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GT-FOUR El Franjeado - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #77540 294 posts Started by Neon90424
you will need to grind a little bit on the head to allow the cam to fully rotate, but no shimless conversion needed for you.

the grinding that is needed can be done with sand paper, it's barely 1 oe 2 mm and it doesn't affect anything, once the cam is bolted in place, and you try to rotate it you will see exactly where it hits. very easy to do.
thanks man I appreciate it! I will check into that!

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manifold came for 2nd gen...Found a 3rd gen manifold plate in UK and ordered it...

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Sep 10, 2011 - 5:58 PM

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0075 090911 2011-09-09 FIBERGLASS EXHAUST HEADER WRAP
0084 090911 2011-09-09 COOLING SYSTEM WATER WETTER
0086 090911 2011-09-09 TIMING BELT COVER
0322 090911 2011-09-09 TOYOTA THERMOSTAT
0414 090911 2011-09-09 CARBON FIBER CLOTH BLUE
0419 090911 2011-09-09 TIMING BELT KIT TOYOTA
0435 090911 2011-09-09 UNIVERSAL TRIPLE GAUGE POD
0526 090911 2011-09-09 TOYOTA CELICA HEADLIGHTS
0528 090911 2011-09-09 TOYOTA FILTERS
0544 090911 2011-09-09 KNOB
0546 090911 2011-09-09 FLYWHEEL
0562 090911 2011-09-09 OIL COOLER KITS
0570 090911 2011-09-09 CARBON FIBER
0576 090911 2011-09-09 CELICA HOSE
0597 090911 2011-09-09 GASKET

smile.gif full of JDM WIN on the way!

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Sep 10, 2011 - 6:00 PM

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You start getting parts in yet neon? Hopefully you can get it back up and running painlessly
I picked the parts up today!

Thermostat = 2nd gen
timing belt cover = 2nd gen mr2 (will modify it)


my Recaro knock offs weighing 37 kilograms = 650$ worth of shipping = twice of what I payed for the pair of seats, are in miami and about to ship..

Still waiting for the brian crower goodies to get my head put together and my friend left yesterday to chile I hope he can smuggle the Power FC out and back to me biggrin.gif!

The oil cooler kit is really nice and love its filter relocation kit has 2 sensor holes for the oil temp and press!

oh and...I WANT MY EFRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR RAWRRRRRRRRRRR! I got the OBX stainless header and ordered a few vband flange kits to turn my exhaust into vband fun and non leaking old bent pos exhaust!

the trd CF knob...no idea how to put it on!

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0740 091611 2011-09-16 BOSCH WIPER
0743 091611 2011-09-16 RACING FANS
0784 091611 2011-09-16 VALVESPRINGS RETAINERS
0785 091611 2011-09-16 VALVESPRINGS RETAINERS
0787 091611 2011-09-16 VALVESPRINGS RETAINERS
0800 091611 2011-09-16 AUTO PART
0807 091611 2011-09-16 TOYOTA STUDS

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I'm confused...How did it seize? "Driving it NA like" doesn't make any sense....???
It didnt seize, the timing belt snapped and it wrapped around the tensioner and wouldnt let me crank the engine...a fake seize I guess, I was driving it NA kinda because the max boost I got was 1 psi because its internal wastegate was rattle to **** open by launch control therefore giving me 0 spool whatsoever making me believe I shot the turbo but it was just that stupid detail...

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This thread is about to become ALIVEEE again Updates starting tuesday! lotta pics as soon as my new camera comes in! apparently the thermostat was getting stuck which caused the overheating... Fidanza cam gears arrive on tuesday so hopefully the head will be sent to be machined and put together! still no idea on when i get my PFC tho I might have to work with the stock ECU on 272 cams and stock injectors...hmmmm

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Small Update!


The head has been worked and put back together with the brian crower stage 3 kit, the Radiator was apparently full of mud when they put a hole in it to clean it.
Flywheel has been installed as well and I still have not got my PFC so 850cc injectors are not going on without it...

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projectors are in...




Engine , turbo and oil cooler lines







This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 5, 2012 - 1:40 PM

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having problems with the turbo touching the starter which will be dealt with by grinding the starter housing a bit..only need 2cmfor the EFR to fit, the wastegate will have to be cut and moved a bit more inside because it DOESNT fit at all...its a tight fit...thats what she said.










Here lies the problem





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Aren't you able to move the wastegate bracket around the compressor housing to get some space? IIRC, BW have 15° increment holes to fix the wastegate bracket, maybe you can move it.

Sam
thanks pal yeah i thought of that but it only goes one way you cant bend the waste gate around the turbine which is the main problem right now...

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You cant just clock the turbo...i know they have a "how to" on their site on how to do it..might help give you the room you need...

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There is just no way...I can move it lower but thats exactly where there is no room look at this pic...If i Could mount it somewhere else perfect but it just aint happening... the problem is because of the pre-made exhaust manifold...its not custom, and I am not going to pay 1200$ for a custom manifold..


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Hi,

consider a cutom mounting plate for the actuator if possible

greetz

KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE
You can clock it and repostion the wastegate...start at page......69 (lol) and read from there...or read the whole document if you want...its worth the read....btw when you get the chance to post up dyno's please do so..would love to see the figures on that thing!

http://www.turbodriven.com/files/pdf/efr_t...nical_brief.pdf

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Nov 4, 2011 - 1:55 PM

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Yeah sunny Yesterday we agreed on a custom wastegate actuator bracket and cutting the actuator shorter and re welding it so that the wastegate is infront of the water nipple thing.

3waystunna: I read the manual and by clocking the turbo Its actually joined like a Vband so the WHOLE cold side of the turbo doesnt turn just the outside of it which is pretty clever but still, if you look at the picture my actuator would have to go on the other side of the turbo, and there is only 1 wastegate hole and cant be accessed from the other side..., If I had a FMIC I could just mount the turbo the other way around, hot side on the right cold on the left and no problem the wastegate would face the radiator...but i'm using the chargecooler which will also be tricky to mount since this seems to be shorter... pics and updates soon!

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Hi,

it is the best way i think too

one more thing, when i did my gearbox & egnine oil radiator build i found that the position with the connectors downward is not good becouse it is not possible to get air out of the system

in your situation i would clock the radiator 180° and would route the lines through the hole next the right headlamp (away under the cooling panel, use rubbers to protect the hoses from abrasion)

another quick tip, go for a export spec gearbox radiator which is bigger and plug & play



greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Nov 4, 2011 - 6:02 PM

KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE
Yeah sunny I wish I could follow your advice but I am having some fitment issues this was actually the only place I could stuff the oil cooler rad, It should flow constant pressure though shouldnt it? air should leave the system once it fills? I actually just re-read that about 4 times.... I will see what I can do...I thought you wanted the rad sideways....

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Nov 4, 2011 - 8:00 PM

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Hi,

the problem is that oil is heavier against air, both connectors look down......there will be a air bubble in the rad

a friend of mine did it this way



greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Nov 5, 2011 - 1:27 PM

KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE
Yeah I informed my mechanic about it and he understood right away...we are going to go behind the LEFT high beam because I dont really want to route the oil lines next to the down pipe but under the turbo, I am going to relocate the battery and mount the 2nd filter there somehow... I already bought 8 meters of 0 gauge. and audiophile terminals.

BTW I read most of the 126 pages of the EFR ( lolled at the Earth Friendly Racing [there is no such thing, we all know racing kills kittens]) and there is no way to move that wastegate where it wont bother me, I will have updates and a sore arse on monday (gotta pay the mechanic)

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HELP GUYs I have a problem with my fuel system, apparently I don't get any fuel pressure, the boost gauge is stuck all the way up, the fuel pump fuse gets "stuck" which is what my mech says, injectors get no power, car starts if gas is poured into the intake.

any ideas?

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New pictures











This post has been edited by Neon90424: Nov 22, 2011 - 4:20 AM

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