already checked all lines.. jim told me with front mount and full exhaust i.d be pushing fifteen or so pounds with stock set up. and no boost controller.. we've pressure checked all lines.. but i guess i'll maybe get a controller and try to turn it down. and prob take my down pipe off and check if waist gate is opening correctly.

My guess is a leak in your lines somewhere. Otherwise, like Culpable04 said, you should be at 13psi MAX. Also, you should check & make sure all your ignition components are good (Spark plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, distributor). My 3s was feeling REALLY sluggish whenever my boost hit 1 bar & I changed out everything except the distributor & had a much better response. If you're planning on running your engine hard, I'd suggest MSD 8.5mm wires & for plugs, NGK BKR7Eix's & make sure the plugs are the iridium ones. It's best to go with original factory Toyota parts for cap & rotor in my opinion. That's only if you think your ignition components are bad, or just not keeping up with your setup.


-Ryan

ya i'm gonna keep checking things out. the plugs only have couple hundred miles on them. and cap rotor and plug wire.s were all brand new from toyota. so i'll have to do some more checking on waist gate and the actuater. we'll figure it out hopefully lol. and i'm running same plugs you suggested lol.

Also another quick question.. Now i've been doing some thinking. and as i'm running front mount air-to-air instead of the factory top mount water-to-air. I have the diagnosis thing jumped so i don't throw a code. But the question i'm asking is. Am i supposed to get rid of the water lines that run to the turbo? or just leave them hooked up? Hoping to get to work on it this week sometime.. Been pretty busy lately lol.

Alright guys well havn't had time to upload any pics of dropping engine in and everything.. So here ya go..


After getting ACT 6 puck clutch installed


After i got the transmission lined back up and bolted to block.


Slowly starting to drop engine into the car


After we got her in the car. Getting ready to tow her back to my house to install everything else.


After installing my intercooler piping (testing)


Testing the front mount placement


After getting it running and we put bumper back on (love the front mount)


A random shot i took yesterday..

Well hope ya guys enjoy.. I almost have 3k miles on it since i got her running.. I'm still having that problem. But hopefully get her fixed.. Jim told me a boost controller would fix my problems.. Hopefully he's right lol.. thanks everyone for your help

nerver get rid of the water lines that go to the turbo !

ya never did. just asked.. but car runs pretty good. it's fun

OUTSTANDING BRO!!! youre gonna LOOVE THIS!

on a side note... im REALLY against you taking out your crash bar for your intercooler... not worth the risk. be safe man!

Thanks man. And ya i know i had a custom crash bar made when body kit got installed it was a steel bar.. But problem was we couldn't fit it in there with the intercooler. So we left it out.. I know its not safe. But i know a lot of people take it out just to get body kit to fit.. But i'll be fine.. (hopefully) lol.. Just hoping when i get exhaust and a boost controller.. I can fix my flutter problem when i'm WOT and hitting thirteen to fifteen lbs. lol.

I don't think the few layers of aluminum that are our crash bar, serve much purpose.

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you can't be more wrong.

driving without a crash bar is not safe in any way, and is not something to leave to chance, with cars you don't " hope " to be safe, you take appropiate measure to make the car as safe as possible, don't take this the wrong way, but is highly irresponsible to spend the amount of money one of this swap cost and then put your life and your passenger's life at risk because you didn't wanna buy the appropriate crash bar ( GT4 crash bar fits with your bumper and Front mount intercooler )

Plus if you do crash it good enough, your probably going to damage your endine pretty good too, whereas with the same accident the crash bar would probably prevent that.

I know youre aware of the risks... but just look at this... crashbar kept=Motor reused for black celica. just food for thought... not to mentioned life saved.

ya i've already had it in bad accident. but also had a steel bar.. instead of aluminum. personally i.d never have a aluminum bar as a crash bar my steel one was a million times better. specially with all my other reinforcements that are in my bumper.. the steel one will be custom cut to fit in there again. cars not daily driven. so not to worried winters coming lol.

just want to point out that ST205 crash bar is made out of steel, only USDM bar is alluminum.

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Didn't say go without one. If you review my previous post, you would see where I said "serve much purpose" - I even specify the alum. aspect of it.

But, I do appreciate you going into a long dissertation on safety and irresponsibility.

When mine ..served its purpose, it caused more damage, then saved. Just like how seat belts occasionally strangle someone, before the medics can pull them out.