3WayStunna

#61

I dont know why people insist on using anti-freeze in the chargecooler. Unless you have to deal with freezing conditions, which im sure the OP dosent then i dont see the point. As i have said in another thread, distilled water and water wetter is a gauranteed method to keep temps down by itself.

Water alone is able to hold more heat and transfer it away from the intercooler better than any other liquid tha would not otherwise be hazardous to engine ops. Why mess with those properties (aside from any corrosion problems) if they can do well on their own.

IF cooling of the intercooler is a problem, i can assure you, either lagging the chargecooler, increasing the size of the chargecooler radiator, or making the chargecooler itself larger, could solve any cooling issues (or maybe a combination of any or all of those methods) up too 350hp at the wheels!!.

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Feb 12, 2011 - 11:32 AM

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mak5603

#62

>

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Feb 12, 2011 - 10:21 AM)

>just put coolant in, stop beating around the bush and do the right stuff.

Dude, your just ripping on him to rip on him...you obviously didn't read the last few posts suggesting the use of distilled water, not coolant. Making what you just told him to do (put coolant in to avoid beating around the bush) beating around the bush according to what everyone else is saying...

Just sayin

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2006 BMW 330i - 6 Speed - Dinan Stage 12014 Toyota Rav4 XLE

Neon90424

#63

I put in water and then just drained it and put in coolant! didnt help! BUT I DID BUY CARB CLEANER ! I unplugged the hoses from the stock oil catch can thing and sprayed it in both ways getting a hole bunch of gunk out and behold...MY BOOST CONTROLLER GOT 15.7 PSI!!!!!! and I was boosting constant 12 psi!!!...Then it seems it fell back to 8psi again...but It was like having a new car so what do you guys think? I re sprayed it and i got it working for a few minutes again and its back in safe mode it seems...maybe changing that catch can for a real one?

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Neon90424

#64

well the car is now at the mechanic and the engine bay lies in pieces...the ct20b was to blame for the oil, infact it was even covered in it.

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alex_xp

#65

Oye Neon90424 el auto te lo trajiste desde Iquique???
Saludos

Neon90424

#66

Lo compre de una playa local y me imagino que este lo trajo de chile pero no se que parte de iquique. Vos estas en iquique?

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alex_xp

#67

No, estoy en santiago, pero tengo varios amigos y contactos que me traen cosas de iquique.
Yo tengo un coupe con motor 7A que lo importaron desde EEUU, espero hacerle un swap de motor pronto.
Saludos

This post has been edited by alex_xp: Feb 22, 2011 - 11:29 AM

miguelst205

#68

People, please don't think that only exists projects like this in my country or persons who only make this type of cheap builds... Here we have a lot of type of people who have diferent concepts of how to make a good tune up...

I'm in another city, but in all the country we have excellent projects going on... like a Subaru Impreza STI 2007 and my own GT-Four 1997 which is in process...

I will make a thread of my project soon... so you may see that we do things right here..

And that statement "Cheap Parts Build, South America Style" is false... I would like that Neon talk for himself and not for everyone here in my country or in the Continent...

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Neon90424

#69

i'm fine by that its my car i am wrecking in the end and yes there are many high end builds down here and we are not primates...we just lack dynos to prove them.

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Neon90424

#70

According to my mechanic the windshield wiper fluid contains ammonia and is extremely corrosive my question is what damage could that cause if it is that bad if i keep running my w.i. with this fluid?

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presure2

#71

It depends on the brand. Most contain methanol as an antifreeze agent, which is actually a good thing because it raises the octane level.
I ran we fluid in my wi kit for years with no issues, and art (Lagos) has been as well

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Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered

Neon90424

#72

this one is just regular alcohol with water amonia coloring etc

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Culpable04

#73

in warmer climate countries, they are not concern about freezing points as temperatures don't go that low, so their windshield washer fluid is formulate as a glass cleaning liquid, ammonia is the most common cleaning agent in glass cleaning products. ( check the label of windex or any other glass cleaning product you have at home )

If the fluid you are using contains ammonia ( at any level ) you should stop using it, as your mechanic said, it's highly corrosive.

the best you can do is buy methanol and distilled water and mix it yourself ( 50/50 )

Neon90424

#74

meth is almost 2$ per liter make that like 8$ a gallon down here...I was recomended injecting straight alky

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Culpable04

#75

straight alky meaning straight alcohol ?

if so, that would be fine as long as you understand the limitations of that.
straight alcohol will increase your octane but it won't do as much to cool down your mixure / combustion chamber. so detonation may still occur at high rpm / psi

Neon90424

#76

what ratio do you recomend for a hot climate?

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Culpable04

#77

50 / 50 has been proven to be the best of both worlds, increase your octane and cools down your temperatures, can't go wrong with that, also it depends the size of the nozzle you are using and how many PSIs you are running.

Sunny

#78

Hi,

methanol i very aggresiv especially to metall and also flameable
but give you the benefit of a increased knock level

if you just want to cool the charged air and exhaust temp. then just use water

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Mar 1, 2011 - 5:45 PM

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KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE

Neon90424

#79

Ok the turbo adapter should be done by today and i might get some pics of how the new lung fits in there

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Neon90424

#80

Everything is going to come together tomorrow. Mechanic said that the target boost pressure is 20 psi.

What power levels am I looking at here? anyone know how much HP you get from 20 PSI Wat/Meth on a 3sgte with a good free flowing exhaust?

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Culpable04

#81

make sure the turbo doesn't outrun your fuel pump

or thing will go pufff !

Neon90424

#82

Putting in my gearbox has been a major pain in the ass to the mechanic any helpful tips ? I think they have to take the transfer case off to put it in not much room and it aint cooperating.

P.s. I took apart the exhaust side down pipe thing with the cowbell and the down pipe is Cat-less BLITZ another thing to add to the amount of nice JDM stuff on the car... too bad the TRD springs and struts were dead as a zombie

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Mar 19, 2011 - 9:28 AM

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Sunny

#83

Hi,

put out the engine is the best way to mount/dismount the gearbox

greetz

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KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE

Neon90424

#84

Lol ok I'll tell that to them the next time we try to do something... I will be giving a review as how the Godspeed turbo holds up, boosts, oil leaks etc. we are shooting for 20 psi with the map clamp

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Neon90424

#85

Still on standbye any predictions as to power range or anything exploding?

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delusionz

#86

Have you done anything about your low boost ct20b?

Didn't you say that you put a hole in your throttlebody rubber joiner?

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Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs

Neon90424

#87

The low boost was the ecu's emergency mode and I have given the turbo to a friend who had it repaired and put it in his 185.

pictures gallore! let the flaming ensue!!

heat wrapped intercooler and rad in the trunk...



the broken under brace



rear all clean


this is how she is



the mechanics 7 second 8th mile machine


engine bay



turbo n stuff in the back



local subbie waitin in line









this is how the clutch was


new clutch



she wouldnt go in



the downpipe



How the car is atm

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Neon90424

#88

Ok Now my mechanic said we are shooting for 20 psi with the Wat/Meth my question is this...I was googling and youtubing lol for 20 psi on a 3sgte. Everything I got was 400HP RWHP on the MR2's so obviously 300ish or so AWHP is my guesstimate taking into account the 30% loss from the 4x4.

Is the stock fuel system + FCD clamp + Wat/Meth with a 550CC Injector going to cut it or will I lean out? anyway around this?? an extra injector maybe??

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Culpable04

#89

stock turbo + water injection + 20 psi is ok, as long as you are addding enough water / meth to keep temperatures down

but you are using an aftermarket turbo, so you'd have to calculate how much more air can this new turbo move at 20 psi, chances ae 20 psi will be a little too much for stock fuel system.

Neon90424

#90

raising the fuel pressure with a 255LPH pump will that help out the stock fuel system??

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