jcbass7

#61

Ok well i cleared the codes and 12 went away now its just a constant code 22.

can i run a new wire for the red wire to THW to see if it cures code 22?


i can't test to see if she will start since the starter is not grounded or what not so im either going to have to think of something genius to get that part hooked back up, buy a new starter or use the ST185 starter.

but for right now im on my way to sears to buy a digital multimeter and gooood saudering iron to attempt to band-aid my starter's ground

phattyduck

#62

>

QUOTE(jcbass7 @ Jul 20, 2006 - 7:06 AM) [snapback]458528[/snapback]

>but for right now im on my way to sears to buy a digital multimeter and gooood saudering iron to attempt to band-aid my starter's ground

The starter is grounded through the transmission. The main wire (thick) is the power to the starter, the smaller wire is the power to the solenoid that allows the starter to work. You can check if you are getting power at the smaller wire when you are cranking the car (though, if the starter turns the motor, this isn't your problem).

-Charlie

---

2003 Subaru WRX Wagon1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE - SV25/ST205 hybrid1988 Camry Alltrac LE - BEAMS swap started

jcbass7

#63

>

QUOTE(phattyduck @ Jul 20, 2006 - 3:33 PM) [snapback]458649[/snapback]

>
>

QUOTE(jcbass7 @ Jul 20, 2006 - 7:06 AM) [snapback]458528[/snapback]

>but for right now im on my way to sears to buy a digital multimeter and gooood saudering iron to attempt to band-aid my starter's ground

The starter is grounded through the transmission. The main wire (thick) is the power to the starter, the smaller wire is the power to the solenoid that allows the starter to work. You can check if you are getting power at the smaller wire when you are cranking the car (though, if the starter turns the motor, this isn't your problem).

-Charlie

ok then it wasn't ground,


the smaller wire snapped completly off.

i replaced the whole starter with the one from the ST185 AWD tranny and it works fine


I am only getting code 22 now,

but she still won't start

>

QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Jul 19, 2006 - 6:51 PM) [snapback]458304[/snapback]

>


Off the top of the starter? No, that shouldn't have anything to do with it...

-Doc

Nope it turned out to be the power to the soleniod, as pointed out above.

only error i get now is 22, still no starting

Dr_Tweak

#64

Okay so now it's cranking, but you have no start, and only code 22?

Run a new wire from the red wire at the sensor to the right wire on the ECU, then try again. That may prevent your engine from starting.

-Doc

---

-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com

jcbass7

#65

>

QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Jul 20, 2006 - 4:47 PM) [snapback]458694[/snapback]

>
Okay so now it's cranking, but you have no start, and only code 22?

Run a new wire from the red wire at the sensor to the right wire on the ECU, then try again. That may prevent your engine from starting.

-Doc

ok so i'm basically running a new wire for the red on off of the temp sensor?

ill be back in ten min to let you know how it works

jcbass7

#66

ok ran a new wire and still getting code 22 (cleared it, etc.)

Dr_Tweak

#67

Is it plugged in? Does the brown wire have continuity to ground?

-Doc

---

-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com

jcbass7

#68

ill check, brb one sec

ok im not incredibly sure i do this right, but with the ohm meter set on 200 (not 200k, just plain old 200) with a digital multi meter the brown wire reads around 60 ohms when grounded

Dr_Tweak

#69

Run a wire from the brown wire to a good ground and try it again.

-Doc

---

-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com

jcbass7

#70

ok i ran the ground, and now after clearing the codes if i try to read codes i get a fast constant blinking

i'm assuming that means there are no engine codes?


still won't start just cranks and cranks


my exhaust is not hooked up, could this cause any back pressure issues, etc?

Dr_Tweak

#71

Okay, DO you have spark?

---

-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com

jcbass7

#72

Yes i do, i even got shocked checking it.

I tested the lead going to the distributer and that had plenty of spark when touched to a ground



the guy i got this all from put platinum spark plugs in it, and i know people here don't like those but those shouldn't cause a problem right?

Dr_Tweak

#73

No, should be fine. Is your fuel pump running when you jumper +B and FP? (Key on)

Are you sure the plug wires are in the right order?

If that all is good, then crank the engine for like 10 seconds and then pull out a couple of your plugs. Do they have fuel on them? Do they smell of fuel?

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Jul 20, 2006 - 5:52 PM

---

-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com

jcbass7

#74

ok i beleive the wires are in the right order, 1-3-4-2?

but anywho, i cranked away for a little while and then pulled the plug that was accessable without moving the intercooler and it was dry as a desert. couldn't smell fuel or anything.

When i put the key to on, i hear the fuel pump wine on etc.

i'm going to crack the top of the fuel filter to see if fuel is getting there,

what else should i do?

jcbass7

#75

ok i AM getting fuel at the top of the fuel filter, so this means the issue is between the fuel filter and the cylinders right?

either my fuel rail is crap, or my injectors all need to be cleaned and tested..

Tell me otherwise if i am wrong..

thanks guys

jcbass7

#76

ok so i ran the codes for the fun of it...

now im getting code 24 and 31!



EDIT: my stupidity strikes again, after reading what those codes were i soon realized that my airflow metere must be unplugged and sure enough it was

Codes are gone now

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 22, 2006 - 7:23 PM

lagos

#77

>

QUOTE

>ok i beleive the wires are in the right order, 1-3-4-2

you do realize that the firing order has nothing to do with how the plug wires should be hooked up, right? standing in front of the motor, you should have them hooked up as 1-2-3-4.


>

QUOTE

>EDIT: my stupidity strikes again, after reading what those codes were i soon realized that my airflow metere must be unplugged and sure enough it was

the afm must be pluged in, and all the inake piping must be on there air tight. if its not then the car will not run.


do you have any pics of your angine bay. maybe we can spot something you forgot to hook up.

---

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned

jcbass7

#78

>

QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 22, 2006 - 8:44 PM) [snapback]459649[/snapback]

>
>

QUOTE

>ok i beleive the wires are in the right order, 1-3-4-2

you do realize that the firing order has nothing to do with how the plug wires should be hooked up, right? standing in front of the motor, you should have them hooked up as 1-2-3-4.

Yes, i realize this, i was talking more about the distributer and how it spins counter clockwise and the cylinders need to be hooked up 1-3-4-2






>

QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 22, 2006 - 8:44 PM) [snapback]459649[/snapback]

>
>

QUOTE

>EDIT: my stupidity strikes again, after reading what those codes were i soon realized that my airflow metere must be unplugged and sure enough it was

the afm must be pluged in, and all the inake piping must be on there air tight. if its not then the car will not run.


do you have any pics of your angine bay. maybe we can spot something you forgot to hook up.

The AFM is plugged in properly and the intake secure, that was just a minor issue of me forgetting to have it plugged in,

my problem now is that i am getting no fuel on the plugs after cranking for a while



i think its either my fuel rail or injectors either something is clogged or the injectors are not squirting...?

lagos

#79

do you have your fuel injector resistor pack hooked up and bolted down?

do you hear the fuel pump come on? do you feel fuel running throught the lines when u put your hand on them while trying to start the car?

---

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned

jcbass7

#80

>

QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 22, 2006 - 10:20 PM) [snapback]459681[/snapback]

>
do you have your fuel injector resistor pack hooked up and bolted down?

do you hear the fuel pump come on? do you feel fuel running throught the lines when u put your hand on them while trying to start the car?

hooked up = yes
bolted down = no

fuel pump come on = yes
fuel in the lines = yes i cracked the fuel filter and it spills out from there

K-ESD

#81

>

QUOTE(jcbass7 @ Jul 23, 2006 - 10:24 AM) [snapback]459746[/snapback]

>
>

QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 22, 2006 - 10:20 PM) [snapback]459681[/snapback]

>
do you have your fuel injector resistor pack hooked up and bolted down?

do you hear the fuel pump come on? do you feel fuel running throught the lines when u put your hand on them while trying to start the car?

hooked up = yes
bolted down = no

fuel pump come on = yes
fuel in the lines = yes i cracked the fuel filter and it spills out from there

bolt the resistor pack down and crank'er

---

----------------------6GC's FIRST V6----------------------JDM 96 MR2-T Faster - 94 Celica GT 3MZFE Funner - 99 Rav 4 AWD Handy

jcbass7

#82

anywhere special? i have barely any slack on the coil, ignitor and reisiter pack to mount them cleanly

jcbass7

#83

ok thats bolted down as well as the coil pack, now i need to bolt the ignitor down, but i have barely any slack.. should i just extend the wires?

jcbass7

#84

is there a way i can test the injectors to see if they are even spraying? possibly taking a volt-meter and touching the lead wire running to them?

presure2

#85

>

QUOTE(jcbass7 @ Jul 23, 2006 - 10:03 AM) [snapback]459750[/snapback]

>
anywhere special? i have barely any slack on the coil, ignitor and reisiter pack to mount them cleanly

anywhere where you can get it grounded.
are your ignitor and coil are also bolted to the firewall making solid contact for ground as well?

---

Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered

jcbass7

#86

currently a work in progress manny

i moved the coil so i could bolt the ignitor there instead. now im searching for a home for the coil pack

is there a way i can test these to see if they are making a good ground?
I'm using self tapping metal screws for some of the locations

lagos

#87

>

QUOTE

>is there a way i can test these to see if they are making a good ground?

yeah, grab a multimeter. touch the red prong to your battery + and the black prong to the screw you just bolted in. you should get 12v on your multimeter.


if it seems like u dont have any slack... make sure your harness isint twisted up in some funky way. thats what happened to me when i 1st put mine in. i took the harness out, and tried again and had all the room i needed.

---

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned

phattyduck

#88

Sounds like you also should check for power at the injectors. One side of the injector connector should be at 12V+ with the key in the on position... make sure that wire is getting power.

-Charlie

---

2003 Subaru WRX Wagon1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE - SV25/ST205 hybrid1988 Camry Alltrac LE - BEAMS swap started

jcbass7

#89

You sure they need 12v with the key to the ON position? The two i could reach are getting nothing, and .4 volts...

Im going to take the intercooler off to get to the rest and check it all out.

jcbass7

#90

ok i am getting no voltage on tkhe injectors when i test teh black orange wire to a ground, with they key in the on position