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You need a drop.

only if the bass does.

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damn... I was too late for that one.



looks good. the sticker throws off your whole color scheme, I guess you're gonna have to paint your poopra red now. *gross*

Red and green=Christmas.

YOU GUYS ARE BIG MEAN BULLIES!

Decals are staying though.

I was just pointing out colour coordination, I am not the mean.

OMG OMG LOOK AT THE NEW SUPRA! RICHEE WAS RIGHT ALL THESE YEARS!

Uhhhhh.... yeah, see, I knew it! LOL at the mkIV wheels on it. How to keep Supra guys happy: ignore the last 25+ years of technology and innovation, and just build exactly the same car.

Side note: so far I am very happy with the Continentals. I’ve only got about 50 miles on them so far but they are smooth and quiet.

Ignoring progress is what made the Mustang great for so many years.

It's a Photoshop, sorry

Can’t keep up with Matt’s MR2 thread, some quality work going on over in that thread. I’ve been driven the Supra less than 250 miles since September. Not for any reason in particular, just didn’t drive it at all over the winter and now that it’s summer, I just don’t trust the number of idiots on the road. But I did recently debadge the car, so there’s that.




Just kidding, I couldn’t bring myself to do it. I had to replace the old Supra Turbo badge. It was aging and looked like poop.





Over the weekend I decided to try my hand at ceramic coating with some tips and advice from Alex. Not as glossy as wax, but I can’t argue with the protection of ceramic coating, and I can wax over it to get a deep shine.






The car has several imperfections in the 21 year old paint that I hate sealing in, but they cannot be fixed without fresh paint. We had a visit from some very talented photographers last month that managed to make the car look great anyway!







Huge thanks to Chee La and Mai See of msxphotos for these pictures!

*drooling*

A long enough burnout for three poses...BA.

More like... let me go count.

Okay, I’m back. It’s 88 pictures. To be fair it was three “burnouts.” But I gotta give it to Chee La and Mai See, they work hard to make every picture count.

i think you blew a headgasket....

If you can, pick up some hydrosilex for the ceramic coating instead of doing wax. Once the car's coated, wax really won't do anything anyways but get wasted. Save it for the Celica or the 4Runner or yourself. If you have some left over, try to coat your wheels so it'll be easier to clean off the brake dust.

Since you have the ceramic coating on it already, just hit it with some glaze for the gloss. I like the Meguirs bird **** glaze, but I think it's mostly for single stage.

dude, that last pic. the smoke is coming from me. You see how fast my feet were moving! 2jz ain't got **** on me!
Glad to be a part of that epic shoot. Fun times!

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Dat 7M lyfe! What really happened there was the wind had picked up and was blowing some of the smoke away. Chee La had to go running after it to catch it and bring it back for the picture. He succeeded. We coated the wheels after we finished with the car. Hopefully it sticks to the lip pretty well since it isn’t painted. I’ll look into hydrosilex shortly, never heard of it before.


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I have a Chemical Guys glaze at home that I hardly ever use. I’ll have to give it a try. It can’t hurt anything for sure!


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Pretty sure I heard some two step from those feet!

The Meg's bird **** did wonders WONDERS for my single stage black on the Celica, turned it deep black again. For 2 stage with clear (which is any metallic or pearl) it won't be as amazing but any glaze can sure add some depth and dimensionality back to paint that's got that shallow shine. Shallow shine is hard to describe but it's when the paint is sure glossy but there's no deep richness to the color, black and dark colors should look dark even in the sun and even when reflecting other things, shallow shine is a lack of that character. I'm sure there's a technical term and I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.

Bird**** is Meguiars #7 (M07 now) Show Car Glaze, it's like paint restoration in a bottle for old single stage, especially antiques. Has zero abrasives, smells terrible, just absolutely awful smelling, works so good, hard to work with and remove though, takes A LOT of hand work, you'll have some burly arms when done.
http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/pr...car-glaze-16oz/


How bad was the CQ to work with? I've been curious about those coatings, is it hand applicable or is machine needed. That 3M ultra fine cut looks like nice stuff too, I might need to give it a spin. I've decided that I'm going to finally get a REAL buffer this year and learn me some proper technique on the Mazda since it's got lots of stuff to fix and who cares if I fudge it up a little bit.

Also, congrats on the Supra, is it a boy or a girl?

This post has been edited by Bitter: Jul 3, 2018 - 6:21 PM

The CQuartz is super easy to work with. If you can properly detail a car (and I know you can) it’s a walk in the park. It came with a little sponge block and some microsuede applicators to apply it, and I used my own microfiber towels to remove it. It was as simple as wrap the microsuede around the applicator block, put a few drops on the applicator, and wipe on the car. A few drops go a long way. It dries for just a couple of minutes, then wipe off like wax. The microfiber you use to remove it needs to be thrown out because the ceramic coat will dry and crystallize in it. It’s easy to tell where you have applied it and see any spots you missed, and it’s very easy to apply accurately so you don’t get any on any trim or glass where you don’t want it. Removing it is about like removing wax that a noob applied in direct sunlight way too thick, it takes a little effort but not terrible. I used the second half of my bottle to coat the Celica today, and even on the black paint it still wasn’t terrible to remove and make it spotless.

I’ve got six different buffing and polishing compounds. Four are Chemical Guys and they do alright. They’re great for a beginner or a weekend hobbyist. I’ve always preferred the 3M compounds though. I use a Torq buffer and pads which again, does the job, but the Milwaukee 10” buffer I have will wipe the floor with the Torq buffer. I don’t have any pads for the Milwaukee buffer though, so it’s a bit useless at the moment.

Someone has money to burn, literally.

Richee That is one good looking car. Very good pictures. For sure candidate for the 2019 calendar.

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You mean about the buffing and polishing compounds? Four of the six came with the buffer and really aren’t that good. An amateur detailer/weekend hobbyist that has never used a more expensive compound would be happy with them but the two 3M compounds I have are significantly better products. I really need to get some pads for my bigger buffer, it’s a much better buffer than my little Torq buffer.


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Thanks! It cleans up for pictures but it’s got some flaws just like any 21 year old car. I’d like to pick up a set of new headlights and dash before they’re discontinued but I have a hard time justifying the price. At the same time, floor mats for these cars are $500+ these days and I know the headlights and dash will follow suit once they are fully discontinued. Those that have them can ask whatever price they want for them. Sad times for old Toyotas.


More record keeping than progress again, the odometer is just shy of 95,000 miles. Around 91,500, I changed the trans and diff fluid. Today, I changed them again as well as the engine oil. Although there was no real need to swap the fluids out, I’m prepping the car for the trip to Vegas next month and I put better fluids in it today.



Royal Purple Synchromax for the trans and Redline Shockproof for the diff. After trying Redline MT90 in the Celica’s trans, I’m sold on their products. It definitely lived up to the reputation. Of course, reading on Supraforums, Shockproof Heavy comes highly recommended for the diff. Not for any reason in particular that I’ve found, just that everyone recommends it. As for the trans, Redline MT90 contains too much shift seal additive that causes the seams to swell, so it’s no good for the V160. Toyota offers a V160 specific fluid but at $55 per pint, it’s simply too much money to be worthwhile for me. There’s nothing special about it, it’s just glorified ATF. Of course some diehard enthusiasts still swear that it’s the only option for this trans but for the rest of us, Synchromax works perfectly, arguably even better, for a fraction of the price. As for the engine oil, nothing special there. It was last changed in July 2016 and I’m still not up to my mileage to change it, but it’s been in the car for two years and I’m not making the trip to Vegas on old oil.

^^In b4 Box points out that changing trans and diff fluid after 3,500 miles is burning money.

Tomorrow I may go check out a set of new speakers for the rear. I have a JL amp powering a set of MB Quart speakers in the front, but still factory speakers running off of the head unit in the rear. A local place is having a sale so maybe I’ll pick something up, but not likely.

Is that RP any good? I have some MaxGear laying around but never used it because the stuff does not have a good rep for Miata trannies.

It’s supposed to be excellent in the V160. Smoother shifting and quieter (although the only way to make this Getrag any quieter is to go deaf.) I haven’t driven with it yet since I still have an intercooler pipe out of the car waiting on some paint to dry, but I have high hopes. I’ve heard negative things about RP in the past but Supra guys seem to swear by this stuff so I’ll give it a shot. I’m not familiar with Maxgear though. If Miata guys say it’s no good in the trans, they may very well be right, just the same as I can’t use Redline MT90 in the Supra’s trans but the S54 in the Celica loves it.

lemme know how that RP works for you. Cuz once I get my tranny rebuilt, i'm going to have to figure out a cheaper alternative to the V160 jizz juice.

I actually just got back from a short drive about an hour ago. Shifting is marginally smoother, but it’s such a narrow margin that it could easily only be in my head. However, the trans is actually much quieter despite my earlier claim of needing to go deaf in order to silence the trans. Only drove about two miles but so far I’m happy with it. Local Supra BBQ is coming up in a few weeks so I’ll put a few more miles on the car and get it up to highway speed, but the drive to Vegas will be the real test.

I love seeing updates from you. I LOVED the way RL Lightweight Shockproof felt in my C60 trans in my 02' GT-S. It made driving it in subfreezing temps MUCH more enjoyable.

A 50/50 blend of the OE Mercon ATF and LWSP resolved a lot of shifting issues when hot, the extra 'stick' of the LWSP helped the synchro's to grab and spin up so they'd work but didn't kill it from working in cold weather.

I meant burning the not so cheap not so expensive Continentals.

I hear not so great things about Royal Purple, mostly that it's overpriced for sub-par oils. As far as the V160 it's in the same boat as the T-56 in that they use ATF based fluids. GM actually came out with a "MTF" for it through a service bulletin, but it's just DEX-III with additives to make it work better in a manual transmission. It works really well in the T-56, so it probably will work really well for the V160. Best part is it's like $5 a quart instead of the nonsense some of these other fluids go for *cough* Toyota *cough*. The V160 is like the Borg Warner T-56 as you DO NOT want to use synthetics, at it'll degrade the paper liners on the synchronizers and definitely don't want to use anything GL-5 or with copious amounts of sulphur as it'll eat the brass synchronizers. Personally I'd use the GM MTF since it's ATF based but has additives to work inside of a manual transmission, it's inexpensive, and it won't cause any damage. Other options being mineral based "Synchro-Mesh" with friction modifiers, like the Valvoline version that's out now and is also fairly inexpensive.