Got a call from the wheel shop just now. Apparently on top of my wheel leaking from the seal, it has a bend in it. Nothing big, but it's there, so I might as well have it straightened.


$300 down the drain for the straightening and reseal. I'll have the wheel back on Tuesday.

Damn, that blows.

$800 for the wheels and tires
$200 for one rim to be straightened after hitting random debris in the road
$300 to seal another rim and straighten it.

$1300 into these rims so far...

Got all four corners installed last night. Still sitting funny because of the spare on the back passenger, which is throwing off all four corners, but this is what it's looking like right now.



One finger gap on the front driver's side with ~ -1 degree camber


Trying to load the passenger side to photobucket, but it keeps loading like garbage, so you can just take my word on it. Front has like +2 degree camber, and no wheel gap... Stupid spare is ruining my aesthetics!

Running into a few last minute problems...

My engine harness is missing a plug for the knock sensor... so I'm a bit worried about that. I'm going to look over the harness again, but I'm sure that if it was there I would have seen it...

Finally got that picture to load properly... Here is my ghetto setup.. Herra frush!

Dope. Run it like that on first start-up.

Talk about a peg leg burn out.

those rims look nice!

It poured yesterday, so I didn't want to get under the car with standing water, so I did some crap up top.

- Modified the ignitor bracket and mounted that to the driver's side strut tower under the sail panel so you don't see it.



- Modified the ACIS canister bracket to bolt to the stock 5S ignitor location on the rear firewall under the fusebox, again so you don't see it.


- Ran a line from the coolant overflow bottle across the back side of the motor and over to t he coolant neck.
- Installed new heater core lines.


- Put the driver's side sail panel back on, then my engine lid and the new gas shock.



My question for the uber gurus - as you can see in the first picture, the fuel line from the engine to the fuel filter is WAY too short, and I need to either replace it or extend it by about a foot. Replacing doesn't seem feasible on the cheap, as the line is pressed into fittings on each end. Is there a way for me to extend the line so that it reaches?

The fuel system isn't an area I'd cheap out on, just bite the bullet and buy a new one, the last thing you want is to set your new 1mz on fire 0_0

you can have a line made or get a kit that lets you make your own. Just find a hydraulic shop and have them make you some lines, they can install the fittings and crimp them for you to be just like factory.

Buying a new one is going to be more like cutting the old hard line, threading it, and running a custom line with custom adapters that I would probably need to order and wait to arrive. If it were as easy as unclamping a line and replacing it I wouldn't even bother asking the question.

Bitter - I will check on that - as I'm sure there are shops in the area that can do that, but I'm thinking the line isn't removable. It's pressed into a fitting that is integrated with the hard line. I might be able to take the entire hard line off and have a shop extend it. I'll look into that when I get home.

This post has been edited by 95CelicaST: Mar 27, 2011 - 2:02 PM

>
You don't understand me, you can have a shop make you a line which will be the correct length and have your OEM fittings at either end which will connect correctly. Heck, you can have them make it as a braided stainless steel line for extra security and abrasion resistance.


Sorry, didn't see your edit.
Yes, the flex line separates. I've replaced one before

This post has been edited by Bitter: Mar 27, 2011 - 2:08 PM

Well the hardline doesn't separate from the fuel rails, so I hacked the line off the 5s and cut the 1mz banjo fitting off and jammed a brass barb in the two and tightened it down with fuel line clamps. This is temporary for me to confirm the car runs fine before towing it to get that line replaced as will as my exhaust fabricated and hooked up.

Also ran a new fuel return line... No more ziptied hose holding the motor in, much to Hector's dismay.

In the garage now

I may have missed, but have you fired it up yet?

Nope. Pushed it into the garage. There will be a video posted when it does fire up for the first time.

Still have to move the throttle cable, route coolant lines, and install the front motor mount. I attempted the mount last night, but the bolt holes in the firewall weren't lining up... I suspect that the poly inserts are going to need a bit of massaging to get it all to line up. It's in the garage because I was tired of laying on the wet ground outside.


Tsunami car show on Sunday at Pacific Raceways. I'm trying to get it done before then so I can attend.

Very nice swap. Makes me miss my mr2, again.

I miss my MR2 as well... Wish it was running already.


I'm having a hell of a time getting the clutch slave cylinder/front motor mount to line up and install properly. It seems like an impossible task for one person, or my clutch fork isn't in right, with concerns me because I don't want to take this out again. A friend is coming over Saturday to help me out with this.

I install the clutch slave assembly+ front motor mount bracket - and the top two holes for the slave assembly do not line up... at all. It needs to move to the right (if you're under the car), which means the slave cylinder needs to compress, which I can't get enough leverage to do AND put bolts in. This is causing the front mount to not line up with the holes in the frame... and putting a serious damper on my V6 buzz. I've spent three days (only a few hours total) trying to get this sorted out with no luck and I'm getting really frustrated with it. I've been putting it off and putting it off, but it's crunch time and only a couple things left to do now, so putting it off isn't an option anymore. I don't recall having this much trouble when I reinstalled my 5S, but then again I had a LOT more room to work under the car with the 5S.


I did get the throttle cable re-routed and installed, so that is done now. I am going to address the coolant line problem this evening when I get home from work and hopefully get that all sorted out. Stopping by the Toyota junkyard near my house on my way home to grab the 1MZ OEM intake pipe so I can get the intake installed.

This damned motor mount!


So I needed to replace my clutch slave cylinder. It was blown out from someone hitting the clutch while moving the car around with the slave out of the clutch fork. Not a big deal. $20 and a few minutes of my time.


But I STILL cannot get this mount bolted in. You can see in the picture below (all shot from under the car) the mount holes are not going to line up with the frame...



So I took the poly mounts out and installed the stock setup... and got this.


I'm confused as to why this isn't sitting centered. All of the other motor mounts are in just fine. This one just isn't lining up. I'm about to notch the motor mount bracket so that it works, but the mounts are attached to the transmission - and that did not change. This SHOULD be working. I don't get it.

have you tightened all the other mounts.

if so, loosen them up and may give you more wiggle room..

may help, if not weld a plate in the bracket and redrill.

I need side-to-side wiggle room. Loosening the back mount won't give me that, and to loosen the sides I'd need to put the hoist back on the motor.

loosen the bolts on the trans side too so you have some more play in everything and then have a friend jack and pry the engine around till you can get 2 large nails into the holes to act as alignment pins. I've had problems lining up mounts on cars, ended up needing someone to just brute force move the engine around some. Some mounts at rest have weight on them and will never line up right unless you shift the engine. Make sense?

Makes sense, it's just that the last three times I've pulled MR2 motors I have never needed to do this.

So don't loosen the thru-bolt for the transmission side mount, but the actual bolts that hold the mount to the transmission?

loosen everything and wiggle it around till you get that mounts bolts in, don't tighten them. then work on belt end mount, the trans mount, and finally the last mount. once all are bolted finger tight and fully threaded, run them all down tight. You've been working with a different engine with different mounts, weight and balance.

Why don't you just fly out here and wrap this swap up for me

:lol: whats the job pay?

airfare + room + food + bashing on noobs together + ?


This sh*t is priceless!


In other news, coolant hoses and shift cables are hooked up. Short of that front motor mount and fluids this should be ready to fire up.

Pass, costs $88.95 an hour for me but the advice is always free.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Apr 4, 2011 - 12:08 AM

you need these guys help...