i vividly remember the limited days i had with a ct20b, i'd go around a corner from really low revs and if i had my foot anywhere past half way, once the tacho needle moved past 2800 the engine would just suddenly go mental and the rear wheels would slide sideways, but it was really nice to drive too in low revs, totally effortless.

then this ct26 (jdm ceramic)/t04e-46 i had after that, everything was smooth but gutless down low, there was never enough boost to even try to go fast until 3500, and then at 4000 it made a very smooth linear transition into power, didnt make good power until 5000 and then between 5000 and 7000 it totally haulled ass, but its hard to compare the top end because the ct20b plateaus at 6000, but its very quick anyways at those revs

In my opinion to best use a CT26/T04e-46 hybrid turbo you need a 3s-gte stroked to 2.2 thats still capable of revving to 7000.

In that case a ct20b would be no good since it would plateau alot earlier than 6000 and drop off by 7000, but the ct26 rear housing since it contains a larger exhaust wheel would help solve that.

But then you could make a CT26 rear housing/CT20b front housing hybrid which could be even better than machining a ct26 for a t04e-46 wheel since the ct20b already has a 48mm.

Or possibly even a CT20b rear housing and CT26/T04e-46 front housing for supercharger like performance on a 2L

> mine is 13psi at 3000 and 15psi the rest of the way... i think i need a different fuel pump because for some reason going from 3rd to 4th now its like 1 2 3 go i need to find the problem its killing my car

This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 10, 2011 - 7:46 PM

>

see thats what a 20b should be like on a 2L 3S-GTE, if you had AWD or RWD that kick right there puts you sideways if your not careful. I assume in your FWD it gives you instant torque steer if you dont lift off the throttle by 3000?

> yeah front wheel drive line changin right there... i have to lift off no choice

LONG story short it is in but the waste gate is not returning to the full closed position. The actuator rod is to long, the steel of the plate to move the position of the actuator is too thin and keeps flexing. So while I had it in I bent the bracket that the actuator sits on (or so I thought), during that time I got incredible boost (compared to the 26) at about 50% of the Turbos max output according to my boost gauge. That output @ 50% was about 10-11 psi. Spool up was very smooth and quick, torque steer is off the map though (need an LSD, Be calling you soon Culp). Since then though the steel of the bracket and or it's holding plate has had a chance to relax again, sooooooooooooo... ...Tomorrow is another day. Tomorrow I will be either re-bending the rod to the specifications in how to, altering the bracket to allow for the rod length, or cutting and welding the rod to the proper length of I believe it is 7 3/8.

I have pictures and such but I refuse to post them until I am finished (it's bad luck IMO). I should be completely finished with the gremlins tomorrow.

Congrats dude, I knew the difference would be incredible

if you have to just cut off some of that rod and weld the end back on, or possibly re-drill the hole where the little circlip is

didnt think there would be a difference since i have a ct20b actuator on a ct26 and theres no sign of any modification

[/quote] hey delusionz didn't u say it has he has to grind down on the down pipe? or the waste gate will hit it not allowing it to work right ?

From the look of your profile pick Delusionz you have the GT-4 setup, I don't I have a FMIC instead of the top mount that you have, so I have to "clock" or rotate my compressor housing. When you do that you have to remove the waste gate actuator from the housing because it can either no longer operate at that angle or because of clearance issues with the hood and or coolant lines I believe. When you do this you have to make a bracket plate that is connected to the trans bolts, the spacing compared to that of the original mount point on the housing is shorter in distance than the original placement. Thusly you have to bend the actuator rod to a shorter overall length. That length being 7 + 3/4". Either my actuator rod is too long or the plate isn't rigid enough to withstand the movement. ( Again as before no sarcasm or condescension, IF you already knew this I was just trying to give an in depth explanation)

Brenton1919: I have checked the down pipe and measured the tolerances as well as removed my O2 sensor and visually inspected the movement of my waste gate. I peened the inside of the down pipe to insure that I had an extra 1/8" of room. 1" in from the edge of the flange is where the waste gate sits and it rises about 1 + 1/8" above the flange edge, so I have made extra sure that there are no clearance issue, thank you for the reminder though.(Same as above, no sarcasm, just information)

On a side note, I need to start using other forms of letting people know that I am just explaining, these side notes make me sound all sheepish. So raaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwrrr, piss off and stuff!

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 11, 2011 - 12:23 AM

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this is my experience with the reverse of what he's doing him st205 turbo on st185 motor, me st185 turbo on st205 motor.

So his should have already cleared fine, but as he's mentioned, he's checked all the clearance and grinded where necessary so that's all good.


Darkchyld: Yeah I didn't realise you clocked it, that explains the need to modify it you're correct there, so if you didnt clock it then it would line up yeah?

On inspection, if you clocked 180 deg CCW, you would have the wastegate actuator infront, then you could make a custom arm coming around the front which goes around and over the downpipe

Had to grind the red bit here (on the downpipe not the turbo) to the left to make ST205 downpipe compatible to CT26

>


And must use gasket to suit the turbo, not the downpipe!

This post has been edited by delusionz: May 11, 2011 - 12:44 AM

Correct Delusionz< if I didn't "clock" it the fitment would be fine, and that would be one hell of an actuator rod. I believe there would still be issues with the push/pull electric fans though.(Not entirely sure about the fan thing though)

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 11, 2011 - 12:50 AM

Well you wouldn't be able to use the heat shield thats for sure, you'd have to get a turbine beanie

With that actuator rod yeah no heat shield. As much as I really do enjoy the tech talk, I actually should go to sleep. It may be 6:00 pm over there, but it's 2:00 here. So again Thanks to all and have a good evening.

On a much better note I have new news on my old CT 26. The shop in Texas that I sent it to Turbochargers.com, formerly Texas rebuild as you know informed me that my turbine wheels were shot so to speak, that was the kick off to this whole thing, right. Well after informing them that I was just going to buy another turbo, I told them to do the seal kit and put it back together. I figured that I could just list it for $100 or something as "needs turbine wheels" or something to try and recoup a very little dough. Well that was not the case, their resident turbo tech Mark was like "I can't let this thing leave here in that condition", took it upon himself to try to shape and balance the wheels to get them back to a reliably operable state. He somehow accomplished this magnificent feat, But as I was talking to Ralph (owner or partner I am guessing, by the way he represented himself), we got to talking about his twin turbo 2jz Lexus, which is running twin Big 16's. Well Mark then took it upon himself to cut my compressor housing and replace my turbine wheels with that of the Big 16 variety (45.5mm). As if that was not enough Mark then balanced the whole thing out again and refinished the housing completely. I got a message from Ralph that my UEGO and EGT were on their way as well as my turbo, that is when I was told all of the other work occured. To my complete astonishment and delight all that extra work cost me... c'mon guess, you'll never guess. $300...nay, $200...nay, $100...nay, $50...P'shaw...............$0, That's right true believers $0 MotherF$%^in dollars. These guys went above and beyond, to accommodate me while I figured out what I wanted to do with my old turbo and then completely rebuilt and upgraded it for FREE, minus the price of the seal kit that I asked them to do. I was referred to them by a friend of mine, who has an all-wheel 94 Eclipse. He also does not have a bad thing in the world to say about these guys, The do all the machining in house, They even cut Some of their own turbine wheels out of solid blocks of aluminum, for custom applications, have a deal with AEM (Said they would match or beat anyone's price). Check them out @

http://www.turbochargers.com/

These guys are the sh!t.