So I bought $100 in fittings from Summit, which I can now finish the transmission cooler and the power steering cooler. Just need to make mounting brackets.

And I bought a shift light from Mike (Tigawoods)... which I don't really need yet, but ayyyy, why not? Cause I will need it once I start getting into racing.

$250 in parts right there...


and some more mock up. Just have to get some metal from Home Depot to make the brackets, which should be really simple at this point.

Oil cooler is on the way.
Need to mock it up once it gets here so I know which fittings I'll need for it.

Permanent spot for the power steering and transmission coolers:

So good news and bad news.

Good news first.
Got the oil cooler in today and mocked it up. Going to have to notch the under side of the hood otherwise the 150 degree fittings will hit it. Thought I had more clearance and didn't think the fittings would sit as high as they do, but oh well. Everything will work out once I get it all in.


And for the bad news.
Went to take the starter off to remove the old hard lines for the W2A system and found this. There's a nice hole in it as well as the metal being gouged.


Upon further inspection, the flywheel and pressure plate look the same way


There's also oil leaking from the underside of the transmission which I'm assuming is from the rear main. I have to remove the access cover to see what's going on inside the bell housing, but regardless, I'm going to have to drop the engine and transmission once it warms up. Freshen up the engine with new gaskets all around, do all the timing stuff, replace the flywheel and clutch, degrease the transmission, new axle seals, and the whole nine f*cking yards.

And I thought I was going to be able to drive her this summer...

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Mar 10, 2016 - 3:03 PM

On the plus side once it's done you won't have to worry about anything at least. I feel for you, it's like one step forward only to get pushed down back a few. Hopefully you won't run into any more issues.

250 in just an fittings. Your problem is summit racing. too expensive.

check out prime offers in amazon, and www.anplumbing.com 3 bucks saving on an item may be worth it.

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No, those fittings in the picture were ~$100. There's also the progressive shift light, in the top right corner, that I bought from Mike which was ~$140 (https://ecliptech.com.au/shift-i/)

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Well once this is all set and done, I'll have gone through just about everything on the car other than the engine internals and wiring harness, which the wiring is something I need to do since I have about 4 or 5 systems to pull.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Mar 10, 2016 - 7:30 PM

I'll update with some pictures in a day or two, but engine bay has started to clear out little by little.
Intake manifold is pulled, harness it out, water lines disconnected, and fuel rail is off.
Still have to take the power steering pump off the engine cause I don't feel like taking the lines apart.

Trying to have it prep'ed and ready to go for when I go to pull the engine and transmission.

Also, bought a stock engine side radiator fan as neither car came with one. Should fit fine on the stock radiator I currently have, hoping it'll squeeze if I upgrade the radiator.
Managed to get a hold of a side feed intake manifold. So once this all goes back together I'll be purchasing a different W2A cooler and mounting it over the transmission mount on the drivers side.
Which then I have to change the W2A setup because I don't have a tank.
Luckily, Mishimoto Motocross radiators mostly come with 3/4" inlet/outlets and they're small enough to fit my application. Which is a beautiful thing to find out. It'll pretty much go where the A/C condenser went, but only covering half the area.
Looking at something like this:


This post has been edited by mkernz22: Mar 16, 2016 - 11:10 PM

Haven't really done much in the past month because of school, buuuutt, the semester is almost over so summer will see a lot of progress

I do have a mr2 alternator bracket and crank pulley on the way, and soon to have a 3sge valve cover as it looks a little bit better than the current one.
But if you're going to ask why relocate the alternator to the back of the engine, here are my reasons:
-It'll be easier to install my oil filter relocation kit as I won't have a bracket and belt in the way
-It won't be near the DP and header so it'll be a bit cooler
-Most importantly, the gen1 heads are known for cracking around the alternator bracket mounts so I won't have to worry about the head cracking.

Also, I'll either be going with an MR2 electric PS pump or just no power steering.

cool beans. Mr2 electric pump. I tought about that, and just turn it on on demand, so you dont run electrical juice all the time!!

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That's actually not a bad idea! It's probably possible, but it would be sweet if you could make a circuit board to have it turn on under X mph to assist at lower speeds and keep it off above that limit.

Actually I bet you could by using something like an adjustable shift light tapped into the speedometer as a relay trigger, would have to wire it inverted so it'd stay on from standstill to wherever versus coming on past a certain point. At least that's where I'd start looking into doing such.

This post has been edited by Box: Apr 17, 2016 - 1:46 PM

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Found it:
http://www.rx4speeding.com/Speed_Activated...2V_SAS_24V.html

So in theory, I would have to wire that to a 5-pin relay at the 85 position. The P/S pump would be wired at the 87a for the Normally Closed circuit, position 87 would be left empty for the Normally Open circuit, and 30 & 86 would be power & ground. So when the speed activated switch (SAS) turns on, once you reach X MPH, it would activate the relay thus changing the NC circuit to Open, and the NO circuit to closed, which would turn off the pump at that set speed. Drop down below that X limit, then the SAS turns off, the NC goes back to closed and NO goes back to open, thus turning the pump back on.

It would be a bit of an expensive setup for everything (PS pump and this switch), but it's kind of how I would like to do it.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Apr 18, 2016 - 6:14 PM

Why?
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showt...ehps-19505.html
Just feed it VSS and it'll do the rest on it's own. It's an integral unit.

^There ya go, life made easier.

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Ha, well then. Makes things a million times easier.

Well it's been almost a year since I posted..

Bought some calipers for the BBBK setup and holy sh!t they are big. Came off a Lexus LS430
First image is the stock ST165 top mount as a size reference




Still need a lot of parts to finish that whole setup. 2004 Subaru STI DBA rotors, EBC redstuff pads for the front, and then 92-98 SC300 calipers and 06 legacy GT rotors for the rear (with machining of the hubs to fit). Going to be a $1000 project, but I want to focus on cleaning up the engine first before I really tackle that project...

Looks similar to what comes on a Supra. Knowing how Toyota likes to parts-bin stuff, they probably are the same or roughly the same.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Apr 5, 2017 - 7:18 PM

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Looking into the Supra caliper, they're actually a lot different. The supra one is a 2 piece design (not sure of the material) where as this one is one piece cast aluminum. This one is also a radial mount verse the Supra's standard mount. Not sure of the weight for the supra ones, but these are 12.5lbs fully loaded with the custom mounting bracket and bolts

I've decided to go with a FMIC instead of the W2A. I'm not sure if my HE will have a leak from a bad spot on the fins. Buying an Evo 8/9 IC will be cheaper than buying everything that I still need for the W2A setup. Will just need to clock the turbis, get a bracket for the WG, and get some piping and clamps. Still going to be a long time in the making cause I have to pull the engine and redo all the gaskets and seals on it Might pull the head and do the HG while I'm at it and make sure nothing needs to be decked. But if I do that, I might want to check everything else cause I don't really trust the kid that rebuilt it since he had mistaken the IACV line for a coolant line Hopefully this year I will be working on the car more since I'll be out of college in May (finally), hopefully working 2 or 3 jobs like crazy to pay for some of this, some trips, and some of my loans.
I also priced out everything for the BBK and it's probably going to be a $1k on that alone

This will probably arrive while I'm in Germany for a few days, but still can't wait
Most likely going to paint it black.



This post has been edited by mkernz22: May 8, 2017 - 12:07 PM

Hello radiator heat soak

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I don't think it should be an issue since it's just like any other FMIC. It's a little big, but not as big as some of the cheap ones people buy.
I'm going to have it spaced out from the radiator and will make some ductwork to have air flow straight to the rad, and two pull fans should work well.

Finally some progress on this thing! This will be the year I get her back up and running, and she's 30 years old...
Have a lot to do though..

Cleaning up the engine harness. Pulled wires from a spare one to replace sections in the engine bay. Lots of cracked wires, broken terminals, and broken connectors... Also deleted a few systems that are not needed anymore.


Engine pulled and purchased an ST185 Whiteline strut bar. Also bought a rear whiteline for the ST165