a spring is good for bending brake lines, the kind you put on a spring door thats got tightly wound coils. ive also used metal round stock or wooden dowels to bend around, but i think ive used my own 2 hands the most.

a friend of mine is looking to get a 6th gen celica and is thinking about going the same way you've gone with the ITB, hes the one whos REALLY interested in a video.

It's looking good, man. I honestly liked the dark grey engine bay better than the yellow though. I know it will most likely look better yellow when it's all together. I'm excited to see how this looks. I've been working on my own little projects that I felt were pretty cool, but they are dwarfed compared to yours.

I got some work done today. I got the proportioning valve and T-fitting for the brake lines installed and bent the rear lines so that they go to the new position. That's about it though. I got my tubing cutter, tap and drill bit, and three five-foot brake lines for me to bend today as well. No pics because I forgot my camera, but I'll get some later this week or this weekend.

its cheaper if you buy it by the roll from napa, a 20ft roll costs about $12 and you can run a continuous line instead of splicing sections together.

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I'd rather have a few straight pieces, so that I don't have to unroll and straighten the line myself. Also, none of my lines are over five feet so I won't need to splice anything together.

Hey coom, b4 u pulled your car apart..what did you paint ur firewall with?? Just rattel can stuff?? or did you use like a high heat rattel can?

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I used the Duplicolor high temperature paint. It's held up pretty well.

Today I got quite a bit done. I pressure washed the bay and began sanding and grinding.



Me with the angle grinder...that battery tray probably took a good two hours to remove.



Passenger side...notice the lack of any studs on the firewall and the removed power steering reservoir bracket.



Drivers side...no more studs or battery tray.



Firewall...nice and smooth.

Now I have to get the holes filled, do some bodywork, and then the bay will be ready to paint.

And to think I was freaking out after drilling a couple holes to fit skirts.hahaha
You're a madman, I can't wait to see this thing finished.: )

This post has been edited by 97lestyousay: Mar 12, 2007 - 12:06 AM

thats where its at man! going all out!

when you put your motor back in the car make sure you place the map sensor sitting up right with the vacuum port facing straight down it made a difference on my black top 20valve in my 85 corolla. it ran smoother

that is some awesome work man. I love clean engine bays. The less stuff there the better and I think you are going to have one of the most perfect engine bays you can have.

Kinda familiar look I had the same thing going under my SSIII hood... But instead of paitning everything car color - i had no time and did everything as it has to be on stock... Now after i get my car from body shop - will be doing the same as you are Chris Lol... cleaning cleaning...

Btw - just in case Chris - instead of usinf bondo all the way on the engine bay, just smooth all the big inperfections, and then spray the Liquid filler (2 component one), spray one thick layer all over the bay - and let it dry for atleast 12 hours. it will cover most of the inperfections all around and it is easy to sand it. After this just shoot out the primer and you will be ready for paint

looking good chris, really interested in seeing how the shaved look will come out!

but just food for thought, next time you want to remove a metal component, i'd suggest drilling out the tack welds with a drill, you'll save A LOT of time and your back

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Thanks for the advice. Do you know if it needs to be above the intake manifold? I'd like to hide it below the ITBs if possible.

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Do you have a link to this liquid filler stuff Romas? I don't think I've seen it.

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I considered that for the battery tray, but decided I didn't want my frame rail to look like swiss cheese.

haha swiss cheese....just think of it more like ummmm...a light weight mod

jp keep it up

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Haha will do.

I got your PM, and figured I'd post up this information for all. Since the Club4AG Forums are down, I get most of my information from the following places:

http://www.club4g.com (The tech reference section is still up)
http://www.mr2oc.com/forumdisplay.php?f=57
http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/
http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/phil.bradshaw/Index.htm
http://www.toymods.net/forums/
http://www.20vmki.com/

thanks chris

Dont have a link Chris - but will get you few brand names and product names who produce them. Its a nice stuff to use

Ok, heres the info that i could dig out about this polister liquid filler:

Manufacture is UPOL product is called REFACE, or you can look for another manufacture HB BODY they mane Polister Liquid Filler too.

DINITROL has to have this Liquid filler in they line of product, and i think i saw DupliColor filler too.

Thanks Romas...I'll look for that stuff today and see what I can find.

Also,
I'm wondering if anyone knows what these lines in red are for.

I'm pretty sure those are the lines for the charcoal canister.

this might help




edit: looks like wannabe was right, charcoal canister

This post has been edited by playr158: Mar 14, 2007 - 2:48 PM

Thanks guys.

Today I got the holes filled and began doing some bodywork to flatten everything out. I couldn't find that two-part filler, plus I'm broke, so I just used my USC body filler.

Sadly, my finger began separating from my fingernail after just half an hour of trying to sand out filler on some of the complex curves of the firewall, so I didn't get a lot done. Then I forgot the camera at home, so no pictures tonight, but I'll get some online hopefully this weekend.

Today was very productive...I got the engine bay all smoothed out, and did some work to the G20 to fix a bunch of stuff. I also wore holes in my fingers, which isn't so good, because I may be going out on a date tomorrow.



Gotta use protection...if you're ever doing bodywork, you need a good respirator.



The whole bay, mostly smooth.



It may not look smooth, but it is...once it's all one color it'll look much better.



More of those filled holes...here you can kind of see that those filled areas are nice and smooth.



Where the battery once sat...now nice and smooth.



And to mix it up, a shot of the G20. I can't stand this car's stupid problems...you fix something, and it causes more things to go wrong. Both of my SR20DE powered cars have sucked as far as hesitation and idling goes...you push in the clutch, hit the brakes, and the RPMs drop way down (sometimes stalling the car,) then shoot back up...sooooo annoying. Also, sometimes the car hesitates, sometimes it hesitates and jerks violently, sometimes it drives perfectly...at completely random times. And I'm not about to buy a new MAF sensor ($$$) which is what I suspect the problem is on the G20. Anyway, enough ranting...hopefully soon I'll have the Celica done and I can get rid of the G20.

What happened to the B13?

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I sold it to get a four door. Then I came across the G20, with the original owner and records for everything, for the same price I sold the SE-R for, so I jumped on that deal.

Lucky. I always wanted a G20, but when I was searching for a car before I got the Celi I could only find Autos, and I didn't want to have to do an auto-manual conversion. Sorry it's giving you issues. No help from sr20forum?

Just another hint Chris - if you want to make sure everything is smooth and there are no sanding marks / dings / imperfections - use a Control layer Just take black or red ratle can (nitro paint) and spray over the sandible area a little mist of the paint. After this - start sanding - paint will stay in all the inperfections and it will be 10X easyer to see where and how much you need to sand I ussualy use this method all over the sanding jobs, even then sanding the last layer with 1000 grit - its really good to see how everything is turning out.

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qft. i know if my engine bay looked like that, i would be a little overwhelmed. good stuff chris, its going to look awesome