Now that I am switched over to a water to air intercooler I decided to build a cold air intake to battle intercooler heat soak. I noticed that when I am at idle for a long time with the intercooler fan off that the intercooler water temps will climb from mid 90s to 110+. I did not feel like paying $200 or more for some company's cold intake set up so I built my own. I had some extra couplers laying around, some 3 inch intercooler pipe, and kept the existing cone filter.

And here is a shot with the water guard on the filter. I can't have my 3s getting hydro-locked.

To me it's silly to spend what it costs on a big name brand kit, especially whens gains are usually negligible. Just make your own since piping is piping and couplers are couplers, then top it off with a name brand filter.

>

$200-300 for and advertised 5-10 hp gain is not worth it. I built this one for about $50.

Exactly. I think it cost me like $70 for piping, couplers, and an AEM filter vs almost $300 for a K&N or SLP cold air intake. Yeah it took some more fiddling with I'm sure, but worth saving $200+ for probably the exact same end result.

I was able to find another CT15B for my 4th gen 3sgte. I was looking for one so I could get it rebuilt and upgraded without taking the car down for a few weeks during track season. I just got it in today.



I am planning to send it off to ATS Racing to get the "Sweet ct16" done to it. I am pretty excited! At 17 psi both ATS and MR2Prime are advertising around 320 hp to the wheels. It may be more with my stage 1 Brian Crower camshafts.

My concern is the wastegate. The problem with the stock wastegate is that when I get on it the boost will shoot 1-3 psi past the target then settles in at the boost level I am shooting for. There is no way to adjust the OEM wastegate, it is sealed shut, does not have an adjustable actuating arm, and it is welded to the bracket. I am wondering if it is doing that because it is wearing out.


ATS offers a billet adjustable wastegate upgrade for an extra $200. You can chose to have a 12, 14.5, or 17 psi spring put into it. I am wondering if that is the best option because when they mean adjustable does that mean you can adjust the actuating arm or does it mean you can swap springs? Is it a 1 or 2 port wastegate? If I go that route I plan to get the 12 psi one but I am a little uncomfortable with my base pressure being 12 psi. It will make it hard for me to set up boost by gear when I go standalone with that high of a starting boost level. Is there an option to go with a Turbosmart 2 port wastegate? Then I could have a low base pressure and with a 4 port boost controller. Then I can multiply that by up to 4 times and get my boost extremely acurate. Which Turbosmart model would I need? Which bracket would I need for it? I am planning to e-mail a bunch of these questions to ATS but I welcome any of your thoughts.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Aug 21, 2017 - 9:28 PM

I got the side skirts installed on the car. It really improves the look.


This thread really helped me to install them.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=37670
Too bad Photobucket has messed up the photos.

verts definitely look alot better with sideskirts on. looks great!

Now it needs rear splitters to finish the look.

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I have some but they do not fit right with the convertible so I took them off.

You'll have to get ones for the Curren.

What about also having the intercooler fan RPM based so when the engine drops to low speeds near or at idle the fan turns on to prevent heat soak from even starting, in addition to a temperature control.

I am doing a conversion of my front headlights over to LED. These halogen bulbs are not cutting it! They are definitely too dim when compared to a lot of the newer car's headlights. I went with the Auxbeam brand and they look great.


Right now I only have the headlights on LEDs but I am trying to find a good LED that will fit into the fog light housing. The only issue I had with the install is I had to plug the bulb in backwards because the polarity is reversed.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Sep 8, 2017 - 8:00 PM

I replaced my bumper that I cut to s**t trying to figure out my engine heat issue. Come to find out it was not air flow but my A2A intercooler heat soaking and blocking air flow to my radiator. I decided to get another bumper that was clean with out any ducts. Check it out:


I made the decision to go back to a stock looking bumper after parking next to a Supra and seeing how clean that car looked next to mine.


Clean Supra vs Ricer Celica

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Oct 8, 2017 - 12:14 PM

The beam on those LED conversion craps are awful, glare all over, lots of light where you don't need it or want it.

New bumper will look way better.
I was personally never a huge fan of the vents all over the place.

I was ok with the first two on the top, didn't like the lower two. I would say going for more of a sleeper look, but then the hood ruins that vibe.

>

I am with you. I was fine with just the one duct up top. I got too out of hand with the ducts. Here is a shot of the car with the bumper on.


I got to get a photo ready for Celica of the month.

Woo, much better.

>
what model MR2 did you find the lsd out of?

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It is out of the MR2 Spyder or Lotus. Here is an ebay link for one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Helical-Lim...q8S&vxp=mtr
It drops right into the S54 transmission. Just make sure you swap the speedo gear from you stock diff. I forgot to do that and my speedometer read the wrong speed. I had a transmission shop do the swap because there are some specialized tools needed for taking the tranny completely apart and putting it back together.

I have been enjoying my 4th gen swap but with us being in the middle of summer the problem is with the AC on I almost overheat the car. I have been doing some research and the 100+ days combined with 4000 ft elevation and no humidity is to blame. I ended up ditching the stock fans and going with 2 aftermarket fans. One is a slim fan and the other is a Mishimoto 11 inch race fan (approx 2700 cfm combined). I also wired them to be controlled by my MS3PRO EVO. I would have went with 2 race fans but the passenger side of the radiator is too tight. Oh my God! It made a world of difference. Now on a 100 degree day my engine water temps never go over 208 with the AC on. Before, I would hit 220 so I would turn off the AC and the temps would come back down. My new problem is now the race fan blows on part of my intake that curves right in front of it before it shoots down to in front of the driver side wheel. This is driving intake temps up to 145-150. My question is should I route my intake towards the back of the engine bay or use reflective intake wrap on the current location? Also, the IAC for the 4th gen 3sgte pulls air from the engine bay at idle. Should I figure out a way to route it into the intake (before or after intercooler)?

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Jun 19, 2018 - 3:13 PM

So I have been looking at some different intake routing and this is my intake.
My Intake
That intake pipe that runs in front of the radiator fan is hot to the touch after a decent drive because of all that heat that the fan kicks out.

It looks like everyone else routes it close to the factory location under the fuse box.
toyota-3sgte-jdm-94-98-toyota-celica-gt4-turbo-st205-s-l300-jpg

celica3sgteintake

Which one of those is the best route?

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Jun 19, 2018 - 3:18 PM

If it were me I'd run the turbo feed down into the fender well in addition to reflective tape on the piping behind the fan and possibly a heat shield. As far as the IACV if it was designed to pull from the engine bay I'd leave it as is, though perhaps think of a way of adding a filter to keep out possible dirt.

This post has been edited by Box: Jul 26, 2018 - 4:58 AM

It's weird that your setup got you a faulty start. I remembered my friend who was a moderator for a Honda forum board. We was doing stuff on our car's and we safely boost our car's on 7 psi. I know that this forum message board doesn't provide you with enough information but you can check out this other forum message board called https://www.homemadeturbo.com/ there best in the business. I think it was an admin or a moderator that twin turbo a 4 cylinder Acura engine that ran very well. But the twin turbo setup was later sold to someone on the message board. The engine was sold to someone else outside of the forum message board.

Oh yeah, I use to work at a Toyota dealership but I still receive employee discount from them. So if you guy's is looking to buy or search part's for your Scion car's like an FRS(which I have) or anything else holla.