damn that cam makes it sounds amazing

Here is another vid.

http://youtu.be/IX4DeAHb_6k

Question of concern..
Will the wastegate hit the radiator because of the front to back movement of the engine? Looks awfully close..

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 15, 2015 - 8:42 PM

Woooooo! Doesn't sound bad for a four cylinder, amazing what a turbo and some cam can do.

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We thought about that too. I mocked it up with a factory rad. I guess im just crossing my fingers for now.

Being the engine is already angled quite severely in the direction the motor would rock to, the mounts would have to be pretty crappy to let it rock past the point of its resting position. That being said I'd feel more comfortable with more space myself, just becomes a matter of the wastegate or radiator being easier to reposition.

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The wastegate would definitely be easier to move, however, the cost of doing so might be a little high since you would have to fab and coat new piping for it..

Not sure what mounts are in there, but if you have the poly replacements (not inserts), then I feel like you might be able to get away with it being that close.

**Went back and saw a pic of the inserts. You might just be able to get away with it, but it'll be close

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 16, 2015 - 9:29 AM

If it comes down to moving it then I will, but the motor doesn't move much with the mounts in it, but if I notice that it starts marring up the wastegate and
the radiator, then I will take care of it then. For now I'm going to let it roll, and see what happens.

Sounds excellent. Aren't you concerned about revving when the oil isn't fully circulated?

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I primed the engine first before I started it.

Got a few more things done today. The car still starts and runs strong, but at this point I'm not having to charge the battery. I went ahead and finished the wiring for the
new cooling fans, hid some wiring, got my headlights working, installed my wideband, and found an exhaust leak! W00T W000000T!

Woooo progress!

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Hooray for progress! Getting closer and closer.

So, I take it you fixed that broken wire to the passenger-side high beam ballast?

Lol nope... just rotated the plug 180 and plugged it back in. The fog lights work too. Im astonished that the bulbs didnt shatter in the wreck.

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How did you prime it?
I know it's to get oil pumped throughout the engine, but did you crank it by hand or what?

Nope. Unplugged ignitor and pulled the fuel pump relay. Then you crank for 30 seconds.

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Lucky, must be those magic hands.

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That or those gt4 brakes!

Looks like my intercooler piping isn't going to make it this week, so I have to go another week without being able to drive...which is fine I guess. I still have more little stuff to do. Still kind of irritating I just want to drive it and see what the hell it does. Even without the turbo it would probably give my BRZ a run for the money.

^That's all kinds of sad for the BRZ, and you because you bought it.

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I love you Box!

The BRZ out handles errrthang doe!

Yay, love!

If I were to buy a new car in the $25K range it'd had been a BRZ, though with the new EcoBoost Mustang it'd be a tough choice. Then again I'll never buy a new car, so the point is moot.

The new focus rs looks pretty dope! That's saying a lot for me. I hate Ford.

If you're into too many doors and wrong wheel drive, I guess. Just joking on the wrong wheel drive, I'm dead serious about the doors though.

Alright guys. Looks like I may have been wrong on my initial write up for converting the TPS AND IACV for the 4th gen onto a 3rd gen engine. I think I'm on my way to a fix for this, and it looks like I'm getting closer. The first time I started the video I had left a vacuum line off, which enabled the engine to run, but it was running full rich. When I plug the vacuum sensor the car would die. I re-adjusted my wiring, and it now idles at 1500 on a cold start up, but the a/f ratio's are still kind of all over the place. Once I get it sorted I will let you guys know what it takes to get it adapted.

Quick shout out to all the guys that commented on my Facebook post, and a special thanks to Enderswift for giving me a call, and running all the way out to his car to help me diagnose the problems with mine. You guys are tremendous!

This post has been edited by bsamps4: Feb 23, 2015 - 9:05 AM

Alright guys just a quick update, but I thought I would put it out there for all to see. I've managed to get the car running again, a few days ago it wouldn't even start. I've double checked all the wiring that I've modified so far to the TPS, and it is correct. A few days ago the car would start and either run completely lean or completely rich, I've since solved that problem and have now at least gotten fluctuating AFR's, which mean that the car is FINALLY hunting for idle. The issue I had was due to carbon build up inside of the 4th gen vacuum sender that the MAP and FPR read vacuum off of. Basically the vacuum ports were completely blocked, and needed to be cleaned, but there is another problem, and I wanted to put this out there for anyone else considering swapping a 4th gen manifold onto a 3rd 3sgte.

The IACV...no matter what you do will not work with the 3rd gen ECU. This is why...

The best way I can explain this is to put in a bit of a visual. So think about it this way. On the IACV from the 3rd there is a pulley with a rope through it. The rope has handles on each end that you can pull. If your right hand pulls further down on one side, then the handle for the left side pulls your left hand up. This is basically how the ECU handles opening and closing the IACV. so the pulley is B+, your right hand is RSC, and your left hand is RSO.

The 4th gen IACV is a rotary solenoid type valve, which is completely different from the 3rd gen. It has a power and a ground, and an RSO connection to the ECU. The 4th gen ECU is capable of pulse width modulation which turns the little motor inside of the IACV to turn the rotor to allow for differing percentages of open and shut.

No matter how you wire the sensor, the 3rd gen ECU WILL NOT be able to figure out how to work the sensor.

So in the meantime I'm working on a remedy to this issue, because my car will not idle correctly, and run's like **** when it tries to idle, which makes it almost impossible to set the ignition timing from my distributor. So this has become a HUGE headache, but I'm going to stick with it, and come up with an option...bear with me.

So the 4th gen uses PWM to vary the rotation speed of the valve to set the idle, though at the end it sounds like it just opens and closes? Either way the only thing I can think to do if using the 3rd gen IACV isn't a possibility would be to bypass the ECU and make a way of manually controlling the IACV, more or less making it a choke. If PWM is being used to set rotation speed, which I don't see why PWM would be used otherwise, would be to make a PWM generator with variable speed. I know with the older IACV you could use a potentiometer to vary the voltage and open and close the valve incrementally.

I thought about that actually, but controlling a knob in the car every time I come to a stop, or if my cooling fans being to run will get exhausting. I was thinking about contacting a machine shop to make an adapter plate to use the 3rd gen IACV, or attempting to delete the system all together and just adjusting the throttle stop screw.

You'd only have to adjust it for cold starts, and then bring it down to normal idle speed. No different than driving any car or bike with a manual choke. I'd try and get the 3rd gen IACV to work somehow though, as that way you know everything will work right.

Silly question though, does the IACV not attach to the throttle body like on the 7A and 5S?

Just tried to look at pictures, but it seems the throttle body and intake is one piece? If so that rules out the obvious of using the third gen throttle body to use the IACV.

This post has been edited by Box: Mar 2, 2015 - 6:25 PM

No they don't match up at all, and the intake manifold is keyed differently for idle air induction.