>

Nope. Having followed it from Maryland to Rhode Island and it arrive in pristine cleanliness I can attest to how spotless it always is.

Mike, you're doing a great job on this project!

It's because it's magically blue. I need a blue car in my life, or preferably purple.

thanks guys!


>
The car is clean but it those who followed behind felt the the wrath of my oil and coolant shower hahaha

because spycar.
that's how you win races. hahahah

just like the batmobile haha


So its friday, and I am hopefully on the cusp of having a running car again.
I have more Raychem Heatshrink and Wire at the ready so that I can rewire these couple of connections so that I can try for another start Saturday morning.
I am also going to lower the coils a few mm while the car is in the garage and I start to get too driving happy (if it actually runs)

I am also lowering my expectations as to how the motor will run and perform. I remember saying this (and I know Dustin remembers this very well) the first time I drove a BEAMS my reaction was this (Dustins): "Meh, Its okay, It doesnt feel too much more powerful than my Cam'd 5SFE" (which was at the pinnacle of its performance) And as much as he despised me for saying it, I have heard many people say...its a great motor...but its not a blow your tits off swap like the 3SGTE is.

There were some factors between the two cars that I later on came to realize. Dustins beams is fully loaded and probably weighs a good 400lbs (+/-100) more than mine. Also when I was driving the BEAMS I had big ol' Dustin in the passenger seat with me, adding another 400lbs (+/- 250) putting the whole weight at around 2900lbs (+/- 100?)
So I was comparing THAT setup to my car which runs around 2600lbs-ish on a good day, including me in the car.

I would like to think that the weight drop will be enough for it to be a pleasantly enjoyable gain for the time/money/stress/effort of this swap, but Id rather be pessimistic about the whole thing so that just in case it isnt...I wont be disappointed.

I can say though, that doing this swap, I have learned a GREAT DEAL more information of the motor, and how it works, and that alone has been worth all the time/money/stress(maybe)/effort. The motors operations seem vastly more simplified than the 5S wit all its emissions crap all over the place (WHY ARE THERE VACUUM LINES GOING TO THE PS PUMP WHYYY??)


Bored at work. This killed some time. Thanks for reading.

I was quite suprised. I went up agait an stock S2000 AP1 from a 15mph role and I was able to keep up with it to the end of 3rd gear, roughly 85 mph

That's because the S2000 has no torque either.

Just remember to bounce off the rev-limiter and everything is fine. Being lighter will definitely help, you should be in the low-mid 6's to 60 with it so that's not bad at all. Hopefully you can get to driving it this weekend.

not in good standing right now and I had hoped to have it solved tonight.

No Spark. (grounded and checked)
No CEL with ignition ON.


I am getting fuel when I crank it over.
The ECU is getting power, I have checked all the +B and BATT connections/with ign on as well
All Fuses and Relays are good.
All grounds are good.
All COP power/ground/signal wires are good. No Orange Ring of death. Have yet to measure resistance through Coil
Spark plugs are the right ones I believe (Denso PK20R8)

A dead ECU is something I am fearing. There are a few more things I could and will check but everything has been in working order so far

How does one check if the ECU is bad?

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Apr 24, 2015 - 11:08 PM

One checks the ECU by borrowing a known functional ECU. Toyota has scanners (or something of the sort) that they can test ECU's with but I'm not sure if it'll work on a BEAMS ECU. There are a few fuses you can check (or replace, just to be positive that they are good). ECU/IGN A in the fuse box in the engine bay, ECU B inside the car, and one labeled for the fuel pump or something similar. The labeling eludes me at the moment but it's under the hood and kills power to the ECU. I can snap some pictures and look my car over tomorrow evening.

Couple of questions, what did you do to the wiring? I know we started to discuss your clutch start wire being black with no yellow trace, but I got covered up and couldn't text much further.

I would like to see first if I can eliminate every other possibility tomorrow before I go finding another ECU

I guess I can just replace the fuses even though they are good.
I was able to figure out the clutch start wire last weekend. Everything else involving the EA1 plug as been triple checked and is in working order.
I had an issue with a COP signal wire but I re-wired that and that is working now

I'll snap some pictures of my EA1 plug tomorrow after I get out of my annual retraining so you can compare and make sure yours is identical. There are two ground wires in the EA1 that need to be bridged as well. Clutch start wire should prevent it from even cranking over, so that's not your issue. If you checked your fuses for continuity with a multimeter and you know they are good, there's not much point in replacing them but they are cheap enough to be worth trying. The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is the wiring for the EA1 plug, the bridge between wires 4 and 17. Pin 17 isn't used, so the wire should be bridged into pin 4, but I'm sure you've checked that a hundred times already.

You could always open up the ECU and check for burnt capacitors or resistors on the board. Have you checked your COR next to the ECU?

I guess one issue that I keep skipping around amongst all the mayhem is that I didnt have those 2 ground wires in the beams harness that needed to be connected together.

I never misplaced wires or anything, and I do have a wire going to one of those pin holes but I didnt have a second from the beams to bridge to it.

That may be an issue.

I had also been told that it may be a possibility that my model motor only had 1 wire


Just got done another round of checking things ad everything is at the same point. No CEL but all wires pertaining to it are good, maybe it's a bad bulb.
Took off the MSD
Checking for spark again shortly but it's unlikely. The pops I am getting from cranking the motor seem like excess fuel pressure

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Apr 25, 2015 - 7:53 AM

I know the 1jz ECUs have a nasty habit of popping resistor caps which is very easy to find if you open the ECU up. That may be a good idea to visually inspect(as well as just smell for burnt parts).

>




I felt the same way driving Daniel's car. My car as a factory setup feels Faster. I just can't help but wonder if you guys still aren't missing something.... Just an observation having driven the two. Dan's was a long time ago, but I had the same reaction. The first time I climbed on mine it was freaking screaming. I need to let Dan or you drive mine and see if it feels any different.


Or better yet we have a dyno meet... Lol

You are still gonna have to let me know your comparison, cause im searching for a beams soon haha. I did drive a 184 with a beams swap the other day and it was in my opinion less powerful than the 5s down low (which i expected) about the same in the middle and a great high end which i thoroughly enjoyed! It just comes down to whether its worth the time, effort, money and stress. So just give me opinions especially when the car is up and running!
p.s. The downshift and then accelerating hard was a hell lot of fun

>
I had opened it again and everything is looking fresh so I can rule out the ECU

>


>
The low down torque is something I am concerned about and knew of when coming into this swap.
I havent looked into it, but am curious to see if there is a cam that can be made to slightly increase the bottom end torque without taking too much away from the top.
If I can get this thing running I will let you guys know how it is. I will also weigh it as well.



SO.
Back to the wiring....

I am in the same position as last weekend, but with a few more items that have been crossed off the list.


I had been back and forth with many people and some points we had thought it was mechanical and at others we had thought it was wiring centered.

After checking sensors and timing and other odds and ends, I think I can cross off mechanical. The issue must be within the wiring. Which sucks.

So again, here are the issues I have:

>>No Spark>>
COP
Full continuity in all wires
Power wires steady 12.4V (IGN ON) grounded to valve & to ground terminal on plug
COP wires weren't extended just re-soldered
Measure signal wire voltage or resistance? Need a figure.

EA1
EA1 Pin 2 is for the starter relay ground. EA1 Pin 12 is for the EFI relay ground. I never had a wire in the harness for Pin 12. The EFI Relay also powers the Circuit Opening Relay, but the COR also runs the Fuel Pump...and I am getting fuel..

>>No CEL (at ignition)>>
+B (black with red trace) Pin 16 on 22 ECU Plug (has power with IGN ON)
BATT (pink) Pin 1 on 22 ECU Plug (Power all the time) goes to EFI 15A Fuse

LLI Body Plug Pin 7 to 22 ECU Plug Pin 6 continuous (Red with black trace)


there is some more tests I had done but I will add them to this post in a little bit.
I hope (AGAIN) to get it figured out by this weekend and get it started. Who knows if that will happen.
I think the issue is in the wiring now, but I cant figure out where. Everything that has to do with the IGN and Spark seems to be testing well.

Can't help you figure out the issue
but good luck man!
Celica get alil more badass everytime I read you posts

This post has been edited by kurt95gt: Apr 28, 2015 - 2:45 PM

Its been hard for everyone to help since its alot easier to diagnose when in person

I think that any mistakes in paralell circuits shouldnt interfere with the ignition/spark/CEL/starting issue and if everything is working in this ign and efi circuit....then it should start.

the only common wire between the CEL and No spark issue is the +B
I am going to re-check what I am getting from that, and possibly run a new wire just to test.

I hope to god that is the issue.

Make sure ecu has no broken pins. Or corrosion in the plugs

there was a bit of yellowing goop that I cleaned out of the 22Pin ECU port


I am on the eve of TEST-apalooza.
I am going to re-test every wire that is associated with the ign and efi systems. I am going to find this dead wire in the mix and get this puppy started on Saturday.
Ill run all new wires if need be to get it up and running.

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Apr 30, 2015 - 2:21 PM

Best of luck! Of course it'll be the last wire you check, because that's just how it works.

Tested almost everything last night.
Came to a possibile conclusion that the ECU is dead.
This whole time the Fuel Pump wasnt priming and the COR wasnt clicking on.
MaskedMan will be sending me a known working ECU and I will progress from there. Hopefulley it will start....if not then I know it wasnt the ECU.

Today I found some time to get some stuff done that I doubt I wouldnt be able to get done if the car was running (I would be driving it non-stop haha)

one of the better wraps I have done


cleaned up the ports a bit more. despite how it may look it is as smooth as silk


put a screen in front of the air ducting





I used the HKS cage to act as a secondary filter. Doesnt stand out too much right?



re-painted the TRD bar to match my interior bars.
hooked up some other odds n ends.
I will probably have to take the bar/cover off again once I get it started, just wanted to see what it looks like
I also decided to use the APEXi badge for a little while rather than the BEAMS badge

It's one of those things where you hope that's it, and that it's not it. Simple fix, just an expensive one.

Also the shroom filter or any kind of filter really isn't needed unless you live in the dust bowl, but with the bends and all that's going on I'm not sure how well it'd work anyhow. Do trial testing with a leaf blower! You could do what the Miata people do and cut a hole in the firewall to suck air from the cowl.

Anyhow, hope you get it sorted soon.

Amazing car!




This post has been edited by Hug0: May 4, 2015 - 9:05 AM

>
I had hoped to have less bends, but those damn fog lights sit right where I would have liked to have a duct. So that added 3 extra bends.
You are right, I dont think that much dust will get up far enough to get into the engine bay, and I sure as heck dont live in the dust bowl haha, but with the CSP trip and a couple other long trips coming up, id rather take that extra measure to guarantee that nothing will come in. That HKS cage is looking a little gaudy to me now. Id love to weld up an aluminum intake box

>
Thank you Martin!



Another look ahead into the weekend.
Greytop ECU is being loaned to me from MaskedMan (Derrick) and comes in tomorrow.
I have sourced a cheap Redtop ECU from a BEAMS fourm member in Canada and is on standby to see what the results of this loaned ECU will be.

I have also contacted ATS about their ECUMaster EMS and he said it would be possible to put together a EMS for me in the next couple weeks, so I am keeping that option open just as long as the motor doesn't have any serious mechanical issues when it starts to run. I figured that it may be a bit more beneficial to spend a little more money for a EMS rather than for another stock ECU.

Apart from the potential joy of starting the motor, I have a fear of it leaking...something. I already know it is going to leak coolant out of the top of the lower coolant hose, but that is going to be fixed by a better clamp.

The upper oil pan, oil pump(didnt replace) and the Headgasket are my main worries.

update.

If it started you have to do the Dr. Frankenstein laugh with lightning flashing in the background.

life.

so last night I plugged in the loaner GreyTop ECU and first sign of it working was me getting a CEL with the IGN on
Success.

I checked a couple odds and ends and then fired it up.
It had a bit more life than the last weekend but still not full ignition.

Opened the throttle a bit and tried again and It fired up but the idle was all over the place. At that point it was too late to keep trying since it was loud as hell.


Today I started by trying again hoping that the magic car faries would have fixed the problem overnight.
no luck.

I decided that the problem may be with the Injectors since that was the only thing I hadnt checked.
All the fuel injector wires were good so I took off the Fuel Rail and removed the injectors. At that point I was convinced that the injectors needed to be flow tested and cleaned since I couldnt really tell from the naked eye wether or not they were good, and that I needed to get another IAC. Dustin suggested that I might as well also clean the MAF also.

I had cleaned the MAF and was just going to bolt it back in the HKS pipe when I realized...


..

It was in backwards the whole time.
A while back when I bolted it in the pipe, I had installed the pipe backwards forgetting about the direction of the MAF and worrying more about the side of the pipe that has a big gash in it that I didnt want to be seen.

I figured that instead of still going ahead and flow testing the injectors and ordering an new IAC that I had enough time to reinstall everything and try it again with the MAF the right way.


sure enough....fired up...Idled okay. I now have a running BEAMS.

The A/F is a good bit LEAN which I am going to get after tomorrow and the throttle cable is being an ass and sticking on return.



Funny how it took be 3 weekends to test so many things and in the end it was just 3 things....discontinuous COP signal wire.....ECU.....backwards MAF.
At least I know for a fact everything else is working.

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: May 9, 2015 - 9:33 PM

The old backwards maf will get you every time....
I'd be ready to kill myself over that.
Ecu Will be fun to get permanently sorted

The oldest prank in the book!
I wont be falling for that again.

There is a guy in Canada that has one. I will probably grab that from him. I cant afford the effort/time/$ for a standalone right now I am thinking.
I am gittin too old for this sheeeiiitt. I just want to drive the car.