update: 01/02/2010

Code 12

Distributor recently changed

Car died while coming to a spot at a friend's house. Took 3 cranks to get it running. Then died while coming to a stop sign 25ft from my friends house. Then in front of my house. This time tried cranking but no go. Got it kick started and let idle for 5mins. Then tried to rev the engine a bit in the engine bay, car didnt rev and died. Car was pushed into the garage and didnt start for 5mins. Tried 5 times cranking the ish and the 5th time it started with a low 400rpm idle for about 30secs and then went back to normal. I let the car run for about 3 mins while waiting for Herosblade to drive down and revved the car high, low, and medium rpm range. This time the car didnt shut off.

thoughts??

**problem came back, but i have new experiences

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 17, 2010 - 5:24 PM

scanned code 21, 43

oil is watery

exhaust smells sweet.

looks like head gasket

Oh boy not good. Yeah Luka that sounds about right. Jon you need to replace that as soon as you can so you can get the car up and running again. Try saving up some cash though as you will be roughly spending anywhere from $100 to $300 depending on what you are going to do during the fix. My suggestion is to find a MLS headgasket for the 5SFE so that you will have the assurance of a better headgasket in the long run then the junk oem composite headgasket. Also, you will need to buy new headbolts since you can't re-use the old ones (torque-to-yield bolts). And send the head to a machine shop to get it rebuilt/cleaned up. Doing this will probably set you around $160 for the rebuilt head with new valve seals. Maybe even cheaper since it all depends on what the machine shop charges. And during the time that the head is gone, you can replace the old t-belt, waterpump, and any other seals that you may want to replace. Also, clean up the block deck surface of all the old head gasket material, but make sure to cover up any holes and water jackets around the cylinders as you don't want debris going into them. Let me know if you need help with the problem. Shoots.

As long as the head isn't warped you don't necessarily need to send it to a machine shop.
It all depends on the condition of the head.

You do want to replace the head bolts though.

>

IIRC the 98 has a metal HG stock....

And composite HG work very well for the most part.
Metal HG are more prone to leakage [not blown, just not sealing correctly] if the surface isn't perfectly smooth.
Composite HG are more forgiving, and tend to seal better on uneven surfaces.
They last plenty long enough, as long as the engine is close to stock.

Sorry Nolan and Mike

The car went clank, boom!! on the way home.

3 cylinder celica FTL. Alas to Kahuku killed my car

No way. Don't feel bad cause it also happened when I had the 7afe, only thing I wasn't home to witness what happened So, are you going to go through with the 3sgte swap then or going to find a low mileage 5sfe in the meantime? Just work with what can fit your budget IMO.

This post has been edited by netrata: May 4, 2009 - 9:25 PM

oh noes ! :haironfire:

My moms co-worker's husband said he could save my engine.

Head gasket kit $160 his labor $600 Sending the Head to get redone between $500-$700 total = $1500

Dad said why not. I say NO! that's almost a 2nd gen 3s swap.

what you guys think.

>

yeah mike it got worse

>

yeah budget is everything. thank god for knowing the right people.

**edit** car runs...................Hawaiian style Nolan, Emarc, Mike, Luke, you will never believe how i did it


posted up an edit in the first post.

This post has been edited by 808celica: May 8, 2009 - 3:47 AM

didnt want to make a new thread. so i retitled mines ( still have same problem) and now with a new problem.

headgasket.
dont get a metal gasket, your block and head are not properly surfaced to accept the metal gasket.

does the rotor have 2 screws in it? or wait, does the federal have the clip on style? if so you can pry at it some with 2 flat head screwdrivers

you just pull the rotor out. it's gonna be tight though if it's corroded.

new cap and rotor part numbers for ya

thanks guys. i just couldnt think straight yesterday

luckily my dad is the ish when it comes to macgyvering things

I thought macgyvering things was my job lol...

but I was stuck at work.

tell me again how you fixed it? I was alittle distracted with work stuff...

Going from troubleshooting turbine engines to car engines and back and forth is not a good idea lol

fixed the smoke thing??? car doesnt run again ATM >:(

got shocked trying to figure out what was wrong at alas.
that's then i knew i had juice to spin the starter. you can smell gas. but i guess im not getting enough spark. so imma change the cap and rotor (they look kinda bad) today.

....................soo mike


when you buy your clip let me know i'll buy one too. i can take out a good amount from the bank

soo.........

new rotor and cap. still no go.

bridged the FP and B+ on the diagnosis box and i can hear my fuel pump. I can smell gas too



This post has been edited by 808celica: May 8, 2009 - 9:56 PM

Mr. Prez-- altho mine wasn't smoking, it was bucking like a wild horse when it did start.. A member suggested a tune-up-- cap,,wires,,rotor & plugs. No worries since.. Dumb of me to ask but how the plugs? IDK bro-- blown gasket won't be fixed with this.. TURBO??

This post has been edited by Bigblock: May 8, 2009 - 10:51 PM

damn...i missed alot

plugs and wires are fine did rotor and cap the other day. cousin had some things to take care of so i didnt get the compression test done, which is cool, ummm trying to tell my dad that the engine isnt salvagable (right spelling?? im sick cant think) and finding another one will only be more than halfway to the 3s swap.

Match220 said he could swap it for free mad thanks to the guy. as payment he'll just take what he needs from the clip that i dont use.

nice. that's a good deal that match220 will hook u up. BTW, did he ever finish the 6 gen. vert he had?

i doubt it that thing has been waiting to go in for hmmmm 5 years now???

New problem. Posted in 1st post

should be able to get the plug from toyota, I got a sensor from toyota although it cost me $80 or so, just ring them.

>
PM tweak, or hit a junkyard.
celicas, or camrys, or rav4's of the same vintage will have the same style plug, although you'll wanna look for one that isnt as dry and brittle as ours become over the years.

>

K. Toyota is gay here though couldnt find a part number or a reference online so i know they'll give me a hard time. Dont feel like spending 2hrs at Toyota again. I only do that when i wanna get a car

>

Manny do you know if a 96 manual celica plug will work??

Are all the years GT manul have the same plug???

this is what's left of the connector, pretty sweet huh?? i didnt even have to fight with this to take it off. I just shook the wiring and *poop* it came out



Wiring and connectors seems to be good


Im guessing the rest of the connector is in there??


Just Curious is this important??? Didnt notice this until just right now




I guess this is one of the flaws living in Hawaii Corrosive environment

Not sure I have to check but I know the one in the center controls the temp gauge in your cluster.

lolz the center one does?? hmm im wondering what that one does that's broken??

broken blue thing is bimetal(lic) vacuum switching valve. Mine broke in the same way, iirc it was about $50 for the part.

I dunno what it does, something with temperature/vacuum etc. IDK.


Edit: i didnt really even notice any adverse effects from it being broken. Only time i noticed that it was broken was by seeing the hoses hanging while under the hood one day. I dunno what would happen if you capped it or joined it.

This post has been edited by samir0189: Jun 1, 2009 - 9:40 PM