Yes i've gotten the regulator out.. Problem is. is trying to find a new one.. lithia toyota don't carry them.
3rd gen 3sgte swap. NEW PICS! (last page) - 6G Celicas Forums
Got regulator out. When took it out we found some problems with it. So i'm looking for a aftermarket regulator. or someone selling a stock one for the 3rd gen 3s. lol
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
Are u not getting a check engine light? Did u bother to check for any codes?
DG. No check engine light was on.. and no codes were going off.. When we unplugged the IAC the check engine light came on. But then shut off when we plugged it back in. So we know the light works lol.. But we figured it out.. when we took regulator out it had fuel coming out of the vacuum port. So thats my rich/idle problem. and also had the iac line capped off so that will prob fix my idle problem also lol.. Hopefully get my part today or tm and get her running lol.
Fuel pressure regulator came in today.. Got it put on and put a filter on my IAC line.. Started her up. And she'll idle finally lol.. Idle is at 200 RPMs tho. And at that RPM i'm at 38 or 39lbs of fuel pressure.. That seem right? or still to high? My cars still smoking garage out in couple min. And seems to still smell gassy.. So wondering if there is somthing else screwed up. or if it's about right if we adjust the idle.. thanks in advanced
Well got idle up to about 1k. But while its running it'll run fine at that idle then it'll idle down by itself (while still warmed up) And start blowing smoke. And miss a few times. (with brand new plugs only had car running for twenty min with them) then it'll go back up to 1k rpms and clean itself back out.. and few min later it'll go back down to 8 or 9 hundred rpm start blowing smoke and missing. Then go back to clean 1k idle. does it all the time. Turned motor off. checked plug and there all pitch black already from only running twenty min.. So i'm thinking o2 sensor or a coolant temp sensor is bad or somthing making it do that.. any ideas? thanks getting happy that it atleast idle's now lol.
And after it ran for that twenty min to a half hour the check engine light came on. So gonna prob hook it up to diognostics tm. And check that out.. Maybe will tell me my problem that i have now lol.. We'll see. getting pumped and ready to role this out onto the streets tho lol.
Also i found out. when i rev engine to about 4k and try to go farther. it stops at 4k and goes to like 2500 and starts burning rich again and rpm wont go higher then 4k. I know it seems like i'm having a crap ton of problems with this swap.. wish there was someone around my neck of the woods with this swap to help me out lol.. But it's just me around here lol.
This post has been edited by celiracer: Jul 18, 2011 - 9:00 PM
And after it ran for that twenty min to a half hour the check engine light came on. So gonna prob hook it up to diognostics tm. And check that out.. Maybe will tell me my problem that i have now lol.. We'll see. getting pumped and ready to role this out onto the streets tho lol.
Also i found out. when i rev engine to about 4k and try to go farther. it stops at 4k and goes to like 2500 and starts burning rich again and rpm wont go higher then 4k. I know it seems like i'm having a crap ton of problems with this swap.. wish there was someone around my neck of the woods with this swap to help me out lol.. But it's just me around here lol.
This post has been edited by celiracer: Jul 18, 2011 - 9:00 PM
So u are using the old oxygen sensor that came with the swap? If so... Buy a new one on partsgeek for 95 mr2 turbo for like 53 bucks.
This post has been edited by DG_Performance: Jul 18, 2011 - 9:55 PM
This post has been edited by DG_Performance: Jul 18, 2011 - 9:55 PM
its not the oxigen sensor, i had no one on my car for one run and it doesnt do that bad,
the normal rpm is 700, your engine try to get to normal rpm after warm up, i have seen other treahd that ppl cant go more than 4k but i dont know much about it, check the old threat, you should find anwser
GL,
the normal rpm is 700, your engine try to get to normal rpm after warm up, i have seen other treahd that ppl cant go more than 4k but i dont know much about it, check the old threat, you should find anwser
GL,
Codes that came up are speed senser, coolant temp sensor. And map sensor.
This post has been edited by celiracer: Jul 20, 2011 - 8:44 PM
This post has been edited by celiracer: Jul 20, 2011 - 8:44 PM
Off of those codes. we went into the st205 repair manual. And did every step they say with checking volts and everything.. We checked the coolant temp sensor and the map sensor. And both came out fine for voltage and also checked the e1 and the +b on the ecu. them came out correct also. So i'm really running out of things that could be wrong with my car. Everytime i start it. it goes to 2oo rpm and bounces. Also runs rough and rich. can't ever get it to clean back out.
I just had the map sensor code and it made my car super rich too. Did u test the sensor output to see what ur base voltage is without car running... And then test it when at idle. Mine ended up being bad
I believe we did. and weird thing is in my 95 gt that is my daily driver. that map sensor in there is same part number. and looks identical to the one i got for my swap.. were running out of ideas. and it's stressin me out.
Cleared codes. and let it run again. Now only codes i am getting are 42 and 47. But still can't get it to idle right. It just idles rough. And goes from 1k rpm and goes down to 200rpm all by itself and burns black smoke like crazy.. Anyone know of any other ideas? starting to run out of them lol.
Sounds like u got the wrong map sensor with ur swap A third gen map sensor should have a purple label on top and there is no way a regular gt map sensor is the same.
Well if i had wrong map sensor would it still run and not throw a code?? and it's the same part number that i got from lithia toyota.. Whats the part number for the 3sgte map sensor? Maybe that is my biggest problem all along and i would like to fix it lol.. also what is code 47? I can't find that code anywhere on the repair manual..
The map sensor i got with my swap is 89420-20300.. and looking off other people with part numbers its supposed to be 89420-20310? Or manny's sticky with part numbers is 89420-17050 Which one is it?
This post has been edited by celiracer: Jul 21, 2011 - 8:51 PM
The map sensor i got with my swap is 89420-20300.. and looking off other people with part numbers its supposed to be 89420-20310? Or manny's sticky with part numbers is 89420-17050 Which one is it?
This post has been edited by celiracer: Jul 21, 2011 - 8:51 PM
A map sensor that is wrong will let the car run but run crappy. So yes it could be not letting the ecu throw u the code cause it sees a working map sensor and don't know that it is the wrong one. U can use the 310 or the 050 but not the one u have!
ya i figured that' lol. thanks man. finally found my problem... hopefully get one here this coming week. been driving me nuts. lol.
I have a connection I can get u a brand new 3rd gen sensor for 290 shipped. If u need one let me know
thanks man. should have one mon or tues. hopefully get her running this week so i can take her out lol as long as i got all the gremlins worked out of her lol.
Here's the part number for a ST205 MAP sensor :
89420‑20310
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1997_TOYO....html?hl=89421A
Sam
89420‑20310
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1997_TOYO....html?hl=89421A
Sam
Ya. thanks man. I was supposed to have one next day aired and have it mon or today. But still haven't seen it yet. So i guess we'll see when i get it..
well good news. got map sensor this a.m. plugged her in and she started right up. messed with idle. changed my plugs and got radiator fluid all full. and changed the oil. started it again. and took it for a test drive. make sure couplers were gonna hold. hit 5 pounds everything held ok.. took it home put hood and bumper on. then i started it when it cooled down. it idle at 4 hundred and sputtered. sometimes die. then once warmed up idle is at 9 hundred and fine sputters every once in while then. with ac on and stopped it'll idle an eventually die but when driving around with it. it runs fine. any ideas? just mess with idle more? thanks in advance.
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sound like u got the wrong spark plugs in there... i just changed mine the other day did the same thing took them out put my ngk's back in and is running fine now
>well good news. got map sensor this a.m. plugged her in and she started right up. messed with idle. changed my plugs and got radiator fluid all full. and changed the oil. started it again. and took it for a test drive. make sure couplers were gonna hold. hit 5 pounds everything held ok.. took it home put hood and bumper on. then i started it when it cooled down. it idle at 4 hundred and sputtered. sometimes die. then once warmed up idle is at 9 hundred and fine sputters every once in while then. with ac on and stopped it'll idle an eventually die but when driving around with it. it runs fine. any ideas? just mess with idle more? thanks in advance.
sound like u got the wrong spark plugs in there... i just changed mine the other day did the same thing took them out put my ngk's back in and is running fine now
ya. I got the oe ngks in there now.. that's why i wasn't thinking that was the problem..
oh no injectors have been checked. there good. not flooding as i drove it 75 miles last night.. when on highway i opened it up in 2nd hits about 15 lbs but while it's there it bounces from that to 14 till i let off.. only time it sputters is when i'm stopped and at idle don't do it while i'm driving it'
Make sure the middle size vac tube from under the tb(the iac hose) is breathing easy. And the vac switching valve is not clogged up with gunk too. Take of the tb and clean out the port for the iac with some carb cleaner. Idle should be nice and smooth after that. Unless u got a random vac leak hiding somewhere.
Yea we cleaned that all out when engine was getting reassembled. And the IAC has a filter on it. So it should be breathing pretty good..
