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88 Alltrac - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #94052 84 posts Started by mkernz22
Can add 'stripper' to your resume.

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
>
QUOTE (Bitter @ Jul 20, 2015 - 12:20 AM) *
>Can add 'stripper' to your resume.


I probably should wink.gif



This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 13, 2015 - 9:02 PM
Hey! So it's been a while...

This is what eventually happened to the parts car. Would have loved to cut the whole thing apart and save all of it if... Only if I had my own place.. kindasad.gif


Haven't done a whole bunch with it lately cause my daily has been a priority.
I think I finally addressed my semi overheating issue. The thermostat seemed corroded (right one) when I took it out, the turbo coolant return line had a lot of FIPG clogging it up as well as that line had a nice dent in it so both of those really restricted the coolant to pass through it.



Didn't have a gasket for the outlet so I had to put FIPG back on there, but more carefully this time so it doesn't clog it.
Hopefully getting everything back together in the next week to see how it does after replacing these parts.

I also went to figure out the aftermarket temperature gauge wiring and realized they had it wired to a temp switch and not a temp sensor, at least that's what I believe. So I wired it into the temp sensor that the stock gauge gets signal from, as well as found out that the oil pressure wire was plugged into the temp sensor and nothing was plugged into the oil pressure sensor (Found the temperature wire when I was digging around). That would explain why the oil pressure gauge would always max out when warmed up and why the temp gauge never worked. Hopefully, that is all fixed now. We shall see smile.gif

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 13, 2015 - 9:03 PM
Going to be taking the car out for a drive tomorrow to see how everything is holding up and to find out if my issues are solved.
Got distracted from doing school work today and ended up putting the front end back together. I've had it apart for more than half a year so it's nice to have it back together.
Now to put the side extension back on and the lower grille between the fog lights.



This post has been edited by mkernz22: Oct 20, 2015 - 8:14 PM
Skirts are back on.

Almost fixed the coolant issue, well the overheating is gone now so the new t-stat must have done it.
Steam was coming from under the W2A cooler, took that off and found the coolant line for the throttle body was leaking because the clamp wasn't fully tightened... mad.gif
Put some heat deflection tape under the W2A while I was at it.
Then, I just have to use Teflon tape on the radiator drain plug because the FIPG melted away and caused it to slightly leak again. Easy fix though.

Otherwise, she's doing pretty good and pulling nicely. At a steady 12psi for now.
http://vid156.photobucket.com/albums/t13/m...zpscfvx002a.mp4
Just in time for Winter shenanigans. tongue.gif

2001 Miata LS 5-speed
>
QUOTE (Box @ Oct 29, 2015 - 4:41 AM) *
>Just in time for Winter shenanigans. tongue.gif


She's not really going to be outside that much. Maybe a few times at night during some snow storms hooning around the neighborhood, but otherwise she'll be in the garage.
Probably going to start going through the interior wiring over the winter and pulling out a lot of the systems that I won't be using, like the ABS, W2A pump (on it's own switch), A/C (debating), and some of the audio stuff.
Purchased some JDM post face side vents for her. Was looking for some preface black ones, but the lines will match up better since I have post face tails smile.gif

Picture as an example
So vents should be here today and I also bought a euro plate holder cause it was cheap.

Still having an issue with the coolant system cause it likes to boil and you can really hear it once the car is turned off. At this point I believe it's the radiator so I will be replacing it with an OEM one that I have. At the same time, I'll be wrapping the DP this winter, removing the A/C components, wiring the OEM fan and an aftermarket fan to run full time since I don't believe the oem one is kicking in at all. Will be getting hood spacers as well as new aero lock thingies for the hood. Last, but not least, I will hopefully get around to changing out the radiator support and welding the good one in there.

Other than that, I may change out the BOV to one of the Blitz ones I have to make sure it works.
Resealing the PS quarter window, hatch, and possibly the windshield.
Come the spring, I'll start doing over the seam seals on the interior.

Pictures to come as I get stuff done.
Finally got my hands on one of these. So hard to find...
And I also bought one, about a month or two ago, that came off a Corolla that says "toyota alltrac", but doesn't fit properly on the front grille.


Stupid shenanigans laugh.gif


Next thing I'm getting is an underbrace for the front.
Will be swapping the radiator out this week, or today.
Oh and this too. I think it makes the a$$ look wider biggrin.gif

Euro plate holder vs USDM.




Does make it look wider!

Looking good man!

SPYRO|DARKSPYRO|CYRIL
I'm a fan of the euro plate holder.

my st205 swapandour Beams swap
looks great

Learned a lot in 10 years...I hardly log in anymore, last loginToday Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOLIf you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in2grfe Swapped...Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.
it's coming together real nice.

*1997 Celica ST - 3SGE Greytop BEAMS*1977 Celica RA29 - Classic Cruiser*2005 Matrix AWD - dedded but still hanging around like a ghost2019 Rav4 XLE Premium - Sports mode is fun.
i envy you, in a good way, love the car

Learned a lot in 10 years...I hardly log in anymore, last loginToday Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOLIf you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in2grfe Swapped...Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.
>
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Jan 30, 2016 - 11:06 PM) *
>i envy you, in a good way, love the car


Thank you, I do appreciate it!


Little update, almost done pulling the A/C system. Need to weigh it all up once out to document the weight I shaved.

Car has been in my garage for a week or so now and I realized that it's leaking coolant, a good amount cause the floor is covered. mad.gif It's somewhere around the water neck area so I'm going to have to tear that area apart now and go over every line, and re-clamp or replace them, for the peace of mind cause I'm getting sick of this whole coolant BS and I want it all out of the way in one shot. That's my main issue. The coolant bubbling from air getting in and it slightly overheating. It's the main thing that's holding me back from being able to drive it. Otherwise, it's fairly fine besides the massive amounts of internal and external body work I want to do to her.

...and tires. Need tires too. and new aero catch locks.

Just too much and too little money right now frown.gif
>
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jan 31, 2016 - 1:14 AM) *
>Little update, almost done pulling the A/C system. Need to weigh it all up once out to document the weight I shaved.

Car has been in my garage for a week or so now and I realized that it's leaking coolant, a good amount cause the floor is covered. mad.gif
It's somewhere around the water neck area so I'm going to have to tear that area apart now and go over every line, and re-clamp or replace them,

Just too much and too little money right now frown.gif


Why pull the AC ? It is Cool to have in the summer, and even in the winter it can defrost the windshield.
Pulling the AC is tricky in a ST165, The AC fan controller under the dash controls BOTH the AC and radiator fan.
I think one or both will run constant if you pull stuff. Been a while since I looked at the electrical manual.
The relays and sensors are a nightmare to figure out. There is a water temp sensor in the radiator, not a
switch. Even a Toyota tech knew That one.

Coolant leaks are usually easy to find ? Hope yours is cheap to fix.

Best of luck on the project. I still miss my ST165, long sold now. :-(
But they are a project to keep on the road now.

Hope your budget is pretty Big.

Regards
>
QUOTE (GMan @ Feb 1, 2016 - 5:45 PM) *
>>
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jan 31, 2016 - 1:14 AM) *
>Little update, almost done pulling the A/C system. Need to weigh it all up once out to document the weight I shaved.

Car has been in my garage for a week or so now and I realized that it's leaking coolant, a good amount cause the floor is covered. mad.gif
It's somewhere around the water neck area so I'm going to have to tear that area apart now and go over every line, and re-clamp or replace them,

Just too much and too little money right now frown.gif


Why pull the AC ? It is Cool to have in the summer, and even in the winter it can defrost the windshield.
Pulling the AC is tricky in a ST165, The AC fan controller under the dash controls BOTH the AC and radiator fan.
I think one or both will run constant if you pull stuff. Been a while since I looked at the electrical manual.
The relays and sensors are a nightmare to figure out. There is a water temp sensor in the radiator, not a
switch. Even a Toyota tech knew That one.

Coolant leaks are usually easy to find ? Hope yours is cheap to fix.

Best of luck on the project. I still miss my ST165, long sold now. :-(
But they are a project to keep on the road now.

Hope your budget is pretty Big.

Regards


Becauseracecar. That's why.

I don't even use A/C in my daily driver during the summer. I never had it after I had gotten into an accident with my old 6th gen so I got used to not having it for 5ish years. Now, I barely use it on my new one.
Regardless, it's a decent weight savings.

I only have one radiator fan on the front side, which doesn't turn on. The slim fan on the engine side that the PO installed was warped so it drew a ton of power and I tossed it. I'm going to hard wire the fans in there so they're hooked up to a relay with a toggle switch, that way I have control over them. One per switch/relay.

As for the coolant leak, I think it's just a hose that either needs to be replaced or a clamp that needs tightening. It's just under the intake and W2A coolant lines so it'll take a bit of time to get the stuff out to access it.
Why not just use the OEM fan switch to flip the relay to run both fans? You can still wire an over-ride switch if you want to run them manually. There should be a switch in or near the thermostat housing, single wire that ground when hot (I think). There's a 2 wire for the computer as well. Might be two single wire, one switch and one thermistor for the gauge. Not 100% on an 88.

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
>
QUOTE (Bitter @ Feb 1, 2016 - 8:26 PM) *
>Why not just use the OEM fan switch to flip the relay to run both fans? You can still wire an over-ride switch if you want to run them manually. There should be a switch in or near the thermostat housing, single wire that ground when hot (I think). There's a 2 wire for the computer as well. Might be two single wire, one switch and one thermistor for the gauge. Not 100% on an 88.


There's a two wire sensor that's in the radiator. Other than that, there's nothing by the thermostat housing.

The OEM fan doesn't turn on at all though. That's one of my other issues and why I want to wire my own relays with a switch.
This was 3 other people's project and I'm the one that's going through and figuring this stuff out now.



Little update.
There also has been oil soaking through one of the rubber lines after the catch can, or at least I think, because nothing else is coated with it.
Got the radiator out today, there's oil on the block under the weird oil cooler the gen1 has so I have to pull the turbo and get all new crush washers for the cooler bolts and new gaskets for the turbo lines.
There's just so much stupid little stuff to do to try and get no leaks. I may just tear down most of the bay and put everything back together. It's the only way that I can see myself doing it right and making sure everything is 100% good to go.
ugh..
Least I have time. That I'm thankful for. Money, not so much.
Ok, I was thinking of the later engines and the A series. The two wire switch in the radiator I think is a temp switch. Put a meter across it and toss it in boiling water, it should close around 190-200F. You can use that to ground the relay to turn the fans on with your own wiring. Use a good water proof relay and socket though! Something like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-sets-Waterproof-...PwAAOSw~gRVzdiw

You can get them with the wires already on for a couple dollars more.

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
>
QUOTE (Bitter @ Feb 1, 2016 - 10:53 PM) *
>Ok, I was thinking of the later engines and the A series. The two wire switch in the radiator I think is a temp switch. Put a meter across it and toss it in boiling water, it should close around 190-200F. You can use that to ground the relay to turn the fans on with your own wiring. Use a good water proof relay and socket though! Something like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-sets-Waterproof-...PwAAOSw~gRVzdiw

You can get them with the wires already on for a couple dollars more.


That's actually not a bad idea, and I'll probably get a few with the wires already on since it saves me time with having to put the whole thing together.
I'm most likely going to make a switch panel below the radio, if I keep the radio. I already have the IC pump on it's own relay and switch so I might as well make a master panel.
Heck, you could put a bung with a sensor in the intake tract post core and have that run the IC pump through a relay or PWM. If you can't tell, I like automation. Just need to know how many amps the pump pulls then you can pick a controller with settings to vary the pump flow based on air intake temp or a simple off/on controller to turn the pump on at XX temp and off at XX temp. And of course, you can still have full manual control too with a simple toggle.

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Yeahh...that's too much work for now lol
Toggle switch is fine for the time being.

Found the coolant leak, it was actually a line from the W2A system, which I'm reworking anyway because I have a ST205 heat exchanger to put on it.
Just a mock for now, but it fits with the stock fogs. Just have to move the power steering cooler, also have to mount up the transmission cooler I have, and eventually get an oil cooler.
The lines will be a little funky for it, but I can make it work. Luckily I have one of the OEM lines for this HE and it has a nice 90 degree bend in it thumbsup.gif
As you can see in the pictures, I need to make some custom brackets for it, but it does line up perfect with the two holes the A/C condenser bolted it. The bottom mounts on it need a custom bent bracket, which shouldn't be too hard to create.






This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 3, 2016 - 12:07 AM
Woo, I just got some more parts thanks to Dustin and Manny!

-ST205 W2A Pump
-ST205 Power steering cooler
-Another ST205 transmission cooler, bit better condition than the other one I have
-Last, but not least, a bunch of fittings and an oil filter relocation kit.

I'll get some pictures up tomorrow.

Just need to swap my radiator support, figure out the brackets, and get a few more fittings before I can start putting it all back together.
The hardest part is really just going to be figuring out the brackets and the expensive part is all those damn fittings.. mad.gif

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 10, 2016 - 12:21 AM
Well I f*cked up the 205 power steering cooler while trying to bend it with a hand held bender. It slipped and kinked one of the lines so I might be tossing that out now, unless I cut it down to after the kinks. Does it matter if the pipe has that lip on it? I'm just not sure if it'll leak or not without it.

Sort of came up with a way to mount the 205 HE. Cut the bottom brackets off, flipped it, and the two top brackets line up perfectly with the outer fog light mounts. Going to upgrade to aftermarket fogs cause both of my oem sets are pretty rough.. I'll just make a bracket off the old bracket to mount whatever fog lights I get.

Now comes the challenge of plumbing it all together.



Mock mount for the transmission cooler, still not exactly sure where I'm going to put it.


Also thinking about getting an oil cooler in there too, but that's the last of my worries.
W2A first, then PS cooler, trans cooler, and finally oil cooler.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 26, 2016 - 2:33 PM
Obviously Toyota put on a trans cooler for a reason, but I'd think an engine oil cooler would be more beneficial(especially being turbocharged) over a cooler for a manual transmission?

2001 Miata LS 5-speed
>
QUOTE (Box @ Feb 26, 2016 - 4:15 PM) *
>Obviously Toyota put on a trans cooler for a reason, but I'd think an engine oil cooler would be more beneficial(especially being turbocharged) over a cooler for a manual transmission?


Yeaaahhh, but its the most expensive part of it so I'm saving it till last. **Notice how I said last of my worries instead of least tongue.gif
It might end up being very last cause I have to pull the turbo, replace the external gaskets on it, run a new braided feed and return line, and get new crush washers on the engine oil cooler. There's oil leaking somewhere near there on the block :angry:

Close to being done with the W2A setup though biggrin.gif
Only a letter off. tongue.gif

2001 Miata LS 5-speed