hmmm car seems to be fine *scratch head* cool thanks man. i'll check BvSV at toyota
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
i just capped mine off its for emissions!
"she can polish my strut bar anytime As long as her blow-off valve's in good order"
really?? hahah thank god hawaii doesnt have emission tests
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
We have no restrictions for anything here....only hard thing to do is bring in JDM parts through customs like headlights and taillights.
94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
lol i have mechanical gauges (don't ask) so i just took out the entire plug and replaced it with the mechanical water temp sensor.
no restrictions in Oregon either
This post has been edited by terbear4god4life: Jun 1, 2009 - 11:47 PM
"she can polish my strut bar anytime As long as her blow-off valve's in good order"
seems like its something we can live without then??
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
K new problem again
edited first post too.
can't get my car into any gear when the car is
on, but when the car is off i can jam it into gear. if i do that there is NO clutch feel. not even lifting off 5mm the car starts to roll.
im thinking i shattered my clutch, but i still can shut off the car, put it in gear, turn on the car, and let off the clutch very little (im talking millimeters), but still cant change gears.
my knowledgable cousin Herosblade tells me im thinking too big and that it could be a pressure problem.
so where do i start???
thanks to my cousin Herosblade for towing my sorry ass home
This post has been edited by 808celica: Jun 21, 2009 - 6:22 AM
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
with the car off, push the clutch in, have someone verify that the slave cylinder is working, and holding pressure, by watching the pushrod extend when you push in the clutch, and hold it to the floor.
(the pushrod should extend, and stay out as long as you hold the pedal down)
if that checks out, the problem lies in the clutch itself.
is it an aftermarket, or stock clutch?
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
stock clutch. the pushrod moves in and out, but when i try to go bleed it the pedal sticks to the floor.
so now im most certain its the slave then?!?! or would it still be a guessing game between master and slave?
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
k bled the whole system. new fluid in. still no go
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
all these problems that I never hear about lol...
i'm still waiting on a good clip to show up.
still troubleshooting my egr recirc...but been making progress.
>
QUOTE (luka @ Jun 21, 2009 - 10:13 PM)
>all these problems that I never hear about lol...
i'm still waiting on a good clip to show up.
still troubleshooting my egr recirc...but been making progress.
homie
yeah all this stuff is fairly new to me. dont wanna prolong my axles too
well do drive out my house everyday knowing im beating my car
so its expected
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
Slave and master changed! No go! input anyone?
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
new problem. i cant get into 2nd gear. when going from 1st to 2nd above 20mph or 4k rpms i cant get into 2nd. it doesnt grind, car doesnt jerk when i let go of the clutch. same as going from 3rd to 2nd when slowing down for a light.
tried rev matching, no go. how ever if i go under 15mph or under 3k rpms i can get into 2nd if im lucky. stick goes into 2nd gear position but doesnt lock in. i get the feeling like its not entering the gate.
new clutch, working reman master and slave, new flywheel,, and everything installed properly.
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
i heard too much fluid in trans can cause this, shifter cables broken/worn, shifter bushings gone, and driver error.
dunno about driver error cuz Herosblade test drove my car and it happened to him also.
when the car is at a complete stop like at a light i can play around and have the "enter the gate" feeling in 2nd and all gears.
just put in new fresh Royal Purple Synchromesh equivalent to the Pennzoil oil. it only happens in 2nd and sometimes 4th but rarely.
could it be that the bushings on the quick shift be gone??
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
My dad put RP in his gearbox of his old truck, and after that he was unable to get 2nd geAr too. I also recently read in a 4x4 magazine that some guy put RP in his Tacoma tranny and couldn't get 2nd or 3rd.
◊◊◊My F/S Thread!◊◊◊QUOTE(14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out.QUOTEFerdi says (11:29)No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings.
how much fluid are you putting in?
it takes ~2.7qts.
doubt its the quickshifter, ive had mine since 03 without issue.
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
This honestly sounds very much like what happened with my car when my clutch went out last year. I started w/the slave, then master, bled the hell out of it... no go. Did just fine going through the gears w/the car off, but once the car was running I couldn't get it into second either.
Over 2 or 3 days it got progressively worse to the point where I couldn't even start the car. Then I heard a big chunky metal sound and decided it was time to tow it out to the shop after dropping the tranny I discovered a big chunk of one of the springs was jammed into some other random part of the clutch plate. Cheap ass POS Chinese junk! Replaced it w/Exedy OEM kit and some Penzoil Syncromesh and it's felt like a new car ever since.
Not that I've ever owned a new car. But you get the point.
>
QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 8, 2009 - 2:38 AM)
>how much fluid are you putting in?
it takes ~2.7qts.
doubt its the quickshifter, ive had mine since 03 without issue.
kk i'll just let the trans drain out of the fill hole until it doesnt
>
QUOTE (GriffGirl @ Jul 8, 2009 - 6:19 AM)
>This honestly sounds very much like what happened with my car when my clutch went out last year. I started w/the slave, then master, bled the hell out of it... no go. Did just fine going through the gears w/the car off, but once the car was running I couldn't get it into second either.
Over 2 or 3 days it got progressively worse to the point where I couldn't even start the car. Then I heard a big chunky metal sound and decided it was time to tow it out to the shop after dropping the tranny I discovered a big chunk of one of the springs was jammed into some other random part of the clutch plate. Cheap ass POS Chinese junk! Replaced it w/Exedy OEM kit and some Penzoil Syncromesh and it's felt like a new car ever since.
Not that I've ever owned a new car. But you get the point.
right right. well new everything but the trans. i do what you guys said in chat when i get enough $$
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
interesting.. im going to check this one out.. thanks a lot
yeah sure. played with a couple things and im most certain that my shifter cable is just plain old and wait on its way going out. I now have no bottom gears, however when having someone hold the stick in any of the bottom gears and simply touching the gear selector the stick gives that feeling of it actually entering the "shift gate" once i get my cables and install i will come back here and post teh results.
wish me luck
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
Yay!! First problem for the damn New Year............
not liking it too
updated the first post with the best description i could.
Used the E1 and TE1 paper clip trick and got 1 flash, pause, then 2 flashes.
Celica_STCali responsed to my text (thanks man
) and replied Code 12.
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
double check the connections at the dist, could be a loose wire.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
*ahem* its CelicaST_cali...haha glad i could help
BANNED. for life, you moron.
>
QUOTE (Bitter @ Jan 3, 2010 - 8:10 AM)
>double check the connections at the dist, could be a loose wire.
everything seems good except that the connections dont snap in and lock!?!?!
using the CEL sticky link imma check the resistance between each terminal, mainly G and NE.
I really dont wanna buy another distrib cuz this one is pretty damn new, but if it is the problem then i guess im getting the $450 distrib directly from Toyota
and i hope i dont have to replace my ecm.
**donkey balls!!!! i guess im heading to the junkyard. hope there's another celica i can rape parts from. there goes my $$ for jdm tails once again
This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 3, 2010 - 5:58 PM
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
well they should click into place and hold from being pulled out. i would verify that the pins in the terminal are not spread and not making contact with the pins on the dist.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
>
QUOTE (Bitter @ Jan 3, 2010 - 1:06 PM)
>well they should click into place and hold from being pulled out. i would verify that the pins in the terminal are not spread and not making contact with the pins on the dist.
i'll go check that thanks. wells im off to go visit Herosblade at Checker's
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
Read this thread your having the same problem I was having awhile back, it was my new distributer that was faulty not sending signal to the ecu causing my car to stall and not start. You have the same cel codes I had too. The top connector on the distributor is the culprit for the 1-2 code test that first.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...330&hl=remy
"To Protect And To Serve The Wealthy" -POLICE
>
QUOTE (Remy @ Jan 3, 2010 - 1:47 PM)
>Read this thread your having the same problem I was having awhile back, it was my new distributer that was faulty not sending signal to the ecu causing my car to stall and not start. You have the same cel codes I had too. The top connector on the distributor is the culprit for the 1-2 code test that first.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...330&hl=remyfunny thing is too i posted in there. my problem was the distrib, the coil imploded. so that was replaced with a Napa brand (sadly yes cuz Toy is just too damn expensive). I used a multimeter to check the ohms, the distrib prongs checked out fine according to the multimeter. The old distrib is gone because of the core exchange with Napa.
I did find that the connector is missing the damn locking clip, so the connector just snugs in. only thing with that is i tried moving the connector with the car on and running. I bounced the car and what not trying to see if the connector comes loose. Connector doesnt move but thats only 5mins of moving, not the continuous movement of actually driving the car. I will source out a new distrib connector, if i cant find one im buying from the Doc's site. I really hope my ecu isnt shorting.
Car starts and runs idle fine now, I guess im using it to work for the rest of the month and see if it happens again. So as the car stands the problem isnt solved fully.
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
use a ziptie to hold it into place, see if the problem still exists.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
