>

Just to fill you in man, YOU DO NOT WANT TO RUN YOUR INJECTORS AT 100% DUTY. The could reach a point where they do not open/close fast enough, starve your engine, and then bad things will happen. Its obvious that you know what an active clamp does, but i just have a thing about running injectors up too 100%. I have had mine hit up to 80% and most ppl will tell you 80% is the "safe limit". Its cool that you want to run water/meth injection, but nonetheless the dangers are still present.

http://docinjector.com/info1.htm (give this a quick read for a general idea of what i mean)

Do you plan to run larger injectors BTW? I noticed you are planning to upgrade your turbo. I wonder if a portion if not all of your fueling system will change as well...

I have no plans to change the fuel system, Injectors are usually expensive and 3rd gen are as big as they come out of all gens that I know of...bigger injectors with more boost = death to pistons... So I'm lookin for the safe limit of max gas with extra alcohol and water with the PSI limit and get as close to 350 HP since thats my goal. Its the taboo limit of pistons gas head gasket and piston rings clutch and whatnot.


And why feel so bad for my poor car ? I love my car, our roads are **** thats all. It has suffered a few times though, no crashes though

Thanks miguel for the Info I'll send you a message if i swing that side of the country!

Hi,

the main problem of a 100% duty-cicle is that the injectors gets hot as the fuel is't not longer able to cool them and in front of this they get damaged, 80% is a safe maximum

a friend of mine is driving around ~380PS (DIN) with the standart 540cc injectors, a good fuel pump, map and especially water injection is needed

you should possible go for a hybrid turbo to hit your goal, i think this is the cheapest solution as you don't have to build the whole system new

greetz

obviamente tienes mucha ambicion hermano pero por favor haslo bien no tienes idea cuanto la gente de aca quisiera tener la opportuninad que tu tienes !

Well NEON90424 there are still some options that you could take in regards to improving your fuel system on the cheap.

One thing you could try is an improved fuel pump, with an aftermarket pressure gauge/regulator. With this method you can get the most out of your stock injectors without actually changing them.
I will say though, that most people tend to shy away from doing this mostly because they dont know what they are doing or because someone tells them that it isnt a good idea. READ UP ON THIS TO SEE MORE OF WHAT I MEAN....(btw this method takes a bit of research and patience) Stock fuel pressure is as follows...33-38psi/idle =27-31psi


AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE GUIDE

You could also try swapping out your stock injectors for something slightly bigger out of a junked car. What i mean is, finding side feed 550cc injectors to give you a better range of efficiency before you hit that magical 80-85% duty cycle.

I have seen a few friends of mine get away with this when doing their "junkyard builds (using mostly parts out of a junkyards)". I really wouldnt reccomend this as a permanent solution mostly because the injectors could be bad, and you might have to do some custom work to make it all work together (aka. boring out rails, jury-riggin a rail to work with your engine etc.etc..)
Ill post up a link that has list of all side feed injectors and their flow rates.

SIDE FEED INJECTORS

OR you could dig through forum sites/ebay to find a nice set of injectors on the cheap you could use. Use a SAFC for cheap tuning and throw in a wahlbro pump and bam you could have a cheap system that works and is reliable to some extent. Although some ppl say that they have problems with the SAFC and the 3rd gen's computer...meh

All of this is really just food for thought. I understand that you are just doing a simple build using "cheap parts". But i figured i would at least throw the info out there if you or someone else was curious about other methods.

Honestly when it comes to upping the boost, and fueling etc. etc. i would do things right, no matter the cost. Those two things could easily detroy an engine if done wrong..

Anywho ill stop clogging up this thread with my post...good luck with your build man, and dont listen to what anybody says...hopefully you keep things safe though, and you get some fun out of it!!

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Jan 29, 2011 - 7:13 AM

>


I just thought that part was funny lol.

I have a Walbro 190LPH pump in my sand rail I can swap that out into my celica I guess wont the stock FPR do its work? what PSI is the 80% of stock limit? Also you guys are forgetting the point that im not going to be going 7000 rpm for 10 minutes...

>


I guess you didnt read the part where I wrote Wat/Meth injection will be set up...

I already got the turbo its a twinscroll .50AR chinese piece of shart

Hi,

i just want to say that it is possible with 540cc injectors but i didn't read the part where you bought the turbo

greetz

ok thank you.

So consensus is that

With Wat/Meth stock inj turbo W2A iridium spark plugs boost controller ceramic 6 puc clutch (from ACT) I can reach 350HP and into STI crushing zone ??

I absolutely love this build. I can tell in your writing that you have a great sense of humor. Best of luck.

>
350hp, no problem. 350whp (WHEEL hp) is going to be pushing the limits of the stock 540cc injectors.
no need for iridium spark plugs, they arnt going to gain you any hp.

Yes obviously at fly wheel specs isnt the JDM spec 255HP At the flywheel aswell?

Iridium spark plugs give you more Horse powers!plus the stickers I put on my intercooler and license plate I should gain like 10 horse powers from those! And dont get me started If I chow down on these....then its massive horse powers

I just put in CF raiser blocks with the nice wing on it! that should add about 50 horsepower at 100km/h*



Does that look correctly installed to you?

*more like kilograms lol



This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 31, 2011 - 4:52 PM

Ok I installed the AEM Wat/Meth and Teed up the digital boost controller to it and I got some surprising results,

My car only boosts up to 7 psi... the wat/meth is not injecting into the manifold just onto the radiator (only water, It wooorks )

So why would my CT20B only be boosting to 7 psi with leaking oil seals? or wat do u guys think its problem is?

Umm, maybe im not understanding this correctly, but you have your water/meth injection spraying onto your radiator?
And my second question, is your turbo leaking oil?
And finally, when you say digital boost controller, you mean the one that came with the AEM kit right?

The water meth injection nozzle is hanging atm, the system is set up, not tuned yet it just sprays at 1 psi and it was set to spray infront of the radiator (Have to see where to but the hole for this thing ) no meth has been added ( I know its corrosive as fck), The whole insides of my manifold are covered in oil, its minimal but it sure is messy my BOV use to spit out oil onto my hood I dont know how bad the oil thing is now since I switched to synthetic I'll check my oil level but It shouldn't be bad. I think I have some bad turbo seals a local turbo expert told me my turbo was probably set at max psi and they blew the seals but we cant know for sure till we take it out. And no the digital boost controller is the one that I bought to be able to control the boost for the new turbo, I just have it tee'd off no solenoid or anything just to see the numbers in solid digital info instead of a crappy clock, What confuzzles me is that the clock would show 15 psi before...BUT...performance was the same...I'm betting the clock is **** and that I have never gone past 8 psi...Last night I Pulled in 3rd till redline and all I got was a miserable 6-7 psi on the boost controller.

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Feb 9, 2011 - 8:22 AM

take a picture of which line you used for the digital boost controller, some Vac lines don't see full boost.

the only reason other than a bad turbo for 8 psi or lower is if you are on " safe " mode, but for the turbo to be boosting only 8 psi, you'd see a good amount of blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe, my turbo was shot and I wasd still boosting 12 psi with a great amount of smoke out the back.

Yeah I believe I am on safe mode...My boost controller and TRD Speedo gauge cluster thing also shows minimal boost. No CELs and the I do get some smoke out the back I thought it was burnin oil tho...gonna go reset the ECU and do some doughnuts in the yard, did another pull today max I got was 7.4 PSI...the boost controller shows there was a peak 9.9 psi boost sometime yesterday... still way too low..my butt dyno reports phail.

sparking the battery didnt do anything...Do i have to unplug it longer or something?

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Feb 9, 2011 - 4:16 PM

what do you mean by sparking the battery?
just unplug both positive and negative terminals for a few minutes and it should reset.

doing donuts is probably going to f^ck your stuff up even more. you should stop acting like an idiot and do the build right and replace the parts that need to be replaced otherwise you're going to have some serious problems with your car. i'm not trying to sound like a$$ though it might seem like it, but you're going to mess up your engine if you don't fix it properly.

once you fix it and everything works perfect, then go have some fun

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 9, 2011 - 5:11 PM

its just doughnuts over dirt man Its not like I'm going allout ripping concrete... I unplugged the positive and rub it and it sparks...Thats how we reset stuff down here...

Dont know how doughnuts would mess up my engine though...comin home 100 miles an hour and only got 7 psi...

Wish I could find the .GIF of harold and kumar escape guantanamo bay when he says "**** YOU!, Doughnuts are awesome!" would be priceless right now

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Feb 9, 2011 - 9:48 PM

well i thought you meant on pavement lol but still, high rev's and an oil leak in the turbo aren't a great mix, i'd still try to get that turbo issue fixed.

here's the clip haha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MzCiYsEzTg

Well firstly your oil problem might be an oil catch can issue. If the turbo was really going out or gone, im sure it would be making one heck of a noise or there would be other problems.

As far as why you are boosting so low without CEL, it could be a boost leak (vacuum leak) somewhere in your system.

And some advice, umm, if you want to run water injection, some people might say that you should have it running "preferbly" inbtwn your throttle body and intercooler, in front of the butterfly valve of your throttle body.

And also i couldnt agree with MKERNZ22 anymore, man you should fix your problems before you go out to have fun with your car OR add water injection. I mean, do as you wish, but you can mess up alot more that you think, and your cheap parts build will turn into an expensive/gotta fix this build. Just my .02 cents.

>

It's not truly at 57k. as he stated:

"I liked that it had a nice thick Aluminum KOYO racing radiator and a Cusco alloy strut brace and a sweet japanese roundish air intake and 57K kilometers on the Odo...the limited 300km/h TRD speedo so I was turned on by this"

- which means it's not the original KMs anymore. The speedo couldve been changed at 100,000 kms, 10,000 kms or 109803943842 billion kms. But you get the idea.

Or bought when the car came out

I installed the wat injection im running like 55% Water and 45% window washer fluid (paraguayan made its not meth but its got alky and water in the ingredients so it should be just as good...maybe I should use more washer fluid than water its quite cheap i got 10 liters for 6 bucks. I drilled a hole in the rubber between the butterfly valve and the w2a intercooler unfortunately my dumbass forgot to remember the cusco bar and it no longer fits because of the large ass spray nozzle and i cant bend the line for obvious reasons...it kept popping off so i glued it on with that cement stuff you mix and its on there and no budging i get a tiny leak when the BOV goes off and the spray goes backwards...other than that it seems to be fine I even ran it at full spray with the test button (this aem kit is pretty nice for the money) while revving around 4-6k and it didnt hesitate I changed the spark plugs as well (what a pain in the aaaasss stupid ass intercooler location) It had TRD iridium spark plugs ( covered in oil blegh) I wonder about the oil catch can If its something I can do myself with my limited tools and knowledge I have the kit in my car ill look up a how to do that...I cleaned the insides of about everything with carb cleaner it was quite cheap a can for 5 bucks...the spark plug cables are nice 8mm thick made in usa stuff looks like quality I must say after revving with the water injection my intercooler was quite cool...I also put in about 2 liters of red coolant in the w2a and my low boost issues are still around...gonna change battery tomorrow to help my low battery problems...

Ok I searched and found threads but no pics of a step by step of how to set it up...any one got a pic and paint skills?

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Feb 11, 2011 - 12:11 AM

i have a feeling you need new pistons/rings.....that sounds like waaay too much blow by oil earlier in your thread..

Hi,

i don't know the conditions of your country but you should run as much water as possible in the intercooler to get the most power out of them

the liquid you use must have a high specific heat capacity to conduct the heat safe and constant, water have the highest
water also have a higher heat transfer against anti freeze

i'am driving a 1:1,5 mix anti-freeze: water and 2% millers extra cool, it is safe down to -20°C which i need here in austria

greetz

seriously just regular distilled water? why not regular glycol green stuff coolant isnt that cooler than water? I think I might need new piston rings I hope not, BTW with the WI im getting up to 8 psi now I seem to be getting like 2 psi more than before and as I have said before my turbo oil seals are most likely gone as it only seems to smoke when revving hard

Hi,

in most cases destilled water is aggresiv in front of a high ph-value (~10)
check the PH-value of the destilled water before you fill it in, is should not be higher as 7,5

demineralized water is the best liquid to transfer heat, no one had ever developed a better fluid

glycol/alcohol have a low specific heat capacity and a bad heat carriage (wall to water and water to wall)

it is the same on the engine coolant system but you should use a corrosion protection (also in the intercooler)

- a minumum of glycol should be used
- clear the old/drained water through a air filter and re-use it, the old water is devolatilized

greetz

why thanks for the Info, why does everyone on here use the red stuff though? I'll put in water with anti corrosion and see if I get better performance

just put coolant in, stop beating around the bush and do the right stuff.