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Finally brought my Supra home! - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #93452 222 posts Started by richee3
When you have a $2,500 or so transmission and it's expensive to rebuild the last thing you want to do is ruin it with fluid choice. Personally I'm on the play it safe side and stick with what was originally used team, in the T-56 instance no one has ever had a problem using DEX-III or the modified GM MTF whereas others have had issues going to RP or some other synthetic and/or gear oil. I imagine the V160 is similar in that regard, being I don't have one I've not looked too far into it but it'd be worthwhile seeing what others have experienced.

Ah, I see where you mentioned the Supra people swear by the RP. I guess it should be ok then, but I personally wouldn't trust it.

This post has been edited by Box: Aug 14, 2018 - 12:15 AM

2001 Miata LS 5-speed
Well, shiiiittt... Glad I'm upgrading my synchros to carbon units in the V160.

-Alex {](O_o)[}1993.5 Toyota Supra....with stuff........sorta broken....1998 Toyota Celica....this one, too, has stuff........broken....yeah...definitely broken....
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QUOTE (narly_charley @ Aug 13, 2018 - 6:22 AM) *
>I love seeing updates from you. I LOVED the way RL Lightweight Shockproof felt in my C60 trans in my 02' GT-S. It made driving it in subfreezing temps MUCH more enjoyable.

I wish I could do actual updates, but at this point both cars are in a decent place so it’s more just posting to keep records. I have a handy book that I always log date, time, and maintenance performed, but never any pictures or discussion. I have always used Castrol 75W-90 in the Celica’s trans but after trying Redline MT90, I’m sold on their stuff.


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QUOTE (Box @ Aug 13, 2018 - 11:07 PM) *
>I meant burning the not so cheap not so expensive Continentals.

I hear not so great things about Royal Purple, mostly that it's overpriced for sub-par oils. As far as the V160 it's in the same boat as the T-56 in that they use ATF based fluids. GM actually came out with a "MTF" for it through a service bulletin, but it's just DEX-III with additives to make it work better in a manual transmission. It works really well in the T-56, so it probably will work really well for the V160. Best part is it's like $5 a quart instead of the nonsense some of these other fluids go for *cough* Toyota *cough*. The V160 is like the Borg Warner T-56 as you DO NOT want to use synthetics, at it'll degrade the paper liners on the synchronizers and definitely don't want to use anything GL-5 or with copious amounts of sulphur as it'll eat the brass synchronizers. Personally I'd use the GM MTF since it's ATF based but has additives to work inside of a manual transmission, it's inexpensive, and it won't cause any damage. Other options being mineral based "Synchro-Mesh" with friction modifiers, like the Valvoline version that's out now and is also fairly inexpensive.

Ahhh, the pictures, that’s right! I didn’t scroll back far enough. Don’t worry, no Contis were harmed in the making of those pictures. I’m not a fan of ruining brand new tires. Burnouts always wait until the end of tire life. Those photos were made with photographer trickery and voodoo, and no Photoshop. Chee La and Mai See are good at what they do.

As for the Royal Purple, I’ve heard it go two different ways for engine oil. I’ve heard people say it worked too well, to the point that it cleaned out dirt deposits in the engine and created leaks where there were no leaks before, and I’ve seen independent tests done where RP failed miserably. However, the V160 costs a little more than $2,500... just a little (2-4x as much) more than that... so when everyone found that Redline did not work well in the V160, a few people got together and sent several different oils out for an analysis. Using the overpriced Toyota stuff as the baseline, they found that RP was the best, followed by Toyota T-IV ATF, then Castrol Transmax. I was using Transmax and although I know it works and would never cause issues, the price on the trans is such that if there’s something better available, I feel more comfortable using that. I’ll continue to avoid using RP elsewhere though.


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QUOTE (NgoFcukinWay @ Aug 14, 2018 - 7:42 AM) *
>Well, shiiiittt... Glad I'm upgrading my synchros to carbon units in the V160.

Im uPgRaDiNg tO CaRbOn SyNcHrOs

"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us touse the search button!2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage.1998 Celica GT-BEAMSSwapped.2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium.2021 GMC Sierra AT4.
U MAD? LULZ you should do the same.

no more 3rd gear grinds pho me. debating if i wanna go RP after I get this POS rebuilt with the new forks and synchros, but i'm not a big fan of paying $50/qt for that overzealous ATF fluid Toyota calls V160 go-go juice.

-Alex {](O_o)[}1993.5 Toyota Supra....with stuff........sorta broken....1998 Toyota Celica....this one, too, has stuff........broken....yeah...definitely broken....
Is the V160 really that expensive now? Geez, even more reason not to bork it. Suppose that's why everyone started using the CD009, even with the hassle of adapting you're way ahead cost wise.

With carbon synchronizers you don't have to worry about synthetics or GL-5, but being the the transmission was designed for what is more or less ATF you still wouldn't want to use anything thicker than around 5W-30 or so. If the RP hasn't caused any problems for anyone with a V160 then go with it, that or use the GM MTF as it's DEX-III with additives and friction modifiers for use in a manual trans. Ehh let's see, here it is: https://paceperformance.com/i-6485866-88861...ars-trucks.html Cheapest I can find it at the moment, perhaps cheaper on eBay. It'd be interesting to compare it to the Toyota V160 fluid though, since it's also more or less DEX-III/Toyota T-IV with additives and friction modifiers.

2001 Miata LS 5-speed
EVERYTHING relating to the MKIV Supra is expensive these days. I had my chances at a couple Supras that were kinda affordable and almost did it too. I could've just bought the damn thing, waited a few months and turn profit. lol

*1997 Celica ST - 3SGE Greytop BEAMS*1977 Celica RA29 - Classic Cruiser*2005 Matrix AWD - dedded but still hanging around like a ghost2019 Rav4 XLE Premium - Sports mode is fun.
Well except for the 2JZ anyway, since so many other cars used it as well, or anything directly shared with the SC300. That aside yeah everything is just to a point of retarded. The Supra is a good car, but when you have the ultra affordable SC300 that the Supra itself is based off I can't fathom or justify their prices. The Supra is a liftback though, so there's that, and we know liftbacks are the best form of car.

2001 Miata LS 5-speed
a lot of people are doing the T56 transmission swaps now offered by Grannas Racing down in Aussie land. Not many who I know of do the CD009 swap. Those who have done it say they are going to, and then don't really report back with a whole lot of info. At least with the MK4 anyways.

A buddy of mine spent $10K to rebuild his V160 after he exploded it doing some rolling anti-lag pulls. He had to buy a spare broken transmission to scavenge discontinued parts off of it to build his. If I ever find myself at that point in life, I'd either commit seppuku or go T56. Whichever is easiest.

-Alex {](O_o)[}1993.5 Toyota Supra....with stuff........sorta broken....1998 Toyota Celica....this one, too, has stuff........broken....yeah...definitely broken....
CD009s are cheap and can handle 600hp easy.

If I were going to build my GS, I'd drop one behind the UZ and boost it.

~bloodMoney
The V160 is a great trans but if I were to grenade mine tomorrow, I’d have a tough decision to make. Buy a used replacement for ~$6,000, have mine rebuilt by Jack’s Transmissions and hope nothing discontinued broke, or go T56. I like the V160 and the originality of the V160 in the Supra but the T56 has no shortage of parts. I was telling Jordan and Chris a few weeks ago that I met a guy with a T56 in his Supra and although I didn’t drive it, the shifter feel was blessed by the car gods. I really gotta get rid of my
‘97+ shifter.

Current project I’m working on is to get the audio system up to par. The standard route for installing a head unit bypasses the factory amp, which kills the factory sub (I mean “sub.” It’s a 5x7 speaker in the hatch.) I replaced that with a Hertz Audio speaker a while back but that’s where that project ended. This weekend I’m going to the junkyard to steal some plugs and wires out of a few cars so I can modify my harness and get the “sub” working again. I have a JL Audio amp powering the MB Quart front door speakers, head unit powering the stock rears, and the factory amp will be able to send all like 100 Watts it has to the Hertz “sub” in the trunk. The sub won’t do much but a tiny little bit of bass but it’ll help. Also looking at some cheap MB Quart speakers for the back seat which will also be powered by the JL amp just to even things out.

"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us touse the search button!2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage.1998 Celica GT-BEAMSSwapped.2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium.2021 GMC Sierra AT4.
I need to hook you up with my friend Ryan, he's an unconventional car audio wizard who doens't play by the rules.

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
The T-56 is a nice transmission, at least the Borg Warner ones anyway. I didn't care for the Tremec one in that GTO I tested. Allegedly they're good for 450 ft lbs stock, aftermarket you can get over 1,000 ft lbs these days I believe. I hear of people using the T-56, CD009, and R154. Though the R154 feels like a truck transmission, more or less because it was.

Car audio the sky is the limit. Should go with a Clarion digital audio setup, cause balla Supra.

2001 Miata LS 5-speed