Oh cause I got the two's r us endlinks and didn't notice much of a difference

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That's not solid metal, that's a spherical bearing -- at least, it certainly appears to be the same as the fifth-gen arm. I'm quite surprised that there's been no binding issues due to replacing those bearings with bushings, but it's good news if there's no downsides. It's a hell of a lot cheaper that having to replace the entire arm or use a bearing in those four suspension arms.

I'm all set with dropping my gas tank to do the rear sway bar. I think these things are so much better, not from personal experience with both but just feeling the difference the front and rear bushings made. From what I've heard/been told about sway bars they are great but make the ride very harsh. These bushings on the other hand made my ride quality better along with better handling. Its the best of both worlds which is hard to find when it comes to things for cars.

This post has been edited by hurley97: May 31, 2011 - 5:28 PM

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Interesting that you say the bushings made the ride quality better, kind makes me want to do it as in theory you'd think poly urethane would be worse as its hard.

Sway bars don't change the ride quality, they control roll but they would change it a bit although I never noticed it.

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drop that gas tank!

thats not true the sway bars are a great improvement especially if your someone who likes to take every corner like its their last. They will not make your rider more harsh, coilovers on the other hand will.

my coilovers are completely adjustable (32 ride adjustment settings), my ride comfort is just fine (I have the front bushings not the rear). I've driven and rode in defgeph's car with ST bars and Tien springs (stock bushings), harshest ride I have ever had.

I just pm'd redrkt1. hopefully these are still available, as the link on page 1 didn't work well as it's a year and a half old.

*crossing fingers*

http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-...spension-bushes

ah ha! how do the prices compare?

basically same price, I think he had some kind of 6gc discount, but not sure what percent, so I ordered mines from that site.
got them around 2 weeks later which considering they are coming from Poland is not bad at all.

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awesome.

the site said to contact about worldwide shipping, u remember how much that ran?

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Got an email back, for those interested in group buy.

About discounts for more sets:
- 5 sets 15% discount [shiping 79eur]
- 10 sets 20% discount [shipping 99eur]

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get that group buy rolling

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I didn't want to wait, so I got mine.

Alright so I found out that I need to replace my Front control arm bushings, so If anyone is interested in a group buy, I'd be interested as well, but I need them asap.

I'd be interested in a group buy for both sets.

Sorry couldnt wait and placed an order yesturday.
I' just wondering how difficult is it to replace these with basic tools, and jackstands in a garage?
Is it something very difficult?
I have a bench mounted vice, but if that doesn't work I have no problem taking it to a shop to get them pressed in.
I just want to make sure its something that can be done by myself, beacuse I looked at a manual and it looks like quite a bit of work just to remove the control arm.

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The fronts are very easy to take apart and install back on, you can do it with basic tools in your garage with some jackstands and a vice.. the rears are a lot harder from what I hear.

If this gets rolling i'd be in for a group buy. ST204 front kit and ST205 rear kit.


Someone would have to PM me though as I probably wont check this thread often.

Has anyone had problems putting the control arm back in?
When I go to tighten the bolt that goes parallel to th ground towards the back of the car, it threads in about 3/4 of the way and then just continues to spin, but not easy enough that you can do it by hand.
I don't think these are stripped though because it does it on both side and when I was removing that bolt it took a real long time to get out as well. It took a couple minutes of turning the bolt for it to come out.
Is this normal? Or is my subframe stripped?

Anyone?

The ones I've done they all just went right back in just as they came out.

Great haha.
Does that mean the my subframe is stripped?
The bolt appears to be fine.

anyone tried replacing the front SS bushes...i guess there are 2 of them...

my ST205 swap feels damn spongy at hight speeds and corners

Has anyone had issues with these wearing out fairly quickly?
I installed min July 2011 (by the looks of of it, from my posts in this thread) and last night discovered that on the driver side wheel, the bushing towards the back of the car has quite a bit of play, and is causing a huge clunking noise. You can actually see the wheel move forward and back within the wheel well while accelerating and stopping, and I can recreate the sound/movement by simply shaking the wheel front to back with my hands, with the cars weight on the wheels. And I'm pretty frustrated that these are worn already.

When I replaced them, I torched out the existing bushing (leaving the ring inside the arm) and brought it to a mechanic to press in the new bushing. I'm not sure if the ring was left in the arm, or taken out, but from the looks of it, everyone that's done these bushings have taken the ring out. I also did NOT use the OEM crush tube within the bushing as Tigawoods did, but it seems no one else did either. Could either of these two things cause extra movement in the arm or per-mature wear? Or were the bushings just installed wrong? Right now it seems the rear bushing is the only one moving, but I've yet to put the car in the air and inspect closer.

I did a quick visual inspection, and the bushing appears to be intact, and not cracked or torn, so I'm a little confused as to why this would be causing noise after about 3.5-4 summers of regular driving and no track use. Any insight would be great, as I'd like to avoid replacing these bushings again. And if they do need replacing already, I will probably be going back to OEM which, IIRC, cost about 500 CDN, and not something I'd really like to do either.

If you can move the arm/bushing then the bolt isn't tight enough.

We've had bushings in our Celicas for years without issue.

Where is it hitting exactly ?
Is the hole (for the long 19mm head bolt) elongated ? Does it tighten enough to keep the arm in place ?

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Its the bolt towards the back of the car, that goes vertically, perpendicular to the ground.
It seems almost as if there is play between the inner sleeve of the bushing and the bolt that goes through there (hopefully that makes sense), allowing the arm to move forward and back slightly.
I haven't had a chance to take a closer look to see if the hole is elongated since the problem got worse about a week ago. The car came off the road on Monday, as I didn't want to risk farther damage, but the arm was still where it should be, with the slight forward/backward movement.

Tonight I'm going to tear into it and see what I can find.

Those bushings have never even looked right in my car. Neither set. I'll get pictures when I get home. It's either my limited slip going out or those bushings that have been causing serious front end issues for me for the last few years.

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I've kind of always thought the same thing. They didn't really seem to seat right in the LCA, or the pocket (Rear bushing) where the control arm mounts. But since I had someone else press them in, I thought that's how they should look.
Ill be tearing into my car tonight, hopefully, and Ill get pictures when I do so.

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Aug 12, 2015 - 1:01 PM

Sounds exactly like mine. Like the control arm sits on a downward angle and the bushing sits perfectly straight up and down with the bolt. I started having torque steer and bump steer issues shortly after I installed my first set of bushings. Dustin and Stef found my issue, which was a broken nut inside the subframe which had allowed the horizontal bolt on the passenger side to loosen slightly and let the control arm wiggle around. I cut my subframe open and got the nut and bolt tightened but the problem continued. Dustin thought the bolt had worn the hole in the subframe but everything looked great when I took it apart. Nonetheless, I got a new subframe, control arms, and bushings. My problem continues, exactly the same as before. I still have a popping noise when I first start rolling and it still torque steers. At this point, either my LSD is worn out and causing my issues or I coincidentally got two sets of bushings that ruined my car. I'm leaning towards the diff right now but it's funny that you bring this up because I have a popping noise similar to yours and I don't like the look of the rear bushings at all.

Literally everything else in my front end has been replaced. Motor mounts, steering rack, end links, ball joints, subframe, control arms, bushings, bearings, brakes, axles, everything. The trans/diff have stayed the same so it's either the poly bushings or the diff causing my issues.