nice work man, looks good

here's two pics to show the current state:



still needs the BOV put on, the gauges and SAFCII hooked up, the longer drain line made and installed, a battery and installation of that, an intake which I hope to pick up today, and I need one more T-bolt clamp cause for some reason I have an odd number of them and came up one short. I'm pretty sure the battery will still fit in the engine bay, the routing of the IC piping I chose really leaves a lot more room in that area. I just need to go back later and do a better job at hiding a bunch of wires around that area. anyway, I probably won't get much time this weekend to work on it, but I hope to have it done next week fingers crossed

(take note of how shiny the starter is! lol, I had to buy a new one because the other one was destroyed as a result of my electrical "problem")

what did u use to clean off all those surfaces ? engine degreaser?

>
brake parts cleaner. IMO it works better than engine degreaser.

update! last night I got an intake set-up put together, and then I hooked a battery up to my car. with my fingers crossed, I hooked it up and just hoped for the best. nothing! no burning, no smoking, nothing went wrong! I got in, turned the key to the ON position, and my radio works, my headlights work, everything appears to work!!! this is great news as it means I didn't fry every electrical component on my car! the car is only days away now. I got my new oil drain line today, I just have to put that on, wire up the SAFC II and my gauges, and fill it with some fluids and it'll be ready to start!

good to hear man...glad you didnt give up after your first try

[/quote]
guy, are you thick headed.
the person who REBUILDS these turbos, who has been doing them for years, swears by no larger than 3an.
especially in a car that overfeeds the turbo as it is, why would you use a larger line??
ive been running mine for 2.5+ years.
have you read arts sig lately?

[/quote]

It's beyond me how he went with that craziness. It's such a simple, hiccup-free process to get the right size of lines. The info is everywhere on the forums.

I plan to get an early start tomorrow morning and get it all finished up as much as I can. I hope to have it started by tomorrow night, but no promises.

as for my feed line, has anyone ever even tried anything other than a -3AN on a 5sfte before? besides, the difference between -3AN and -4AN is a mere 1/16th of an inch O.D. the inner diamter on AN hoses can vary.
-http://en.wikipedia.org+

>
your a meatball man.
people have tried all KINDS of hoses for feed lines.
you think i just chose 3an line as a figure i pulled out of my head?
there is a REASON.
when the guy who rebuilds ct-26's for a LIVING tells you to use 3an, do you say, well, 4an will be fine..?

>

wow dude, be easy on the guy. do you take the word of everyone you meet and read about online without asking a question or two? i mean you've said on the forums your just another guy like us learning as you go. hes learning. your right -3an is the best generic answer to use.

as for 6strngs, what presure2 means to say is the -3an is the best gauranteed answer to work. a -4an line with a restrictor without knowing exactly the size of the hole in that particular restrictor, you wont know for sure your getting the right flow. SO he "STRONGLY SUGGESTS" you run a -3an.... END OF DISCUSSION.

and please no more "are you dense?!" comments. help is help. bashing is bashing.

He is not bashing him. It just gets on his nerves that he's giving him the right info in a very streamlined manner, and the guy keeps arguing and trying to do his own thing. Just because he's learning about the 5S-FE doesn't mean he doesn't have vast knowledge of turbo system components, like for instance, AN lines. What is your "and please no more "are you dense?!" trying to mean? What are you going to do if he doesn't stop? I don't think you're in the right position to tell the man what to do. I think you need to stay in your corresponding lane.

>

those comments by manny are completely unnecessary, especially from a mod representing the site meatball? are we in middle school? theres no need for name-calling when youre trying to help someone. manny might be right about the AN lines but celicast3sgte is right in the way to handle it.

hes called him a meatball and something else so far. that by my books isnt helping. and presure2 gave his advice and 6strngs asked a question. which was (why wont -4an line with a restrictor work?). A VALID QUESTION. and i didnt say presure2 was wrong, i agree with him even. but the man asked a question and presure2 gave a rude response.

and who are you to tell me what i can or cannot say? your in the same position as i am dude. so dont act all high and mighty. i said what i said because i dont believe hes helping with those words. not saying he isnt helping with his suggestion. but calling him a meatball doesnt get his point out better or help 6strngs understand WHY he should run a -3an oil feed. so instead of protecting your buddy. think about the topic at hand. and ill say it again... "(PLEASE!)"

your the only one making statements, i made a request.

You need thick skin on the Internet. Just because it reads rude doesn't mean it is. Do you imagine myself with a pissed-off face typing this at you? Maybe, maybe not. Some people here have very short e-fuses. Another hobby might be better for those, in order to keep their stress levels at a minimum.

>
Thank you! I don't see a need for the name calling. I understand where you're coming from and I don't disagree that a -3AN hose would be better. However, I believe I will be able to get away with using a -4AN hose without any issues. The hole through the restrictor will be the same size no matter the size of the hose and the same amount of oil will be let through as the oil pressure will not be changed any. The reason I went with the larger hose was because it was what came with the kit I bought and I got this kit for a very good price. If there are any issues down the road I will swap out the hose for a -3AN. IN fact, for all I know, it actually already is a -3AN hose. The drain line he sent me he told me was a -10AN but when I compared it to my -10AN oil filter relocation lines, it was smaller, not much, but a little. and this feed line does not seem any bigger than the -3AN feed line I had before. But in any case, I'd like to keep this civil. We're all adults here and I really don't want to see this thread closed.

Now, for the news you've all been really waiting for! The car runs!!! Started it up tonight! I put a nice new optima red-top battery in there and got my SAFC all wired up. finished up the last couple of things and fired away! The best news yet is that there are no leaks! well, a small coolant leak sprung before I started the car, but it was easily trace-able and I just needed to tighten down two bolts and it was fine after that. of course, the real test will be after the car fully warms up. however, I still need to wire in my gauges before I do anything else. I need to be able to monitor my oil pressure and air-fuel ratio at the least before I'd feel safe letting the car run for more than a minute or two. The only problem is, as soon as I tried to rev the car it bogged and died. I don't think it's a map sensor issue, because the car idled fine. I don't think I properly set-up the SAFC yet though. I kind of regret going with the SAFCII instead of the NEO this time around. The SAFC was way cheaper and can measure knock, but the Neo was much more user friendly and it looked way nicer IMO. oh well, as long as the car runs good I can always upgrade later. I plan to put a couple more hours into it tomorrow and I definately plan on getting the gauges in and hope to get it running smoothly so I can take it for a test drive. then I just need to replace the seals between the axle and transmission as it's leaking transmission fluid, but it has been ever since I removed the transmission because I think I broke the seals. There are seals between the transmission and the axles, right? if not, what keeps the fluid from leaking out? cause whatever it is I broke it and I need to know what it is before I can replace it.

i called him a meatball, cause ive said to HIM SPECIFICLY time and again, USE 3an line, USE stainless braided hoses blah blah blah.
it gets old repeating the same damn things over and over again, only to have someone say, well, yea, im just gonna use 4an...or whatever...
dude, this is PROVEN.
use what works.

how did you hook your safc up...95% of ppl dont do it right...of course i fell into that category, but hey im up and running at last

>
I'm not really sure what you mean. I hooked it up following the guide in the stickies and I soldered and heat shrinked all the connections.

Presure2, I heard you the first time and I took it into consideration. But I've also given reasons why this way should also work which you have not had a reply as to why it wouldn't. You are merely repeating yourself and the only back-up you have for your statement is that it's the right thing to use because you, or somebody else who rebuilds these turbos for a living, says that it's best. I know that that set-up works but who's to say this set-up won't also work? And I know this couldn't be what you mean, but the way it's coming out, it sounds like you're saying that it's best simply because it's what you have. I'm sure that couldn't be what you're trying to say, but that's how it's sounding because it's impossible to show tone of voice through the internet.

>
it has nothing to do with "me" having it.
i did almost 2 YEARS of research before i turboed.
the info i have is from ATS racing, who builds ct-27's, 3sgtes ect all day,
"noshoes" bryan moore (who incase you didnt know, is one of the PREMIER 3sgte tuners in the USA, as well as John stannson, another very reputable 3sgte tuner) , ken blake, and several others, all of whom have been doing this kind of stuff LONG before you or i were.
its not something i came up with on a whim, or read in a post on the internet.
these guys i've spoken with HAVE used, researched and tried about every combination of lines and fittings there is to fit that need.
its not that your setup "wont" work, it will. its just not the "optimal" setup for the ct-26 turbo.
will it hurt? cant say. i personally hope it doesnt, and you are up and running for years to come.
however,
I, without a doubt, can say i was told by the person who rebuilt my turbo (ATS racing) to use NO LARGER (and yes, he did use caps too when he told me! haha) than -3an line, WITH a restrictor.
and it has worked FLAWLESSLY for over 2 1/2 years, 35,000+ miles, for me.
i would trust that over a guess any day.

*grabs popcorn*

*grabs meatball*

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Nov 30, 2007 - 6:15 PM

The number one reason why celica turbo kit projects have failed was always due to people cutting corners. They either cheap out on an oil line, or never make any attempt to properly tune the car. Trying to save 50bucks here and there will just end up costing you hundreds in the future.

Well, the car runs! When we had started it before, the negative battery terminal was not tight at all. this way we could disconnect it quick in case of emergency. well, when I had revved before, the vibration must've knocked it loose or something because I tightened it up and then started it and it worked fine! I gave a couple revs, and I'm a bit surprised to say that the blow off valve blows off even when the car is not under load! and it sounds amazingly good! I only revved to about 3500 and it blew off very nicely. I'm really glad I decided to spend the extra money on a genuine HKS and not a knock-off BOV.

anyway, I wanted to finish up the gauges tonight, and I did but when I turned the key only one came on I got frustrated and gave up for the night, but it should be on the road before the end of the weekend.

amazing! Half a month, little arguing, little TLC, and you got a running 5sfte.

come do mine.

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if you buy all the parts, buy me a plane ticket, pay me for all the time I take off work, and pay all my necessary expenses such as housing and food while I'm down there, and sure, I'll come put yours together

>


Jeez that's going to cost more than putting the kit together himself. LOL. Congrats on the turbo. Post some action vids dood.

wait... i thought a bov ISN'T supposed to go off if ur just revving it in ur garage...

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Dec 1, 2007 - 1:02 PM

Technically if you're reving you're building boost.

the HKS bov reacts way different from your typical BOV (greddy or blitz) it is a pull type meaning activated by the little vacum like you hook up to it. not by the boost finally over powering your spring and opening the valve. in theory it will blow off everytime you let off the throttle completely.

an engine under no load still spins the turbo but wont build any ammount of boost pressure to speak of, but enough to make the cool noise. lol

>
meh, $600 tops on airfare, $150 for me to take 3 days off work, and maybe $400 tops for me to have a hotel and food for 3 days, so $1150 for a turbo install in 3 days, provided you have all the parts, that's less than what a shop would probably charge for this kind of install.

two piccys for you. one was taken on thursday before it was all complete, the other was taken yesterday.



I'm planning on getting the gauges in tomorrow and taking it for a drive