Sorry i couldnt get you the ECU dan. But good to see you found one!

^This.

No worries, Andrew. vincent_doggy found one pretty much immediately after I PM'd him. Turns out I should ask my contacts in JDM land before pulling my hair out. The ECU is Stateside and clearing Customs as we speak, so it should be here early next week and hopefully that'll bring this swap to a close.

The Paypal dispute with Nengun worked- and worked well. I originally sent them $469 and change, or 37,399 Yen. I didn't get that money back and I opened the Paypal dispute and as of today, they refunded 37,399 Yen... or $476.91. I guess the exchange rate changed a little, huh?

Chris, I still owe you money. PM'd.

nice. i knew a paypal dispute would do something for you. good job!

>

I didn't know what else to make my avatar, so be nice mister.
So wait, after it starts up you get it for a couple months? And if I win at the casino, I have to buy us both Supras, but if you win you just buy "us" one nice one? I get the feeling I'm being scammed by my own bf....

What? I would never con you into buying me a Supra when I would only buy one for myself...

Got a box in the mail today... You ever feel that the guys that work for customs are literally a bunch of apes? Like there's one guy there in a suit and tie and all the rest of the workers are a bunch of chimps running around, jumping all over the place, throwing their poop at each other? Yeah, I get that feeling too. This box sat in Customs for 5 days before moving. When it did move, it didn't go to Galatia, IL as addressed. Instead, it went to Wichita, Kansas. Because the whole state of Illinois is now located within city limits of Wichita, apparently. My box is covered in "US CUSTOMS" tape, because I guess the fact that it clearly says "Used car ECU" on the side of the box isn't good enough. I suspect these chimps sat on the box for 5 straight days, probably sniffing it a lot, and throwing it at each other when they ran out of poop.

No, seriously.



But I finally got this box, and as if you guys can't figure out what it had in it...



Finally, I have an appropriately labeled Toyota ECU. Got it out of the box, plugged it in, car turned over 3 times, then fired right up. Didn't even have any idle problems or anything. First impressions... BEAMS with an open header is loud as sh*t! Took it for a spin and I have to say, open header, full tank of 87 octane rather than 91/93, my mind isn't blown. But then, I didn't expect it to be. It's exactly as previous BEAMS swappers have said- it's not just sudden, violent power. It's very smooth all the way up to redline, acts like a 5S for the most part until VVT kicks in, then gets to redline without hesitation. You just really get the feeling that this is how the car should have felt from the factory, without any of that 5S tomfoolery.

Initial problems I had with the motor, the battery light stayed on after the car was running. Bad alternator. Swapped that out for my Greytop alternator, problem solved. Power steering pump was whining, but Chris told me that I just needed to fill up and bleed the power steering system. Words of wisdom indeed. The battery doesn't seem to be staying charged at all... Ground issue? I'm guessing that the problem lies in my battery relocation since this is a brand new battery. It wasn't exactly staying charged before I got the motor started. And last but not least, the biggest issue. I was driving the car around pretty calmly, just to see how it was running, and it started backfiring a little when I let off the gas. Then I could feel it missing. Then it got to the point where I was holding the pedal to the floor and it was struggling to pull itself along. It wouldn't die, just wouldn't get above like 1,300 rpm. If I pushed the clutch in, it idled just fine. It just didn't like when I gave it any gas. It did this for about 5 minutes, pulling itself up hills just fine, idling along, refusing to die. Then after that, it got to the point where I could give it a little bit of gas. Give it too much, it had problems again. Let it idle for a minute, give it gas again. Problems solved. I'm thinking maybe since I'm running an open header that the O2 sensor was sending the wrong signal to the engine? Or maybe the AFM in the intake. I'm honestly not sure what to suspect on that. Keep in mind that the car simply would not die, pulling itself up some decently steep hills, idling along. I would expect the car to die if it had to idle up a hill, but it kept giving itself just enough fuel to keep running and keep moving. The temp gauge said it wasn't running hot, full tank of fuel, so I'm thinking either O2 sensor or AFM. Hopefully one of the gurus knows what that problem is since I'm hoping to send the car back to the girlfriend in the next few days.

Picture just for kicks and giggles.


This post has been edited by richee3: Jul 13, 2011 - 10:50 PM

*patsselfonback*

Damn we do good work!

Just think, if we had the right ECU in the first place, we would've driven it that weekend....

looks good.

the issue described is with the same 87 octane fuel ? if so, that's the first thing I would look into, that engine was not designed to run with that low octane junk.

Your box has customs tape on it because they probably opened it.

I ship tons of stuff monthly from Japan and never once have i had that
tape on it and takes 2 days.

running 87 octane on a 11:1 compression engine you crazy!!? It was probably engine knocking and you couldn't hear it because of your open header. The least you can safely run on beams is 91 octane.

Good job getting it up and running. Congrats

clean that maf...

>
Actually, I am beginning to suspect that the intake is my problem. The car was running great when I first started it up and went for a couple of drives. Then in the middle of one drive, it started hesitating. I know the intake pipe for the BEAMS need to be for a 97-01 Camry. I was told to get the Injen intake for $200 or more. Instead, I went cheap and got the Weapon-R intake for $130. See those nipples sticking up on the intake pipe? The Injen intake doesn't have those. I stopped them up with some JB Quick Weld but the JB Weld is no longer in the middle nipple. Given that I have read how sensitive the AFM is, I'm guessing that I've found the problem. It's hot right now and I'm watching Scrubs and doing some much-deserved cuddling so I'll go do some troubleshooting later.

Exhaust is fabbed up and complete. I don't have a gasket for the B pipe yet, so I still have an exhaust leak that needs to be taken care of.

you should of bought this. http://www.amazon.com/Short-Induction-Inta.../dp/B002W5XHI8/

whats the piping size of your current intake??

honestly don't run 87 octane anymore. You'll screw up your engine, performance will be crappy, and at that point your knock sensor won't be doing its job. These engines run perfectly on 94 octane. You'll just end up damaging your internals with 87 octane.

dude the intake i bought was 30 bucks and then i modified, i paid no brand, hell even the hks was 60 bucks..

make sure that intake is 80mm and shave those nipples and even out the surface from the inside...

no turbulence.... thats the key word...



thats my cheap intake...


and i scouted ebay and could not find any of those cheap intakes, maybe the company went out of busz./

skeet.

what are you talking about Norberto I just posted my link. It looks similar to the intake I bought off of you. 80mm thats too big. 70mm is oem size...

internal diameter is 72 mm...

retracting statement....

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Jul 14, 2011 - 11:30 PM

I'm not confusing anybody Im giving straight up facts, you didn't even measure it right.



also backed up by the guys at beams owners group: http://www.mr2.com/forums/beams-owners-gro...ntake-pipe.html

puretone later says in page 3 that if someone could fabricate a 70mm intake piping that it would be a perfect page

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 10, 2012 - 12:55 AM

My maf holder is 80mm outside diameter, so i had to go measure it now, im at work and the internal diameter is 72mm...



My car idles and purs like a kitten.

I have no trouble with my car..

there i retract my prior statement, i was wrong, outer 80 inner 72.....



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Jul 14, 2011 - 11:15 PM

no way. MR2 and Celica use different boxes.... I bought my beams celica from erahman. your intake piping that you gave me has an outter diameter is 76mm. but ya another confirmation just to prove you wrong is all we need hehe. ok I'll shutup now

ok you posted while i was editing... there happy!

it is 71 to 72 mm, you were right i was wrong....

this is my hks right now at work.

nice project. i envy you guys, only if i have the heart to remove my reliable 7afe...... i could easily get 3sge Beams here for $1,100 and atleast $300 additional for the swap and rewire.

oh well maybe in a year or so, hehehe

Buy a project celica like richee and I did.

>

who said the 3sge beams wasn't reliable

that's not what i meant,

if it ain't broke don't fix it thing, this is what i mean. hehehehe

The interior diameter of the intake pipe, as I understand it, needs to be about 71 mm. That's just what I read on the BEAMS Owners Group. My pipe matches that, but those nipples had to be blocked off so as not to disrupt the airflow. Either way, quick note to any future BEAMS swappers: Just get the factory intake and make your life easier from the start. But no worries, I've discovered that this isn't my problem with the motor not running right. Bonzai, those pictures that Noberto posted of the intake measurements are actually Erahman's pictures.
>

We're aware of the fuel issue, but that retards timing and kills power. It wouldn't cause it to run this poorly. I was hoping to have her fill it up with 93 before we pulled the 5S out but she forgot. No big deal.

Anyway, I digress. Intake issues aside, this motor still isn't running properly. I can get it to run well enough for a few minutes but either will not run when you give it gas but it'll idle just fine or else it won't idle at all and will die but it'll run beautifully when you give it gas. So basically it runs like crap, no matter what. I got it to run well enough for the girlfriend to drive it a few nights ago and now she's decided that she doesn't want the 5S back. But here are some basic facts that I need to share. A few weeks ago, I had a friend over here helping me work on the car. We pulled all 4 plugs out to see if I had any spark at all. The plug on cylinder 3 was covered in oil. We pulled the Cylinder 3 plug out of my Greytop, same story. So we chalked it up to be a fact about the motor, that there's just something about it that gets oil all over the plug, inside and outside the cylinder. However, since the very first time I got this motor to start, even when it was running well, I've been smelling burning oil. I replaced the plug in Cylinder 3 and a few nights ago, I pulled the plugs out again. Sure enough, my clean, oil-free plug had oil on it. And there's smoke coming from somewhere in the engine bay. Keep in mind that I bought this Redtop for $900 and intended to scrap it and use it for parts for the Greytop that I bought. I never expected it to be a great motor until I got it and saw that it actually had all the wiring, the entire fusebox, and a lot of extra stuff that the Ebay ad didn't mention. And now that it's in the car and (barely) running, I'm reminded that I bought a $900 parts motor and hoped it would work. So we're calling this one mechanical failure and we're on the search for another motor. We're currently discussing whether we're staying BEAMS, which we know forwards and backwards at this point, or if we're going to go all out and get the 3S-GTE. We both drove the BEAMS and both saw how much fun it is, but the power is all at the top end where you never rev. We both would prefer the powerband of the 3S-GTE, which has more power and has it at a lower RPM. Right now, it's six of one and half a dozen of the other for us. So this swap thread will continue, probably with another BEAMS swap, but for now everything is on hold until we get another motor. Then we're either keeping this BEAMS for parts for ourselves or else we'll be selling it for parts to somebody else who wants a BEAMS or who wants to rebuild this one.

celica-s, Do it. Definitely get the BEAMS. You won't regret it, especially not for that price. Just because my BEAMS swap hasn't gone as smooth as it could doesn't mean that it isn't an easy swap. As long as you're prepared and you don't get a Subaru ECU, it doesn't take very long to swap out and the power difference between a 7A and a 3S is immense. If it isn't broke, fix it 'til it is.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jul 16, 2011 - 1:09 PM

Damn youve had some bad luck man!