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Okay I need to reiterate my understanding, just to make sure I understand that correctly (sorry, I really am challenged in that short-bus way here). (I haven't had to change any of the connections to the diode, so the wiring that comes out of the diode is exactly as it came off the donor dash harness.)

The BLU/YEL coming out of the diode connects to both pin 1 of the power main relay as well as pin 15 of the door control module?

And pin 1 RED/BLU goes from the diode to the door control module?

Do I have this correct?

edit: I'll try to remember to take pictures tonight, it'll probably be easier to explain or for me to understand with a visual.

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Mar 9, 2010 - 7:21 PM

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Yes. Take the blue/yellow wire that comes out of the diode and connect it to the blue/yellow wire that comes out of pin 15 of the door control module, then take that connection and stick it in pin 1 of the power main relay... then see what happens.

This post has been edited by hurley97: Mar 9, 2010 - 7:29 PM

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Damn, I was afraid you'd say that. That's how I had it before, and it made no difference.

Ok, I just didn't see where you had both of those connected to the power main relay and according to the wiring diagrams they should be. I'm not sure how you have everything or if the relay box is the same for non-power cause if the box is the same and you just put the relay in it that connection is made by a little metal wire in the box itself. I didn't know if you had everything out of the box or if you tried that already or not.

How do you have the power main relay hooked up?

This post has been edited by hurley97: Mar 9, 2010 - 7:55 PM

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I'm at work, so I don't have the stuff in front of me, but the way I had the power main relay hooked up was the BLU/YEL from the box and from the diode went to one leg of the power main relay, I had the positive connection to the battery (run through the firewall) to another leg of the pwr mn relay, ground to a third and I think there is a white with green wire that comes off the box and off the driver's side door harness connection (what would be in the junction box where the door harness plugs in) connected to the 4th leg of the power main relay.

I have the diagram for the power main relay connections, so while I don't remember which went to which pin, I did it according to the diagram.

I know I've put a lot to read here...

maybe it would help to point out that the point I'm at with it now is when I have everything connected, if I hit the switches on the master switch, the relay makes clicking sounds, it's just that nothing happens with the damn window.

I did connect the pos batt and the neg directly to the motor to verify that the motor is working properly, and indeed it is. I still just wonder if I'm missing a ground somewhere or something. Like, power is getting to the relay but not being returned "upstream" to the motor for lack of a better term.

There are a couple of grounds off the switch itself that dont run through the door lock control relay... have you checked those?
You have the wiring book and you aren't dumb so I assume you have everything hooked up ok, was there something you weren't sure about when you were doing it? Maybe start there.

Like everyone kept telling me when I wanted to do my auto to manual swap.... just buy another one that already has it....
lol, I didn't take that for an answer so I assume you won't either

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Damn right I won't.


The only thing I wasn't sure about seem to have been answered a few posts ago (page 5?), they're wires that make the thingie chime when your keys are in the ignition, that sort of stuff.

On the part of the door harness that connects to the switch itself, it looks like there are two grounds, both the heavier gauge white with black stripe. Where they correspond to the JB/pillar end of the harness and its connection to the "bridge" harness I made is a little puzzling to me. Again, w/out having it in front of me, I don't remember off the top of my head, but it seems like only 1 of those grounds to the switch actually grounds to the chassis, and the other (I want to say it's pin 9? I don't remember though) actually connects to the blue box.

I'll try to take some pictures tonight, maybe someone with fresh eyes will be able to spot something jumping out that I'm just overlooking.

Do you still have the manual door panels and crank?? lol. Wanna sell? I think ill just stick with good-old arm power the wiring seems to much trouble than its worth. :-/

I have both door panels and one crank, sold the other one.

Since im tearing apart my old celi for a parts car I took the time to take some pictures for you! Seems I have photos of parts you havent mentioned... then again I havent read the entire thread again.




The wires seem to go from that junction

Behind the dash

To the radio compartment

Behind the air conditioner stuff behind your glove box

To this box on the passenger side


There also seems to be this box behind the radio compartment that seems essential!
it says Door Control... sorry some of the photos are big I forgot to resize them.. hope this helps in that way you can help me accomplish what you have been trying to do for a lil over a year lol

ALSO i could take pictures of the entire loom outside of the car if you'd like im not sure how much help that would be to you though. The car im taking it off of is the black get in my profile picture it has the stock alarm which looks like its added alot of extra crap that im not sure of at all.

This post has been edited by lonewolf587: Mar 19, 2010 - 2:10 PM

Well the good new is that I have all those parts you so graciously photographed for me (thank you very much, by the way, much appreciated!). Since my stock dash harness isn't equipped for the power windows, I've had to fabricate a "bridge" harness to join the two door panel harnesses to the blue box (Door Control Module). Where I'm stuck is that I'm able to get power to the door control module, and the d/s master switch is sending a "signal" to it, but for some reason it's not returning that "signal" to the window motor.

I have tested and confirmed that the window motor works as it should, of this I'm 100% positive. There's just a missing link somewhere that I'm not seeing; not sure what it is yet. The weather here is supposed to stay good for the weekend, so I intend to dive back into it tomorrow afternoon and see what I can try to work out. I think it has something to do with either a missing ground or the placement of the Power Main Relay in conjunction with the "bridge" harness. But that's totally a guess at this point.

Come hell or high water, I WILL conquer this bitch! At this point it's not even so much as a matter of having power windows as it is just completing the project for the sake of accomplishing it. I will make this window my bitch if it's the last thing I do on this earth.

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Mar 19, 2010 - 2:13 PM

So from what we already went through it sounds like your power main relay is hooked up properly, plus you say you hear something clicking when you try the switch so I'd have to agree that there is power getting through...

Power Main Relay
pin 1 --> (blu/yel) pin 15 of door lock control relay
pin 1 --> (blu/yel) diode --> (red/blu) pin 1 of door lock control relay <-- power
pin 2 --> (white/black) ground <-- pin 16 of door lock control relay
pin 3 --> (white/green) pin 7 d/s power window switch --> pin 4 pass power window motor
pin 5 --> power

Grounds
Pin 16 off the door lock control relay
Pin 9 -- d/s power window sw
pin 2 -- door key lock and unlock sw right
pin 2 -- door key lock and unlock sw left
pin 9 -- d/s door lock control at power window master sw
pin 4 -- p/s door lock control sw
pin 6 -- d/s door lock motor
pin 6 -- p/s door lock motor

This post has been edited by hurley97: Mar 20, 2010 - 6:22 PM

I'd really like to see this finished and done... but just looking at the wiring harness makes me head spin. Hell even putting in a complete harness from another car is a daunting task. Hopefully someone on here figures this out!! lol

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you and me both, bruthuh

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I'm printing this off and taking it home with me to go through everything again, wire by wire. Those pinouts you listed above, they're from the door control module, correct?

the grounds are yes, the power main relay pins are from the relay unless otherwise stated

Wait, so all of those pins that you labeled as grounds should not be connected to their counterparts on the door harness, they should be grounded?

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what I meant was those are all the grounds in the system and what they come off of.

i.e.

pin 16 off the door lock control relay should be grounded
pin 9 off the driver side master window switch should be grounded
...etc...



sorry

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If the blu/yel coming off the diode connects to the red/blu off the DCM & then to the power main relay, what does the red/blu wire coming off the diode connect to, nothing?

One more question about the grounds, too. Are all of those wires cited labeled with what they DO or is that their location? Meaning, are those grounded wires coming off the part of the harness that connects to the door harnesses, or is it literally for example "cut the wire coming off of pin 9 of the d/s power window switch & ground it"? Couldn't I just ground pin 9 (blu/ora) of the connector that plugs into the d/s door harness?

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blu/yel off the diode connects to power main relay AND blu/yel going to pin 15 of the DCM
red/blu off the diode connects to power and pin 1 of the DCM


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they are all location of all the grounds. make sure the wire coming off of each of those pins at the listed location is grounded.

Hey didn't read your whole thread, so not sure where your at with the wiring. If you still need a car to check out plugs, wires, etc. I have a 98 vert. all elec. except mirrors, you can use. Work in Portland & it just sits for 9 hrs. any way.

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That's awesome, thanks for that offer. Looks like I've got the windows working now, just need to get everything situated in place now! Next is to figure out the locks and the mirrors, how to switch over the wiring to the master switch mirror control from the stock center dash panel switch.


So quick question for anyone who knows the answer to this - is there any point on the door itself that serves as a decent ground, or do I need to run the ground to the chassis through the A pillar? I need to ground those two wht/blk wires off the master switch, and this evening will be my ONLY window of opportunity (no pun intended) before the ridiculous rain starts up again.

And lastly, suppose I had an aftermarket alarm system installed, that has remote keyless entry... as long as the door lock actuators are in place, do I really need to worry about the wiring for them, or can I just have them basically rigged up if/when I get an aftermarket alarm system installed?

You got them working? Nice! What was the problem, if you don't mind me asking?

You should be able to use any metal point in the door, since it all connects to the chassis. Just scrape the paint away so it makes a good connection. If you are unsure just get a test light and put one side to power and the other to whatever point in the door you want to use as a ground, if it lights up its good.

Not sure what you are asking about the alarm situation but it sounds like you want to know if there's anything you need to consider right now while you are trying to make it all work. In that case I would say not at all, but you probably should install the alarm yourself since all that wiring you are doing now isn't factory and an installer may not be able to locate the correct wires or may have a difficult time with it.

Okay, so basically the only problem was exactly what I thought it was - I was missing a ground to the master switch. It was those two wht/blk ones coming off the switch. I wound up cutting them from the door harness (since they branch of somewhere, I don't know where they actually *end* per se) and grounding them, and POOF! The windows worked.

Now I did something different; I followed your outline of what gets grounded, etc that you'd posted, but I got absolutely nothing, no power to the relay, switch, nothing. Could be that I did something wrong, there was that confusion about the blu/yel & red/grn wires to the diode and the power main relay... etc. So I backtracked to what I KNEW made power to the relay, and what wound up working was to connect the wht/grn wires off the harness & off the DCM directly to the fused battery lead I ran, and then of course to ground the master switch & the DCM to a ground lead I ran through the firewall off the strut tower (I did this a few weeks ago to eliminate any possibility that I just had a bad ground). Both windows worked just fine this way; so I played around with it some more and found that I didn't need the power main relay at all, they still worked just the same. Go figure? I dunno... the battery lead is fused, so I'm thinking as long as that's fused, I should be safe without the power main relay in terms of any concern about overdrawing amps or anything. Correct me if I'm wrong of course.

So it's been raining like a MOTHER (from what I hear, you're experiencing this too on your side of the country) and I haven't been able to actually get outside to permanently affix the harness up under the dash. So I'm still riding w/out power windows, but just as a technicality at least. Once it stops raining long enough for me to get out there and finish it all up, I'll take some pictures and write up a complete how-to in a separate thread. Hopefully at that time I'll have gotten the locks figured out & will be able to include that as well. I haven't installed the passenger door lock actuator yet, my attention span was way too short to even risk messing with it last weekend. Hopefully the rain will let up a bit this weekend for me to focus on it and get it done.

Nice!

Pretty much any relay can be bypassed just fine, whether or not its a good idea to I think depends on the application. In this situation I'm not entirely sure but since the power main relay powers a few different things its probably a good idea to use it if you can.

Sure, I can throw it in there as outlined, it didn't seem to make a difference one way or the other. Plus, it might be handy for when I get those locks figured out!


Any thoughts on powering the mirrors through the d/s master switch rather than the center console switch where they're currently powered?

pretty glad to see you are getting this figured out Michelle. Sorry I can't offer any help though. Good luck with the rest.

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Do you have the one that goes in the master switch? If the plugs and pins in them are the same that's easy, just extend your harness between your existing switch and plug then run it over to the master switch and plug it in.
But judging by my 97 wiring book it looks like all the wire colors match up but the pins are different between the switches. Looks like even if your plug fits you are going to have to re-pin it. In that case find the plug that goes into the mirror part of the master switch of your donor harness and cut it off. Then just match up the colors from your car's harness.

Any plans of writing a How-to on this one?