Any updates? I want power windows and doors and just found a celica with the premium 8 speaker set-up. What about just swapping the whole door out??

that seems id be easiest

If you'd want to swap the whole door out, I guess you could, although you'd still have to run the door harness into the interior through the A pillar. I myself didn't find it difficult at all to just swap out the manual window crank and rail with the power window rail and door card. Whatever you think is easier though; it's a matter of personal preference.

So I found out that ALL THIS TIME my door switch has been bad, which is why I've been stuck on this for SO long. I could just kick myself for not even thinking of that. Anyway, I've got a new master switch on its way to me and am SERIOUSLY hoping to wrap this up REALLY SOON since the rain "season" is going to start soon. (is it a season if it lasts for like 8 months?)

Anyway once you swap the door out or however you're going to do it, you still need to figure out a way to power it all, since the stock dash harness will not have the required plug-in in JB1 for the part of the door harness that controls the locks and window. You'll also need to reroute your side mirror wiring if you have power side mirrors (they all do, don't they?) since the master switch on the d/s door has the switch to operate the side view mirrors as well.

Updates, photos, and everything I know will follow as soon as I have it. I PROMISE.

heres a wiring diagram, just click power windows on the left hand side

http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/bgb...ewd/circuit.htm

This post has been edited by Cavegod: Sep 14, 2009 - 1:56 PM

Yeah I've got that, it's connecting what to what that I get stuck on, since the stock dash harness doesn't accommodate the power windows. You can use a DEI-530T though to wire in the door harnesses; this would've worked just fine for me when I started this last summer had I had the brains to look at what was right in front of me and test the switch!

Anyway I'm working towards wiring in the windows and locks to the Toyota factory relay (door control module) by making a custom harness to bridge the door harness to. So when I get that done, I'll have instructions for both methods, the DCM and the DEI-530T.

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Sep 14, 2009 - 2:02 PM

Bringing this back from the dead in hopes that someone who knows what they're looking at sees this and can help. Long story short, I've fabricated a harness from the donor car's dash harness to connect the door harnesses to the door control relay (DCM). It's pretty straight forward, but I'm not getting power to the motor and I'm not sure what I'm missing here.

Here's my connections, I'll base it on the pinout of the connector from the DCM as the "center" of the "tree":

1. RED/BLUE : RED/BLUE of diode
2. RED/YEL : to nothing. Diagram says "LEFT DOOR COURTESY SWITCH" ? Is this to unlock the door/s from the key?
3. BLU/RED : BLU/RED wires off p/s and d/s door harnesses (locks) - the thicker of the two blu/red
4. BLU/WH : BLU/WH d/s door harness
5. GRN/YEL : GRN/YEL d/s door harness
6. GRN : GRN p/s door harness
7. YEL : nothing. "UNLOCK WARNING SWITHCH" I have no idea what this is or where it goes. Or if I have this switch.
8. WHT/BLU : positive lead off the battery
9. GRY : GRY p/s door harness
10. BLU/BLK : BLU/BLK of p/s and d/s door harnesses
11. BLU : BLU of p/s and d/s door harnesses
12. BLU/ORG : BLU/ORG of p/s and d/s door harnesses
13. BLU/RED : BLU/RED d/s door harness (the thinner blu/red of the two)
14. RED/GRN : "DOOR COURTESY SWITCH RH" I have no idea what this connects to
15. BLU/YEL : BLU/YEL off the diode
16. WHT/BLK : ground

Leftover wires off the driver's side door harness:
GRN/WHT : GRN/WHT on p/s door harness
RED/BLU : RED/BLU on p/s door harness
WHT/GRN : WHT/GRN on p/s door harness, and then to Power Main Relay leg 3
WHT/BLK : Ground (but it's skinny - seems to skinny to be the only ground for the master switch?)

Result: DCM clicks when I use any of the switches, windows OR locks. But nothing else happens, no locks, no window up or down.

WHAT AM I MISSING!?!

Oh I forgot to add if anyone who is REALLY good with electrical sees this and is reading it, I can provide EWGs if you need, just lemme know!

i know the 7. YEL : "UNLOCK WARNING SWITHCH" is so if you leave the key in the ignition it knows and wont let the doors lock

Maybe I just don't have that thing it's supposed to connect to then.... but for my purposes right now, I don't need it.

What's my missing link otherwise here? Anyone? Am I missing a ground or something? When you guys w/power windows roll your windows up or down, can you hear the relay box clicking? Seems like it shouldn't be clicking the way it does. If I hold the switch in the up or down position and keep it there, the box just clicks clicks clicks.

the part you are missing is a blue box behind the dash most likely it controls the locking setup

>
Read my post! >

DCM is the blue box.

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Feb 27, 2010 - 7:46 PM

>

i didnt read your whole post and didnt know what the box was called. go wire by wire and check that they match the specs below from the bgb


D10, D11 DOOR COURTESY SW LH, RH
1–GROUND :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR OPEN
D13, D14 DOOR KEY LOCK AND UNLOCK SW LH, RH
1–2 :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR LOCK CYLINDER UNLOCKED WITH THE KEY
3–2 :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR LOCK CYLINDER LOCKED WITH THE KEY
D13, D14 DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW LH, RH
4–6 :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW AT UNLOCK POSITION
U 1 UNLOCK WARNING SW
2–1 :CLOSED WITH THE IGNITION KEY IN THE CYLINDER
D 7 DOOR LOCK CONTROL RELAY
11–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK CONTROL SW AT UNLOCK POSITION
10–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK CONTROL SW AT LOCK POSITION
1–GROUND :APPROX. 12 VOLTS WITH THE IGNITION SW AT ON POSITION
7–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE IGNITION KEY IN THE CYLINDER
6–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE LH DOOR AT UNLOCK POSITION
5–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE RH DOOR AT UNLOCK POSITION
9–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK KEY SW LH AT UNLOCK POSITION
13–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK KEY SW RH AT UNLOCK POSITION
12–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK KEY SW AT LOCK POSITION
16–GROUND:ALWAYS CONTINUOUS
8–GROUND :ALWAYS APPROX. 12 VOLTS


This post has been edited by bmj67: Feb 27, 2010 - 2:07 AM

>

You're not really supplying my part, I have one, you're supplying the backup one in the even I blow the first one out, or so I can use it as the sacrificial lamb and take it apart to figure out what's going on inside.

>

I know you didn't read the whole thing, sorry, I didn't mean to bite your head off. I'm just super frustrated with this project and need someone who can comb through what I posted above, interpret it, and tell me where I missed. I know it's a lot I'm asking, and time consuming. I just figured hey, it can't hurt to ask.

I have that info you posted above, but there's 2 problems... one is that that info presumes the car came equipped w/power windows/locks. Since mine didn't, my dash harness does not accommodate the power window equipped door harness, so I've basically hacked up the donor car door harness to fabricate a new harness to connect the doors to the DCM. Basically I took the end that the door harness would've connected to, and cut them off. Took the end that connects to the DCM, and cut it off. Took those three crazy monster legs and joined them together.

The other problem is that ^ that, above, that you posted, is basically greek to me. Were it not greek, would it still even apply necessarily, since I'm rigging up this harness all crazy-like?

then numbers are the pin number from the dcm setup if you look at the wiring diagram it will show the pin number and the wire coming off the box. so for example 8–GROUND :ALWAYS APPROX. 12 VOLTS you set the multimeter to voltage put one lead on the wire from pin 8 and one to ground and you should get 12 volts. it might be easier for you to troubleshoot if you work one side at a time so start on the ds and try to get it working then worry about the ps

I actually only have the driver's side installed, I've left the passenger side with the manual crank so that I'd at least have one window that went up and down!

bumping this for a certain snowed-in brainiac who I know will secretly like the challenge.

and actually, for that matter, I'll throw this out to the crazy smart cali man with the nice fast doggies.

yikes! i hate messing with wires. withoug being there there isnt much help i can do.

*cough*bump*cough

how is the conversion going i was thinking about doing it but looks painful

>

I'm not sure where you really are with the wiring of all of this, but I'm sure I can probably answer some specific questions.

>
I assume everything is wired just like the diagrams right ?
do you have the OEM wiring diagrams ? I can post everything up if you want.

Yes, it's wired like the diagrams (I have them, thank you)

So I wondered if I needed the passenger side to be wired in as well, and I actually had brought the p/s door harness out to the car, plugged in one end to the motor, the other to the p/s end of the harness I fabbed up, and got the same result. But knowing now that the p/s MUST be there definitely gets me one step closer, at least while trouble shooting it!

Question (and excuse my ignorance, again, I'm just completely mental when it comes to electrical stuff): you asked if I'm using a relay before the diode. Uh... how do I know if it's before or after the diode? I have the red/blue of the door harness connected to the red/blue of the diode; IIRC the blue/yellow goes to one leg of the relay.

I realized I forgot to post my connections to the relay. I don't remember off hand which goes to which leg, but I have it in the EWGs.

Relay: one leg gets the white/green wires off the door harness and off the DCM; one leg gets the pos lead off the battery, one gets the ground off the chassis, and one gets the blue/yellow off the door harness and off the DCM.

Should it be the red/blue instead of the blue/yellow to the power main relay?

bump?

the easier part will be just to get this harness...



sorry i cant help..

>

I have the dash harness from the donor car, it's what I used to fab the "bridge" harness from the door to the blue box. I cut off the part of the harness that connected to the blue box, cut off the part of the harness that runs to the JB where the door harness should have plugged in to on botht the d/s and p/s, and then figured out which wire went to which part of the blue box and soldered the 3 parts together.

There's a couple of reasons I didn't just swap out the dash harness all together to begin with, 1 being that it came out of an automatic, which concerned me a bit, another that IIRC the donor car is OBDII and mine is not, again, a compatibility/electrical gremlin concern and 3, that the idea of ripping out the dash was just not so appealing to me

>


So, back to that. Anyone have any suggestions?

Should be both. Looks like pin 1 RED/BLU goes to the diode then BLU/YEL out of the diode connects to pin 15 BLU/YEL before going to pin 1 of the power main relay.

once i dig into my blue car ill take a couple pics of my harness