The awesomeness continues.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Mar 14, 2018 - 2:07 AM

Did someone say... Shredder time?!?!?!

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It's good that you've taken the time to look over your concern spots... Packaging space and range of motion was always the hardest part of vehicle design.

Luckily for me, 95% of my parts never moved, so I only had minimal exposure to the latter.

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Its a bit more difficult on FWD due to the axle shafts going into the hub. You have so much more usable space with a clear RWD front hub. Plus my wheels take up alot of space in the well so there isnt much space for tubing to squeeze by. The tires have rub spots all over the inner well lol

The grassroots is real, I feel inspired. That's what I need to do, make some kind of race car.

how is your s54 at the track. besides the bad syncros. a friend of mine has recently began tracking his beams and mid corner downshift or upshifts is difficult because of sticky tires. so the situation sort of like oil starvation on an engine from HIgh g-forces.

i wonder if anyone else experiences this???

Car on the ground update:

Biggest issue of the month was a ordeal with RECARO.

I ordered a second Profi SPG in March. They were on back order since January.
I got it in and installed it, I noticed a few slightly off stitches and other things weird things that made this seat look a little crappier than the first seat, i moved on.... While messing around in my trunk I looked up and realized the newer seat did not have the RECARO logo on the rear of the headrest like the one I got in November.



The crappy part is that I noticed this at 3pm on a Saturday. The distributor I ordered the seat from closed at 2pm...and I was going out of town the next day and would be gone for 2 weeks.
Long story shot:
The first seat I got in December was made by RECARO US. The second seat was made by RECARO Germany because RECARO US moved location and couldnt produce seats.
The distributor said RECARO US couldnt make seats for another 8 weeks and that I could just get another German made one and send back the older one.

I said no.
Called another distributor who had one US made one left. They held it for me. I mentioned this to the first distributor and they called the other place and where able to work out having them send me their seat.

All is well now.
Here is a pic.
No confetti yet. Too poor to upholster.




forethought makes future mike happy



took my fuel tank out to fix a leak[/b




[b]
found an old patch


the perp


the cause




Used some ethanol resistant bubblegum to patch the hole
Coated the top tank with rust encapsulator from Eastwood and then truck bed lined it.



bled the brakes again (remotely thanks to gorpo and speed bleeders) then put the car on the ground


This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Apr 9, 2018 - 9:18 AM

Ewww, that fuel tank...

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Im not sure the issue he is having. Mine is fine. Track designs vary so the gearing may be good for one and not the other.
Oil starvation shouldnt be TOO large a problem but that can be solved with an accusump, or a drysump setup

A few last minute things where done before the first track day of the year.

I grabbed a set of solid mounts from BRD. I was a little skeptical of the OE installed front mount and its integrity (Im sure it would have been fine) with the solid mounts installed, so I got a brand new one from Toyota. Then I burned it to the ground. Felt kind of bad.







Got a new braille battery to replace my 5ry old 'dead' one. I also bought some batteryminder products to see if the old Braille can be desulfated and reused. Im not holding my breath.



Had some spare time when the car was done and on the ground. Went and grabbed some dry ice (but forgot to grab isopropyl alcohol) to remove the sound deadning.



Here is what I used to remove the remaining tar glue and what I will be using to paint it back to the purple color (I also used this for the mirrors)







The afternoon before my trackday I got an alignment done at my buddies shop.
I also put on some number panel decals and a small side banner for my buddies shop.



At Pocono Raceway. We were so lucky to get some garage spots



The rotors got some working with heavy braking after the front and back straights. I am still a little wary of them and am still trying to find a replacement.



The tires in the rear (the drivers side more so) rub quite a bit. I have ordered a smaller rear spacer to see if that helps a bit but there isnt much room left between the rear strut and the tire



I have a bit of in car video I will upload later. Up next is cage planning and figuring out wether to to do a 10gal fuel cell or just keep the OE tank and get a fuel surge tank to add on


This post has been edited by Tigawoods: May 15, 2018 - 8:22 AM

BA as usual.

Click the image to get to the youtube vid of a couple laps around Shenendoah Circuit



Passenger side brake duct hose is finished (this was before the event too lol)


The rear got a workout. Still waiting on smaller rear adapters. Not much room till I get too close to the strut

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that's why hellaflush don't belong at the tracks.

lol Chee....

Mike, what was the brake duct rubbing on?

THE MORE YOU KNOW *****

Send that out to the stance boi's so they stay away from the track lol

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Its rubbing on the little rubber bushing that is on the passenger side axle. If that wasnt there it would all be fine. But that bushing is like 2.5" or 3"

How was the ducting secured? Do you have any room to move it up a bit higher?

it isnt really. Not in that area at least. Its secured more towards where it goes by the crank pulley.

Its as far up as it can go. Its just that when the suspension is under load the axle moves upwards and the rubber contacts the ducting just enough.
Im using the month of June to solve this and other issues before my next event

Maybe try some oval aluminum tubing to get around the complex bend?

EDIT: Similar to oval exhaust poritions where they increase the oval area to match the circular area of the standard tubing.

Just food for thought.

This post has been edited by bloodMoney: Jun 1, 2018 - 1:25 PM

I wanted to avoid doing something so resiliant as Id rather have the ducting get damaged before whatever its hitting.

The ducting can be flattened to an oval, but it widens significantly. I am going get an thread new section to use in that 'high risk' area. So if it goes again, i can just swap it out with a new 1ft section.

Ill take more time shaping the ducting for that area though. I didnt flatten it as much as I should have when i put it in. Its a pain because its an area where the ducting expands and compresses from wheel movement AND after that section it takes a hard down turn and gets pretty flat to clear the crank pulley. There is not much room for fun on the passenger side lol

gotcha.

Just tossing options up...

Why not decrease the size of the piping? Maybe a custom-like tubing where it's smaller in that specific area only.
Will lose maximum air-flow but it probably won't rip.

Initially, I thought about doing that but adding in rigid adapters for 2.5" to 2" (or less) would reduce the amount the ducting can compress when turning the wheel to the right.

I may look into seeing if 3D printing a very small piece that sits in that spot will work, Or just keep shredding ducting and replacing a small section of it

DISASTER!!!

Coming home from a cars and coffee something happened...

I was driving down a highway about 80 and went to go from 5th to 4th gear. Took it out of 5th and couldnt put it in 4th, or any gear...So I was cruising in neutral down the highway to see what would happen. I tried again and it begrudgingly went into 5th and was able to downshift to get going again. This happened again as I went to downshift to get off at my exit.


So here are the things that are happening

Can't go into any gears when the engine is running (except 2nd kind of). It CAN go into gear when running but it's unpredictable.

When the car is in gear and driving it's fine. Out of gear to change, can't get into any gears. Clutch in, locked out of everything.
Come to a stop, still locked out. Turn car off, go into gear, turn car on and go.

Sitting at idle the ar wont go into 1st but would kind of go into 2nd. As soon as it did it made a clunky sound, kind of like it was going to stall out (even though the clutch was in and its wasn't full into 2nd yet.

Im thinking its probably something with the release system. Anyone have any input? Trying to assess the problem before taking the trans out. Im trying to avoid having this be a long fix. Just want to have the parts ready, drop the trans and put it back in. (I am going to get a release bearing and slave cylinder regardless, just trying to figure out if Ill need a new clutch and FW)
I have been having difficulties with 3rd gear the past year, its gotten worse the last few months and only goes in perfectly with no resistance at high (close to redline) rpms

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Jun 10, 2018 - 6:36 AM

Will it go into gear if you rev match and don’t use the clutch? Since everything seems to be fine once you’re in gear but having difficulty getting it into gears when the engine is running, it sounds clutch related to me.

I didnt try to when I was driving it. I am going to try and drive it again to make certain the car drives fine when in gear

If its a clutch job then it probably wont be an easy day fix as I SHOULD resurface the flywheel. Having no garage here in MD sucks. I may see if I can drive it back up to PA for a couple weeks to knock it out. But driving it up to PA may not be the smartest thing with how its behaving

shifter cables?

Holy Crap I wasn't the only one! Lol I was driving my FRS back from C&C when my shifter linkage to the transmission broke!
Had to take out my transmission and still trying to fix the car.

I would have to agree with richee: it seems to be the clutch. I wouldn't think the release system be compromised like that.
But you could see if it can be the tranny. Try seeing if you can get a sample of the tranny fluid to see if it's clean or not.

+1 on dry shifting it to make sure it's a clutch problem instead of a trans problem.

I had a TO bearing explode and pin the clutch teeth closed, I had to drive it 160 miles, only dry shifting it, to get it to a place I could work on it out of the weather.

Does it creep with the clutch in or is it neutral per normal?

why don't you down shift into 2nd before the turn with the banking.... if thats the correct name for it?