Just picked this baby up last week for 4000$ and can't wait to get started on it! It's a 1994 GT-S with just over 200000 kms on it, runs like new!

The day I bought her:




It's in pretty good shape other than a few minor rust spots that I'll be getting touched up as soon as all the snow melts, and a small dent in the hood. Also the front Toyota badge is broken, just ordered a new one from the dealer today.
Hard to see in this picture but it looks like somebody closed the hood and there was something under it and it made the dent and they tried to fix it


Some more pictures:






First "mod" haha, thought I would take off the badge while I wait for a new one but didn't notice there was 2 holes for it so I left it in (upside down )


Just put a new Alpine head unit in yesterday:


Have a 10" JL sub that I took out of my old car, will be building a box and wiring it in when I get a chance

Plans:

- TRD replica shifter knob (ORDERED)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140920873419?item=...160&vxp=mtr

- Black shift boot with red stitching

- GT-Four riser blocks (ORDERED)

- SpreeLED full car kit (ORDERED)

- White or gold wheels, thinking Rota Boost Golds:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CxD1GXhcLmY/UGdA...600/boost_2.jpg

- Possibly JDM tails

- Short ram intake

- GT-Four front end conversion

- Mesh for the front grille

- Possibly fog lights

- Clear sidemarkers and turn signals

This post has been edited by PegGTS: Apr 3, 2015 - 3:49 PM

$4,000? Good god cars are expensive up there. That aside nice buy. I say you should've just broken away the rest of the "circle" on the front badge and let it be.

yup, Winnipeg prices. for just a bit more, it would already put you in gt-four territory.
anyway, it looks like you have quite a list of mods underway, may I suggest you adding heated seats to that list? definitely worth it during the winter months.
and if you want to upgrade to leather seats, my old 95 GT-S is at International (junk yard) off of Day street. sadly the gt-four conversion and lhd projectors were totalled and most of the mods are gone.

>

Oh awesome, how hard is it to do heated seats? And could it be done with your leather seats?

Also, found a guy selling some parts on kijiji:

http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-...QAdIdZ445264503

Do you think any of these parts would be worth it, also considering I would have to paint them?

I've always been a fan of GT-Four conversions than any other aftermarket bodykits out there, but that's just me.
I was tempted to get the C-ONE kit before, but ended up going the GT-Four route.
I think the carbon fiber oem hood would go great with the white exterior.

>

I was thinking of getting one of the hoods considering I need a new one anyways. How would a carbon fiber hood hold up in the winter? It can get to around -45 degrees C around here

Also what would be a good price to offer for the carbon fiber hood? There aren't that many celicas around and it doesn't look like this guy gets too many offers on it so I'm sure I can bring him down quite a bit...would 200$ be going way too low?

Just fyi, the guy's name is keith. he's a member of the forum (kloudkicka).
if all you want is an oem hood, i have one at my parents place in wpg in mint condition but it's also red.
i've had it sitting for years and will let it go for cheap. i'm leaving for wpg thursday morning if you're interested.
but if you're after carbon fiber, i would think it's worth at least $300.

From what I can find the Seibon and VIS CF hood is $500-600 new shipped. Eh, you could try offering $200 and if you could get it for $300 that'd be good I suppose.

>

Thanks but I'm thinking going with something aftermarket, if I change my mind I'll let you know

Quick update, nothing big.
Got the parts I ordered from the dealer, the clear Tundra door lenses and a shiny new Toyota badge




Now just waiting for my SpreeLED kit and GT4 riser blocks! Then I'll probably be taking a little break for a while to collect some money haha

Made a really quick (REALLY quick) mockup of how I hope she'll look eventually haha

Not a fan of different color hoods on our cars. Idk why, but the body line looks weird with one.

Just stubbled across your progress thread, looking good so far, good meeting u and if ever u wanna save some money on the gtfour conversion lemme know, carbon fibre hood sold and for a steal I might add

looking nice! My celica was that clean when I bought it, now you got me wishing it still was. I have to look into those clear tundra lenses! What year are they from?

>

Thanks man, loving the hood it looks awesome!

Hood off!


Hood on!



(Sick whip btw Kloudkicka)


>

Pretty sure it's from a 2006 Tundra

This post has been edited by PegGTS: Apr 27, 2013 - 2:03 PM

perfect fit, niice work, so far so good with the progress, and thanks for the shout out lol, only difference now is i put the wing back on, keep it up

Just got my TRD replica shifter today, I'm diggin it!

Just bought some blaze green Plasti Dip, gonna be spraying my wheels with it while I save up for real wheels haha

Note these aren't my actual rims, just a picture from google to show the colour

Okay I tried plasti dipping the rims today and it came out looking like **** lol...anybody know why this would happen? Maybe it was too cold? Spraying too close or too thick? When the spray came out of the nozzle it came out really bubbly and not spray-like...is the nozzle maybe bad / dirty or maybe the cans are just bad?




After they dried completely

You did that so wrong...

First off, never paint your wheels on the car. 1) because you'll get overspray on the car 2) the paint will run downward because of gravity and 3) it's just a common sense type of thing.

Secondly, when painting (and your wheel is off the car), put cardboard under it so that it doesn't get on the ground and get note cards. You place the note cards in that little lip between the wheel and the tire, and they stick out the long way. This is so over spray does not get on your tire. Though it is plastidip, it's a PITA to rub it all off the tire.

Third, when you are painting correctly with the wheel on the ground, clean off the wheel with a damp rag. If it was spray paint you would do more cleaning, but plastidip sticks to anything anyway lol Anywho, you want to start off in light coats and build it up. It looks like you just went all out on that thing on the first coat, that's a big no no. It will bubble up like that if you spray it on too heavy, but yes, the coldness doesn't help too much either.

It looks like it dried pretty well though, but you should definitely go back over some of the areas that are light so that it's more even.
If I sound like a dick at all, I'm sorry, I just took a break from studying for my finals and I'm wired on caffeine pills right now lol
I hope that helps you though!

Edit: If it's coming out of the bottle like that, it's definitely too cold to spray. Shaking it up some more might help, but probably not so much in the cold.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: May 3, 2013 - 2:37 AM

To add to the good advices above me.
You should check out "dipyourcarcom" youtube and see how it's all done.
When the weather is cold it helps to put the can in hot water prior to the paint process, so when you spray the paint inside is actually warm.

Pretty much as mkernz22 Said.
Make sure its a nice day. Sunny, not hot, and not windy.
Thoroughly clean your wheel.
Do many light coats, with a light sweeping action, and give it about 20minutes between each coat.
Don't spray it on thick, or too wet.
And you should be sweet.

On that note though, 3 of my 4 nozzles turned to **** after a few sprays, started splattering out a bit because it was building up/running at the cap. Just try another.
And with the 'wheel on/off the car' is a bit of ahit and miss topic, with plastidip that is.
With plastidip you do tiny light coats, so there will be no runs or build up etc.

I just done my wheels, i took them off the car, but still layed them upright, at like a 10degree angle.
The final coat i done was when they were on the car.

So try again man, try plan it out and tae your time, and it should come out pretty sweet. It did dry alot better, so good luck next time!

^^ all the above is 100% correct. i work with plasti dip all the time where i work, I have to paint alot of things with it. Painting is a skill of paitence, you need to take your time with it a far as prepping the wheels and proper time between coats. it will take quite a few coats because of how clear the paint is but once it finished it should lay very flat and smooth and not bubbly at all. just dont spray it on to heavy, just get nice even light coverage through out the wheel until your completely covered. for the peices i have to paint it usually takes about 5-6 coats, but thats because im painting clear plastic black..

really make sure the surface is clean tho and that it isnt to cold, let the wheels sit in the sun to warm them up first before painting them. you dont have to paint them in the sun but id recommend letting them warm up in the sun and letting them dry in the sun after they are painted.

Goodluck my man!

Thanks for the advice everyone! I think what my main problem was was that the cans were way too cold. It was probably about 0 Celsius / 32 Fahrenheit when we were doing it, and I didn't realize that the cans needed to be warm before doing it. When it started coming out bubbly we just got frustrated haha and I think that's what really messed us up, we started trying all sorts of things to make it work. Spraying lights coats, thick coats, spraying far away, from close...how far away should you spray from when doing it? As far as taking the wheels off, I don't have a jack at the moment and saw a few videos from DipYourCar explaining how to do it with the wheels still on. I'm assuming I should peel it all off and start again?

If you don't like it, obviously you should be peeling it off.
Get a heater, close the garage, put your plasti in a big basin with warm water and let it is for a while. While waiting, clean them wheels good!

>

Yup will be peeling it off and redoing it this weekend since it's supposed to be a lot nicer. Only thing is, it's really tough to peel the overspray off the tires, it isn't coming off in one, it's just ripping, any tips on getting that off? I do have a heater in the garage so I'll try and keep it as warm as possible, obviously I should open the door when I'm spraying though right? I assume the fumes are pretty deadly haha

I'll put a mask and keep it closed and warm.
When dipping wheels it's easier to remove the dip from the tire when there is a good layer of it on the tire itself, not just a tiny amount of overspray.
I don't know what to say, either get to work and start cleaning it or spray just the tire and let it bond, then try to peel it.