>
That sounds like how my bushing sits as well, and as far as I can remember, that's how it looked right from the start. My popping has evolved into the whole arm moving. The rear "branch" of the LCA seems to be the culprit. Because with the car on the ground, e brake on, if I push the front wheel forward and back, I can recreate the "popping" sound, which i can see is the rear "branch" of the LCA moving with in its bracket on the chassis, almost pivoting around the front two bushings of the LCA

And now that I think about it, my car does tend to pull every which way upon acceleration, but I always thought that was caused by having wider wheels, and the ruts in the road pulling the car. Maybe this could be related.

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Aug 12, 2015 - 2:38 PM

I'm working on getting a replacement S54 but now you have me doubting whether that's the issue or whether we are having the same issue.

Sorry man, Ill be sure to keep this thread updated with my findings.

One thing I noticed on other bushings I've put in is the metal sleeve that goes inside the bushing (that the bolt goes through) is sometimes a bit too long.
On my 7 gen I shaved the end of it on my grinding wheel so the sleeve didn't stick out further than the bushing itself.
FYI.

It's actually sitting kind of decent right now but it normally looks a little worse than this.

That's almost exactly how mine looks as well, but I wasn't able to capture it very well.
This is what mine look like with the car on the ground: (Not the greatest shots but this was what I was able to get)



And then once the car is in the air, and wheel off:



So I was fully planning ot be laying under the car all night yesturday, but Batmans comment got me thinking:
>

So the first thing I checked was if the bolt going through the bushing vertically into the chassis was tight enough. Sure enough, it was fairly loose, ~50 Ft Lbs or so. So I tightened it up to around 80 ft. lbs. and dropped the car back down.

Tried shaking the wheel back and fourth with my hands, which caused a pretty hefty clunk/movement in the arm before, and no movement or noise.
So I went for a drive, accelerating pretty hard and stopping pretty hard, and no noise yet. I stopped extremely hard once to try and re create the noise, and there was a small pop, which I think was the LCA re-seating to where it should be, because it only happened once, and hasn't yet happened again after testing.

So I drove the car to work this morning, and it seems to have solved the issue. I'm not completely convinced that this was the only problem, but I'm going to continue driving it for now and hope for the best. I'll keep this thread updated in a week or so if this is the solution, or if the issue comes back.

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Aug 13, 2015 - 8:36 AM

Sorry to bring up and old post, but need clarification. Bringing this thread up, I'm confused, did anyone put the crush tube oem in or use the thicker ones TCB UK make or the one BRD makes sold on BRD or GT4-Play? Can I install without using the crush tube into the metal sleeves of the polyurethane mounts?