>Alright fellas, play nice. I know everyone has their preference. From the way things are sounding I will be trying to get a Ct 20b. Both of you are essentially telling me to do the same just from different sides of the fence. Thank you all for your time and consideration on this subject. I will be posting a WTB in the Buying and Selling forums, I'll keep you all posted.

>i have unhooked my turbo off of my engine and kept up with a 08 350z ........................dyno from atsracing on a stock block with 22PSI 22PSI 22PSI

ATS CT27 250-370 horsepower ON A STOCK BOLT ON SET UP ON BOLT ON SET UP ON A STOCK BOLT ON SET UP JDM STOCK LONG BLOCK SET UP STOCK STOCK DO U KNOW WHAT THE WORD STOCK MEANS


Mods on test car: JDM stock long block, Greddy Intercooler, KO 3" TKO exhaust, ATS Tuned Rom set for 550cc injectors, 550cc injectors, Walbro Fuel Pump, K&N style intake.........22 PSI.................................like i said if u can READ a built motor! with piston injectors cams 3" berk down pipe will get u over 500hp i dont think u have even seen a car with 300hp ............ATS CT27 BLOT ON KIT do u know what BLOT ON MEANS! ....3" exhaust, downpipe, aftermarket intake, and boost controller are highly recommended. Dyno results range from 300 flywheel horsepower at 16psi with primary catalytic converter in place to 330 horsepower at 17psi with 3" downpipe. Choose the dual map option (+$50) to run race gas and up to 19psi and 350 horsepower<===ct27 on a bolt kit...............have u ever built a engine when u upgrade stuff it tends idk to want to go faster wen your engine does more work than the turbo WHEN YOU HAVE A BUILT ENGINE the freaking size of the turbine doesn't matter if u didn't know all a turbo does is blow air in the engine u can blow all the air in the engine u want but if u dont have good internals upgraded INJECTORS your not going anywhere but boom the more psi is just how much air is in your engine and how fast its going threw i have cars that will put your little gt4 to shame non turbo itsnt that funny.. a ct27 turbo runs stock boost a 10 psi and to add on top of all this my friend has a ats ct27 turbo on his 3sgte pushing 400+ at 23 psi im not just runnin my mouth ive seen the turbo work in real life real time ive been to ats ive seen this turbo more times than any of u guys andu keep sayin trim trim trim trim dude ontill you are running 800hp and have a huge t4 turbo a 50 trim really doesn't matter u want a smaller trim for better spool time and less lag low compression high compression it dont matter u can make both of them go fast with out a turbo so since u have no idea what a engine does lets break down the 3sgte reallllyy reallly fast and see how it would run without a turbo ohhh wait they made a engine just like it what is it called hmmmm letttt me think a beamsssss 3sge ohhhh yeahhh that engine wow its a high compression engine yesss guess why because it doesn't have a turbo on it so i wonder how fast a 3sgte will be without a turbo on it hmm oh wait i know this one because ive done it before as fast as a beams that little turbo u have on your car guess what it only adds about 70hp maybe 60hp haha what did u really think a stock turbo ct20b ct26 adds a 150hp yeah never hmm where does all the power come from hmm i dont know maybe the engine ive never heard someone say a stock turbo puts out more horse power than the engine ITS STOCK! the turbo just helps the engine go faster thats why when u want to go faster what do u do u upgrade your internals thennnnn u up grade your turbo so it can keep up with the new horse power u just added to your engine its ohh wait lets upgrade the turbo then the engine haha u wont have a engine to upgrade because WHY! its going to go booom so if u can understand what im saying you can make your engine go faster without upgrading the turbo the turbo in this case is the help thats all im sure u can build the 3sgte engine to 500hp without a turbo easy then put a turbo on to get u up in the 700's maybe low 800s...and therefore i know u dont know what u are talking about because u said u cant take the ct20b pass 13psi when me and easternpiro are both runnin are ct20b on 15psi and he plans on taking his up past 15psi

>

>Well, found the turbo, and the injectors both should be here by Monday. Now for the Uego w/ IPhone capabilities and an EGT sensor. Time to message partz.net for gaskets and such. Thanks for the info and watchful eyes gentlemen, by the by if you own a 3sgte the guys over on mr2oc have a buttload of parts. I should have looked there first there are at least two ct 20b's and a few sets of injectors to say the least. Don't get me wrong I love 6gc and the community you guys are the greatest just sayin they gots maaaaaad parts Yo!

>They should fit, and would be the same flow as factory ST205 injectors, should be good for approx 300hp. Most people seem to use SARD 800's, to go further.

>brenton, brent both 2nd and 3rd gen have side feed injectors.
and deliusions, both of you guys need to stop.
if you cant act like adults, and debate the diffrences between the 20b, 26 and 27, ill just ban you both, i dont have time for this crap.

thread re-opened.

no chances, so dont push it.

art, get a 20b, preferably a WRC version if you can.

if you want a 1 year warranty, and prefer a remanufactured turbo, get the ct-27.

unlike these 2 guys, who just have hearsay and no direct experience with the ct-27, i have had both turbos. they are virtually identical as far as performance.

i actually have my old '27 in the garage, needs a new thrust bearing after 5 years of beating the hell out of it.

>Sorry guys, It was already gone a bit too far and then I completely pushed it off the edge.

Sorry Brent

>CT20b we know is 48mm
CT26 is 42mm
Mine apparently is 46mm

What is that monster 7 blade one then?

>i wanna know what spoolup is like on CT27.

Car gives u a slap in the face somewhere between 2500 and 3000 on a CT20b

On the CT26/T04E 46mm I had, it made a lazy transition into power at 4000 and achieving 18psi by 5000. with only 12psi by 4000, 10 psi around 3000, and barely 3psi under 3000

>There are very few options (at least in the USA) for changing the turbine housing or wheel. The single entry CT-26 turbine is easily available, but it does not bolt to the stock MR2 turbo elbow, so serious modifications are required to use it. The most widely available alternative is to clip the turbine wheel. Clipping the wheel does reduce its ability to extract energy from the exhaust, but since there is so much exhaust at the higher RPMs where the stock turbine wheel chokes the engine, clipping is a reasonable choice. Dyno runs with a 12 degree clip have shown ~15 rwhp improvements in peak horsepower and moved the choke point from around 5.5K to 6K RPMs. There is a slight increase in turbo lag, but this can be kept to a minimum if the compressor wheel is kept to a modest size (since there is really no need to go with a large compressor wheel as we determined in the 3S-GTE turbo sizing primer).

At the current time, my suggestion for a twin entry CT-26 upgrade is to add a TO4E-46 trim compressor wheel and perform a 15 degree clip on the turbine wheel. Those who have ceramic turbine wheels (only used in Japanese spec 3S-GTEs) cannot clip due to the brittleness of the material, but the smaller ceramic turbine is already a little less restrictive than the metal one and naturally supports about 10 rwhp more that its unclipped sibling.

>This what ATS do? Clip the USDM steel exhaust wheel? But mine had ceramic so can't be clipped, but still less restrictive than the steel anyways

So either way you look at it, What I had with the T04E-46 is pretty standard procedure, and with the JDM ceramic turbine being comparable to a clipped steel wheel (technically will mean mine has less lag at the cost of 5hp??) It seems my CT26 upgrade turbo isnt far off the ATS 27 after all.

This being the case I can say better off with the CT20b??? 1500rpm earlier spool, 4wheel tyre smoking punch in the mid range, just as good up top?

>i wanna know what spoolup is like on CT27.

Car gives u a slap in the face somewhere between 2500 and 3000 on a CT20b

On the CT26/T04E 46mm I had, it made a lazy transition into power at 4000 and achieving 18psi by 5000. with only 12psi by 4000, 10 psi around 3000, and barely 3psi under 3000