This guide is for reference only. This is how I tore down the 1MZ-FE engine over the weekend. Here is the engine when I started. I mounted it on an engine stand and went to work.

Here are a few shots so I can remember vacuum lines.














I removed the power steering pump here. there are 2 bolts holding it to the block



I took the engine cover off to show the VSVs and the fuel rails. It looks like some critter built a nest on the valve cover. There is another one on the back side of the head. I really wanted to slap the guy at the junkyard for telling me this is a good clean block.



I unplugged the spark plug wires from the coils to the rear plugs



These are the 2 spots there those wires are secured down. I just unclipped the clip and removed the 10mm bolt.



Here you see the wires going back to the rear plugs. Using a needle nose pliers you squeeze the tabs together and the mount pops off. I also removed the 2 intake manifold support bars.







Here I'm just making sure that I know where all the vacuum lines are going to the VSVs.













Here I unplugged the 3 coils from the wiring harness and moved it out of the way.



These next 2 pics are the wire going down to the oil pressure sensor and crank position sensor.





Here I'm removing the passenger side engine mount.



Here it looks like I just remove a harness ground from the intake manifold, you can also see on the left where I removed the EGR.









To get to the back injector plugs I had to remove the intake manifold. With those last injectors unplugged I was able to remove the wiring harness.



Next I started on the AC compressor. I removed the bolts holding it to the block and this bracket









Here I removed the timing belt covers. Its held on by 10mm bolts. My heavy duty impact gun was able to break the crank pulley loose. Getting it off was another story. I had to build a makeshift gear puller to get it off.





This is looking down on top of the block, Here I'm removing the lower runners of the intake manifold.





Here you can see that weird bug nest.



This is the lower intake manifold removed.







Here is the right side of the engine, this is where the thermostat is hiding. The brass sensor is the water temp sensor



Here I removed the hard water line and the thermostat.





Here I removed the water filler hard pipe and the soft water hose. You can see the 2 knock sensors here.





Finally got the crank pulley off.





Stick a small allen wrench in the timing belt tensioner and remove the tensioner.





Removed the timing belt. To get the black timing belt cover off you have to remove the cam gears. They are both the same gear except on the rear bank its on backwards. You can see the lip on the gear is swapped.







To get the cam gears off, use a wrench on these “gears” on the cams to prevent them from rotating. Use a large breaker bar on the nut on the actual cam gear. The cam gear bolt is a 17mm.













Here the cover is off, its also easier to get off the idler pulley mount off now.



I removed the cams and kept the caps in order. I also marked the shims and buckets for their location. I used the naming convention of Front Intake 1 or Front Exhaust 1







Here is a close up of the Rear bank. What I'm calling the front bank actually has an L in the casing.







I removed the front head. The head bolts are 12mm 12pt bolts and there is a single allen head bolt too.



Both heads removed



The cylinder walls, it was so dirty in this engine. I'm so glad I'm doing this rebuild.



I remove the AC mounting bracket on the block and the front engine mount.



Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley. You can see the water pump on here too.



Remove this exhaust thing. Water flows behind it, so I'm assuming its used to cool down the exhaust.







Here the water pump is removed. It was actually looking good, but I'm still going to replace it.



Looking down, next to remove is this water line block cover. I don’t know what to call it.





Once I got that thing off I flipped the engine over and removed the #2 oil pan.



Remove the oil pickup.



The # 1 oil pan is held on by 12mm bolts and a few 10mm bolts at the oil pump and rear main seal assembly.





Rear main seal assembly removed.



Oil pump removal.





Here is the first rod and piston removed. The skirt on the sides of the piston looks good. I can tell you now that the 1MZ-FE rods look about the middle in strength between a 1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-GE. They are smaller than a 5S-FE and 3S-GTE. Once I go through all my boxes, ill make a good comparison picture.





There is a small dimple on the top of the piston to indicate forward. The rod also has a similar mark, here you can see it. It’s the tab right in the middle and bottom of this rod. The other side is just round.



All the pistons and rods. Ill clean them up when I'm ready to re-assemble.



Next is get the mains out. These are 6 bolt mains. There are 2 bolts on each side and there is also a single bolt on the sides of the block. It took me a minute to figure out what those were for.



The mains are numbered so you cant mix them up. Looking at this main, the #2 that’s raised in an arrow pointing up is the actual number of the main. Not the number 2 stamped in the middle.




Crankshaft out.


Here you can see the iron inserts in the block. I think you can get away with a .020 overbore with these inserts. After that you will need something like a Darton sleeve. There is plenty of room between the cylinders for that.





Here is everything on my tables. Lots of parts in there.





I didn't take pics of the head dis-assembly but when i built everything back, i will take good pictures. I promise

Holy dirty ass engine batman... Lookin good jeff. Gonna go all out and machine everything? ARP? Stroker whattttt??

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Mar 12, 2012 - 10:43 PM

Fun - I'm along for the ride.

Looking dirty yet awesome! Good luck with the rebuild and cleaning!

no big build, ill just hone the cylinders, new rings and bearings. new gaskets. valve job. just making it a fresh new engine.

At least ARPs and a lightweight flywheel?

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Mar 13, 2012 - 6:03 PM

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At least ARPs with a lightweight flywheel and a 50-shot?

(somebody keep adding to this )

yes Fidanza flywheel, Southbend clutch. Nitrous? hhmm hadn't thought about that, sounds like fun. but i have planned on supercharging it once i get it passed the SMOG NAZIs

Needs moar cam lobe and compression with a good stand-alone ECU. Oh wait...this isn't a 2ZZ.

Gonna get a TRD or go custom?

you know me, i do everything custom!

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Would be nice to see this get a shot of nitrous...

Why no turbo?

space for the most part. Ill know more once i get it in there. i should be picking up the block and heads from the machine shop today. i just have everything hot tanked. should look brand new once i get it back

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Oooh - pics of that please

Take my word for it
Its super cramped in the engine bay
Your best bet will be to delete the a/c pump an mount the charger there or do one of those turbo setups that put the turbo at the back of the car inline with tbe exhaust

nice! I will follow this for a while.

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no way will i delete AC here in the desert. it gets over 115 here in the summer

Well id go with the exhaust mounted turbos then cuz the only other simi free space is over top the trans.
You might be able to use the trd super charger if it will cleat the hood

MR2 guys put the turbos over the top of the transmission. If there is space to twin-charge a MR2 there is room in a Celica for two turbos and a supercharger. Piping would be tight, but it's possible.

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What would that be exactly? Twin-super-turbocharged?

well i think im going to change plans. Now im going to build a hybrid 3MZ bottom end with 1MZ heads. this will allow me to get past the smog guys. they wont know its a 3MZ block. plus it will make much more HP.

The 3MZ should also be stronger no?

i dont think its much stronger, but it will make more HP

1MZ heads with port work?

i would love to have them ported. ill look into it

wow, I gotta try this one day

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Go for it man its not nearly as scary as it might look
time for the v6 to take over!!

thats right! the V6 will over power the 3S-GTE

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enlighten me on this. how would they not know?

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The blocks are so similar in design that it would take an expert to see the difference. The smog tech is mostly looking for things on or attached to the head anyway, so it would be almost miraculous if they managed to notice "somethin dont look right" with the block itself.

I removed my engine and had it sitting around for weeks before I happened upon a tiny stamp on the block that says "3s". It was a 3sfe replacement block, not the 5sfe I thought I was removing. Sure there was subtle differences that I could have noticed If I was an expert, but with all the old 5s head and accessories and parts on it... I'd have never noticed if it wasn't for that tiny stamp way down in there.