>

Take it easy on the pedal, try not to launch.

Nope. Not gonna launch. I just bought a new passenger side axle from carquest. It's a reman, but I've heard good things about Cardone axles. So I'm hoping it's thicker than stock, and a little more durable. The driver side axle I believe is one of the thicker remans as well.

Ya these cars a hard to launch, I found just under 3k and a light right foot gets the trick done. Just have a light right foot on the top of first and second cause it will just want to spin and just let it have it in third and your goneeee.. 3rd gear gets them everytime.. Hit 4th and check your rear view for the car lengths.. On the track of course

This post has been edited by Ted95: Feb 24, 2012 - 8:54 PM

With the new transmission mounted, I go to take the ol' girl for a ride and after I hit the throttle I got at code 54.

I checked the fluid level in the top mount - full. I blipped the throttle and the fluid didn't swirl or move. Turns out the pump isn't pumping anymore. Would a rebuild (changing the bearings) do the trick or is the motor shot. It didn't make any horrible noises. With the battery out of the car I connected the pump to the battery and it barely pumped.

Only tests from the book I didn't do were to check the level sensor and test the intercooler cap.

Wondering if I should replace the pump or rebuild or go fmic.

If I replace the pump it would be with this pump:
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?products_id=1001

and this heat exchanger (mine OEM HE is bent up):
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?products_id=1026

What do you guys think?

if you have the time and tools, rebuild the pump, is cheap enough.

I have an extra pump with bad bearing waiting for a rainy day for me to take the time and rebuild

I have a spare pump if you want it, PM me an offer.

I'd run the FMIC, less mechanical stuff to go wrong.

Hi,

do you also checked the level sender, do he work?
you must reset the ecu after a code54 to make the pump running (pull EFI fuse for a few seconds)!

i'am using a jabsco 80L/min pump, but you have to built a 54-killer the ecu

for pictures have a look
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...t=0&start=0

greetz

+1 on the pump rebuild, the new bearings only cost me a few bucks and the rebuild itself took me maybe a half hour on the bench.

There is a write-up in the how-to section here http://www.gtfours.co.uk/

There is also a how-to fix your code 54 on that same sight

I still have a 54. Super annoying.

So after rebuilding the pump, I go to check that it will pump, and the battery turns out to be dead. (it was 6 years old) so i replaced it. After that the pump worked fine.

I might have an idea on where to look because my wiring harness doesn't give me a reading for M+ and M- when the ignition is set to ON. [EG-101 7.Inspect Engine ECU for Circuit]

i probably messed up the harness while moving it out of the way to get to the trans bolts.

>

nope. that's not the problem.

haven't tried replacing the pump yet. maybe that'll do the trick...

The code 54 was popping up because I recently plugged my radiator switch into my new radiator. Why would that matter? Because if you wire in your intercooler relay into the fan power wires, and not plug in the water temp switch the fans will keep running and supply power. (B-O & L-R - Pins #2 and 4) are actually supposed to go to CDS fuse and ea1 pin #6. Arg. Took forever to find. Bad gremlin, bad!

glad you found it.

I have a more interesting one that poped up this week.

when I'm on boost my wipers come on

there have been 2 changes to my car. oil pressure guage and LED AC unit.

I'm leaning toward the crappy oil pressure guage, as soon as I installed it my temp gauge stopped working ( has worked for 3+ years fine ) and is the most recent change to the car.

Hate electrical issues.

Your windshield wipers come on when you hit boost?!
thats gotta be the funniest thing ever.
Hope you get it fixed, sounds like a short somewhere

>


Where/how did you install the gauge? Where's the power supply coming from, where'd you mount it etc?

the guage gets power from the battery, triggered by ignition ( throught a relay ) I think the problem is the oil pressure sensor, it has a (=) and a ground and I think the sensor has a short, it'll be as easy as disconnecting the sensor to test this, will try tomorrow.

but at least I know there are only 2 things that I have changed and it wasnt doing it before ( been driving the car since Dec. )

has to be a short somewhere. how the hell can the wipers go on at boost?! i wish u caught your reaction to the first time it happened.