Thanks both of you... updates to come soon (hopefully)
Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion - 6G Celicas Forums
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I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate?
>... I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't.
I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate?
I believe that's untrue because there have been members on here before who have had problems with one switch while the other works fine.
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You are correct Griffy. What I was saying is that if you disconnect your PS switch the DS window will still work but the PS won't from either side. If you disconnect the DS switch neither side will work at all [Similar to the retarded child lock on the window which will not allow your DS window to work either - WTF is that all about? Like the kid can't reach over and turn the switch back on? LOL - that wouldn't stop my kids
].
I am available to you 24-7 on this issue girl - you know that. LMK when you get ready to start up that mess again. [Actually the GF is doing some more Gothic Modeling crap tonight so if you need me - call]
This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 19, 2008 - 3:16 PM
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I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate?
>... I'm pretty sure it's a matter of having everything wired up [Pass side too] before it will work. Remember we tried all that by disconnecting my stuff one peice at a time and seeing what would work and what wouldn't.
I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate?
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>I believe that's untrue because there have been members on here before who have had problems with one switch while the other works fine.
You are correct Griffy. What I was saying is that if you disconnect your PS switch the DS window will still work but the PS won't from either side. If you disconnect the DS switch neither side will work at all [Similar to the retarded child lock on the window which will not allow your DS window to work either - WTF is that all about? Like the kid can't reach over and turn the switch back on? LOL - that wouldn't stop my kids
I am available to you 24-7 on this issue girl - you know that. LMK when you get ready to start up that mess again. [Actually the GF is doing some more Gothic Modeling crap tonight so if you need me - call]
This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 19, 2008 - 3:16 PM
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
How is this project going? 
I heard about a guy here i Norway which got this conversion done by Toyota itself.
I heard about a guy here i Norway which got this conversion done by Toyota itself.
I'm bumping my old thread back from the dead.
Here's the update: I've been driving around with the driver's side window basically not working for the past year. (the passenger window is still manual)
I've used a DEI 530T (alarm/window/locks module) to power the motor and switches, but something isn't right because there's no power going to the switches. If I ground the orange "arm when grounded" wire, it will power the window down. The red wire powers it up. It's an all around ghey setup.
So 2 weeks ago I decided to take another crack at it. I took everything apart that I'd wired up, and checked all my connections. I downloaded the wiring diagram for the DEI530T, and the electrical wiring diagrams for power windows on a Celica, as well as someone's how-to instructions off a Mazda forum IIRC. I've wired it all up correctly, but still, no dice.
I went to see a guy who basically specializes in automotive electrical stuff, and he agrees that I've wired it up correctly, and saw that there's power going to the passenger switches (remember, p/s isn't hooked up though) but no power to the d/s switches. This is all from the d/s master switch.
My next step is to try to figure out which wires that come from the door harness are those for the d/s window switches, and get power to those. But then that will leave me with the door locks and the side view mirrors to wire up. And thus, still fairly clueless.
I have the donor car dash harness and the blue door control relay - which is where I think everything wires to anyway.
Is there anyone out there who can help me figure out which wires from the door harness go to which pins on the door control relay? I can provide photos, wiring diagrams, etc. Basically I want to make a harness that goes from the door harness to the door control relay and splice the passenger door in so it's operational from that side as well. I've pretty much already figured out which color wires from the driver's side door harness control what, as in which wires control the locks, the mirrors, passenger window, driver's window, etc. I just need to know where they go into the blue relay.
Here's the update: I've been driving around with the driver's side window basically not working for the past year. (the passenger window is still manual)
I've used a DEI 530T (alarm/window/locks module) to power the motor and switches, but something isn't right because there's no power going to the switches. If I ground the orange "arm when grounded" wire, it will power the window down. The red wire powers it up. It's an all around ghey setup.
So 2 weeks ago I decided to take another crack at it. I took everything apart that I'd wired up, and checked all my connections. I downloaded the wiring diagram for the DEI530T, and the electrical wiring diagrams for power windows on a Celica, as well as someone's how-to instructions off a Mazda forum IIRC. I've wired it all up correctly, but still, no dice.
I went to see a guy who basically specializes in automotive electrical stuff, and he agrees that I've wired it up correctly, and saw that there's power going to the passenger switches (remember, p/s isn't hooked up though) but no power to the d/s switches. This is all from the d/s master switch.
My next step is to try to figure out which wires that come from the door harness are those for the d/s window switches, and get power to those. But then that will leave me with the door locks and the side view mirrors to wire up. And thus, still fairly clueless.
I have the donor car dash harness and the blue door control relay - which is where I think everything wires to anyway.
Is there anyone out there who can help me figure out which wires from the door harness go to which pins on the door control relay? I can provide photos, wiring diagrams, etc. Basically I want to make a harness that goes from the door harness to the door control relay and splice the passenger door in so it's operational from that side as well. I've pretty much already figured out which color wires from the driver's side door harness control what, as in which wires control the locks, the mirrors, passenger window, driver's window, etc. I just need to know where they go into the blue relay.
bump
surely there has to be someone out there who can read these electrical wiring diagrams better than I can and interpret them into a language I can understand
Hell, I'll even settle for pictograms if it'll work
anyone?
surely there has to be someone out there who can read these electrical wiring diagrams better than I can and interpret them into a language I can understand
Hell, I'll even settle for pictograms if it'll work
anyone?
U should check out the partnumber NONG0-00393.15
I was told it is a conversion kit to our cars, which contains all that we need to convert from manual to power. I did not get any information from my Toyota what the kit contained, so if some of you could get that information, I would appreciate that. Maybe thats the only thing we need to buy!
I was told it is a conversion kit to our cars, which contains all that we need to convert from manual to power. I did not get any information from my Toyota what the kit contained, so if some of you could get that information, I would appreciate that. Maybe thats the only thing we need to buy!
Not gonna go with a kit - I have everything I need to power it except for the &*$#ing technical electrical know-how! Argh!
Anyone? I KNOW FOR A FACT that this can be done using the Toyota door control module. I just need to know how to wire it together.
Anyone? I KNOW FOR A FACT that this can be done using the Toyota door control module. I just need to know how to wire it together.
Could you write a guide for this? It could be useful for me, and many others with the manual **** in our doors. Or a list with things that we need?
The electrical stuff should go nicely, since the cables are just plug and play? Or? Give a link to these diagrams, and I'll give it a shot. Maybe I'll understand them.
The electrical stuff should go nicely, since the cables are just plug and play? Or? Give a link to these diagrams, and I'll give it a shot. Maybe I'll understand them.
The problem is that it's NOT plug and play, otherwise I'd have been done with this a year ago. The car is not originally wired for power windows, which means that the wiring harness that runs through the dash is not the same as those that came with power windows. There is a socket missing, basically. (see past posts in this thread)
Once I've gotten this all done I'll do a complete write-up. For now, here's the short of it, up to the point I'm at now, where I'm stuck:
- take OEM Toyota Celica window rail, motor, door lock actuator, door wiring harness, interior door panel & switches from Celica with power windows and swap them all into Celica to be converted.
- Figure out way to power all of this.
It can be powered using DEI-530T if you aren't me and can figure out where you went wrong according to the wiring diagram for it, and a helpful guide that was written by a guy on ClubRSX can be used to guide you along the way. It's helpful to have an electrical wiring diagram for our cars, too.
It seems that using the above information, I've done it correctly. But it still doesn't work.
So, plan B. I have the Door Control Module from another 6th gen, and using the EWD linked to above, am trying to figure out how to pin the wires from the door harness to the module, since the module originally was connected by a plug off the dash harness. Since my dash harness does not have this plug, as it is different from the harness w/power windows, I'm basically trying to bridge the two.
Once I've gotten this all done I'll do a complete write-up. For now, here's the short of it, up to the point I'm at now, where I'm stuck:
- take OEM Toyota Celica window rail, motor, door lock actuator, door wiring harness, interior door panel & switches from Celica with power windows and swap them all into Celica to be converted.
- Figure out way to power all of this.
It can be powered using DEI-530T if you aren't me and can figure out where you went wrong according to the wiring diagram for it, and a helpful guide that was written by a guy on ClubRSX can be used to guide you along the way. It's helpful to have an electrical wiring diagram for our cars, too.
It seems that using the above information, I've done it correctly. But it still doesn't work.
So, plan B. I have the Door Control Module from another 6th gen, and using the EWD linked to above, am trying to figure out how to pin the wires from the door harness to the module, since the module originally was connected by a plug off the dash harness. Since my dash harness does not have this plug, as it is different from the harness w/power windows, I'm basically trying to bridge the two.
Hi! I've been thinking about this swap myself, and i thought i might just share my thoughts around the wiring.
I recon that in theory, the only thing the complete window-wiring needs from the car, is a constant +12v current
when the doors are unlocked.
Do you think you could find where in the harness needs to be connected too? so you could connect it
directly to a +12v source for testing. I don't know, just an idea.
If this dont work, maybe you could test the system step by step, starting with the motors connected directly to
a +12v source, and working your way out towards the original power source cord.
If you cant figure this out at all, maybe you could create your own simple control unit? using a 2-pole switch to switch
the polarity, and a push-button switch to activate to motor. connecting it directly to the motors, and connecting via a
proper fuse to the cars +12v source. For safety you could connect it to a source that only delivers current when the
car switch is on.
I hope this made a little sense:P just some thoughts.
I recon that in theory, the only thing the complete window-wiring needs from the car, is a constant +12v current
when the doors are unlocked.
Do you think you could find where in the harness needs to be connected too? so you could connect it
directly to a +12v source for testing. I don't know, just an idea.
If this dont work, maybe you could test the system step by step, starting with the motors connected directly to
a +12v source, and working your way out towards the original power source cord.
If you cant figure this out at all, maybe you could create your own simple control unit? using a 2-pole switch to switch
the polarity, and a push-button switch to activate to motor. connecting it directly to the motors, and connecting via a
proper fuse to the cars +12v source. For safety you could connect it to a source that only delivers current when the
car switch is on.
I hope this made a little sense:P just some thoughts.
Yes, a simple control unit can be created very easily. Right now my temporary setup uses a simple rocker panel switch (2 pole, yes), wired through the DEI 530T which acts as a relay for it.
It works, but it's not what I want. I want to wire this through the OEM switch panel.
oh yeah - and the relay is fused w/a 20 amp fuse and wired directly to the constant, so it works w/out the car needing to be on and w/out any safety concerns. Actually I prefer it that way!
This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jun 17, 2009 - 1:15 PM
It works, but it's not what I want. I want to wire this through the OEM switch panel.
oh yeah - and the relay is fused w/a 20 amp fuse and wired directly to the constant, so it works w/out the car needing to be on and w/out any safety concerns. Actually I prefer it that way!
This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Jun 17, 2009 - 1:15 PM
nice:)
But do you think you could separate the oem switch panel from the rest of the harness\circuit? and create your own harness using oem switch panel only?
This post has been edited by skogs: Jun 18, 2009 - 2:22 AM
But do you think you could separate the oem switch panel from the rest of the harness\circuit? and create your own harness using oem switch panel only?
This post has been edited by skogs: Jun 18, 2009 - 2:22 AM
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If you could, that would be the best solution. If the system works like stock, but is wired different, nobody will notice. Right? But maybe there are some wiring harness in the conversion kit..?
Does it exist some part database which show what it include on the internet? Maybe you could get some part numbers from there.
>nice:)
But do you think you could separate the oem switch panel from the rest of the harness\circuit? and create your own harness using oem switch panel only?
But do you think you could separate the oem switch panel from the rest of the harness\circuit? and create your own harness using oem switch panel only?
If you could, that would be the best solution. If the system works like stock, but is wired different, nobody will notice. Right? But maybe there are some wiring harness in the conversion kit..?
Does it exist some part database which show what it include on the internet? Maybe you could get some part numbers from there.
What?
there's no kit, not anything OEM or the likes thereof, otherwise I'd have finished this a year ago and wouldn't be insisting on wiring up my OEM door harness to an OEM door control module or the DEI 530T
Actually, there is. Just check the partnumber i gave you some few posts above! I checked it with my local Toyota, and they said it looked like a conversion kit from manual to electricial windows. Like the guy which gave me the number said to me. Its an original Toyota part, so this is OEM all the way i think.
I have not checked what the kit contains yet, but I will go to Toyota very soon and check it up.
This post has been edited by AnaXyd: Jun 19, 2009 - 2:27 PM
I have not checked what the kit contains yet, but I will go to Toyota very soon and check it up.
This post has been edited by AnaXyd: Jun 19, 2009 - 2:27 PM
I did check that part number and it appears to be something that's only available in Norway? Looks like it's some sort of dealer only thing, not a Toyota thing.
I've never seen manual windows & locks on a Celica before, do you have pics of the original setup?
Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs
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Hmm, sounds strange. I should check this up! And maybe I can get some sets shipped around!
The guy told me that this kit should contain everything thats needed to swap. The price was around 700-800. Yeh, its new parts..
>I did check that part number and it appears to be something that's only available in Norway? Looks like it's some sort of dealer only thing, not a Toyota thing.
Hmm, sounds strange. I should check this up! And maybe I can get some sets shipped around!
700-800 is absolutely and unequivocally out of the question.
So back to my original question, is there someone who can help me dissect some wiring diagrams?
So back to my original question, is there someone who can help me dissect some wiring diagrams?
I was just trying to help you out..
Drive to Texas - problem solved in 3,2...
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
Got the kit checked, and it sucks. A guy at Toyota got some information to me, and this kit is NOT original Toyota parts, but an aftermarked "addon" kit. So, lets forget that ****, and help GriffGirl out of this mess of a problem. I really want this power windows too, but it seems like it is really difficult to do.
ARTistic bump.
The window up/down switch has 4 wires:
1. Green with white stripe = connects to pin 1 on the window motor
2. Red with white stripe = Connects to pin 2 on the window motor
3. White with green stripe = connects to a switched 12v source that comes from the power main relay
4. White with black stripe = connects to the "power window master sw" pin 3.
1. Green with white stripe = connects to pin 1 on the window motor
2. Red with white stripe = Connects to pin 2 on the window motor
3. White with green stripe = connects to a switched 12v source that comes from the power main relay
4. White with black stripe = connects to the "power window master sw" pin 3.
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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It was the Door Control module I was looking to get the pinouts for
>The window up/down switch has 4 wires:
1. Green with white stripe = connects to pin 1 on the window motor
2. Red with white stripe = Connects to pin 2 on the window motor
3. White with green stripe = connects to a switched 12v source that comes from the power main relay
4. White with black stripe = connects to the "power window master sw" pin 3.
1. Green with white stripe = connects to pin 1 on the window motor
2. Red with white stripe = Connects to pin 2 on the window motor
3. White with green stripe = connects to a switched 12v source that comes from the power main relay
4. White with black stripe = connects to the "power window master sw" pin 3.
It was the Door Control module I was looking to get the pinouts for
