sticky this lol 
"how to make your engine bay Friggen Sweet"
"how to make your engine bay Friggen Sweet"
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My Engine Bay Renovation Thread - 6G Celicas Forums
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I cant really tell that well, (mainly cause I really don't know a thing about cars), but by the picture it appears (to me at least) that you are running part of your harness over the wheel well. If you do this, I highly suggest that do something to protect it. My buddy shredded his harness apart from having it to close to the wheel...of course it didn't help that his car was literally an inch of the ground, but if you already thought of this chris, then just ignore my post
-Jack
QUOTE(Coomer @ Apr 6, 2007 - 9:04 AM) [snapback]543870[/snapback]
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I'm not sure yet. Was planning on it for a while, but I may try longer stacks (4" or 6") once I have money.
Tonight I made some progress...stuff tends to take me so long to do. But oh well, at least it'll be done right.
There's where I'm at with the fusebox wiring. I ran out of tape so I had to stop early. Also, I need more four-gauge wire and four-gauge wire ends so that I can finish up the battery wiring.
There's the fusebox mounted. I'm going to seal off the holes with silicone so water cannot enter the fusebox.
You can also see the four relays. Three are for the fans and one is for the horns. And that's just one of several sirens, so revealing the location of one shouldn't matter. Throughout the project I've also been working on plenty of security features, but those of course cannot be shared.
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QUOTE(Kwanza26 @ Apr 5, 2007 - 8:56 PM) [snapback]543782[/snapback]
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You gonna use the stock stacks Chris? I'm running a set of 4inch stacks and am quite happy with the overall performance.
You gonna use the stock stacks Chris? I'm running a set of 4inch stacks and am quite happy with the overall performance.
I'm not sure yet. Was planning on it for a while, but I may try longer stacks (4" or 6") once I have money.
Tonight I made some progress...stuff tends to take me so long to do. But oh well, at least it'll be done right.
There's where I'm at with the fusebox wiring. I ran out of tape so I had to stop early. Also, I need more four-gauge wire and four-gauge wire ends so that I can finish up the battery wiring.
There's the fusebox mounted. I'm going to seal off the holes with silicone so water cannot enter the fusebox.
You can also see the four relays. Three are for the fans and one is for the horns. And that's just one of several sirens, so revealing the location of one shouldn't matter. Throughout the project I've also been working on plenty of security features, but those of course cannot be shared.
I cant really tell that well, (mainly cause I really don't know a thing about cars), but by the picture it appears (to me at least) that you are running part of your harness over the wheel well. If you do this, I highly suggest that do something to protect it. My buddy shredded his harness apart from having it to close to the wheel...of course it didn't help that his car was literally an inch of the ground, but if you already thought of this chris, then just ignore my post
-Jack
Now SR powered
Thanks for the comments guys.
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It won't be too hard to access...it will be accessible from the bottom of the car without removing the fender or front bumper.
And I've thought about building a sheet metal cage around it (at least on the bottom) that bolts into place...I probably will as I've got some extra steel sheets lying around.
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I am indeed running the harness over the wheel well, but lots of wiring is run that way from the factory. My extra wiring even runs through the factory clips. It will be fine, especially since my wiring is taped, then loomed, then taped again.
Tonight I'm hoping to get the fusebox harness done and wire up the battery and circuit breaker wiring. I may begin putting the interior back together and install the rear AGX strut assemblies as well.
This post has been edited by Coomer: Apr 6, 2007 - 12:16 PM
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QUOTE
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quick question: isn't it hard to access the fuse box once the fender is on? I would recomend a extra sheet metal cage around the entire fuse box to prevent tempering from the outside of your car.
quick question: isn't it hard to access the fuse box once the fender is on? I would recomend a extra sheet metal cage around the entire fuse box to prevent tempering from the outside of your car.
It won't be too hard to access...it will be accessible from the bottom of the car without removing the fender or front bumper.
And I've thought about building a sheet metal cage around it (at least on the bottom) that bolts into place...I probably will as I've got some extra steel sheets lying around.
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QUOTE(OrbitalGT95 @ Apr 6, 2007 - 8:40 AM) [snapback]543956[/snapback]
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I cant really tell that well, (mainly cause I really don't know a thing about cars), but by the picture it appears (to me at least) that you are running part of your harness over the wheel well. If you do this, I highly suggest that do something to protect it. My buddy shredded his harness apart from having it to close to the wheel...of course it didn't help that his car was literally an inch of the ground, but if you already thought of this chris, then just ignore my post
-Jack
I cant really tell that well, (mainly cause I really don't know a thing about cars), but by the picture it appears (to me at least) that you are running part of your harness over the wheel well. If you do this, I highly suggest that do something to protect it. My buddy shredded his harness apart from having it to close to the wheel...of course it didn't help that his car was literally an inch of the ground, but if you already thought of this chris, then just ignore my post
-Jack
I am indeed running the harness over the wheel well, but lots of wiring is run that way from the factory. My extra wiring even runs through the factory clips. It will be fine, especially since my wiring is taped, then loomed, then taped again.
Tonight I'm hoping to get the fusebox harness done and wire up the battery and circuit breaker wiring. I may begin putting the interior back together and install the rear AGX strut assemblies as well.
This post has been edited by Coomer: Apr 6, 2007 - 12:16 PM
New Toyota project coming soon...
looking good, coomer.
i thought you already had your battery wired to the trunk, though? do you have both the leads run to use the original ground, or did you gound in the trunk?
i thought you already had your battery wired to the trunk, though? do you have both the leads run to use the original ground, or did you gound in the trunk?
do you know who i am, mr. worley?
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At one point it was in the trunk. Then I put it back in the engine bay, and now it's going to be in the front passenger fender area where the washer fluid reservoir and pump used to be. I'm just not sure where I want to mount my remote terminals yet.
QUOTE(uberschall @ Apr 6, 2007 - 12:24 PM) [snapback]544057[/snapback]
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looking good, coomer.
i thought you already had your battery wired to the trunk, though? do you have both the leads run to use the original ground, or did you gound in the trunk?
looking good, coomer.
i thought you already had your battery wired to the trunk, though? do you have both the leads run to use the original ground, or did you gound in the trunk?
At one point it was in the trunk. Then I put it back in the engine bay, and now it's going to be in the front passenger fender area where the washer fluid reservoir and pump used to be. I'm just not sure where I want to mount my remote terminals yet.
New Toyota project coming soon...
nice and clean A+
yea your 3sgte is cool but ill stick to my 7agte
Tonight I got the fusebox harness mostly completed. It just needs to be loomed up and ran to the correct location.
There you can see the wiring harness running up and over the wheel. Don't mind those two hacked up AE101 harnesses in the foreground.
There you can see how the wiring is ran into the car. Just like the factory airbag wiring.
And there is the end of the fusebox harness.
And finally, there are some of my parts that I received today.
Anyway, I'm tired and about to pass out, so that's it for tonight. Tomorrow hopefully I can get a lot done.
There you can see the wiring harness running up and over the wheel. Don't mind those two hacked up AE101 harnesses in the foreground.
There you can see how the wiring is ran into the car. Just like the factory airbag wiring.
And there is the end of the fusebox harness.
And finally, there are some of my parts that I received today.
Anyway, I'm tired and about to pass out, so that's it for tonight. Tomorrow hopefully I can get a lot done.
New Toyota project coming soon...
leave teh battery in the trunk!
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I was going to, but I like having an empty trunk, so I figure I'll just hide the battery and have remote terminals. I'm working on fabricating a mount for the terminals out of some 16-gauge sheet metal right now.
QUOTE(playr158 @ Apr 7, 2007 - 5:00 AM) [snapback]544233[/snapback]
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leave teh battery in the trunk!
leave teh battery in the trunk!
I was going to, but I like having an empty trunk, so I figure I'll just hide the battery and have remote terminals.
I'm working on fabricating a mount for the terminals out of some 16-gauge sheet metal right now.
New Toyota project coming soon...
its going to be tricky mounting the battery in the fender. you would have to use some pretty thick steel so that the battery wont fly out of your car if you hit a big pot hole or something.
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
+1 on leaving it in the trunk. what kind of terminals are you using? do you have a picture of them? i just got all the cable i need for the relocation, but i haven't found a good set of remote terminals yet.
harness is looking pretty good. i'm really looking forward to seeing the end result.
harness is looking pretty good. i'm really looking forward to seeing the end result.
do you know who i am, mr. worley?
Today I mounted my temporary battery, remote terminals, and a coolant reservoir.
There's my temporary battery, stolen from a broken riding lawnmower. It's in there so that I could build my battery mount and so that I have a power source to test all my new wiring. My new battery will be almost the exact same size, so it will work out really well. I plan on running a NRG-Cell racing battery, and it's one of the last things I have left to order.
And that mount is plenty strong, and will only be stronger once I modify it a bit more.
There are my remote battery terminals. I'm using Summit Racing remote terminals that were $16 or so I think. To mount them, I cut, bent, drilled, and painted a piece of 16-gauge steel.
And finally, there is my coolant reservoir, from a Toyota Paseo. I'm not so sure that I like the way that I ended up mounting it. I may end up finding a different reservoir and mounting it differently, but we'll see. What do you guys think?
There's my temporary battery, stolen from a broken riding lawnmower.
It's in there so that I could build my battery mount and so that I have a power source to test all my new wiring. My new battery will be almost the exact same size, so it will work out really well. I plan on running a NRG-Cell racing battery, and it's one of the last things I have left to order. And that mount is plenty strong, and will only be stronger once I modify it a bit more.
There are my remote battery terminals. I'm using Summit Racing remote terminals that were $16 or so I think. To mount them, I cut, bent, drilled, and painted a piece of 16-gauge steel.
And finally, there is my coolant reservoir, from a Toyota Paseo. I'm not so sure that I like the way that I ended up mounting it. I may end up finding a different reservoir and mounting it differently, but we'll see. What do you guys think?
New Toyota project coming soon...
thats pretty sick looking, how do those remote battery terminals work?
**If you play My Brute, joing the 6gc.net clan!**--A section of a kid's actual test that had been scanned--
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They're just wired directly to the hidden battery terminals. Red goes to positive and black to ground. It'll allow me to easily jump my car or others' cars and things like that.
QUOTE(tonytutino @ Apr 7, 2007 - 8:37 PM) [snapback]544400[/snapback]
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thats pretty sick looking, how do those remote battery terminals work?
thats pretty sick looking, how do those remote battery terminals work?
They're just wired directly to the hidden battery terminals. Red goes to positive and black to ground. It'll allow me to easily jump my car or others' cars and things like that.
New Toyota project coming soon...
looks really good. 
hope you don't plan on relying on that lawnmower battery in the winter, tho!
yet another question: if i put my battery in the trunk, and mount remote terminals like those in the engine compartment, and i only run the positive lead to the front, grounding the battery in the back...what do i connect the negative remote terminal to?
hope you don't plan on relying on that lawnmower battery in the winter, tho!
yet another question: if i put my battery in the trunk, and mount remote terminals like those in the engine compartment, and i only run the positive lead to the front, grounding the battery in the back...what do i connect the negative remote terminal to?
do you know who i am, mr. worley?
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Thanks. As I said, the lawnmower battery is only temporary and my new battery will be ordered Monday hopefully.
If your battery is in the trunk, you'd connect the negative remote terminal to any solid ground.
QUOTE(uberschall @ Apr 8, 2007 - 8:55 AM) [snapback]544492[/snapback]
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looks really good.
hope you don't plan on relying on that lawnmower battery in the winter, tho!
yet another question: if i put my battery in the trunk, and mount remote terminals like those in the engine compartment, and i only run the positive lead to the front, grounding the battery in the back...what do i connect the negative remote terminal to?
looks really good.
hope you don't plan on relying on that lawnmower battery in the winter, tho!
yet another question: if i put my battery in the trunk, and mount remote terminals like those in the engine compartment, and i only run the positive lead to the front, grounding the battery in the back...what do i connect the negative remote terminal to?
Thanks.
As I said, the lawnmower battery is only temporary and my new battery will be ordered Monday hopefully. If your battery is in the trunk, you'd connect the negative remote terminal to any solid ground.
New Toyota project coming soon...
its still a good idea to run a ground to the front of the car for the engine/pcm. both need a good clear strong ground.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
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The chassis of the car is a just as good of a conductor as any wire...all you really need is a solid ground to the chassis from the battery and then a solid ground from the engine/ecu to the chassis.
QUOTE(Bitter @ Apr 8, 2007 - 1:13 PM) [snapback]544542[/snapback]
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its still a good idea to run a ground to the front of the car for the engine/pcm. both need a good clear strong ground.
its still a good idea to run a ground to the front of the car for the engine/pcm. both need a good clear strong ground.
The chassis of the car is a just as good of a conductor as any wire...all you really need is a solid ground to the chassis from the battery and then a solid ground from the engine/ecu to the chassis.
New Toyota project coming soon...
I didn't think you could mount a coolent bottle low like that. I thought it would spill out all the time just from the pressure of gravity.
Live Free, Be Happy
coom..thouse battery terminals look gangsta lol. I like that idea.
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See, I'm not sure if I can. To me, it seems like it'd work though. The stock reservoir is pretty much in the same spot, except it has a tall fill spout. Instead of the tall fill spout, I'll just have a longer piece of tubing from the radiator to the reservoir. The amount of tubing will be the same as factory pretty much, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. But please, inform me, because I'm not sure on this.
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Thanks.
I got my clutch in the mail today...might install it tonight. I can re-use flywheel bolts, right? And what sort of Loctite should be used on them?
QUOTE(Bigmeanbulldog55 @ Apr 8, 2007 - 4:12 PM) [snapback]544580[/snapback]
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I didn't think you could mount a coolent bottle low like that. I thought it would spill out all the time just from the pressure of gravity.
I didn't think you could mount a coolent bottle low like that. I thought it would spill out all the time just from the pressure of gravity.
See, I'm not sure if I can.
To me, it seems like it'd work though. The stock reservoir is pretty much in the same spot, except it has a tall fill spout. Instead of the tall fill spout, I'll just have a longer piece of tubing from the radiator to the reservoir. The amount of tubing will be the same as factory pretty much, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. But please, inform me, because I'm not sure on this. >
QUOTE(Valo666 @ Apr 8, 2007 - 6:23 PM) [snapback]544606[/snapback]
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coom..thouse battery terminals look gangsta lol. I like that idea.
coom..thouse battery terminals look gangsta lol. I like that idea.
Thanks.
I got my clutch in the mail today...might install it tonight. I can re-use flywheel bolts, right? And what sort of Loctite should be used on them?
New Toyota project coming soon...
i wouldnt reuse them..and i would use red loctite. I would say go with a good set of APR ones.
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I reused mine, and then they broke and I had to buy a new flywheel and clutch. But you're not making the torque my mighty 5sfe is, you might be alright. I really wouldn't leave it to chance though.
QUOTE(Coomer @ Apr 9, 2007 - 5:47 PM) [snapback]544892[/snapback]
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I got my clutch in the mail today...might install it tonight. I can re-use flywheel bolts, right? And what sort of Loctite should be used on them?
I got my clutch in the mail today...might install it tonight. I can re-use flywheel bolts, right? And what sort of Loctite should be used on them?
I reused mine, and then they broke and I had to buy a new flywheel and clutch. But you're not making the torque my mighty 5sfe is, you might be alright. I really wouldn't leave it to chance though.
Live Free, Be Happy
Thanks for the input guys...I'll have to see if the dealer has them.
Also, just to confirm, these are the correct cylinder numbers, right? I just need to confirm that my injector wiring is correct before I loom up the engine harness.
Also, just to confirm, these are the correct cylinder numbers, right? I just need to confirm that my injector wiring is correct before I loom up the engine harness.
New Toyota project coming soon...
i think that is correct, do your injectors batch fire in pairs or sequentially?
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
i know on the 7afe....
the outter 2 cylinders were up, when the middle 2 where down
the outter 2 cylinders were up, when the middle 2 where down
Today I got a lot done. I started by dropping the flywheel off to get resurfaced.
Two hours and $34.08 later, there's what it looks like.
I then removed the damaged studs from the header. I let the studs soak in PB Blaster for a few hours, then two of them I was able to remove with vice grips. The third one wouldn't budge, so I took the angle grinder to it and ground down two of the sides. Then I stuck in the vice and turned the header and it came right off.
I then proceeded to work on the interior.
There's the interior with the heater and blower stuff, dash support, and dash itself. I'm going to hold off on putting the rest of it in until I can confirm that my all of my wiring changes are working correctly.
There's how I ran my four gauge wire into the car. There's a little nipple on the grommet that I just cut off, and then the wire slides right through. :thumbup:
And finally, I painted this motor mount so it'll look a bit better in the bay.
My flywheel bolts will be ordered tomorrow, so hopefully they come by Friday and I can get the motor back in this weekend.
I started by dropping the flywheel off to get resurfaced.Two hours and $34.08 later, there's what it looks like.
I then removed the damaged studs from the header. I let the studs soak in PB Blaster for a few hours, then two of them I was able to remove with vice grips. The third one wouldn't budge, so I took the angle grinder to it and ground down two of the sides. Then I stuck in the vice and turned the header and it came right off.
I then proceeded to work on the interior.
There's the interior with the heater and blower stuff, dash support, and dash itself. I'm going to hold off on putting the rest of it in until I can confirm that my all of my wiring changes are working correctly.
There's how I ran my four gauge wire into the car. There's a little nipple on the grommet that I just cut off, and then the wire slides right through. :thumbup:
And finally, I painted this motor mount so it'll look a bit better in the bay.
My flywheel bolts will be ordered tomorrow, so hopefully they come by Friday and I can get the motor back in this weekend.
New Toyota project coming soon...
looks good coom. Nice shiny flywheel. Are you gonna wrap your headers? or paint em? or both?
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they look like mild steel, wrap would be a bad idea. i wonder how it'd run with the longer runners of the ebay header on there. looks like all it'd need is a flange swap. the longer runners might give it a little more torque, the diameter between the 2 looks about the same.
QUOTE(Valo666 @ Apr 10, 2007 - 1:13 PM) [snapback]545213[/snapback]
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looks good coom. Nice shiny flywheel. Are you gonna wrap your headers? or paint em? or both?
looks good coom. Nice shiny flywheel. Are you gonna wrap your headers? or paint em? or both?
they look like mild steel, wrap would be a bad idea. i wonder how it'd run with the longer runners of the ebay header on there. looks like all it'd need is a flange swap. the longer runners might give it a little more torque, the diameter between the 2 looks about the same.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
there would be something funny about yellow headers (granted you painted them yellow) but then again it'd look pretty presidential at the same time... you dont see alot of that.
**If you play My Brute, joing the 6gc.net clan!**--A section of a kid's actual test that had been scanned--