Got this off a 97 3sfe rav4. I'm going to customize a intake manifold body for it at my work(custom sheet metal shop). this is the starting process should look close to a beams intake when in done. Ill be using 0.100" 5052 aluminum for the body with a machined 0.250" T6 aluminum flange. I will most likely make 2 when i take the intake form my 95 GT off. So I'll have one for sale then. Any thoughts??

This post has been edited by doory100: Oct 6, 2014 - 7:40 PM

nice. Should use a 1mzfe dual throttle body for this.

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what car would that be off ?? that would be sick!! Would it work??


This post has been edited by doory100: Oct 6, 2014 - 7:40 PM

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After reading this article on toyotanation.com I will be incorperating the 1MZ-FE throttle body and flange into my project since its plug and play and are easily accesable at the kenny-u-pull lot in Ottawa. $15 im just going to hack off the flange and TB with a saw in one shot !! (if I can)
here is the link if anyone is interested:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-...-1mz-fe-tb.html

The one youll have for sale, Im interested. I'd like the option of keeping it flangeless wiyh a spot to weld on a flange, so I can weld a TB of my choosing.

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what TB were you thinking of I might be interested? so far the 1zm-fe I know will work but I heard the mustang TB is a option.

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In my case I have a standalone ECU so anything that fits will work. The one I can find cheapest is the one I'd buy, in my case. Probably a VW VR6 TB or something like that, since I have a friend with a junkyard's worth of spare VW parts.

Hell if your gonna go 1mz tb
maybe pick one up from a later model that had dual throttle bodys

I don't see the use of putting a dual TB on a 4cylinder engine lol & especially a 5s. I understand the purpose of it in the 1mz manifold, but that's a v6.

I found both and the dual TB looks like its going to be a mess to hook up plus wouldn't I need two throttle cables? One on the front and on on the back of the manifold? I haven't removed them yet so I'm not sure how they will work with my setup.

This post has been edited by doory100: Oct 15, 2014 - 5:36 PM

Its one cable actuator which connects internally to both throttle bodies. You will have to wire a WOT switch because the TPS is 3 wire vs 4 wire of the 5s.

Pending your plans the dual tb setup might be more than you really need.
if your going to boost it tho might be worth while

It looks like i wont have room since im increasing the L W and H of the intake itself.

You know just hacking a plenum on some runners isn't going to net awesome gains. You need to calculate the plenum volume for the targeted RPM and have runners of a tuned length to match, tuned to 2nd order harmonics if possible for the target RPM. That's why you see 30whp gains from an intake manifold on a 2ZZ or Honda's. Also because those heads have the potential to use the air being supplied, but just better tuned intake will help but probably not as dramatically as you'd hope. The stock 5S manifold is a 3rd order manifold I believe and tuned for low to mid engine speeds to provide torque, the head is also suited to this design. Don't try to fight the head, work with it. You can see a nice increase in torque with the right volume and runner length.

http://www.schmidtmotorworks.com/engine_designer.html Software like that can help make an initial design.
http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/engin...take-manifolds/ this outlines some of the design principles and their effects.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Oct 16, 2014 - 9:54 PM

Maybe your right but I'm gonna do it anyway. I'm just going to increase the size and angles of the intake. I got the idea from the racer x web site. The replenum manifold has what looks like the stock runners.
http://www.racerxfabrication.com/products/...ica/intake.html

This post has been edited by doory100: Oct 17, 2014 - 9:33 PM

Well that's why you're experimenting, be interesting to see how it turns out. Worse case you loose power and it's back to the drawing board, you can't really break anything playing around with this. Obviously tuning after installation would be ideal to realize any gains to their fullest.

Just changing the plenum volume will have an impact, the 5S plenum is very small (and for good reason as outlined in the article).

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What article is that?

the second link in my post with two links. the plenum volume is tiny to keep air velocity high at low RPM for best torque due to the head's low flow. a bigger plenum volume at low rpm with a low flowing head will cause a loss in power since the air will be stagnant and have to be literally sucked into the engine (meaning you end up with less air in the cylinder) instead of the ideal situation where air is a constantly moving column and the timing of the movement of the column of air hitting the valve has the valve opening before it rebounds off and looses it's energy and becomes a stationary mass of air. If you blow down a long pipe you can feel more air being pulled into pipe after your initial 'pulse' is sent down it, the whole column of air is now moving, the intake and runners do a similar think and that's the driving force behind exhaust scavenging. Those intakes on that racerx page are for forced induction which has less of an issue with intake tuning since the air being forced into the engine, it doesn't matter if you have the wrong plenum volume or runner length once the turbo is making boost, it's more just that all the cylinders are seeing an equal amount of air.

I'm willing to bet just putting a bigger plenum on the stock manifold runners will get you a loss in low RPM torque and a very very slight gain at higher RPM, but not enough to offset the loss. I'd love to see a back to back series of dyno's to compare and confirm my theory.

mrturrari did a good intake for his MR2 on mr2oc.com And I got way more eqipment at my disposal, like a 35 ton 20 turrent NC Stripit punch press (witch I run) fully auomated CAD SMP software. 8' Amada 50 ton NC break press (witch i can also run), A kick ass tig welder. And access to powder coating.
I was thinking of doing the mandrel bent runners with velocity stacks but I'm cheap and can't find any where that does mandrel pipe bending but I haven't looked all that hard.. Cars in the garage till spring so I'll have plenty of time to do the intake. Just picked up the 1z V6 TB today for $20

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=357056

This post has been edited by doory100: Oct 18, 2014 - 7:06 PM

Is the engine all stock?

I have to do the head gasket and when I'm in there I am shaving the head, a port polish, apexi neo AFR, wideband O2 sensor and delta cams. The car currently has a CAI and 4-1 ebay headers plus a hollow cat and a DC sport muffler.

out of curiosity what would the affect of having a TB on either end of the intake Manifold have?

Having one TB at each end or just switching ends? Switching ends wouldn't really have any affect I'm aware of, I'm not sure about having one at each end with one plenum, you'd probably want to have the plenum split in the middle to make effectively two tuned intakes. You'd get more even air distribution I'd imagine.

With those mods, yes a custom built intake will make a difference, just look up some of the math involved and figure the right plenum volume, runner volume, and runner length to hopefully hit your target RPM. I was assuming this was going on a bone stock 5S, my bad.

Splitting them up would be pretty sick! Sky's the limit...

I've even seen race engines with unequal length velocity stacks (ITB) to spread out the engine's power peak, assuming the exhaust runners are all equal length. Velocity stacks need to be matched to the cylinder exhaust runner length if the exhaust runners are not all equal length. It's not as simple as it all sounds, you can get quite nit picky technical and doing so usually nets the best power gains.

I just want better gains I'm not out to win a tittle or anything.

Best gains come from proper design.

Obviously.

Yes, so no sense just hacking some stuff together and spending all the time to make it and get it leak free to find out you screwed up the plenum volume or runner length or both and have actually lost power. The stock 5S runners are very narrow, I know it's a pain but see about getting some mandrel bent aluminum tube or something and making fatter runners, ideally you want them to taper to the cylinders to compress the air column some so it 'pops' into the chamber when the valve opens and has a good turbulence and swirl to mix the A/F thoroughly for complete combustion and knock resistance.




Funny thing is, I don't even do this stuff or build this stuff, I've just learned this reading way too much and researching about things that interest me. If you do this right you can bolt on some nice gains with the rest of the porting and cams and see some good flow numbers. Remember to leave about a 1mm anti reversion lip on the bottom of the exhaust ports.
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http://www.custom-car.us/exhaust/header.aspx quick dirty explanation of things.

yes but isn't the the intake flange the same width as the intake ports on the head?

The ports in the head and the ports on the manifold probably match somewhat closely on the intake, but you may be surprised when you lay the gasket over both to see that the metal overlaps the gasket noticeably. I port matched the exhaust manifold on my 2ZZ to the exhaust gasket which left an anti-reversion lip all the way around the port on the head (I didn't touch the head). The 2ZZ in stock trim is a fairly healthy breather, even without anything gasket matched. The 5S is likely similar on the intake and exhaust. My 7A exhaust ports eclipsed the gasket a fair amount as well...easier to cast things a little small I guess.

If you're hogging out the ports in the head, go as big as the gasket openings then port the runners to match, however cast runners like that are very rough inside and there are often 'nodules' of aluminum sticking up and areas of severe roughness that hurt flow more than you think. You should get a flexible shaft and some flap wheels and get up in there and smooth it and hog it out some.