You'll start the car, everything is fine, go for a drive, and when you cone to a stop, it idles pretty low and rough. If it dies, just start it back up and it's fine again. At least it was one of your spare tails rather than your $450 headlights lol

I'd imagine its in the IAC system..

I'll check into that as soon as I get my hands on the car. Thanks again, Stephen

I do and don't concurr with the IAC. On our nissan maxima, it only kind of idled like yours is doing for about a day. When it stopped working, it totally stopped working. Total failure. Car wouldn't run without the foot in the gas. It was fun to drive for sure. But it does sound like it could be iac.... i would still get fuel pressure checked first because you've been meaning to do that anyway. 1) fuel pressure 2) idle air control valve

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Oct 20, 2011 - 5:12 PM

Little update, I took the vac line off of the tb that goes to the fuel pressure regulator today, and it made absolutely no difference. Is it possible that the fpr is gummed up and sending too much fuel to the motor at low rpm's, causing it to run rich?

Edit: took off the intake manifold and replaced the FPR and cam angle sensor, and reset the ECU. It ran insanely rich for a minute, hiccuped a few times while it got the air out of the fuel system, then it was business as usual. Still bogging, so that rules out the FPR as a suspect. I meant to have a look at the valve while I had the intake manifold off. Maybe tomorrow. I'm going to replace the knock sensor when I have the intake manifold off, so I don't have to do that from under the car.

For what it's worth, that business I found about different FPR's between the Redtop and Greytop. It's the exact same part number.

This post has been edited by richee3: Oct 29, 2011 - 5:43 PM

Mah BEAMS is naked.



New knock sensor, replaced the coils again, and cleaned a few things up. But that bogging is still there... I'm now pretty certain that the issue doesn't lie in any of the sensors. Makes sense because they've all been replaced. This motor is still running crazy rich. Right now, I still suspect the VVT is trying to advance the timing too early then corrects itself at 3,200 RPM and operates normally after that, or else the ECU is messed up. Keep in mind that Customs did open the box that the ECU came in, so it's possible that they sent the ECU through an X-ray. I know how computers and magnets don't mix, so it's possible that the ECU is messed up without any visible signs. It's a stretch, but it's possible. I just want to get this thing lined out pretty soon. We've got 5,000 miles on the swap now and with it running this rich, I'm going to need to buy a new O2 sensor and cat if I don't get it fixed. Those are expenses I'd rather avoid. So, moving on....

What ever happened with the VVT oil filter?

I also remember talking about coolant temp sensors.....
also
I talked to a buddy of mine who is big into the honda scene and those guys have obviously been in the v-tec scene for years. (I already talked to dan about this, but for those of us who aren't dan, I'll reiterate) He said that when they don't have a sensor plugged in like they forgot it after working on the car, or one is bad etc., the car will rev to a point and then the ecu will go into loop mode and the thing will just stop revving. It'll hit a line and not want to go past it. As I explained to him this scenario, he told me that's what happens with their cars. So... in thinking of that. What could cause the ecu to go into loop mode if it isn't one of the aforementioned sensors? We should probably explore all options here before just diving to the ole' failsafe "it's the ecu" In all seriousness, how often has it really been the ecu? That and dan has a parts motor, so many different things are possible here sensor/mechanical system wise.

edit: Dan, (you may have already) post the problem in engine and maintanence thread for those guys who don't make it to the project thread/aren't subscribed here? Even experience with a v-tec or a 1zz would prolly be helpful.

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Oct 31, 2011 - 10:45 AM

It's still possible that the VVT oil filter is clogged, but if it was, then my VVT wouldn't work at 4,500 rpm. It's not like it would advance the timing when it shouldn't then function normally. I'm starting to suspect more and more that the problem is electrical. And if it isn't the ECU, then I can turn around and sell the one I'm about to buy and get my money back.

Trace, I've considered posting it up there and moreso on newcelica.org, but those guys always scream "AFM" and refuse to acknowledge other faults. Thank you, Google.

This post has been edited by richee3: Oct 31, 2011 - 11:09 AM

easy, come down here one weekend lets plug your ecu in my car and drive it around, and vice versa...

We could probably do that. Brigette and I are planning a Nashville trip soon and I've always wanted to check your car out in person.

let me know in advance, cuz, i work weekends...

Thought I found something today. I was moving the plug for the auto tranny plug, I noticed that moving the plug affected the car's idle. I even got a video for Trace, though the video couldn't fully capture how the harness could affect the idle. Pull the harness, idle up ~100-200 rpm. So I started tearing the loom off of that harness and a couple of other harnesses and all I found was a shoddy crimp on a wire that gives power to the interior of the car. There was also another cut in the wire, a couple of inches away, but it was properly soldered and wrapped in heat shrink. Fixed that, no other problems found, and I can't get the harness to affect the idle anymore.

Notice the crimp and the wire above it in the picture. It fell apart immediately when I took the loom off.


The other cut, soldered properly.


So, since none of that made a difference, I went ahead and wired up the sidemarkers in the new projectors.

Nice job on the projectors Richee, now just get some jdm fenders or side marker and delete the usdms and ull be all set.

>
Right? Don't tell Brigette but that might be happening pretty soon.

Brigette, if you read this, pretend like you didn't. And forget that you ever heard anything about JDM sidemarkers. And don't Google them either.

how about tracing that loom a little bit more. it may lead to a problem, might it be a broken wire. i would take the harness out, and check every wire, unloom it, clean it and re-loom it. that's what i did, and found no broker wires.

I'm tempted to. I hate the thought of it but I've only checked certain sections of wiring. I've just still got my hopes up that it will be something easy. By the time I take the loom off, I'll probably extend the harness to use the factory hole in the firewall. I hate the thought of the time involved but it might still come to that.

i think you could do it in a saturday... think about that wire resistance for cts temp.... if its even bent in half, the resistance will go up... and that IS what the cts operates off of. i think with how exposed these wiring harnesses are... through transport, and getting flung around, and then getting man handled during install....... We've talked about it Dan, at this point your time on saturday is worth the ammount of money you've already throw at it.... just my .02

That reminds me...



You can see my single CTS with 3 wires there.

Edit: for what it's worth, the harness I had sitting over the coolant hose in that picture is the harness I was pulling on to affect the idle this afternoon. It's just for the auto tranny so I doubt if any of those wires directly affect the idle. But the O2 sensor wiring, starter wire, and a couple of other things.

This post has been edited by richee3: Nov 5, 2011 - 10:44 PM

have you looked at that wiring? From the pic it looks like it makes a hard bend... and that the bend look spretty permanent. For all the more it's wrapped up, you could cut that crap off and re-tape with electrical tape it up if it's not damaged. But if that wiring ever got bent or crimped, increased resistance, smaller wire. As we've talked about (for those guys who didn't hear that convo) lol smaller wire means increased resistance. Same reason why we upgrade starter wire and battery wire. But you already knew that haha

>

I don't have to google them this time. I know you don't like the sidemarkers that close to the front.
"it makes the look of the car flow better when they are behind the wheel like the jdm ones"
I listen sometimes.....

>

how'd u do the wiring for the jdms?

>

I am curious of the sidemarker wiring as well. Havn't done mine yet, being you have, would save me some research!

>
Yeah.... sometimes. I think you write down every word I say so you can quote me at a very inconvenient time later or otherwise floor the BEAMS at 3k RPM because I told you not to! I know how you women-folk operate....


>
The headlights or the sidemarkers?


Rave- It's pretty easy. I hate the look of the sidemarkers on the front fenders and my projectors came with pigtails for the sidemarkers. I simply cut the plugs off of my USDM fender sidmarkers and soldered the pigtails of the projector side markers to the USDM wiring. Illinois doesn't do inspections so I don't have to have sidemarkers. Since I'm not running too many bulbs on the same wire, there's no risk of popping any fuses or burning the wiring up. I replaced two bulbs with two bulbs and extended the wiring by about 8 inches. It was very lucky for me that my pigtails happened to be long enough to reach the USDM sidemarker wiring.

This post has been edited by richee3: Nov 10, 2011 - 6:20 PM

>


oh that explains it, my lights came with the 194 bulb and socket but to wire that connects to the socket lucky u lol

>
No wires for the sockets? Wow, that's rotten luck. Maybe there's a way to pop the socket open and get your own wires in there? I didn't look since mine had enough wire hanging off of the socket. I'd bet the socket can be cross-referenced to a USDM socket so you can go to a scrap yard and get the right socket and pigtail from another car or if, like me, you don't want your fender sidemarkers lit up, Fastbird has a quick how-to for making the USDM sidemarker sockets work. You'll need to extend your wires but...

>

( http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=66367&st=0 )

When did this thread go from beams swapping to light bulbs....Pick your game up Daniel.

>
Hey! My light bulbs work! That's more than I can say about the BEAMS. See? I'm making progress. Baby steps

This post has been edited by richee3: Nov 10, 2011 - 7:30 PM

Ahh I see now, that is easy enough! Thanks!


Now i'm wondering if I have those wires...Been a while since i've installed them, much less worked on the cellie.