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Not getting fuel 3sgte - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #39080 91 posts Started by jcbass7
The car is ready to run etc. but the problem i am having now is that the fuel pump is not running. I am pretty sure its not the fuel pump with the issue, and ive used a voltmeter to test the lines going to it and they are not bringing power.

Is a relay out possibly? i know the fuel pump needs certian things in the car to work for it to run..

I jumped the +B and Fp terminals and then put the car in the ON position and still no power to the pump


any ideas?

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 22, 2006 - 7:23 PM
who did your harness?
check the fueses first, make sure all your plugs are propperly plugged in.
then start checking the wiring from the fuel pump relay, and the COR.

Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
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QUOTE(presure2 @ Jul 10, 2006 - 9:03 AM) [snapback]454011[/snapback]
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who did your harness?
check the fueses first, make sure all your plugs are propperly plugged in.
then start checking the wiring from the fuel pump relay, and the COR.



Doc Tweak did it,

i'll go see what i can do about checking that stuff


ps: where is the fuel pump relay located as well as the COR?

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 10, 2006 - 9:10 AM
they should be next to your ecu. black one is COR, yellow is fuel pump.

if you jumped b+ and Fp then the problem is not with the relay. jumping those 2 bypasses the relays. if thats not working then there is either a mistake in the harness wiring or you forgot to plug everything in.

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
alright ill check the harness to make sure its all hooked in.. if the wiring is supsect what should i check first on it to see about the fuel problem?

also are usdm and jdm ecu's wired in different?
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QUOTE(jcbass7 @ Jul 10, 2006 - 5:04 PM) [snapback]454165[/snapback]
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alright ill check the harness to make sure its all hooked in.. if the wiring is supsect what should i check first on it to see about the fuel problem?

also are usdm and jdm ecu's wired in different?



did you contact tweak?... since he did the work, im sure he would best know how to remedy the issue

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
yea i haven't been able to reach him for the last two weeks, won't reply my emails... he's a busy guy i guess, especially with fastbirds swap going down
You didn't tell me you were having a fuel problem.... which ECU are you using? What year is it from and is it a JDM or USDM ECU? What year was the harness from and again, JDM or USDM. Are you sure the C/OPN relay is plugged in? It's a fairly large relay that is usually either bolted to the ECU or very close to it. You can find it by following the green/red "FC" wire from the ECU, which will be on either pin 14 of the 22-pin connector or pin 17 of the 26-pin connector.

Also, using a volt-meter, check and see if you're getting 12v from the "+B" terminal in the diagnostic block to a ground (with the key on).

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Jul 12, 2006 - 7:07 AM

-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
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QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Jul 12, 2006 - 6:55 AM) [snapback]454982[/snapback]
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You didn't tell me you were having a fuel problem.... which ECU are you using? What year is it from and is it a JDM or USDM ECU? What year was the harness from and again, JDM or USDM. Are you sure the C/OPN relay is plugged in? It's a fairly large relay that is usually either bolted to the ECU or very close to it. You can find it by following the green/red "FC" wire from the ECU, which will be on either pin 14 of the 22-pin connector or pin 17 of the 26-pin connector.

Also, using a volt-meter, check and see if you're getting 12v from the "+B" terminal in the diagnostic block to a ground (with the key on).

-Doc



THanks again Doc, you are a lifesaver


Its all from a 93 JDM all-trac

my batt is dead so when its charged ill check the +B for a current
ok i charged the batt and i am not getting any power whatsoever to the +B terminal in the diagnostics plug.

i'm not sure what to do next


thanks guys
your COR is probably not wired up right

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
When you turn the key to the on position, does your check engine light come on steady?

Okay, if you're sure that the +B terminal has no power to it, then double-check your connections at the fuse box, the large plug can come loose if it's not plugged in right, there is a white clip that holds it in place. Also double-check your connections in the interior. Then if that doesn't change anything, check for positive power at the black/yellow wire on the bottom of the fusebox (the part that comes off) directly opposite the EFI main relay, with the key switched on of course.

Also check to see if you have positive power at the black/orange wire that goes to the coil and ignitor.

Let me know. Do you have my personal phone number?

-Doc

-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
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QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Jul 14, 2006 - 11:39 AM) [snapback]456113[/snapback]
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When you turn the key to the on position, does your check engine light come on steady?

Okay, if you're sure that the +B terminal has no power to it, then double-check your connections at the fuse box, the large plug can come loose if it's not plugged in right, there is a white clip that holds it in place. Also double-check your connections in the interior. Then if that doesn't change anything, check for positive power at the black/yellow wire on the bottom of the fusebox (the part that comes off) directly opposite the EFI main relay, with the key switched on of course.

Also check to see if you have positive power at the black/orange wire that goes to the coil and ignitor.

Let me know. Do you have my personal phone number?

-Doc



you know the EGR you we talked about? the one from the 5sfe, where do i hook that into the vac system?
Don't worry about that right now, it probably won't be used. Let's just get the engine started first.

-Doc

-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
ok

1. the check engine light is not on. and does not come on at all when keys are in

2. cheked fuse connections and interior connections they appear fine

3. there IS power at the bk-yellow wire ad the bottom of the fuse box (there were two a big and a small but getting 12 volt on both)

4. there IS power to the bk-orange wire at BOTH the coil and ignitor




the only things i know that aren't set yet, are the vac hoses to the EGR that came from the 5sfe, and the large ground behind the intake manifold



oh yes thank you soooo much Tweak, Manny, Lagos and everyone else for helping me so far through this swap, trust me i'm learning a lot and don't know where i would be without 6gc smile.gif

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 14, 2006 - 5:03 PM
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>the large ground behind the intake manifold


you might want to hook that one up

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 14, 2006 - 5:28 PM) [snapback]456232[/snapback]
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>the large ground behind the intake manifold


you might want to hook that one up



does it bolt on anywhere special, i know i'm slightly clueless for not hooking it up yet.. i'm getting ahead of myself.

let me make sure its a ground, its a black wire but looks different than the other grounds on the car, almost thicker and more intense. does it go to the manifold or firewall?
there is a ground wire on the back of the motor. if i remember correctly it bolts to the intake manifold using a 12m bolt. you have to get under the car to do it. make sure its nice and secure.

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
shall do good thing the axles aren't in yet gives me more space to reach up there
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QUOTE(jcbass7 @ Jul 14, 2006 - 3:37 PM) [snapback]456241[/snapback]
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shall do good thing the axles aren't in yet gives me more space to reach up there

It goes on the back bottom of the intake manifold on the runner second closest to the timing belt. This is THE ground for you ECU. My bet is that your car will start right up after this is put on there... While you are at it, make sure you have the ground from the top of the tranny to the battery and from the batter to the chassis hooked up, along with the ground near the alternator to near the power steering resevior. I also believe the ignitor needs to be grounded (either through its bracket or directly to the chassis w/ a wire).

-Charlie

2003 Subaru WRX Wagon1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE - SV25/ST205 hybrid1988 Camry Alltrac LE - BEAMS swap started
damn im stupid, alright i have them all hooked up cept the large one and the resistor is not grounded since there was not enough slack to have it reach its mount. I'll go get those grounded,


blah i knew that ground would was important
you say it goes to the second runner correct? well for my car the second runner is a 14mm bolt and the bolt won't fit through the ground.... any ideas?
Just make sure that ground is bolted to the manifold, the exact location doesn't really matter. That's most likely your problem.

-Doc

-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
She is bolted on and grounded.

still no power to the +B terminal and not starting.. what do i try next?
what is the car doing... does the starter even crank?

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
oh yes the starter cranks fine, my step dad sprayed starter fluid in and the car fired that for a second, but im not getting fuel at all, and i'm getting no power to the fuel pump and no power to the +B terminal

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 14, 2006 - 10:38 PM
but, you also said that your diagnostic (cel, oil...etc) lights dont come on when you put the key in the ON position, right?

did you install and aftermarket pump? i think walbros wont work at all if you mix up the positive and negative wiring.

if you want a ghetto way to test the pump, run a wire directly from the battery + to the FP terminal in the fuese box. you should hear the pump come on.

also ..doubble check that you have all your plugs hooked up. there are 6 big ones from the harness to the ecu and interrior.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jul 14, 2006 - 10:47 PM

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
its an sw20 pump,

and yes i am not getting a check engine light at all....


but i will definatly try that trick with the batt and Fp

thanks lagos
from your battery... you have a ground wire connected to the tranny AND to the chasis of the car, right?

if your not getting any diag lights then ...

you either forgot to plug something in on the interrior of the car

forgot a ground wire

or the wiring isint done correctly.

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
You're not getting pwr from the EFI relay
pull out your EFI relay (under the hood), put the key in the ign position and test the relay socket pin 1 and 2 (positive and negative of the relay coil), it's indicated on the relay which is which. If you don't have 12V+, check the "ign 7.5A" fuse. That could be your problem.
If thats fine, test out the relay by applying voltage to pin 1-2, you should here it click. If not, replace the relay.

You will know when the EFI circuit works when you see the engine light come on with the key in the ign position.

One way to TEST (only test) the EFI circuit is by shorting pin 3-4 of the socket (with the key in the ign position). Remove it imediately after the test. However, I do not recommend trying this.

As for the fuel pump, it works directly off of the EFI circuit, so no EFI, no fuel pump.

Good luck, let us know what comes up

----------------------6GC's FIRST V6----------------------JDM 96 MR2-T Faster - 94 Celica GT 3MZFE Funner - 99 Rav 4 AWD Handy