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Another C52...unfortunately...perhaps I'll learn how to rebuild trannies and install new synchros.

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Haha, I always go inside and clean up first...don't wanna get any dirt or grease on the nice camera.

Today in class I was bored, so I drew up my basic wiring schematic for my new harness. It should be nice when it's all said and done. Just have to figure out what exactly I need to order as far as connectors go.

^^You're a pretty big dork, man. Good job on all that, I know I couldn't do it.

Hey Chris, I havent been on the site in awhile, and i was keeping track of this thread before, so I just was curious to know if you still had the hesitation and idle problems? If not, what did you do to fix them? Sorry for not reading the thread right now, I'm kind of in a hurry to get out the door and i just wanted to get this posted. Thanks.

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I have that sweatshirt... well jacket... whatever it is..

I was wondering the same as Art about why you were so clean!

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Thanks.

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Yep, it's fixed. There's info in my previous posts.

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I love that jacket...so warm. And yeah, I always go up and get cleaned up before I take pictures, because I don't want to get the camera dirty.

Tonight all I really got done was getting the dash off...which wasn't fun.



There's the interior with the dash off...does anyone have any pointers on removing the A/C unit?



There's my clutch disc removed from the motor. Anyone know what causes those springs to look like that? Would that cause problems shifting?





There are a couple shots of the motor on the stand...note how dirty it is...it'll be clean soon.

I came back to Ellensburg tonight to go to my friend's 21-run, so no more work on the car tomorrow, but I'll hopefully work on it more this weekend.

looks like the clutch springs all hit something, any faint marks on the flywheel or flywheel bolt heads?

This post has been edited by Bitter: Mar 1, 2007 - 8:30 AM

I had a problem like that with the clutch in my turbo coupe. It was caused by one of the flywheel bolts backing itself out. Shifting got tougher and tougher until the clutch disc was pretty much locked against the pressure plate. I'm now much more liberal with the Loctite.

the A/C unit comes out pretty easily....

bolts on top and bottom + some connecting the 3 sections.....but i think the middle one normally will pop out first then the rest kinda just follow and fall off

Today I came home for a while to work on the cars, and I got a fair amount done on the Yelli Celi.



I first removed more of the interior. The steering column comes out pretty easily, and the big bar inside the dash is just held in by a ton of 12mm bolts (and some wire clips and two springs. ) The clutch master cylinder and brake booster are held in by just a few 12mm bolts as well, along with a cotter pin and a metal pin that attaches the pedal to the piston.





There's the engine bay after I removed the clutch master cylinder, brake booster, power steering lines, brake lines, clutch lines, throttle cable, and the heater core lines. I've yet to remove the heater, A/C, and blower motor stuff, but it comes out pretty easily (removed it from my parts car today. )

Also, I may be relocating the heater core lines so they run through the firewall at a lower and less visible location. I really wish I had more money so I could run custom brake lines and hide a lot of stuff inside the dash or under the car. But I don't, so I'll have to live with my current setup.



About as close to driving the Celica as I'll get for quite a while. I'm going to try to hurry up and get it back together though, because I can't stand my stupid daily driver G20. I replaced the knock sensor today to try to fix some hesitation issues I keep having, and it made it worse and introduced a new idle problem...stupid Nissans...I'm done with them and will never buy another.

Chris - nice pics Are yea going to use the A/C core? If not - let me know - im looking for it looong time enouth, cuz i will converting another celica - and in my conversion pack there are the spaces between cores instead of the header core (the car was not with the A/C).

BTW - about the brake lines I dont know how in US - but replacment brake lines from Cooper here cost somthing like 5$ for a 2 meter one with all the fitting You can get even any lengh ones for even less $... I used them on my SSIII conversion. You should just look around for them or worse case - let me know and i could just get them for you here

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When you say A/C core do you mean the part inside the white box? Because I know I'll probably need to re-use the box with the insides ripped out.

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I mean whole box If you aint needed this fast - we could do a simple switch - i would send you whole spacer. But actually i was thinking that only all the insides of your A/C box would help me too along with the A/C core.

Doggy - I would be willing to get you an entire setup out of a junkyard if you need me to. I need to go to the junkyards for my friends POS MR2 anyway and I know some people who own one with (5) 6th gens currently. I'm sure I could find you one.
Let me know if you want me to and also if there are any differences between model cause I know some of the cars are GTs and some are STs.
I'd be glad to help.

[man SW20's are problematic POS's - since he got that car I have had no time to work on mine - always something with that car - fun though]

This post has been edited by Negative: Mar 2, 2007 - 9:23 AM

Hey Romas,
Is yours from a LHD Celica? I suspect that they're different between LHD and RHD. I could probably do the trade if it's LHD.

Also, on those brake lines, those are for standard hard lines, right? Did you have to bend them yourself? Do they come as just long straight lines? I know they bend easily, but I'd be afraid that bending them would affect the flow of brake fluid throughout them. Thanks buddy.

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You must use tubing benders or they will pinch off. Tubing Benders don't cost much though and they would be a good addition to your toolbox considering all the mods you do to your Celica. They would also be good for your hard fuel lines.

Thanks for the info...I did some reading and ordered one a few minutes ago from Harbor Freight. Now I just need to find a place to get some straight stainless brake lines that I can bend for the two that I'm planning to move into the dash.

I use 1/4" SS tubing from work. We get it at a place called the Metal Supermarket when we just need a little and not a big stock order. I'm sure some place near you would do the same. You basically just need a place that will sell to the general public. I'd send you some but it would be a really long package and the stuff is so cheap it wouldn't be cost effective. Try to find tubing fittings like Parker A-Lok or similar. If you swage them right they will never leak.

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Do you have a part number for the same size fittings as the OEM Toyota ones? Also, don't you need a flaring tool or something to flare out the ends of the brake lines once the fittings are slid over them? And is 1/4" the same size tubing that Toyota uses? Thanks for all the help.

No I don't actually know what size tubing is used by Toyota. I replaced all of it from my 4th Gen swapped car and I just used NPT threads and matched everything up using parts from work. You don't actually need a flaring tool with A-Lok fittings - they will swage tightly and never leak. Just make sure you use a drill to clean the ID. You also don't need the swage check tool that they reccommend - just tighten it as much as you can with out bottoming the Nut to the fitting body [assuming you are using SS fittings - CS fittings will break] or you can just measure the distance called for and tighten it to that.
One thing I didn't think of though is how are you gonna cut the tubing? A hack saw or band saw will work but you will def need to clean the ID really well. Tubing cutters are just easier.
One more thing - make sure you blow out the tubing really well with compressed air when you are done because that tubing sits around in warehouses and fills up with trash and then when you cut it it will get more trash in it. Be really sure to clean it out well.
If you can find out the sizes of the fittings Toyota uses I can get you Parker P/Ns for the parts you need.
Hope this helps.

This post has been edited by Negative: Mar 2, 2007 - 5:52 PM

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Thanks for the info. Don't you need to at least flare them a bit so that the fittings have something to press against? What did you use for flaring? Or are you using a different style fitting than an OEM Toyota one?

And I'm pretty sure the Toyota fittings are 10x1.0 inverted flare fittings. If I found the correct size tubing, couldn't I simply cut some old brake lines, remove the fittings, and use them on my new tubing?

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I already solved the problem with A/C core, Daniel helped me out Thank man.

As for the brake lines - yes they come in a long straight line, and yes those bend easy, there is even special tool for bending them or you can just bend them with arms There is nothing to be afraid that it would affect the flow, cuz they bend not crush. We are using these lines then converting RHD to LHD, cuz you need to make the lines longer in some places. End fiting are really good, and there are even spacers to conect them to the stock lines if you need to just make the stock line a bit longer. I had nothing but good experience with these lines.

Chris you can get the brake lines already flared and ready to bend at ummmm Auto Zone or Shucks whatever your Advanced Auto equivelent is...they are really cheap to get and easy to work with..

keep it up, your project is looking great, i would love to know how you are going to hide somethings away!

wow, chris, great work so far!
cant wait to see what it looks like with the wire tuck, ect complete!

Thanks for the brake info guys.

Last night I didn't get much done, but I made progress nonetheless. I first removed the A/C box from the car.





Note the top edge of the box (that has the A/C line connector sticking out) in the above photo. You can see where the two ends of the box connect, and that the top edge protrudes out pretty far in order to accomodate the A/C unit inside the box. This edge sits very close to the firewall, and seeing as how I need more room in my dash to hide my brake lines and stuff, I decided I'd trim that edge of the box down.



So I took it apart...four screws and four clips hold the box together, and the silver A/C unit just slides right out.





Then I cut both sides of the box.



I then cut a piece of plastic out to cover that side that I cut off.





Then I simply glued it in place with 3M Windo Weld urethane. I opted to use urethane because it's strong, and I was already using it earlier last night to fill my G20's motor mounts. Finished, it should give me an extra 1.5-2" of space to work with, which is plenty for hiding a brake proportioning valve.

I also hit the junkyard this morning and picked up tons of grommets, some heater core lines, an EG civic clutch fluid reservoir (for my power steering,) and an Infiniti Q45 fuel filter holder for moving my fuel filter.

Also, does anyone know anything about AMP CPC connectors? I'm trying to figure out what I need for my engine harness.

I'm ordering plug #206150-1 and receptacle #206151-1 and I'm trying to figure out what pins and sockets I need, what I need to crimp them, and if there's anything else required. I'm also ordering two cable clamps (part #206138-1,) one for each side of the connection.

I think I need pin #770987-1 and socket #770988-1, but I'm not entirely sure.

Nevermind on the AMP CPC connector stuff. I just priced it out, and I'd be spending around $50 just for the supplies for one 37-pin connector for my engine harness.

Plus, according to both of the people I spoke with on Honda-Tech, I'd need to use Tyco's AMP crimper tool, which is a $150 purchase. Or I could buy the solder pins and sockets, but those are $1.00 a piece, and I'd need 40 or so of each, so I'd be spending around $110 for one single harness connector.

So it looks like I'll be going another route...I'll think of something...just not sure exactly what I want to do just yet.

when its all done, put up some good videos. some of us dont fully apprectiate the deafening roar of an ITB setup. the sucking loud sound is just soo different than exhaust tone.

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Will do.

I worked a bit more on the car last night. I removed the carpet, heater unit, and the blower unit, and cleaned up some areas of the firewall where metal plates will be welded in place to cover up some of the large holes. I've got a couple friends who can weld and will work for beer, so I just gotta stock the mini fridge up and hopefully that'll get done this weekend. Some of the holes to weld shut include the A/C line connector hole, the stock engine harness entry hole, the A/C unit drain hole, both stock heater core line holes, and a few more little holes.

For the heater core, I'm going to run custom lines that exit lower in the firewall...I'm just not sure how I'm going to do it yet. But I'm heading to a local radiator shop here in a few hours to ask for their advice and pick up some fittings for my steering rack lines and tubing for my new brake lines. I also have to hit Sears and grab a tubing cutter, a hole-cutting bit, and a tap for my new bolt holes that I'll need to mount stuff inside the firewall. And then I have to hit the motorcycle shop to see if they have any good deals on a small lightweight battery for my car. I'll probably go with a Odyssey PC680.

It's 4:36AM and I woke up early and couldn't fall back to sleep, so I think I might see if I can bend my rear brake lines so that they go into the car. Perhaps I'll experiment with my fuel filter placement as well, and maybe begin mocking up my battery mount so that my friends can weld it up for me later.