Problems... To be expected with any swap. It's in the car but not started yet. Going back out to work on it. I thought I had the clutch start wire all worked out since my BEAMS came with an auto. Turns out I still have to repin that wire. I still need to do that then hopefully it'll start. Right now, it doesn't do a single thing. After I get it started, I still have to address the issue of why I only have an oil pressure light on my gauge cluster- no check engine light, no battery light, no anything else that normally comes on when you turn the car on without starting the motor.

did you swap your cluster. or is the original. check the fuses, or one of the plugs in the fuse box, you may have forgotten

I had a very similar problem with my Beams swap, and part of the problem was that the big grey plug in the fuse box wasn't plugged in properly. It feels like it plugs in fine, but unless you put the little clips in place it doesn't connect properly. I'd check that first.

Slight update, it's turning over. That was the clutch start wire, just as we thought. I was under the impression that I just had to splice two wires on a plug for the auto tranny and it should start, but it turns out I still have to move the clutch start wire. Anyway, it's turning over now, but not starting. I think it's a fuel issue. When we crank it over, I can't smell any fuel in the exhaust at all. Suggestions are welcome.

Noberto- all the plugs are fine, fuses are fine. I kept the original cluster but I have a Dakota Digital tach adapter to get the signal to work.

S8S8- The EA1 is securely plugged in.

As far as the gauge lights go, stephen_lee says it could either be the b+ on my ECU or that I'm missing some 12v switched wire. For some reason, my battery light works now. Still no check engine light or anything though. I'm less worried about the gauge lights than I am the starting issue. I have three choices with that- one, relay for the fuel pump- Bad splice or something. Two, I don't have the o2 sensor that goes in the b pipe, so if I got the car started, it still wouldn't run right. That sensor could be keeping it from starting at all. Three, I know how sensitive the AFM is, but I'm 99% sure that it's more likely one of the other two causes.

All I have left to do is fill the tranny up with gear oil, wire the tach adapter in, get the exhaust fabbed up, and actually get it started.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jun 20, 2011 - 6:53 PM

check for codes. check the efi fuse. check for codes.

Here's where I stand. The engine will turn over continuously but will never show the first sign of wanting to catch and start up. After trying for a while, I finally smelled fuel in the exhaust. This could just be from the vacuum in the cylinders sucking fuel in rather than the fuel pump sending fuel. So far as I can tell, the fuel pump isn't working at all. For what it's worth, I've never once heard the fuel pump work in that car. It's a pretty quiet pump. My wiring so far is: EA1, pin 17 to pin 4, and pins 2 and 12 bridged together, and the clutch start wire has been moved. I have NOT wired in the tach adapter yet, although I seriously doubt if that's the cause of my problems. Still no check engine light, which to my knowledge should at least be coming on to show that my ECU is getting power. I don't want to pull the wiring harness apart but I will if I have to. I'm going back out to play with the car and see what I can get done, but I doubt if I'll make any progress. For now, here are a few pictures.

Last picture of the 5S in the car.


Finally, an empty engine bay.


The 5S out of the car and on the ground, where it belongs.


Resurfaced 3S-GTE OEM flywheel, thanks Chris!


The BEAMS getting ready to go in the car.


Typical of any swap, I had to use Gojo as a body wash.


Finally in!

another way to tell if the ecu is getting power is to crank it and see if u have spark. if u have spark the ecu is for SURE getting power. i think on afm motors u can open up the plate and the FP should come on.. but i havent played with many.. on my v6 though if i opened up ALL the way up, it will spary fuel.. even with the engine off & key on.

That guy has some serious ratchet skizziles

>
Funny you should say that... I hadn't even read this post until just now but one of my friends and I were out with the car earlier when we decided to stop scouring our wiring and wondering what I did wrong and we decided to check the basics. We pulled the plugs, no spark at all. No spark, no fuel. No check engine light. I've noticed the 5S ECU says "5S-FE, M/T." All the pictures of the BEAMS ECU I've seen say "3S-GE, M/T." My ECU, on the other hand... says nothing. Just has a Toyota part number. No spark, no fuel, no CEL... All signs seem to point to a bad ECU.


>
That man bent my 1/4" S-K ratchet.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jun 21, 2011 - 8:47 PM

if you need help with the intake I'm doing some R & D with air/fuel ratio's and different intake setups. I saw you posted your progress thread on celi tech. Take a look at beams forums. I'm always on their as well. Don't buy a injen Camry intake for $200 its a waste. The best investment would be to make a Custom 70mm intake piping yourself for $250. Good luck finding the stock intake, if you do find it I'll envy you. And if you do buy an oem intake it probably wont run you more than $100 shipped. Not so much that its a rare item but that engine swap places throw them away without knowing the importance of them...

>

Fixed.

I just thought that maybe you should PM Lagos and see if he can dig you up a part number so that you might be able to match ECUs.... All else fails, pick up another one...

yeah google the part number on the ecu. it should tell you what engine it came off of... btw dont you have TWO 3sge ecus? swap them out.

whats the part number of the ecu?

Only one 3S-GE ECU. My Redtop didn't come with an ECU or tranny. I need to get on the BEAMS Owners Group and research that Greytop ECU. I read that it works fine with the Redtop, but I need to know if there's any work required to make it work. There's a 5th plug on the ECU that the Redtop harness doesn't have. Either way, I'm going to spend tomorrow and Sunday dissecting that wiring harness and looking for any cut/broken wires. I wired the fuel pump up directly to power and made sure it was sending fuel yesterday and that got me nowhere. Whatever issue I have has to be in the wiring or in the ECU, and I'm confident that I made all the right splices in the right places and that the splices are good connections.

Here's the ECU I'm using.



Edit: This just got a little better. Clicky.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jun 24, 2011 - 4:56 PM

why is it i find that ecu and its from a subaru impreza sti? convert this from japanese using google http://www.garagelive.jp/auctions/index/22223430 also http://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/forums/...tml#post1138283 hope i helped you out!

This post has been edited by opie_7afe: Jun 24, 2011 - 5:48 PM

"Your search - toyota 112200-5340 - did not match any documents."


THAT IS SO AWESOME!!!!I'M SO GLAD IT GOT BETTER!!!

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Wow... Good call. Problems solved. I didn't do a search on Google for just the part number, only "TOYOTA (part number.)" That's why I couldn't find it. Well.... I'm pissed and relieved at the same time. That seller on Ebay is going to get an angry email.

Well, I'm relieved to at least know the source of the problem. Now, to find a Redtop ECU... I've only been looking since, you know, the start of May. Still haven't found one.

well im glad i sorted you out and im new to celicas! but man sometimes people just dont know wtf there doing(not you by any means), so did the correct harness come with the engine and some how it plugged into a suby ecu? if so that would be very weird. but hey atleast you wont be getting frustrated and trying to fix things that aint broke!

This post has been edited by opie_7afe: Jun 25, 2011 - 12:42 AM

Toyota does own a large part of Subaru so I can see how they might share plugs. I can see where the seller might have thought he was sending the right ECU because it happened to plug right in. Still, he sent the wrong ECU and he owes me the right one. But thanks for finding that for me. I just did a search for the Toyota part number and I was completely baffled when Google got no results. There aren't many results when you do a search for the Subaru part number, but there are results nonetheless.

I found a B pipe with the O2 sensor I was missing on Ebay today. So here I am, $200 later, but I would have easily spent that and more at an exhaust shop and after I bought a new O2 sensor. Well worth the extra expense. Still no solid leads on an ECU, but at there are a few people that are being supremely helpful. Update for the day, I filled the tranny up with gear oil and put all 4 wheels back on the ground. Relocated the battery to the trunk and did it a little more professionally this time, since it's somebody else's car. I also installed my GT4 rear strut brace and the front strut brace from my gray Celica. After I get this thing started, I'm talking to the girlfriend about dropping her old 5S in my gray Celica. The Greytop will eventually go in, but needless to say I'm going to be a little more prepared for that swap. Updates are useless without pictures, so...


Anybody know of something good to get that pink ink off of the strut bar? I tried Goo Gone, Windex, and hot water.



Also, for anyone interested, I'm only into this Redtop for $1,525. Of course, there will be added expenses later after I do the timing belt, water pump, plugs, things like that, but for right now, I'd say $1,500 for a Redtop swap isn't bad. Time to find out how much damage that ECU will do to my wallet.

Paint.

I want to be on speaker phone with you when you take that thing out for the first time....

pink stuff would be from a paint marker, you can try some paint thinner but i would test it in a hidden area first,i doubt it will mess with the paint they use (probly epoxy paint) but just incase im wrong try in a hidden area to see if it effects base paint if not try it on the pink paint, if that fails you can always wetsand then polish it out or maybe even use rubbing compound(i used it to remove the remains of glue from debadging)

I got my valve from the seller until he did it right. Id pick up the phone and harrass the hell out of him.

I was already sent a flywheel for a Blacktop that the seller refuses to take back and refund me for. Says he doesn't do refunds for "parts that don't fit." Well, I'm sorry but if your ad says "Celica ST202 VVT" that implies Redtop BEAMS. Granted, it didn't explicitly say it, but that's a Redtop, not a GXE10 Altezza Blacktop. So there goes $424 that the jacka$$ won't give back. Now this guy sends me the wrong ECU and won't answer my emails... I wanted to sell it but most of the Scooby ECU's I see on Ebay have an immobilizer so they are all being sold with a key and ignition barrel. Plus I can't find a single one of these ECU's anywhere else, so it isn't a popular ECU. It isn't likely that I'll be able to resell it. Now Nengun has lost $450 somewhere between their account and my bank account.. Fantastic. Gotta love when stupid crap goes wrong, huh? Between these three things, I'm looking at $1,239 gone for absolutely no reason at all. At least vincent_doggy has an ECU for me, and the b pipe should be here soon. Oh well, I guess. At least the car should be started and running by this time next week.

Flywheel u can sell, the lost money u can recoup, the ecu well thats crap. Lessons learned. When i called for my swap i emailed back and forth and got evrything in writing. 1750 to my house. Of course i am close to him. Hope you overcome this issues. Go to mr2.com to sell and buy parts.....

Yay! I can't WAIT until my car is done.

i know how you feel lol

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Wow, she posted! I didn't think you'd do it, considering the last few pages of this thread have been about your car. I love how your BEAMS hasn't even started yet and you, like everyone else with a BEAMS, already have a BEAMS logo in your avatar. Your ECU will be here this week and then we'll get it running. Then I'll drive it around for a month or two, then you can have it back. Or you can keep the IS. Whatever.

>>(She can keep the IS. )>>

This post has been edited by richee3: Jul 5, 2011 - 6:50 PM