This slave cylinder came with original tranny that came with the beams, so u see the pin in perfect condition. Is the first one bad??!

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 1, 2012 - 12:26 AM

there would be a lot of brake fluid and create a metal rust mess inside there. thats the bad seal that made your fluid dirty.

This was the condition from the first slave cylinder.




So then today i reinstalled the slave cylinder that came from the beams swap it looked brand new. I installed it and then pumped/bled (the clutch pedal atleast 25 times, while bleeder valve on slave was open n another person pumped the peddle) about 8 oz of brake fluid thru the lines to clear the air bubbles. Im still getting the sticky clutch and there were still some small air bubbles in the system. What am i doing wrong???!

Shud i just say the hell with it n buy the $15 plus tax already built duralast brand slave cylinder from my local car store?

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 1, 2012 - 12:26 AM

you need to close the bleeder, pump 3 times, hold pedal, release bleeder (keeping the pedal down), look if theres air, close bleeder and then you can restart the pump process (repeat). i usually go pump 3 times an interval, im scared of burning it out. once the fluid is strong and direct stream with no air (stops spitting), youre done.

keep repeating till the air pffft is gone and is solid liquid.

the only way you can leave the bleeder open and bleed is if you are doing a hose and reservoir bleed. this hose is connected tight to the bleeder, it goes into a bottle container with a good amount of brake fluid in the bottle. you put some fluid in the bottom so that it wont suck back air. you keep pumping until the air bubbles are gone.

or third you can get an brake vacuum pump kit.

did you do either of the first two? sounds like you kept the bleeder open the whole time, by doing that, you let air back in. you need to do one of the two above. the third one needs the tool to do it, which you dont really need.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 23, 2012 - 3:17 AM

http://www.wikihow.com/Bleed-a-Slave-Cylinder

^^^ oh ok!!,(let me know if I'm wrong) here's what I understood. there are three process's to go about getting air out of the slave cylinder as follows :

First Process is you need to close the bleeder, pump 3 times, hold pedal, release bleeder (keeping the pedal down), look if there is air, close bleeder and then you can restart the pump process (repeat). i usually go pump 3 times an interval, I'm scared of burning it out. once the fluid is strong and direct stream with no air (stops spitting), your are done.

Second Process : I do have a vaccuum pump kit, which means I can do it on my own. I just need someone to pump the clutch pedal to the floor, and while its on the floor I open the bleeder and pump the vacuum by hand about as many times till there's no more air??!! Then I close the bleeder up and bring up the pedal by hand. It then should feel like a normal pedal.

3rd Process: The only way you can leave the bleeder open and bleed is if you are doing a hose and reservoir bleed. this hose is connected tight to the bleeder, it goes into a bottle container with a good amount of brake fluid in the bottle. you put some fluid in the bottom so that it wont suck back air. you keep pumping until the air bubbles are gone. (the way chilton manual describes it)

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Oct 15, 2012 - 1:52 AM

i usually go for 1 and 3, for the vacuum pump kit has good examples how to use it on youtube, if thats what you choose.

Attach a clear hose to the bleeder nipple, and immerse the opposite end of the hose in a jar eith an inch of clean brake fluid at the bottom. Have a helper push down the clutch pedal slowly, and as they start to push down open the bleeder valve. As soon as the pedal reaches the floorboard have the helper holler at you to close the valve, and once the valve is shut holler back at the helper that they can release the pedal. Repeat this process until there are no more bubbles coming out of the valve into the clear hose. You will need to periodically check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir as your pumping because it is quite obviously draining into your jar on the ground. Dont leave the reservoir cap off or loose while pumping because fluid will spray EVERYWHERE. You may also want to bleed the clutch until the fluid coming out appears clear, in order to get all the old dirty fluid outta there.

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to use steps 1 and 3 do you need to have the master clutch cylinder reservoir cap on?? How much brake fluid must be in the master clutch reservoir when doing the process 1 or 3?!!!

You dont need it on or off, but from presonal experience when the clutch or brake pedal is depressed brake fluid sprays all over your engine compartment if the cap isnt on the reservoir.
As for the fluid level just keep topping it off back to the full or max fill mark. Your bleeding the system so naturally fluid is being sucked out of the reservoir as you pump it out of the bleeder valve. Just keep an eye on it and dont let it get empty or else air will get pumped into the line and you will have to bleed it all over again.

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>>>>Does the Jar have to be exactly like this picture???>>>>



Also take a look at this video, it goes black for about 10 seconds because I have to open the bleeder valve. I'm doing process one by having the helper pump 2 and on the 3rd hold. Look towards the end of the video, is the fact that the hose is not fully secured onto the bleeder valve causing that huge air bubble that starts all the way at my left hand pointer finger



or better yet TRDproven or Special Edy can you post a video of what your slave cylinder does if you hold how the clutch pedal for more than 2 seconds. IF it goes back down like mine, and doesn't hold the pressure. This is driving me up the wall...

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 1, 2012 - 12:27 AM

that looks like the right hose, i also use like a zip tie to hold it down better.

if you pump a few times and then open the bleeder, the pedal should go down a lil bit more. then you repeat.

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I'm going to try it once more with the zip tie as you advised(had that idea in mind yesterday too) and after pumping the pedal 3 times(6 full cycles) and I still have a not so firm pedal then I"m buying a new slave cylinder!!!

bit of a concern. I just bought a duralast rebuilt slave cylinder being as to why it was so cheap at $17. I noticed from autozone website that the part numbers for the 1989 3sge 2.0l slave cylinder and 1999 5sfe slave cylinder are the same. When I go to toyodiy website the part number for ST184(5sfe usdm) and ST204 5sfe usdm have the same part #'s. Even the SS-I 3SFE celica have the same part number. For some reason the SS2/SS3 are different part number vs the SS1, st184 and st204, why is that??

anyhow the pics of original slave and aftermarket one. Can I still use it???




>>If I can use this slave cylinder, Notice different in push rod, do I use the old one???>>


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 1, 2012 - 12:24 AM

bump can anyone answer my question ^^^

What the heck? Why is the pin not in there already?
I bought mine from autozone and it was already assembled...
You can also gravity bleed it, if you have the time to. That's what I did with my brakes and the pedal is pretty stiff. You don't even need to pump the pedal with gravity bleeding.

what the helk is gravity bleed??

So I can still use this slave cylinder even though its not exactly identical??!!!

... to bleed without pumping the pedal and letting the bleeder valve drip while filling the reservoir at the same time.
not the best way to bleed the system but it works. i'd still get a one-man bleeder valve kit though, those are only like $2 from the parts store or you can just make your own.

^ gravity bleeding just takes eons. but yea its not hard to bleed no matter what method you choose. but its another to keep trying to bleed with bad master or slave.

Bonzai - generally, you can use the slave if it bolts on mounts and you can get the hard line on. its just weird idk but your slave does look different. was there no way to just match your existing at the parts store? assuming the hard line connection is pointing in a different direction, im not sure how you can bend it to fit in that direction easily. exchange it in or find a place that has one matching. then keep us updated.

your OEM slave, if you have followed the instructions, you should be able to bleed it very fast. it does not take long. now your slave is more than likely busted for sure and then after you install your slave will you know if your master has burnt out by now.

Pepboys (LuK brand)



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 1, 2012 - 12:21 AM

that looks more like it. try it out.

First I just installed the new slave cylinder and I still wasn't getting any pressure to the slave.

So I installed both new clutch Master and Slave Cylinder (not oem brands) but overall cost was $65. My clutch fork was only moving in towards the slave cylinder push rod about 2mm. Then I had my mechanic come over and check the car, and he said my clutch was pretty much gone. So to get me moving around for a little while this is what he did.



>>You can see the nut on the end of the push rod for the slave cylinder. That is what's engaging my clutch hehe. >>

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 1, 2012 - 12:23 AM

which way is better to bleed the slave cylinder. I currently have no leaks on the master or slave cylinder. Also when you adjust the push rod on the master cylinder so that you have more play, are you supposed to unbolt the master from the firewall, or can you leave it mounted to the firewall and push the rod on the master about 45 degree's in order to adjust it as far back as possible??

here are the two options i know to do with the help of a friend :

pump 3 times and then on the 3rd pump hold the clutch pedal down, open the bleeder valve (look for any air bubbles), close the bleeder and lift the clutch pedal slowly. Repeat until stiffer pedal

i've also seen where you fill a resevoir with a bit of brake fluid, until you can submerge a clear line going to the bottom of the resevoir. i'm not sure what else you do after this

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well there is the manual type which is pump and release the bleeder screw, there is a hand pump, or the 1 person bleed method which is sometimes hard to do where you get a clear hose and submerge it in a good amount of fluid in a bottle, then when you pump you can see it bubble in the fluid, thats air, dont like that method too much some people use it because when you use the 1 person method it tends to suck back the fluid, the submerged part is so it does not suck back air, sometimes you also gotta run to the bleeder as fast as you can but necessarily, depends.

you are supposed to be able to adjust the rod while its already mounted but if you cant you may have to take it out but in my experience never had to unmount the master, you should be able to do it under the dash. youre actually supposed to match the rod reach as with the old one as much as you can before you install it like meaning side by side. you are supposed to have it at a proper length, i think there is a true way to do it like in a manual but you can basically wing it, and youre not supposed to extend it all the way.

the 1st one you mentioned, that is the most basic backyard method, which i use normally, but its not bleed until a stiffer pedal, its until the bleeding of fluid has no more bubbles, like a solid flow, like not spitting.

Good Luck!

i swapped out the master cylinder for a new one from o'rielly. i installed it and bench bled it. put new fluid it in, put my finger over where the clutch line goes and pushed the rod and I felt pressure/air from it. i then proceeded to install it on the car and start pumping the pedal 10 times and then opened the bleeder and no fluid came out. I even opened the bleeder valve completely and had someone push the pedal continously and no fluid came out.

i don't get it??? fluid should be coming out what gives?? it can't be my slave cylinder??

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Slave, master, proper rod length (u also don't want the pedal high), and a clutch pedal not broken. Not sure about the air unless there's a seal leak. Did u have solid pressure when u bench bled it? Normally air is from a bad brake booster. But again check if that master is good. What symptoms did it have for the reason of repair?

It is rare for a line to have a leak but doublecheck. Unless u have a bad flare install or connection

This post has been edited by trdproven: Sep 2, 2012 - 2:02 AM

HEY READ from the bottom of page 1 to the end of page two so you understand everything I've delt with thanks trdproven. your a real great help

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=87231&st=0

edit :

I asked the mechanic across the street he said just keep on pump and pumping for about 5 min and you should start to get pressure. I did that and vuala it worked jeeez i feel dumb well now I know. thx for all the advice.

I'll just mess with the clutch pedal a bit engagement is too far. hoping I don't have to tinker with the car for another month after I adjust the pedal once more.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 2, 2012 - 11:42 PM

yea you dont want the clutch pedal taller than the brake lol. thats good that everything worked out, Im not a big fan of promoting pumping too many times because #1 its a already the backyard way, the real way is to use a bleeder or pump but thats not a tool i want to invest in since these things are once in a blue moon. But the reason why I dont encourage it is because you can also burn out the master from continuous pumping sometimes. Let us know how it goes in the next few weeks. Monitor the liquid too from time to time, if it is blackish/brownish/dark that is worn out seals in the master.

Ive dealt with clutch to slave problems too many times even pulling out the hardline to test for hairpin leaks which is VERY rare and also even a bad clutch pedal assy. I think Ive seen all the possible scenarios with those things. But yes, I've also seen the need for strenuous pumpings rarely, and only twice, thats rare if the parts are good and new.

shoots man.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Sep 4, 2012 - 5:04 AM

>>>>yea it is above the brake pedal and this is what my fluid looks like after two days and 100 miles later... I'm going adjust the clutch pedal. Oo how I hope that the new master cylinder isn't screwed up... also how can a clutch pedal be messed up? >>>>

I don't have to buy an oem brand?? cause those are expensive ($110) and do they come with warranty?
Oh and when I installed the master and pumped it for 5 min straight I just said screw this I'm not spending any more time on this and drove off. I still haven't bled it properly for any air in the system.(afraid if I bleed it my clutch wont engage anymore)

ughh stupid photobucket isn't working or its my comp. haven't had any antivirus coverage in 2 months now.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 4, 2012 - 3:02 PM

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for the pedal breaking, sometimes the pieces break and the rod cant push in full force. how did the bleeding of the fluid react, was it full stream or was it half air half fluid?

Well I finally figured out how to adjust the length of the pedal engagement without having to UN-mount the master from the firewall. I just had to remove the cotter pin and move that rod that goes thru the pedal then I can wiggle that piece around and screw in or out the clutch master cylinder rod with my finger. I adjusted it so now engagement feels normal.





This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 5, 2012 - 1:29 PM

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thats great, yea i remember never ever having to dismount a clutch master. i assume your fluid is purple from the fluid itself not from any worn seals? does royal purple make brake fluid I dont know about? that rod earlier was probably pushing that piston too much inwards, you should be good to go.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Sep 5, 2012 - 10:11 PM