hey i know this is off-topic but what was the total cost of the project...no need for immediate answer just trying to get a feel for it

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Greg, you could be right. btw did you get a new tv? Cable yet?

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You can easily do it for 1500 depending on where you get your parts.

and this was w/out doing anything to the engine (internals, pistons, block, spacers?) stuff like that...? for ex. im coming up on 140k...is that safe or should it get new head and whatnot before this is attempted?

does your motor burn or leak any oil? If not do a compression test. If your compression is still good boost the crap out of it without any internal upgrades.

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i do have a wideband, but i believe me and runninglow figured it is a vacuum leak going to my bov since its not hooked up yet.
no worries tho anymore, im going to get the downpipe and a bend for the wastegate made tomorrow. ill keep ya guys posted.

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yea im all done with that, have 460s, i only need my dp and wg in yet

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i spent around 2000 total, no internals. if i had to do it again tho, id prolly spend 2500 for a better setup but still no internals

This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 3, 2008 - 10:48 PM

how many miles do you have...im not downing your ability or knowledge, but how long do you expect it to hold up? everything i read says that since this is an F series head its not meant to handle boost (i know there are limits for it but i dont want more than like 240) or would you just run it until engine needs rebuilt anyway (which would be sooner considering added power)

does that make sense?

edit: and how many miles do you have?

This post has been edited by 97celiman: Dec 3, 2008 - 10:52 PM

I turbo'ed mine around 160K, maybe a little less... lasted almost 5K miles... lol. but it wasn't really my engine's fault that my turbo blew up and sent metal into it

mine has 110k. i expect it too last quite a while

I boosted mine at 208,000 and then 1,000 later mine blew hahaha. Then I did the 3s swap.

well, i guess that's it guys...

tried gettin my car a few miles down the road to a welding shop and didn't make it... thought the battery was done and replaced it and it still wouldn't work.
not the starter either, it's the engine im pretty sure...

guess im gonna find a way to get home with the car then part out.

You think you toasted your motor?!?!?!? WHY?

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quitter.
what happen?

hundred bucks says the motors not blown.

i'll buy the car off you...how much?

what is is doing? is it not cranking? is it craking and not starting?

This post has been edited by 95st-celica: Dec 4, 2008 - 8:55 PM

haha sorry i was just in a bad mood. i dont even know if its blown.... how can you for sure tell?


i wanna take it to dr. tweak...


okay so heres the story.

my car has everything done with it except my dp and wastegate. meaning there is a hole where the dp is supposed to be and where the wg is supposed to be. the car seemed to be running like crap but i really just wanted to get it to the exhaust shop to get the stuff i needed done, done. i was driving there and my car was dying at times i guess because it's tuned badly right now since i have the bigger map sensor and bigger injectors. Also in order to get there i took the ic piping off the throttle body so i wasn't running boost.

finally i got to a point where it died even tho it did a few times, and wouldn't start... it seemed to us that it was the battery because ive been having problems with it before, so i went and got a new battery. also got some oil, because my oil light was on even tho my oil stick still read half full. so then i started it up and it started up and then as soon as i stepped on the gas it died. after that it wouldn't start.

how it acts is weird, there is the key turning and then nothing, no sound but the starter sounds like its doing its job. the key turns lights dim and its trying but theres not really any loud starting cranking... idk

i wanna get it towed to dr. tweak in savannah since im in florida right now, but only if it's not the motor. I think it would be cheapest for him to finish the turbo project and most cost effective, rather than parting out.

This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 4, 2008 - 10:04 PM

wow, it didn't take much for you to quit. lol. There's always a few bugs to work out with projects like this, it's past the realm of "plug-and-play" of things like intakes where it works the way it's supposed to on the first try. I can't tell you how many many MANY times I had to constantly fix stuff on mine. partially from not doing it the right way the first time around, ignoring great avice, and just overall being a dumbsh*t.

btw, you can tell if the motor is blown with a compression tester. do a compression test and if you've got low compression in any cylinders, do a "wet compression test" where you pour a little oil down the spark plug tube and then try again, if the numbers stay low, then you've got something like a blown headgasket, or worn/bent valve and/or seal. if the numbers go up, well... then "Me and the mad scientist gotta rip apart the block, and replace the piston rings you fried!"

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ok, running, and then dieing when you step on the gas sounds like a map sensor problem or a massive vacuum leak. Did you resolve the issue you were having with the map sensor before?

as for not turning over, could be a dead battery, even if it's a new one, you could try jump starting it. Otherwise, I'd say bad ground or loose/corroded connection for the battery, starter, or alternator.

If I were you, after you get it up and running, and yes, you can do it yourself if you try, and after getting the wastegate, downpipe, and exhaust, have it tuned professionally.

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it wasn't that i was giving up, it's just im in a very tight spot and tight situation where i never should have started it. i pressured myself to do it in too short of a time limit.
i mean i need to get outta here by the 12th and call me an idiot, but i get ideas and have to follow thru.

idk i really dont know what to do now. i want to take it to tweak, but only if the engine isn't blown....

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I really really doubt the engine is blown. have it towed to the exhaust place, get your downpipe and everything on, then tow it home. get all your sensors plugged in such as o2, and IAT (you said you're running straight off the throttle body, meaning this sensor isn't sensing intake air) get everything hooked up how it should be, ie no vacuum leaks cause by your BOV, etc. that alone may be part or all of the problem. Then you can work on this no-start issue

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yea i figured the dying was because of the map sensor.. and no i never fixed anything really... once again im prolly an idiot. i figure my vacuum leak is because my bov is hooked up and just leaking air since its not in use?


but that doesn't explain why it's not starting, just a vacuum leak wouldn't stop that..

This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 4, 2008 - 10:37 PM

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yea that's what i was thinking... what do you think the no-start issue is tho? cuz the starter sounds like it's doing its job, guess i could get the alternator tested.

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yes a vacuum leak, if it's big enough, can cause a car to not start. But no, I wasn't saying you have a bad alternator, I was saying a possible loose or corroded connection for the alternator, battery, or starter could do it. What sound do you hear from the starter? a mechanical whirring noise, or clicking? if it's clicking, is it just one click and then nothing, or multiple clicks?

It can't be the alternator because you put a new battery in. If you put a new one in it should run until the battery dies because its not being charged. First get a volt meter and check your voltage on the battery. Tell me what numbers you get. Your car should run just fine but SUPER RICH untuned with the 460s in and the 2 bar map. I hope you didn't mess with your fuel management settings without a wideband to read. But you don't even have your DP in so you can't read your AFRs. This is stressing me out man. Fly me out there to lend you a hand.

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no clicking at all just like i turn the key and it like the lights dim and it tries to crank


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it was running rich. and i do have a wideband and also emanage which i did tune it.
i tuned it for the injectors but i wasn't sure how to tune it for the map.

here's another thing when i did start that one time after the battery was in there was a squeaking of some sort, don't really know where

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get some jumper cables and try to jumpstart the battery. also, check to make sure the battery terminals are secure and tightened all the way.

and how'd you hook up a wideband without a downpipe?

here's a question i really need to ask because my mom wants me too lol


do you guys think its a serious possibility that i can have my car up and running and driveably 17 hours by next friday..

i had someone hold it in the wastegate adapter

really need to know about that squeaking noise, it didnt sound very good

dude. seriously, just put it back to stock.

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*smacks forehead* 'doh! you aren't gonna get an accurate reading by holding it in the wastegate adapter espeically if the engine wasn't warmed up yet. oh boy

at this rate, I'd say no, I wouldn't recommend driving it 17 hours until after it's been running fine for several weeks and ALL the bugs are worked out.

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if this car is intended to be a reliable daily driver, than this is good advice