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thats why wd40 is the best thing. its a thin penetrating oil that wont clog them up like motor oil could, yet it will lube them up enough so that they wont get damaged as you push them into the rail. i used it on my injectors and never had any issues.

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 6, 2007 - 1:12 PM

I think a lot of people here are spoiled because you have to be pretty nice in everything you say and aren't used to what the real world is like. There was an uproar because someone got called a meatball, I mean...wow.

The internet isn't a place for the thin skinned.

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 6, 2007 - 1:20 PM

Everyone is just trying to help out. I think what pisses people off is when they tell you something and you do something else. THEN you come back and complain why this and why that, when they already told you.

So, on tuesday I pulled the injector and noticed the ring was broken, so that same day I went to a parts store and was able to get a new one. but by the time I got back, thanks to rush hour traffic, it was dark and I had to go to school only an hour later so I figured I would do it the next day, then I remembered I had plans for that day, so I told myself I'd do it today, but now it's raining and I don't want to get wet and I don't want to push the car into the garage by myself... so yet again it's not getting done. all I have to do is put a freaking injector back in. it would take like half an hour at most. just can't find the opportune moment.

push it into the garage...and get this thing done! a little rain never hurt anybody

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X2!!
yo, (sorry, dont know your real name..lol) 6strings, i may come off as a bit of a jerk most of the time, but its only cause im trying to help. i wanna see you be another one of the "team 5sfte" again!
i think most of the people here that actually know me would tell ya, i'll try and help ya anyway i can, if i can. even IF i come off as a dick.
lol

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by myself? the driveway is pretty steep, I highly doubt I'd be able to get the car up there unless I pushed it way over to the other side of the street to let it pick up speed, but then I'd for sure scrape the exhaust, if not the front bumper, on the driveway. once this car gets lowered I don't think it'll ever see the garage again, why do you think I've been trying to get all my engine work done before lowering it? lol, I'm jk of course. anyway, I'm gonna do it tomorrow rain or shine.

Manny, I know. This is why I did not respond to any of your posts angrily. I know you are genuinely trying to help me, as you've done many times in the past. I've learned a vast majority of my 5sfte knowledge from your thread and from asking you questions. So, no hard feelings?
My name's Nathan, btw

well, I put it back together today. I got fed-up with having to wrench away at those two bolts that hold the fuel line in place so I went out and bought a wratcheting wrench. No I didn't have any before, and now I know what I've been missing! It normally took me like 15-20 minutes to get those two bolts in or out cause a ratchet can't fit in there, this time it took less than 2 anyway, I got everything fixed that I wanted to. in fact, I even was able to fix my alarm which had been broken since before I had even turbo-ed because I couldn't figure out why it was broken. I know I had shorted two wires accidentally, but I had checked all fuses and nothing was blown. well, while I had the engine in shambles I discovered a well-hidden wire that definately does not seem stock and it had a fuse outside the main fuse boxes, well, replaced that fuse and it works now. lol

The only thing I'm severly pissed about is that my wideband gauge is no longer working! the gauge gets power, but the signal is all F'ed up. it would read some wierd things like saying I was super lean at idle even though I could smell the gas and I knew I was super rich. then it worked for a bit and told me I was at a 13.7 AFR after I had leaned out idle about to get the car to smooth out, so that seemed right. but then at times is would just sit at some strange number like 14.1 and just stay there at idle, low, and full throttle. I checked all the connections for the signal and it should be working right. I'm wondering if the tip of the sensor is too fouled to get a good reading (it was very black from me running so rich), or if the sensor itself was somehow damaged in the time it spent out of my car... I dunno, but this gauge was expensive and I'm very sad it's not working.

anyway, no more gas leaks, no more coolant leaks, but some oil leaks have reared their ugly heads. The first time around, for the filter relocation kit, I had put teflon tape on all the threads and it never leaked from any threads, then I was told that teflon tape should only be used on the AN threads and not the NPT threads, so I put teflon only on the AN threads this time around and now it's not leaking from any AN threads, but it's leaking from ALL the NPT threads on the relocation kit and the oil drain line... it's not soo bad though. As long as I top it off with oil every day it should be ok to drive short distances. I might try to get teflon tape on all those NPT threads tomorrow after work, but we'll see.

only other thing is, I need to find some uber small hose clamps or somthing, cause my car likes to blow vacuum lines off the intake manifold! I noticed while I was driving it that my BOV stopped working and I could hear compressor surge, and then my car wouldn't idle lower than 2000 rpms. I blew the vacuum hose for the BOV off, and for the idle control valve. lol.

you can use zip ties on the vac lines.

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nate,
you have the teflon tape thing backwards.
you never have to use tape on AN fittings, they are a pressure fit.
NPT on the other hand, requires the thread tape.

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thanks for the info. I dhould've double checked on that, I could've sworn you said it the other way around, but I went back and looked just now and you did say that it needed it on the NPT threads and not AN. doh!

well, I haven't updated in a couple days. why? because it's ran the whole weekend without any problems! I teflon taped the NPT threads and no more oil leaks! I don't know why, but it's got a slow coolant leak from the oil cooler line I replaced. I couldn't say why, but the leak slowed down as the car warmed up. I'm not going to bother with it right now. I'll get to it eventually. Now I just have to get the transmission fluid leaks taken care of and it'll be ready to roll! I mean, roll reliably. I've driven it over 55 miles so far this weekend with no troubles at all! I'm very happy now I just need some wide sticky tires cause the tread on these 205s will be gone pretty quick with how much I'm spinning them!

btw, ignoring the day breaks and such, how long do u think it woulda taken ya if u did it all in day ? 6 hours ? prolly less right ?

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you mean to completely install the entire turbo kit? well, assuming you have EVERYTHING you need, including gaskets, hose clamps, zip ties, wire, solder, tools, etc. I'd say at least a weekend's worth. I had installed everything I could before hand. the AFC, the gauges, etc. and when I did it the first time it took about three days of about 12+ hours each. but this included breaks and running to the parts store several times. I'm sure it could be done in about 2 days if you have everything you need. I recommend a set of metric wratcheting wrenches if you don't already have some, makes things move a lot quicker. of course, you could probably drastically cut that time down if you have air tools as well. I don't

anyway, I just wanted to mention that I did a few pulls today while keeping a close eye on the boost gauge. on the freeway I did a 5th gear pull to 100 and noticed my boost went up to about 11-12! and in third gear it peaked about 10. this is what I wanted to turn the boost up to AFTER I had installed water/methanol injection. I thought the internal wastegate was only supposed to allow 7-8 PSI? Oh well though, I'm not too worried. I don't really ever give it full throttle because I really don't need to to go pretty damn fast! half to 3/4 throttle and shifting at 4,000 at around 4-5 PSI is plenty quick! I really need a turbo timer though, sitting in the car for a minute each time I drive hard gets old fast

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is it holding the higher boost or is it spiking temporarily? if its holding, thats boost creep, and you need a larger wastegate.

This post has been edited by celicaST: Dec 11, 2007 - 11:21 AM

cant really do that i believe with the ct26...

mine creeps up to 10psi if i have a hose on the wastegate uncapped. Just go back and check everything and make sure there is no open hose or anything.

Free flowing exhaust + cold weather = Boost creep.

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I do not have the other line that supposed to go to the TVIS capped. would doing so fix it? I kinda don't want to fix it though. I don't want to do something to make the car slower! lol

should I be worried that at idle, after the car has been fully warmed up, the oil pressure gauge is only reading 1-2 PSI? I know the gauge works, it reads between 20 and 40 while cruising (depending on the throttle position), and when the car first starts up it's up to about 50. but after warmed up it's extremely low. seems way below normal, even dangerus, to me. I checked my oil level and it's barely lost any. couldn't hurt to put another 1/4 quart in, but it's not super low or anything.

another thing that I haven't been able to figure out. While cruising at part throttle, every now and then it kinda feels like the car loses all power for a second or so just randomly. Like, I'll just be cruising along, and all the sudden it'll feel like I hit a brick wall and the car feels like it has no power. this lasts for maybe a second at a time at the most, sometimes it's super quick though and kinda feels like you just hit a bump in the road. It never does it during higher throttle like 50% or higher, just when cruising. It did this before when I had the turbo running months ago, I just never mentioned it cause I was worrying about other things. any thoughts? Edit: oh yeah, when it does this, the boost gauge shows no change, the oil pressure gauge shows no change, my tachometer doesn't really show a change except that the car decelerates a little. when the wideband was working, it didn't show a change either. my first thoughts were an excessively rich or lean condition, but that would show up on the wideband, the engine starving for air , but again, that would show up on the boost gauges. Now I'm thinking it has to do with spark. either it misfires, the timing is off, or it's getting detonation. either that, or something smog related like EGR, or PCV which would allow exhaust gas or oil vapor into my combustion chamber and lower the octane of the fuel.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Dec 12, 2007 - 4:06 AM

like a stutter step almost.......sounds familiar. If its what your talking about, then you just have to learn to drive around it...took me a while. Ask manny, i think he has come up with the reason why it does this.

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wow, I wasn't expecting it to be a common problem. it doesn't really bother me, the only thing that bothered me was that I thought something was wrong with my car!

it might not be the same thing, but it has something to do with the timing i beleive. Its at the point where the fuel doesnt know whether to be sent or not. Like at 25 percent throttle and under. Manny please correct me, i know you know the full reason lol.

are you driving your car without it being tuned?

who, me?...no, its tuned

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Have my 3" full exhaust since Monday. No boost creep issues whatsoever. Stock boost values 0.6 bar in 1st and 0.85bar in the rest of the gears.

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sorta, I remember the settings I had in it before for my high throttle map cause I actually had those written down. It still ran pretty rich with that tune, about 10.3-10.0 but it was better than un-tuned. for low throttle. I know I had up to 50% pulled out at certain RPM before. I know I had about 35% pulled at idle and like 45% at 2K and from there it was between 40-50% for the rest of the low throttle. well, I just pulled 35% at idle (I started with 30, but it didn't idle too good, I just pulled until it smoothed out and it happened to be right at where I had it before.) then for 1K-3500 I just pulled about 25%-30%. the rest of the low throttle is untuned but I don't take it past 3500 at part throttle anyway. and I've been shifting at around 4500 under high throttle. I know I shouldn't be tuning without the wideband, which is why I gave myself a pretty big safety net. better rich than lean. I want to get it tuned, but I want to get water/methanol injection before I do. but I don't have any money due to christmas and such. I'm going to see what AEM's warranty on the wideband is and see if they'll fix or replace it for me.