Well i got alittle more figured out with the help of mr220v.
Im getting miss fires on cly 1,3,5 witch he thinks is caused by her leaning out on the top end

An hes reasoning for thinking this makes since.
The return style fuel system on the motor is set for 32psi
But the computer is setup for a returnless system that runs at 51psi
He thinks if i get it to match the ecu it will run right
He told be he had a similar problem on a 2gr swap. It would run fine till you gave her gas because the pressure in. The return line wasnt high enough. So now i just have to wait for the new regulator to show up
Witch could be anywhere from the 20th-3rd witch means she be ready for the midwest meet or right after hopefully

But today i tried regrounding the a/t signal to a known good ground with no luck
So i think im just stuck wiyh those codes. An im looking for another speed sensor. I priced a new one an she said well the cheap cheap one is 85bucks. Witch promptly lead to being my response then fallowed by when i relized she wasnt joking an i said i give up an left alil an alil that a part that small cost soo much.
Not sure of what else to do now

Are you getting an O2 sensor code. Lean on only one bank would make me think that I had a bad O2 sensor or possibly an exhaust leak on that side of the engine. Dude you gotta grab a scanner tool, it will save you in that you wont be throwing money at these issues by replacing everything, just replacing what you need.

I would definately say that fuel pump situation is causing problems. The computer is probably triming itself rich to the max to correct the lean condition and then still running lean beyond a certain rpm.

We need to find out your bank 1 and bank 2 fuel trims and the O2 sensor readings.

Also, Id suggest focusing on the fuel pump first on make the transmission a low priority. You can hold off on that VSS just get that engine purring first

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Apr 18, 2012 - 1:21 PM

No i didnt see an o2 sensor code
But come to think of it
I hink my bank 2 o2 sensor it jusy another bank 1 sensor o had layin around cuz a wire broke. On the old one

I know i dont have an exhaust leak. They spent about an hour goin over it looking for leaks just to be sure there was none

They did have to move the bank 2 sensor alittle farther down cuz it was hitting the streering rack
Hope thats not the issue

^I agree. A combination of scanner tool (purchase one for yourself at 70$ and use on all vehicles. I like mine) and a DMM (digital multimeter) are going to be key for you to get this working properly. my multimeter isn't anything special, cost me like 15 bucks bought locally and it does everything you need it to do on a daily basis and I've solved problems with it on my car, my sisters VW, and my dad's garage door opener after lighting struck the transformer... even tested a dizzy with it to find that was bad.

Start with that regulator, and get that scanner tool from someone or go buy one. Information is key here. get more information than you have problems and you'll eventually get answers.

though i do not have experiences with this motor, or much on diagnosing fuel delivery issues, i do have a strong basis of trouble shooting electronics.. and with the process of elimination, logic, and the info that you have already provided would suggest to me that you first look at the rear bank O2 sensor.. lean conditions on 1 bank.. and the same bank that you had a band-aide sensor put in, (and possibly still an open in the line (cut, bad/no ground, or even a high resistance contact (like a twisted splice that came lose during soldering and it now does not have a solid contact)) and a faulty sensor will not always trip a code or kick a CEL... so testing the sensor and the circuit that it is on will always be the best way of making sure that the system is doing what it needs to be doing..

This post has been edited by mandrek: Apr 18, 2012 - 3:24 PM

It's interesting that you're getting a misfire on cylinders 1, 3, and 5 but not 2, 4, and 6. What's going on with that rear bank? I'd love to see the real time info from the scanner. I'm not so sure that the ECU really is leaning the fuel out or else you'd have total misfires across the board. Do you have two FPR's (one for each bank) or just one for all 6 cylinders? Do all the plug wires originate from the same source or do they have two different sets of wires, one for each bank? I'm betting that those three cylinders are exactly what's causing your issues. It's just a matter of going through and checking all the factors that control air, fuel, and spark on the rear bank.

Maybe it is the O2 sensor being too far downstream, causing the ECU to lean out that bank but I'd look into other simpler/cheaper to fix causes first.

>
Lol this is like where I said that dirty connectors can cause high impedence in the circuit. At this point im addicted to heat shrink and dielectric grease. If I had to jack with the wiring once I dont ever want to have to do it again lol. Unless its the spaghetti factory disaster that is my 64 chevy harness that Im too frustrated to even look at... God I need to rip that nightmare out

Im going tomortow an gettong a new o2 sensor
An price new plug wires
Mr220v is pretty dead set its a fuel pressure problem
so im working from there

Richee3-ill try an explian the ing. In detail when i have more time

Ok 96+ 1mz have wasted spark so it has. 3 coil packs on cyl 2,4,6
The theres spark plug wires that. Run from the coil pack to cyl 1,3,5
The ignites both cylinders at the same time. It sounds crazy i know but
While cyl 2 is in compression an ignited to make piwer cyl 1 also. Reignites to burn of any extra gas
This was done to make the engine pass emissions. So im starting to wonder if my miss fire isnt be caused by bad plug wires this is thefirst those codes came up an i did move the plug elwires around today so im going to go to the junk yard saturday an grab the retainer clip things that hold the wires up off of everything an see if that helps at all

if those cyl. are misfiring that bad, then the extra unburnt fuel from being so rich could have fouled your sensor out. Before I'd replace the sensor, because you know you're misfiring, I'd get that worked out. 02 sensor or not, it shouldn't misfire. Dont want the misfires to ruin another 02 sensor.

I dont plan on doing much more till i get that regulator
really hoping this does it cuz im not gonna lie funds are getting low to get her running

It is weird it's only misfiring on the odd cylinders. Searched Google and found this: http://www.aa1car.com/library/misfire.htm Seemed to have some good info. Didn't see anything about misfiring at higher rpm's though.

Im glad you posted that cuz im just happen to think one(or all 4 ) said it was a lean missfire!!

Hope it can be of help. You'll get it right soon enough. If only we could put my philosophy of, "**** it and drop in a 350" to the Celica.

I think at this point the best thing i can do is take a break for a day an zone out on skyrim an go back to work on her the next day with fresh eyes so to speak

>
Hmmm i do have a 350 an another celica

Skyrim is awesome. I can't believe I haven't touched it in months though... Maybe if found an 85 or earlier Celica a 350 might work out.

Did you not replace those items during the build?

I dont think that would be a cause for a lean condition. Your spark plug may fire from wasted spark, but if the wires were bad I think it would be noticeable at any rpm under any load, and it would probably be running stupid rich on that bank, not lean. Lean is too much air in the AFR. I would be interested to see some data logging with throttle position, MAF readings, timing, and fuel trims. It's all easy to find. Download any OBD-II app onto your phone and get an OBD-II dongle to sync with via Bluetooth. I used Torque with an ELM327 adapter to log and export data charts which helped point me in the right direction with my issues.

You need to get the regulator in place.

>

I replaced the plugs but not the wires. They looked like they were in good shape
Were can i get that Bluetooth adapter thing at?
Im hoping it shows up before the end of the weekend i really think the fuel regulator will finally fix my issues. Mr220v has talked me through alot an he has yet to be wrong he actually mentioned the fpr might be a problem about a week or so ago but we both thought starting with the ecu an maf was the best thing to do so i could read my codes so i guess i should of ordered it sooner but i forgot it till he said something again today
Im just trying to stay calm about everything because normally im one to freakout when i can figure something out but im alittle list on this without the help

An thanks everyone for trying to help me figure this all out ill do my best to get a scanner an pull the info you guys are wanting.

CLICKY!!!!!

Those things always looked real cool but I would still suggest renting the one at autozone, its not a global OBD so it will even read ABS and SRS codes off of integrated car. Its like $200 but thats just a deposit you get it all back. I know with the way this project is going youre short on cash by now. You can even take theirs out to the parkinglot and use it, thats how Ive always done it.

But still the fuel pressure should be #1 priority. I bet that engine will be running like a dream when you get that sorted out

Im fairly sure thats my main problem. The misfire seems to normally only show up on one side or the other from what i read on other forums through google so im not as worried plus the p0300 is a random code witch means it could be happening on all 6cyl but its showing the codes for the worse set

Im going to look into buying one of those bluetooth adapters
That one in the link looks good but i didnt see a lexus or a camry with a 3.0 in the list of cars

As long as you dont take a 10lb hammer and dynamite to this car out of frustration it will be all the more loved by you when its finished. Plus you will know everything about how to fix this engine in the future. You'll be an EFI fixin machine by the time its all finished

Well i got one ordered now lol

95celicast- do i need the pro version or do you just use torque lite?
lmk i figure it that setup works on your 1mz it should work on mine

I went for the pro version - it allows you to set up multiple sets of displays, and I think data logging is only an option on the pro version. I really liked it. Can't use it now with the new ECU.

pay the $5 and get the torque pro. it will open up all of the options ....


and as for the adapter.. its but only a converter to take the signals and convert it to bluetooth.. and the torque app does the rest.. from what i know of the torque app (i just ordered a toyota 22pin OBDI to OBDII harness, and one of the ELM 327 V1.5... hoping it works on my OBDI ST) the developer is constantly pushing patches and upgrades to the app.. ( a good thing) and as long as you have an OBDII motor/ECU you should be good.. if not then you are out $25... IMO a $25 risk with good reviews, is a risk worth taking, over a known (min) $200 investment.. especial when considering how many times you are going to use the tool (a few to diagnose) or the App (alot to monitor engine vitals)

Plus you can grab a vent-mount phone holder and set up the display in the app to feed you realtime data as you drive. Who doesn't like more information?

I had one screen showing all of my fuel trims - short term and long term, one with speed, RPMs, vac, coolant temp, etc. Definitely one of my better investments. I still use it for friends/family if/when they throw a CEL.

Ok ill get the pro version when the adapters shows up
Figure it was worth asking before i spent the money

no prob bro... thats what we (the community) are here for Right?

Yep an i couldnt find a better group to ask even if i tried