Do you have Seafoam available in stores? If so buy a bottle of Seafoam and remove the spark plugs and pour four ounces into each cylinder and let it drain into the crankcase. This can take a few hours, check with a flashlight to make sure it has drained. Then drive it for at least 30 minutes or up to 100 miles and then change the oil. Then fill up with 20W-50. There are harsher ways of flushing, but for the first time I'd go with Seafoam since it's milder.

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In addition Id suggest rotating the engine, preferably by hand or else seafoam will spray out the sparkplug tubes, after it has had a chance to sit and then pouring more seafoam in. My typical piston ring soak is at least 24 hours with plenty of repourinv and turning the motor over. Gotta work it into all of the ring lands.

Yeah, I forgot to mention removing the EFI fuse and bumping it over a few times. By hand would be best if possible, I didn't want to dig for my bar so I used the starter. I think when I did mine I waited 24 hours just to be safe. Also a good time to do this is when you're about a quart low.

I wonder if carb cleaner would be good to use. Its cheaper than seafoam or marvel mystery oil and its much more caustic. You would definately have to change the oil immediately afterwards

Everything would probably flash rust like a son of a bitch. I'd step up to penetrating oil instead.

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Even with the seafoam or MMO I'd recommend a capful of oil into each cylinder prior to firing it up.

MMO and Seafoam is used in oil and fuel, so I don't see how it'd hurt anything.

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They are both solvents rather than lubricants. While there probably wont be any damage to the rings or cylinders in the seconds they are running "dry" on seafoam rather than oil, better to play it safe.

They're kind of both.

I tryed the piston soak and it dint work... so now i have started rebuilding a new engine I allready got most of the parts so dint se the reason why i shuldnt
Almost done whit the head, just some fine polish on the valves and im done

I will be starting to re-ring and headwork on my 96 ST. The compression check was not good on cylinder # 1 and 2. The other two were not good either. I did Piston soal twice, one with SeaFoam and second time with MMO. No luck.

Question: Does headbolts require a special socket?

Thanks in advance.

(Sorry to highjack your thread)

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No problem
i used a star shaped socket, i gues u are using the 6 edged one? if u are just dont do it, u will ruin the heads on the bolts.

Thanks. I have not opened the engine yet. I have both types of sockets but I saw on ToyotaNation a picture of a different (thinner in diameter) style used.

I am in the planning stage:

- making a list of parts/supplies I would need (spreadsheet)
- What I need to get from stealership and which one from RockAuto
- establishing a budget and
- Schedule.

I am Project Manager by trade so this is a project for me (LOL)

are u rebuilding the engine or just the head?

I will take the head off and get it checked by a machiine shop to see if any of the seals etc need to be replaced. In the meantime I will pull pistons out, clean them and install new rings. Hone the cylinders. I figured if I have gone this far, might as well take care of any potential future issues if spotted earlier.

smart move... u might aswell change all the bearings. but when u clean the head i found that pant thiner was the best thing to clean the exhaust ports whit worked like a BOSS

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Provided it's in the valve-train anyway, which hopefully it is. If not will have to remove the engine and redo the cylinder walls and pistons.

The head will get cleaned when you have it resurfaced. You need standard twelve point sockets for the head bolts. Normally 6 point sockets are recommended for hex bolts because they are less likely to round a bolt head off, but I believe a 12 point bolt head and matching socket have more surface area in contact so this is likely why toyota picked it.

You should check the clearances of the cylinder bores before you put new rings in, they will tend to become out of round in the directions the crank rotates and can develop a taper(wider at the top or bottom) from the force of the piston rod. Take measurements on the top, center and bottom of the cylinder both parallel and perpendicular with the length of the engine, if your unsure then take the block to the shop and have them check and or hone the bores.

I second checking and replacing worn rod/main bearings. Couple $s worth of plastigauge since you already have the lower end apart, money well spent. Make sure the machine shop shims the valves properly, if you provide them with the camshafts and cam bearing caps they can do this for you.



You WILL need a head gasket.

You SHOULD get-
head bolts ($20, they are torque to yeild which means they stretch and are not intended for reuse)
Full gasket set or head gasket set. It will contain all the gaskets for the engine except perhaps fuel injector orings

You COULD get-
Timing belt, its a non interference engine so you can drive it till it snaps without damaging the motor.
Water pump, while you have the motor apart its easy to replace
Oil pump, shouldnt wear but the tolerances can get out of spec, you want to oil your new motor properly right?

Im sure Im forgetting a lot but there is some info to munch on...

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Jul 10, 2014 - 5:05 PM

Bore and stroke it while you're at it.

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Yeah if you have to go to oversized pistons anyways, but is there any larger crank without grinding down the rod journals?

Actually Smoking is not such a bad thing after all.
here is a public service announcement from Big Brother.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvLg4NuqZ-A

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It was more of a tongue in cheek remark since I really don't foresee it being worth all the trouble when you'd be better off dropping in a 20 valve if you want performance from the A family of engines.

Thank You all for wonderful help and tips. This is what i lack as an experience. I have what Special_Edy mentioned. I have checked the prices of OEM from an On-line dealer and Rock Auto. I will try to go through every thing and whatever is needed will be replaced.

I have a brand new set of sockets that will be used on this operation.


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LOL. That is funny.

But abote the head bolts, i have spokent to a Toyota head mechanic and he sayd that u don need to change the head bolts, unless they are damaged or streched, there is a limit on how far they can strech.
so i will not change my head bolts. But if thay look good and no damage, just go ahead and use them again

But Edy, or box. Do i have to use oversized rings after a hone?

I always use new head bolts, you're already spending a good sum of money as it is why skimp out now?

Depends on how much has to be honed out, is it only needing resurfaced and cross-hatched or is it needing to be brought back into round? Whoever is doing the machining should be able to tell you how far over they had to go.

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the head bolts are super expensive.. around 150 usd for me here in norway

i havent looked that good at the cylinders.
focusing on the head atm
Btw whats the diference betwen the two valve seals? i got 2 diferent ones in my rebuild kit? one is kinda gold looking and the other one is just gray:P i have figured that its one type for the intake and one for the exhaust... but whish go where?

Try finding a hardware store that has a large selection of bolts, same thread and length in grade 8 is all you need.

They should be labeled in the kit, if not compare to the head.

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i might do that. hmm the head i bought dint have any seals. so this might be tricky

Try looking around the internet for information. Whoever you got the kit from, see if they sell the intake and exhaust seals separately and have pictures for comparison.