Went to go assess it again.
Car still cant go into any gears while idling. Had to put it in reverse with the car off to back out of my parking spot.
Basically need to revmatch each downshift near perfect or it won't go into the gear. It shudders in first when trying to get it going from a stop, needed to rev it up fairly high for it to engage and go. So, sound like a clutch problem. Ordered a Southbend. Going to try them out for the first time.

>
It's a very high speed downhill and with late braking I tried downshifting but was still going too fast and overrevved the engine twice going into second. Just kept it in 3rd until I can figure out a better braking point to where I can downshift still. Can't heel toe downshift yet because noberto hasn't sent me his fancy bracket. So for now braking and downshifting are two separate actions


Also 100th page on the thread begins with the failing of my clutch...nice lol

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Jun 12, 2018 - 7:20 PM

YOUR HEEL TOE ISSUES SOUNDS FAMILIAR. I had the issue on my 94 ST. but with my 99 its pretty easy. dont know if abs has anything to do with it as far as pedal height goes....

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 25, 2018 - 12:49 AM

I am towing the car up to 'Garage Parents' today and will be attempting a 4(ish) hour clutch job. Fingers crossed the FW looks mint, I put it in new when I did the swap (3ish years ago) If not the 4hr job will turn into 4+ Finding a place to FW resurface on a Saturday. If its passable I will just hand scrub it clean and call it a day. With my luck, I am sure it will need to be resurfaced.

well the rush of the clutch job was halted by a delay in the clutch shipment. Had to intercept it from UPS on Saturday rather than wait until its new delivery day Monday.
Once I got the clutch, I dropped the trans, and of course the flywheel looks less than desirable and not really passable to throw back in. So I am getting it resurfaced this week and putting the trans back in next weekend. It gave me time to clean up the trans and am addressing some threadless bolt holes.



the culprit to this unexpected clutch change


just sitting and waiting

well better to be a clutch than transmission

Finally I got the flywheel back from resurfacing. So the weekend was spent putting the car back together. In 97degree heat.



I didnt notice this when I had taken the flywheel off. I need to see if the hotspots on the face match up with these. Im sure they will.


ORC back in


There are a few construction differences between the two pressure plates


on


as I havent really done any physical activity in the last few months, bench pressing the trans with a pair of wet noodles wasnt working out. So after a few failed attempts, I went with the easier method.



All in, the clutch feels lighter than the SPEC. There are a few odd noises I'm hearing that I hope go away throughout the break-in. The car is running so much smoother than before (especially with the new gear fluid). I have to log on 300+/- miles before race weekend on the 19th. This is going to be my DD for a little while

Which Southbend clutch did you go with? The Stage 3 Endurance I have in the Poopra is a phuc ton lighter than the Spec I had in it when I initially did the swap.

Stage 2 Endurance

>

yea stage 1 was discontinued. i had one and it was good. so i had to buy a stage 2

Initial D Is in Stage5, you guys will get there soon

Wow love to see this thing still going!
Crazy work dude

still a ways to go! But observing everything and how it takes to racing, so far the clutch went so I am looking next at axles and etc. Picking up a spare transmission this fall to teardown and rebuild to have on hand.

had a rush of a weekend.
I went to remedy the rear fitment because in the past I gouged my tires from the fender contacting the tire under load. I stupidy figured that adding more camber in the rear would help. I went and had the rear arms pushed out to get about 3.7deg of camber put in. After it was all said and done I had the car down and looked at it. It was much worse. I realized that the pivot point was the top of the strut and that I basically just pushed the whole wheel outwards.


Move forward to the fitting of the 15mm bolt on spacers (I had 18mm on originally). Each nut had to be trimmed to avoid contact with my wheel. This took a good while but it helped a good bit as I couldnt get another alignment appointment for the next day and needed a solution.





(at the track I raised the rear up to avoid further rubbing)



I also had decided to replace the shredded brake duct hose with a new piece and when doing this I found grease ont he inside lip of my wheel. After looking around I found it was my CV boot. This winter I noticed a slight tear (not all the way through) so I patched it with some permatex silicone. This surprisingly held up through 2 trackdays and some other driving. Now it had opened up about half an inch. I didnt have much time to repair it so I put more silicone over it. I also decided to go out and get some shoe goo after reading about its use with quick boot repair and put that on as well.
In the morning I went to see how it cured. Not well.


Long story short I ordered a replacement boot kit from toyota the evening before just in case this didnt work. Picked it up, popped it on (locked myself out of the celica had to have it popped open) and got the axle in and drove it straight to the drag strip for the weekends first event.

The only casualties of the weekend was my exhaust hanger welds not holding up and my front emblem blowing off at the drag strip



A look at the different lines I took in the rainy session at the track

You may have covered this previously Mike, but what are you using to track your lines around the track? Looks like such a neat tool.

nah i didnt, I just got it last week. Its the AIM Solo II

That is fascinating. One of the greens looks like a fast lap.

That's pretty cool! now all you need is a Playstation in the glovebox so you can play gran tourismo at the same time.

and dang, your car is a prime example of extreme fitment with those shaved nuts.

so tigawoods shaved his nuts for better clearance?

Man that track looks amazing. I wish we had something like that up here in MN.

>
these actually all rain laps lol super slow, and I think I excluded the fastest lap from this map

>
Your suggestion has been received and will be reviewed by the tigawoods race car committee

>
yup. smooth as a baby turtle shell.

>
boom
https://www.brainerdraceway.com/facilities/road-courses/

I can only seem to recall hearing bad things about Spec clutches for some reason....

hello old friend.
its me.
tigawoods.
car was put into hibernation on 11/27
Now I sit and wonder what I is to be done to it before next season.

I briefly thought about F.I. on the BEAMS today. Both Turbo and SC would be around $2k to do (to tigawoods standards, but if the BEAMS can take a bit of F.I. on stock internals it'd be considerably less)
I then thought about terminating the BEAMS Engine Harness to a motorsport connector...and buying a 4TH Gen 3SGTE, which I would also have its harness terminated to the same style of connector. Close to $2k when all is said and done.

>>HOT SWAP MOTORS.>>

Crazy Idea?

Yes.

Would I ever go back to the BEAMS?

Who knows.


I am at a crossroad. One where each path leads to $2k+ modification options. Although, the cheapest path is the one where I continue sitting at the crossroad and don't spend anything.




Here is a pic. Its to celebrate 300k+ views and 100 pages. Idk who is still looking at this thread but keep doing what you are doing (>>dustin)>>

This interests me.
Have you looked at the gains for each setup and about how much each do you think?
If it's about $2k each then it just comes down to ease of parts/install and gains. but we all know you like to over-complicate things.






also, you pic is blurry.

Just go 2GR, or wait for Hux Racing to finish his E153/J32 plate adapter and go that route!

>

"Just go 2GR"

Have you looked at the thread on the 2GR swap thread and how much of a b!tch it is to put that thing in this car?

i still lurk...not sure why...

I'm personally a fan of the boosted beams idea. But I think you have to somehow reduce the compression if you're looking for BIG power. The thread was deleted because dude got butt hurt that people were still making suggestions on his build, but MR2OC used to have a thread by Mandalay with like 200 pages where he SC the beams and made I think north of 350hp conservatively. The dyno information may still be in the dyno thread over there i'm not sure.

Morale of the story is, I've been considering the same thing. Can I boost mine, even though it has 11.5/1 CR, with something small, like 5-8 psi and get away with it and still have VVTI? Tough to say if the juice is worth the squeeze, but they are 4th gen rods after all.

I was looking at maybe a link ecu plug and play or a haltech elite 2500 with the adapter harness kits that would bridge over from 2jz harness to haltech ecu. What I don't know are the harness plugs the same size and shape between 2jz/3sgte/beams or whatever so that all you have to do is correctly program the pins on the ecu? 5s and 3sge are the same, so it's worth a shot if you wanted 1 ecu and adapter harness to run 2 engines, or good standalone control of boost and vvti for the BEAMS.

STILL looks great.
Keep it up.

>

It may work with the high compression using E85 assuming you have access to it, or like you said, low boost. You'll still maintain VVTi with a good standalone as a lot of new standalones are able to support it along with drive-by-wire now. It'll be costly, but the driving experience would probably put it on a whole new level.

whatever I do yeah, Im going to need a standalone. Its been first on the list for a while.

For the cost of everything (ems, turbo, custom manifold etc) I would like to save some $ and avoid lowering the compression. If I have to I have to but I would also rather stay away from E85 if possible.

Without a doubt I would want to run less than 10psi. Other than the good hardware I would make sure it gets a very VERY good tune. Since the motor would see more work than a standard run around street car I would want to make sure it holds up to the pressure (pun intended)

I bet if I were to just toss a 4th GTE in I would be sad that I have an OE unmodified motor. The aftermarket options are so readily available for it too.
To kinda compare. $2k for a complete swap installed VS probably est $4K to turbo the BEAMS (if done how id want)


Chances are nothing might be done this winter. Probably just a fuel surge tank to fight sloshing when racing

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Nov 30, 2018 - 12:44 PM

>

It’s not, I can help, I’m around. I can remake the mount and pedal. It’s not rocket science. It’s not like anyone will go blind like I did. With no mechanical skills, I self taught welding and wiring. It takes determination

Boosting the beams is doable, but at what cost. Busted head gasket is expensive, have to order it, and internals are pricy too. 4th gen is the best option or k swap series