It fit! >> . I decided 45mins before the dealer shut for the week, I wanted them.

I fits them and they had grip although oily.

My modify subaru revs to 6K rpm. I would rev to that on the RA1 and let go, the tires spins and pick up later. I rev the sub to 6K on the GIII and the tire spin for about less that one sec will the car bogs down to 3Krpm. That is bad. My ignition is coming next week and I will see if this here would still happen. I just cannot get the car to smoke the tires for a long time. Bad GIII's >>

Today, I love them. There now out breaking my Ra1's in the back.

To refresh you, in Japan, there is not racing tire like what the other manufacture have, except Yokohama.

Yokohama and Bridgestone produces tires up to the the Ultra Sport type. After that, real sports.

No half deads in between. See way above to what I am talking about.

Coming soon, Bridgestone Potenza RE55s

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 8, 2003 - 7:00 PM

Thursday was the first time I drove on wet using my GIII's.

The grip is very good.

I have grew so a custom to breaking later and braking hard, that I have lost my sense of the RA1's.

What I can say that it feels like that RA1 will brake a little more, but when let lose, slides like glass.

When the GIII brakes lose, you can still feel grip and there is control.

The GIII has more aquaplaning ability than the RA1, but in this test, the road was just wet.

When I get a change, I will switch my RA1's to the front and put the GIII behind and see what happens.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 8, 2003 - 7:40 PM

Hi Guys!

I promise you this link on the Bridgestone Potenza RE55S tire.

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...ndex_re55s.html

I do not know, but check your local Japanese import dealers for ordering of this tire. This tire is for the serious Import Tuners.

You can click on the links and read. You will start to see this tire more on Japanese cars in the magazines.

It was already showed at the 2003 Japan Autosalon.

Happy reading >>

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 8, 2003 - 8:08 PM

Nology M80
Primary Resistance:0.22
Peak Current:600MA
Secondary Resistance:0.77Kohm
Spark Duration:170uS
Maximum Voltage:50K
Primary Inductance:1.720mH
Turns Ratio:65.96

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CraneCams LX92
Primary resistance: 0.23
Secondary resistance: 0.91K
Primary inductance: 1.7 mH
Secondary inductance: 5.7 H
Leakage inductance: 0.14 mH
Turns ratio: 60:1

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MSD
Blaster HVC Coil, PN 8252
Primary Resistance: 0.2 ohms
Peak Current: 300mA
Secondary Resistance: 1.38K ohms
Spark Duration: 200uS
Maximum Voltage: 42,000 volts
Primary Inductance: 7mH

Blaster HVC II, PN 8253*
Primary Resistance: 0.16 ohms
Peak Current: 450 mA
Secondary Resistance: 630 ohms
Spark Duration: 450 uS
Maximum Voltage: 44,000 volts
Inductance: 3.5 mH
Turns Ratio: 100:1

Pro Power Coil, PN 8201
Primary Resistance: 0.03
Secondary Resistance: 1000 Maximum
Voltage: 55K
OhmsTurns Ratio: 100:1

Pro Power HVC Coil, PN 8251
Primary Resistance: 0.04 ohms
Peak Current: 1100mA
Secondary Resistance: 86 ohms Spark
Duration: 150uS
Maximum Voltage: 45,000 volts
Primary Inductance: 1mH
Turns Ratio: 85:1

HVC-2 Coil, PN 8261
Primary Resistance: 0.016 ohms
Secondary Resistance: 30 ohms
Maximum Voltage: 45,000 volts
Inductance: 0.250 mH
Turns Ratio: 70:1
Peak Current: 2 Amps
Spark Duration: 150 uS

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 7, 2003 - 7:10 AM

I am actually doing the 4agze swap, hopefully the engine will be here in the next week or two, but i'm wondering. If i got some sort of piggy back computer system, how hard is it to program, is this the type of thing that you need a whole lot of knowledge about air fuel ratio's etc etc, or is there some simpler model available? I the the APEX AFC says only someone particularly knowledgeable should perform adjustments, so that to me sounds like i shouldnt touch lol. I will probably be getting an aftermarket computer as well, so would you guys reccomend it for the 4agze?

Just some random thoughts from me....

THX, in advance....

The 4agze ecu controls the supercharger.

As I always tell people, the Z is always the limitation in this setup.

My recommendation to use is to change to a turbo setup which is not hard at all.

By going this direction, it would be easy for you.

Autronic SM & SM2 have autotune mode which learn the basic for an engine. After that tune can be easy, but take a while.

I would alway recommend an aftermarket computer if you can afford rewiring , if you cannot get a harness adapter.

Give Autronics a call and see if there have a harness adapter for the 4AGE. But let them know that you have a 4AGZE which will become a 4AGE or 4AGTE.

Any adjustment of and ecu takes time and you need to have some basic knowledge on what you are looking for, and what changes affect another.

If this does not frightened you, then go ahead.

Custom Headers anyone!

For sometime, the Header topics keeps on popping up on the forum.

I will put this to rest if I can (and you have some money.)

I do not know how much it cost, but a small cost is well worth it from the experience.

Please use this link to your full and devoted HP advantage.

Burns Stainless
http://www.burnsstainless.com
1013 W. 18th St.
Costa Mesa
Ca 92627

949-631-5120
vince@burnsstainless.com

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 29, 2003 - 7:35 AM

High Performance Radiators and Fans

I came across this fantastic manufacture that produces cooling systems for your high performance car.

The name of this company is C&R Racing Inc. http://www.crracing.com

There offer:-

By-Pass Filter Mount
C&R Stop Leak & Water Conditioner
Check Valves
Filter Mounts
Fittings
Heat Exchangers
Hose Connectors
Import Radiators
Integrated Cooling System
Oil Cooler By-Pass Valve
Peterson Accessories
Peterson Fuel Filters
Peterson Oil Tanks
Quick Disconnects
Radiator Caps
Radiator Fans
Radiator Necks
Scirocco Drag Radiators
Setrab Oil Coolers
Staking Tools
Surge Tanks
Thermostat Check Valves
Thermostats
Water Pumps


There produces cooling systems parts for Indy 500, Daytona 500, Brickyard 400, WSC 24-hours of Daytona and Sebring and many more, and parts on cars which won championships in CART, NASCAR Winston Cup, Busch, and Supertruck, IMSA WSC, SCCA Trans-Am, WOO Sprint Car, USAC, IRL, and NHRA.

This manufacturer appeared in Modified magazine.

Catalogues:- http://www.crracing.com/catalogs/

My interest came about in C&R Racing due to the fact that my Subaru fan is going.

SPAL fans are small and produce more cfm than stock and are available in many different sizes to meet your needs. http://www.crracing.com/estore/partdesc.cf...tegory=rad_fans

This is an update on the Bridgestone Potenza GIII tires which I purchase to replace the Toyo Proxes RA1 on my front.

The tires are breaking well. When my trusted dealer told me so, I said, "you are kidding. That long?"

This is more than 2-3months now.

But! He was correct. All my other tires told just 2-3 days of aggressive driving to get them in line.

But I must report, the wet handling has improve a great deal. I am very proud of them and can only wonder how the S03 PP and the RE01 would behave since the GIII is slightly below the S03. The GIII is more a High Performance/MAX??? tire. Just missing Silica implants.

The dry handling has also increase by a good bit. My brakes have a hard time holding. Have to press them hard to stop.

I would advice anyone to get the S03 if you can. Very great tires.

I think this might be the largest topic in the history of 6gc

and most of it seems to be west talking to himself >>

It really looks so.

He is one mad dude. >>

Yesterday, I spend the hold day researching rotors and brake pads and brake fluid for my upcoming project for the Toyota Corolla GT.

I decided to change from a celica to a Corolla GT.

Either way, you might find this info very interesting.

Sometime back, I was on Tirerack.com and I had printed off some brake pad info.

I wanted the same stopping power my stock subaru has, which does not have ABS.

Currently, the 2 brake pads that I am looking at are the Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads, EBC Greenstuff Disc Brake Pads OR EBC Redstuff Disc Brake Pads.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/hawk/index.jsp
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ebc/index.jsp http://www.ebcbrakes.com/

I would choose Hawk first due to its background and possibly if high friction coefficient of over 0.45 microns. But I could not find any detail info on that number, except for some info stated that hawk goes right up to 0.68microns.

I also decided to look at EBC Rotors. The stats on them looks good and there are also use in race clubs which helps me to keep cost down until I can get a big brake kit later on.

The brake fluid research was kind of surprising. I did not know that thee had Dot 5 and DOT 5.1 and I now fully understand Dry and Wet Temp for brake fluid.

If you are looking to race or have some club even and you realise that you have some brake problems, try some good brake fluid that have a dry temp over 500 degrees celcius.

This link below will help you in your quest for knownledge.
http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid_faq.shtml
http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid.shtml

While you are there, please take a look at Redline WaterWetter that is use in racing cooling systems. mix this with some distill water and you are good to go with a better cooling system for racing use.
http://www.raceshopper.com/other_fluids.shtml

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 9, 2003 - 7:00 PM

Let me through this out here: I've been thinking of findind an old 88-90 MR-2 with a 4agze. I want to do this to get the engine at LOW cost. I was thinking of re-building the engine with forged pistons and a JUN crankshaft. I would re-build the head, but I don't really see much of a need for major upgrades to it other than adjustable cam gears.

I plan to turbo it. I'd like to get the engine bullit proof if you get my drift. You once said it'd be better to build a 20v for a turbo application, but I would think a built early model 4agze would work just as well, and cost FAR less, especially if built properly.

Also, I've been reading up on assorted turbos, and was wondering if you guys could go over differences in turbo size, compressor size, etc. What is ideal for our smaller toyota engines? Also, I've seen many CT-26 turbos floating around, and was wondering where I would look for a re-build kit to make them worth while. Thanks
Jon

I would never say buillding a 20v is better.

The 20v block is strong, but not as strong as the 4agze block.

The 20v is a nice project and have made it up to the 600hp mark with alot of money.

What I must say is that the head is a better head than the 4agze head.

Ok. enough with that.

Good choice on turboing it.

I must tell you that with a jun crank and piston, its a waste of time to leave everything stock.

Go for a head and port job, vavle train and cams, just to name a few. Also, new throttle bodies and a custom built surge tank for high boost.

Turbos are very easy to diced on.

I would advice a rebore to 1.8 specs and then look for a nice 2l turbo since you will be running upto 30psi of boost and power..

Depending on your aim of hp, a nice HKS (or garret) GT2835 or GT3037S would do.

Turbomagazine and Modified Mag have very well topics on turbos and how to calculate for one and use the turbo mapping graphs to decide on a specify turbo.

Get them and you will be good.

The CT26 is good, but forget about them and go with a Garret or HKS one.

There is so much to do, create a topic one it and we can discuss it there.

Just decide what you want, money to spend, and what you are willing to give up.

I will be getting a MSD Digital 7 Plus w/ HVC II.

The MDS Digital 6 I had failed and I returned it for the MSD Digital 7.

I will be testing this (unfortunately on Nology wires) when it arrives next week and I will let everyone knows what different it makes on a semi stock car.

Setup:
1986 Subaru EA82
2" pipe to a Magnaflow Muffler
Nology Wires
Racing Plugs
Well tune Engine
Timing @ 16 degrees

Not much as you can see, but the car has a carb. so I will not be expecting much gains until I get a 4age 20V black top early next year.

Stay tune >>

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 7, 2003 - 7:15 AM

Well, I tested the MSD Digital 7 Plus for 2 days w/ the HVC II.

I must say that the behaviour of the car was like having a small turbo transitioning into a big turbo slowly.

As expected, the subaru sounded different. The Exhaust note, already low and deep, dropped even lower. I had to add a little more fuel to prevent from going lean.

Driving was an experience all over a gain. Torque was there off the line and keeps on going to the 7000rpm rev limit. Just cruising and need that extra, it was always there.

Now please note here. I had a low resistance solid core wire going from the big massive coil to the distributor cap. That wire after a while, started to get a little hot. I felt no increase in heat on the Nology cables. I would advice any one when there use this device to pick up some MSD wire.

The MSD Digital 7 was made for drag racing, but my continuous driving on it showed no increase temperature like the msd digital 6. The HVC II coil temperature was warm, but did not continue to rise. With the advice from MSD, I can use this configuration on the street. Also, if you were playing close attention to the japs, there run this same configurations in their street cars.

I firmly believe that if a fuel injected car was to use this box with all the mods stated at the beginning of this long continuous thread, you will gain tremendous hp and torque.

Good luck

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 20, 2003 - 10:06 AM

holy s#%$ your a madman. I never meet anyone with such knowledge its incredible.

You can be like me.

Would you believe me that 2 years ago, I just barely knew about cars?

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 27, 2003 - 4:03 PM

Today, I added an additional 4ft of 2.25" piping from my last install up to the 2.5" inlet Magnaflow muffler.

The once Loud Pulsating Subaru is now tame and very quiet. The Rev are now revving throughout all the way down to 7000+rpms.

I still have the low end, but tremendous top end.

The once loud noise, have been calm now to a deep growl, but not as deep with the magnaflow resonator in. If it was, the deepness would be unbearable. I spent $80Us dollars to get the job done.

I still have the great tremendous air pressure coming from a 4inch 1ft.25” in length (tip) from the exhaust.

Hi Everyone!

It has been some time that I have not contribute to the knowledge database!

The Kakimoto Exhaust systems are very good systems and offers alot of hp & torque, compare to the other brand name models like HKS, greddy and so forth. As usual, Kakimoto Racing takes part in racing, so their products are extensively tested for performance, just like HKS, Cusco and others.

These exhaust are very expensive, but the gains are tremendous. Last review was done on a Subaru WRX (I think Turbo Magazine, too lazy to look thorugh all of my magazines) and the specs produce makes you wonder if the HKS Titanium could beat the Kakimoto Exhaust systems.

To visit their site, please go to http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp

http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp/01-01-01_n1.html

To translate this site, use http://babelfish.altavista.com/

Man this info is incredible. Good work there !

I got a question tough. I got a 3SGE engine that is about 175 hp stock (thats what is listed here in the netherlands, but i believe the engine should be 170 hp). What is the best (and cheapest) way to gain a bit more power without turbo charging it ? My goal is about 200 hp, and i want a faster 0-60 time. Stock its 8 seconds, and i want about 7 seconds. Got any tips on this one ?

Also, if i would have alot of money, cant i just replace all the parts of my 3SGE engine with parts of the GT4 3SGTE (3rd gen) engine ?? Is this possible or do i need major adjustments to do this ?

My whole thread has everything you want.

I will start a new thread with what you want and I will answer from there. I like to keep this thread short as possible.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=7290

This post has been edited by west_minist: Nov 10, 2003 - 8:11 PM

-Charlie97L+Jan 19, 2003 - 10:01 AM