Help ? yes, solve the problem ? no

you need to stop taking short cuts, you need to tune SAFELY the setup you have, if you dont want to spend the money on bigger injectors, set the car to the maximum boost your current setup can take SAFELY and wait until you get bigger injectors capable of handling whatever airflow your turbo will be pushing at 20 PSI.

BTW if you add up the cost of all the little cheap fixes and shortcuts you have taken this far, you could have fixed your stock setup and have a reliable car that is fast and fun.

my advise to you would be to drop the car at a GOOD mechanic, let him fix the car ( without your input ) once the car is running, stop driving it like you are 2 years old and start reading A LOT so that you can later decide what to upgrade and how to fix the car yourself. Over the years I've learned, you can pretty much find any information you need here, people will help you, and offer their input when you are in trouble, but when you ask how to remove a bolt and the next day ask what's a wrench, and later what socket to use, you'll either get no response or better yet an unload of sarcasm and jokes.

Wise wise wise wise very wise =)


Oh btw finding a GOOD mechanic in Paraguay is like finding a lawyer that doesnt lie.

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Apr 6, 2011 - 11:20 PM

Hey are you up and running now? Do you have an AFR gauge? Let us know what safe limits you find on your new turbo with the stock ecu and fuel system, With and without water. I'm in the same situation as you I don't want to go CT a 3rd time, finding a good one is like looking for a needle in a haystack.

Wow, that engine bay looks like a mess..good luck on getting it all wrapped up though and hopefully running soon.

Thank you guys. As of now Ive got 2 adapters but its going to be a pain we have to clock the turbo and curve the adapter to the manifold a bit. The mechanic checks the AFR with a wideband sensor thats what he told Me i will have a narrowband AFR in the cockpit just to make sure I am not going into the red with this. I probably wont do it WITHOUT water lol the whole point is to see how far I can go stock with magic Water and Alky..

Yeah my CT was pretty raped in japan it had pieces coming off the fins apparently, it was romped to the point where it was losin oil allover the place and putting it in my intake.

And yes the Bay is a mess but that will change that AC hose is somewhat malleable and a pain in the ass the throttle cable is a long ass POS aswell these cars have their steering column changed by mediocre people in chile and I must say this one on the inside is pretty well done...not so good on the engine bay side but good enough that I still have A.C.

I take short cuts because I have no job and no Money . I cant spend $ on a 2K$ turbo So I have to make ends meet with what I have. I'll shortcut the hell out of this until I find out where it works and where it doesnt. I break something its just another reason to get forgies and borrow money/

there is no way of saying this with out sounding like a dick, ur slowly killing a car that people over here would kill for. invest in the proper parts and service. it will help alot in the long run. people keep telling you short cuts are going to get you know where....id start listening because these people have a hell of alot more knowledge and are only trying to help

I see your point. There are plenty of ST 205´s down here. I feel in no way that I am killing it. All I am doing is removable its not like I am giving the car to jeremy clarkson. Yes its a chinese turbo. No reason to discredit it because of where its made. I feel that if the proyect succeeds. Great for me, frown for you and the world still goes round. If it fails. flame on you can say I told you so as many times as you need. I searched for the limits. I found none. I´m in a search for the limits of the car even if i must wreck it to find it. you can post my example to others. hows about that?

Can´t buy a 205 in the states? move down here its like 6500$ for one, life is cheap no stress. no terrorists no speeding laws no highways. People retire and come down here and live with maids. our currency is worthless.

Ok the turbo now doesnt fit because of the internal wastegate! :S going to have to go with an external waste gate! SCREAAAAAMMEERRR PIIPEEE!!!

turbo didnt fit at all because of the rad. fan. its not a slim fan I'm going to try going with just 1 fan see if no temp spikes up and if the turbo fits we have to see if the internal wastegate will also fit big work day tomorri

Hang in there buddy I'm in the same situation as you, I'm actually choosing the sensible option gt2860rs

.

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jun 25, 2011 - 11:24 AM

I just ordered a BEE*R 2 stage Rev Limiter, should be here in 2-3 weeks, I know Ive seen an engine build on here with it, my question is how can I install this onto my car and over ride stock Rev limit and have the car rev atleast into 7.5 to 8k

you just bought the wrong item,

this is to set your ignition cut instead of a factory fuel cut, so that your engine doesn't run lean during hard driving. it will in no way raise your red line,

I know that, I bought for the launch control aka Bang bang lol...I already have a FCD

my question is. How do i eliminate factory Redline and use BEE-R redline or is this ECU only territory

Oh and I read that it is wired to know when you step on the clutch and as soon as you let go it sets the ign cut back to what you have it set to...from what I know the 7gen celi starts via clutch so it must be some sensor the 6gc Does not have, I know it can be wired to the E-Brake I just know it will be more convenient launching with both hands on the wheel than with 1 on the E-brake , plus the feet hand eye butt coordination

This post has been edited by Neon90424: May 11, 2011 - 10:42 PM

unfortunately theres no way to override the rev limiter without a standalone engine management system, which most come with launch control capability anyways.

sorry bud!

hows that turbo coming along? is it running yet?

making the adapter took a very long time, infact its still not done, we had clearance issues with the radiator, but any time now it should be up and running...

tiny update

BUIIILD IIS ALMOOST FINISHED!!!

My review is as such...

My suspension is crap and it must be changed. The KKR 480 turbo is a bit laggy on the bottom end, I have yet to put the fuel cut defender and boost controller on the external wastegate. I get about 12 psi maybe in 2nd gear at tops... this thing once it gets to 4000 RPM is a monster after 10 psi its like it adds by 3 psi every second the boost controller shows it go to 13.7 psi in 4th gear and I got some shuddering at 5000 rpm maybe because I haven't calibrated the Water injection very well I may be drowning it as I am using the 350-400 horsepower injector (550cc) and the progressive pump has to be set to start around 5 psi and inject maximum to 25 psi so I dont drown it..

any input or questions anyone




EDIT

I checked the AEM manual and the 550 ml injector is good from 250-450hp so It cant be that and I dialed up max psi and I dont get that shudder anymore, I installed the Bee-R rev limiter and it sounds pretty bad ass! on my way home i tried a 4th gear pull and hit fuel cut twice, hit the boost controller warning of 19 psi and recorded a peak 20.2 psi. car turned off, i turned it on again, it turned off and I coasted a block or so and it turned on, no weird noises no complaints just smooth sailing back on home. scared me though...pics and vids on request

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jun 17, 2011 - 5:59 PM

I think that the oil catch can I bought is a bottleneck to my car since today I had the fun experience of having the oil from the dipstick squirt out at 15 psi allover my windshield! big smoke cloud...

1 question, if under 10-15 psi of boost should my breather issue a faint blue smoke? every time...my piston rings are gone arent they?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKYdqKrgLxA

here's a vid of the bee-r launch control with the exhaust thru muffler and thru cut out


This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jun 19, 2011 - 1:06 PM

you definitely need to do a run with a wideband kit to see where your leaning out (with that turbo im sure you will lean out over 15psi) and add water bit by bit until the engine feels the best (like on my setup i can feel when it leans out and pulls the timing)

from what i can gather, most turbos same size and bigger than stock they dont start pushing more air than stock until the higher psi range, so under stock boost it should be fairly stoich, so i guess you could hold off on the water until maybe 8 or 10psi

yeah I figure i should buy a wideband with gauge kit off ebay cuz i have no ideawhere i am with the factory sensor

I Installed a FCD but havent gotten around to setting it right because I cant even reach fuel cut with my problems now...

I bought an AEM UEGO BOSCH OXYGEN WIDEBAND SENSOR off ebay for like 40$ I hope it works and I bought a 60mm gauge it should be here by next week or so my current distributor wire is causing mayhem on my top end so I cant really even boost past 7 or 8 psi without it going berserk.


Got new wheels Advan Replicas ofcourse...








This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jun 20, 2011 - 4:15 PM

Well I have ordered new cables, tomorrow I am ordering new brake pads, and as to the smoke from the breather lines I am convinced (havent done a compression test yet tho) that the blow by is being caused by the synthetic oil I put in, will put in an additive to make it a bit thicker and see what happens. As the turbo part Is over I guess this can be moved into the PROJECT section (if any mods, or any one, is reading this[im pretty sure some guys want my car to burst into flames with me in it])

My rear diff mount is dead so that will be changed, my 25mm spacers are too wide and I will have them machined so that the wheels may actually fit inside the fenders. rotors will be resurfaced and new hawk pads are coming, new sparkplug cables and distributor cap on its way so I dont lose any lightning in high revs... BTW

I put in 5 liters of E85 (Alcohol and 15% gas) into my W.I. and the spray opens at about 3-4 psi But i still get that butt dyno feeling where It just kinda stops pulling on the high end...around 13 or so psi...ofcourse I shall tune accordingly with the FCD once the repairs are done ( new suspension should arrive...ahemm.. MUST arrive next week...it will be like christmas in july

Here's a vid hitting fuel cut in second gear...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mbwwG4jROo

I just removed fuel cut and even boosted up to 23.1 psi, my breather tubes spewed oil is this normal? allover the place My rings are shot arent they? Im going to buy forged pistons and just get this **** over with.

>

sound like rings are shot, and the blow by is forcing the oil out the breathers, but do a compression test just to be sure.

you cracked a ringland, prolly in #2 or 3, thats why your spitting oil all over the place.
2 step (the BeeR) is murder on stock pistons, wouldnt doubt that being the cause, if not the overboost with the larger turbo.

thanks for the input guys Is my car driveable in NA (no boost) I dont want to tow it...

I am going to buy forged rods and pistons I am going for the CP / Eagle combo for 775$

an ARP bolt set and a headgasket set probably any suggestions guys?


Im gettin my list together


basically its a


Complete gasket set
Forged Eagles Forged CP pistons
ARP Headbolt set
750cc matched injectors
power FC and commander
Walbro 255



This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jun 26, 2011 - 9:43 AM

Its going to be about 4400$ to get all this in and have the car re finished/detailed so it should come out brand spankin new at 400-450 horsepower



Car runs fine im drivin it down to the mechanic

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jun 26, 2011 - 2:08 PM

Build isnt starting to seem so cheap anymore lol...good to see you are going down a better route...man this thread should be a sticky....btw, might i ask why you are going with the PFC, and not something else...Also, where are you buying your pistons/rods from...i hear that on ebay they are usually stupid cheap..