It would not hurt at all to add a couple extra oil return holes to the ring groove.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Help!! Smoking like its no tomorrow! - 6G Celicas Forums
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
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Kinda to late for that
thay are allreddy in the block
QUOTE (Bitter @ Jul 26, 2014 - 12:22 AM) 
>It would not hurt at all to add a couple extra oil return holes to the ring groove.
Kinda to late for that
thay are allreddy in the block
What size socket to use on the head bolts 12 mm or 14 mm? . I got my engine apart. So far intake and exhaust are out and cams are out.
I think the head bolts themselves are Star tool sockets
Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
I had a call in to my local Toyota dealer and they called me back to say that I can use 10mm, 12 point socket
Normally a 12 point socket allows twice as many angles to fit the socket over the bolt head, but has less surface area to grab a 6 point head, so it will often round off a highly torqued 6 point bolt.
Toyota decided on a 12 point bolt because it has significantly more surface area than a 6 point bolt head
But I believe its a 12 point 12mm socket. The cam journal bolts are 10mm (6 point)
Toyota decided on a 12 point bolt because it has significantly more surface area than a 6 point bolt head
But I believe its a 12 point 12mm socket. The cam journal bolts are 10mm (6 point)
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You have the correct awnser here
10 MM 12 point
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Btw the cam journal are 12 pont aswell
QUOTE (msk59 @ Jul 29, 2014 - 12:58 PM)
>I had a call in to my local Toyota dealer and they called me back to say that I can use 10mm, 12 point socket
You have the correct awnser here
10 MM 12 point
>
QUOTE (Special_Edy @ Jul 29, 2014 - 3:20 PM)
>Normally a 12 point socket allows twice as many angles to fit the socket over the bolt head, but has less surface area to grab a 6 point head, so it will often round off a highly torqued 6 point bolt.
Toyota decided on a 12 point bolt because it has significantly more surface area than a 6 point bolt head
But I believe its a 12 point 12mm socket. The cam journal bolts are 10mm (6 point)
Toyota decided on a 12 point bolt because it has significantly more surface area than a 6 point bolt head
But I believe its a 12 point 12mm socket. The cam journal bolts are 10mm (6 point)
Btw the cam journal are 12 pont aswell
Well: Pulled the head last night and no problems. i had a long 10mm 12 point socket. The exhaust side were torqued high it seems because they are longer than the intake.
The oil pan took the rest of the night. Those elan bolts were a pain, especially the one next to the ac compressor. End up taking the AC compressor and its bracket out to get to it. I will be replacing those bolts and they are not cheap from Toyota dealer.
Head will be taken to a machine shop to have them go over.
Pistons will be pulled tonight. In order to remember which piston goes where, I used a small punch ( a spring loaded punch from Harbor Frieght) and marked dots 1 to 4 on each piston surface. The cylinder walls looked good and the ridge on the top was non-existant. Some cross-hatched were noticed.
Sorry to highjacked your thread again. I will start a new when I download the pictures from my camera.
The oil pan took the rest of the night. Those elan bolts were a pain, especially the one next to the ac compressor. End up taking the AC compressor and its bracket out to get to it. I will be replacing those bolts and they are not cheap from Toyota dealer.
Head will be taken to a machine shop to have them go over.
Pistons will be pulled tonight. In order to remember which piston goes where, I used a small punch ( a spring loaded punch from Harbor Frieght) and marked dots 1 to 4 on each piston surface. The cylinder walls looked good and the ridge on the top was non-existant. Some cross-hatched were noticed.
Sorry to highjacked your thread again. I will start a new when I download the pictures from my camera.
>
no prob prob bro keep posting
so u all got ac in yours ? Lucky u
QUOTE (msk59 @ Jul 30, 2014 - 8:01 AM)
>Well: Pulled the head last night and no problems. i had a long 10mm 12 point socket. The exhaust side were torqued high it seems because they are longer than the intake.
The oil pan took the rest of the night. Those elan bolts were a pain, especially the one next to the ac compressor. End up taking the AC compressor and its bracket out to get to it. I will be replacing those bolts and they are not cheap from Toyota dealer.
Head will be taken to a machine shop to have them go over.
Pistons will be pulled tonight. In order to remember which piston goes where, I used a small punch ( a spring loaded punch from Harbor Frieght) and marked dots 1 to 4 on each piston surface. The cylinder walls looked good and the ridge on the top was non-existant. Some cross-hatched were noticed.
Sorry to highjacked your thread again. I will start a new when I download the pictures from my camera.
The oil pan took the rest of the night. Those elan bolts were a pain, especially the one next to the ac compressor. End up taking the AC compressor and its bracket out to get to it. I will be replacing those bolts and they are not cheap from Toyota dealer.
Head will be taken to a machine shop to have them go over.
Pistons will be pulled tonight. In order to remember which piston goes where, I used a small punch ( a spring loaded punch from Harbor Frieght) and marked dots 1 to 4 on each piston surface. The cylinder walls looked good and the ridge on the top was non-existant. Some cross-hatched were noticed.
Sorry to highjacked your thread again. I will start a new when I download the pictures from my camera.
no prob prob bro
keep posting so u all got ac in yours ? Lucky u
Yes, this car came with AC, power steering but no cruise and fogs. I got the factory fogs installed but do not have all the parts for the CC yet. Have the actuator and cable but would need the CC-ECU and some wirings.
Hmm maybe its different on the 5s and 7a, Im certain I have my old headbolts somewhere around here.
And I could of sworn the cam bolts are 6 sided on the 5s, I rounded one off
And I could of sworn the cam bolts are 6 sided on the 5s, I rounded one off
This is how she does now
Getting a good way whit taking out the engine now
And then i found this :S
And then this... What a wied person have done this?
Removed the Cat and replaced it whit this?
So i gues tomorrow the engine is out fingers X
Getting a good way whit taking out the engine now
And then i found this :S
And then this... What a wied person have done this?
Removed the Cat and replaced it whit this?
So i gues tomorrow the engine is out
fingers X
lol that looks like some good 'ole redneck Cat repair right there.
Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
sooo... The engine is out WOOP
WOOP 
So it is possible to take the engine out without taking the gearbox out. I have the head, intake, exhaust, pistons and rods and oil pan out but would now like to take the block out to check the crank bearings etc.
Always fun to clean
Washi washi
I used a greas remover called Sun tix, used to wash big truks and engines
Washi washi
I used a greas remover called Sun tix, used to wash big truks and engines
There she is.
just realised that i need a new clutch :S
just realised that i need a new clutch :S
Hey look, it's facing in the right direction now.
2001 Miata LS 5-speed
I am curious to see how ease the engine will go back and lined up with the Gearbox. Please take some photos of how you will put it back.
thanks
thanks
Piston ring
This post has been edited by Timothy: Aug 10, 2014 - 7:10 PM
This post has been edited by Timothy: Aug 10, 2014 - 7:10 PM
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Ehm. i Had to take the trany out :S it was mutch easyer to fitt the engine w/ tranny then just the engine whit the trany in place
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What abote them?
QUOTE (msk59 @ Aug 7, 2014 - 8:26 AM)
>I am curious to see how ease the engine will go back and lined up with the Gearbox. Please take some photos of how you will put it back.
thanks
thanks
Ehm. i Had to take the trany out :S it was mutch easyer to fitt the engine w/ tranny then just the engine whit the trany in place
>
QUOTE (Timothy @ Aug 10, 2014 - 8:08 PM)
>Piston ring
What abote them?
need some help again. the car strarts but when i rev it it dies at 3k rpm. any solution ?
This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Aug 18, 2014 - 1:04 PM
This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Aug 18, 2014 - 1:04 PM
Fuel issues?
Could be something with the MAP sensor, or a matter of timing.
2001 Miata LS 5-speed
it works fine when idle. only when i hit 3k rmp it starts to be the ishue. i have been thinking of both thos things.. but the timing shuld be good.
I'd check the MAP and look for any vacuum leaks.
2001 Miata LS 5-speed
culdent find anything wrong whit the MAP sensor. what else can be wrong?
I'd take a look at the distributor and ignition coil. I wouldn't think it'd be fuel related since none of that was touched, so it has to be a matter of timing/ignition.
2001 Miata LS 5-speed
It might be the rotor, checked it last week and it had some corotion on it, i cleaned it and put it back.
spoke to a toyota mechanic and he sayd it might be a ground fault. need to check this after work
This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Aug 20, 2014 - 5:03 AM
spoke to a toyota mechanic and he sayd it might be a ground fault. need to check this after work
This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Aug 20, 2014 - 5:03 AM
Ah yes, grounding points are also important.
2001 Miata LS 5-speed