Details will follow later, hopeful;ly later today. I still need to work some more on the car but not the brakes, I have an issue with my driver side control arm that needs to be fixed, but brake-wise I'm done.




quick teaser

15 mm spacers was needed to clear MY wheels
calipers HAVE to be grind off and spacer was used to push the rotor OUT 3 mm in order to clear ball joint.
Rotor is based on a Cadillac Catera 2001
and I used Stanless steel brake lines and were just perfect, not too long and not short at all


I'll go over the whole thing later.


BTW, I did install the rotors backwards I was tired and overlooked that, but I'll fix that sometime during the week.

This post has been edited by Culpable04: Jan 4, 2010 - 12:46 PM

Good job dude, glad to see it all came together and working for you

great install!
make a write up!

nice work on this, will wait for the writing part

Question, has anybody tried fitting 7 gen calipers and rotors, is it all different? we could possibly install the trd brake kit

7th gen brake kit is a bolt on afair, I had those install before this upgrade, I'll have those (7th gen calipers ) for sale soon

how is the 7th gen caliper with the weight of the 6th gen?

sweet.

dont know if youve read this or not?
http://www.celicagt.nl/Tuning/Brakes/remklauwen.html

nice stevenson!

>


If i didn't get that wrong, for him it was a little easier to upgrade because he had super strut suspension so he ended up swaping knuckles ?

sorry guys, being cauhg up at work

hopefully today at lunch time I'll write some of the do's and don'ts with this set-up and and rant about MY particular issue at hte moment that is affecting my brakes, but it's cause by something else that is defective on my car

>


so it bolts on? so why not get the trd kit?

>


TRD kit goes for over US$1400.00
I spent a total of 600 on this ( not counting hte research parts that became paperweight )

now that the hard part is over, you guys should be able to put this together for under 800 shoping wisely.

and dont forget this calipers say CELICA on them so it adds to the HP list.

>


LOL,

thats true.

culp, hope my rotors come soon i need that extra 12 hp

Very nice culp, i assume the spacers you received worked pretty well? Hoping to get mine soon for the review

>

Yeah I think thats what happen. would be a whole lot easier with the same suspension.
I thought I had it all figure out (well most of it anyway) with these but Im confused again... ok where do these calipers actually sit on the front or back of the rotor? (I hope I've worded that right)

the caliper needs to sit on the back of the knuckle

you will need to grind of the caliper 3 mm, to make the center line be a litte bit away from the bvall joint,

if you decide to go with Cadillac Catera disk, you'll need to use a 3 mm spacers on te hub to push the disk out and be in line wiht the center line of the calipers, basically that's it

you'll need brake pads spacers, I used the old pads with all the brakes component sanded off. the brake pad spacer needs to be 2 mm thick and goes on eahc side, this is because the cadillac disk is 28 mm thick, and the ST205's are 32 mm thick.

after that you'll need to see if you need wheel spacers to fit your wheels.

when bolting the calipers to the knuckle ( see my previous post for instructuion on thread tapping the knuckle ) use loc-tite to make sure the bolts don't coem lose, for some reason mines were coming lose after a few 10's miles of driving, I bought soem thread lock ( loc tite ) and problem is gone.


let me know if you need more details.

I've been really busy, and don't know when I'll get around to do a proper how to. for this. but there are a few ways of doing it, and there are a few options when comes to rotors, it's all a matter of choosing what will best suit your needs / pockets / and set-up

a little better pictures, I swapped the rotors, and resprayed the calipers

that looks SWEETTTT stevenson!

I finally got some time to take a few pictures for you guys

the very first step is to grind 3 mm off the caliper bracket ( no pic of this )

then thread tap the knuckles ( refer to my previous post for full details on this )

then install extended studs ( if wheel spacer is needed to clear your wheels )

then slide the 3 mm spacer in place



then slide the rotor in place and wheel spacer if applicable



then bolt your caliper in place



besdies the pictures, you'll need extended brake lines, try to get some SS lines at this point.


also I wanna clarify a few things.

the celica non GT4 can take any size of rotor not just 300, the issue of hitting the ball joint will come only if you have a disc that goes to far IN. as long as the offset os right you can go with ANY size of disc you desire.

also I said before 297 mm disc would not be big enough to clear the pads, but that's wrong, after further inspectiong we realized I was doing all the testing on a 5th gen knuckle, the 6th gen is slightly bigger, this almost unnoticeable difference makes 6th gens knucles fit PERFECT with 297 mm disc.

also make sure you have a good alignment, the clearance left between disc / ball joint is the bare minimum needed to avoid contact, if you are experiencing negative camber, you are at risk of hitting your ball joint, my aligment is set at 0 degrees and no issues, I'll go back to have a little camber on them for better handling, but I wanted to make sure at 0 degrees there were no issues.

also this brake set-up will fit with 16 inches wheels, but, the clearance is VERY tight, so tight that your balancing weights may need to be re- position at the very edge of the wheels to avoid the caliper to knock them off. I had my wheels balanced and I told about this issue to the tire tech and he was able to balance the wheel and place the weight where they don't come in contact with the caliper.

If you feel I have left something out, let me know.

if there are any question, please post them here, don't pm them to me, as there may bve others wondering the same thing and I could answer to everyone here ONCE instead of replying the same answer a few times.

Hey Culpable04--Can I bring my Celi by for you to mod?
I want true HIDs,custom grill work,BIG A#S breaks,17 inch wheels,........
It's all good---
Some day...

so if I have big enough rims I'd only need 2x 3mm spacers 1 for each front right?

how close are we talking for the ball joint??

GT4 brakes easier to get into SS-III than SS-II because of superslut? I read somewhere st205 superstrut is just as different to st202 superstrut as it is to st202/st204 macpherson , I could believe that too.

Rusty,
not Big enough wheels but the correct offset, with my wheel design now I have a 27 off set ( 42 - 15 mm spacer ) this will vary depending on the spoke design on your wheel, but yes, as long as your wheels can clear the calipers without spacers, all you'll need is the 3 mm spacer for the rotors.



delusionz
It is my understanding that if you have a SS III with superstrut suspension, all you need is to swapp the front knuckles to make the brake set-uip a copmplete bolt on. the knuckles are slightly different to accomodate for the different brake set-ups. so swap them and you will be golden.

>



27 offset, aint that pushing it more out than the 45 offset?

cuz i have 45, and if 27 did not clear it, doubt 45 will.

27 mm is the resulting offset

42 is the offset of my wheels, then you add the spacers ( in my case 15 mm )

the spacer size is substracted from the wheel offset so we have

42 - 15 = 27

and yes, as you add the spacer it pushes the wheels out, thus clearing hte calipers and being more flushed witth the body ( or sticking out if you go too far )

This post has been edited by Culpable04: Sep 30, 2009 - 10:55 AM

so can this be done to a uk spec gt st202 with no ss suspension?

Yes

>

The thing that is puzzling me is that ST202 SS-II and SS-III have Identical brakes, One being MacPherson and the other being Superstrut, They both need the 2pot stopping power because they both have 3S-GE engines.

So I don't see how ST202 superstrut should make GT4 brake fitment any easier than any SS-I, SS-II, USDM GT or UK GT being they all share the same macpherson suspension, or do they?

The only advantage I can see with the SS-III is that they have identical OEM alloy wheels to the GT4 therefore the correct clearance is already there

SS-III with superstrut has a different knuckle than the gt4 to acomodate the 2 piston brakes, if you use a gt4 knuckle, then the gt4 brakes will bolt on, as all your front suspension will be now identical to gt4.

Again, the only diference between the 4 and ss-iii is the knucle. Swapped the knuckle and bolt the brakes on