You all should know. This thing sounds angry. I mean it, like it's about to rip off your head and s hit down your neck.
Impressive for natural aspiration....
I have 1 problem though... The open exhaust is giving me issues with the ecu tuning itself.
Richee3 tells us that a constrictive 2 inch exhaust makes it rich.
I can tell you no exhaust makes it run LEAN.
40 min of driving and it started to hesitate, bad.
Get home, unplug ecu, change worn out oem plugs with new ones and it ran like a scalded dog.
So, next purchase, custom 2.5 inch exhaust.

Oh, I know it was lean because it definitely wasn't rich. And the plugs were burnt like it was running hot... It was nearly un drivable on my way home. So would like to get an afm on it, but we'll get it silenced down first.

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Mar 10, 2013 - 10:08 PM

Make sure you clean the MAF and is the 02 in the dp ?

O2 is in the downpipe.
I don't think the maf is causing the issue because it's so..... Linearly progressive. But ill look iinto cleaning it for sure because that would be something simple. But everything was in the clip and stored so dust couldn't get on the sensor, but ya never know.
Thanks for the idea though.

Oh and would you consider a light weight fly a significant upgrade for performance?


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I've read on the BEAMS Owners Group that you can really only feel the lightweight flywheel in first and maybe second gear, but feeling the difference between Dustin's car and my car, I'd say its a decent upgrade. I can't say how much different it would be from the stock flywheel though. I'll be putting my lightweight flywheel in soon, then we'll have to meet up and compare them.

It's interesting that running open exhaust makes it lean... I know the O2 sensor doesn't trim fuel, only report rich or lean conditions. You should pull the codes to see if it went lean enough. I never ran ours with open exhaust more than 20 miles so we never had any issues like that.

No cel's... Does it still have codes then?

Yeah, just ground the TC pin in the diagnostic box. The only times I've seen my ECU illuminate the CEL was for the VVT solenoid when I unplugged it and for my speedo not working one day. I've pulled codes with no light for lean conditions, O2 sensor unplugged, TPS unplugged, and some other little sensor unplugged without ever having the light on.

This post has been edited by richee3: Mar 11, 2013 - 7:38 PM

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Do any of you guys have the torque specs for the BEAMS ?
A guy has a full manual on the BEAMS owners group... The mr2 site...
But won't really give me specific info on the torque specs

Also did u end up getting your full white BEAMS gauge cluster to work ?
Specifically the spedometer...

I found out you can make the full cluster work in a 5th gen... So I'm assuming you can in a 6th gen...
Just needing a confirmation...

torque specs are the same for beams blacktop altezza engine. there is pdf files for those.

or the torque i believe is the same for 3rd gen 3sge motor

2431 only code

24 31 sorry. Going to reset ecu and check again because both were maf related. I didn't have it plugged in earlier today and stated the car.

ugggh,



did u get the speakers brah!

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Are you 100% that the torque specs are the same for the 3rd gen 3SGE...
I was able to find the workshop manual for the 3rd gen

I can not find the BEAMS blacktop PDF I have searched all over...

I also found out there is a redtop manual floating around but i can not find that either...

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Yeah I got them! Thanks!

So I have no codes, none at all and its running like total garbage. I don't get it. Video in a min.

http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?f...zps334587a2.mp4

Any ideas, no codes.

http://s1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff473/...zps334587a2.mp4

Dunno if the links work or not.

http://s1237.beta.photobucket.com/user/ric...4587a2.mp4.html

da heck is going on? doesnt sound good

the same way mine acted when i first turned it on. My fault was i had not connected the o2 sensor on the b-pipe. make sure that o2 sensor was clean and or connected, or wires not cut. Also clean the maf, use maf appropriate cleaner.

my needle kept jumping up and down, and sometimes made the engine stall, mine did not have any codes whatsoever. this lets u know the beams is very finicky.

its not the maf. I can totally disconnect the maf and the same thing happens. I made sure that the plug and the coil had good connection. I replaced the pick up filter on the pump, and bought a new fuel filter (yet to be installed)

So where I'm at is I believe that it's fuel. I put a full tank of gas in it today and a can of Seafoam in with it in an event that's part of the problem.

My theory is that there was some issue with fuel pressure. I rolled the car over once and heard the pump prime, then when I knew I had pressure I turned it on and it ran GREAT.....for about ten seconds..
So given that was the original fuel pump that probably has 187,000 miles on it, It needs to be replaced anyway. So I'll probably bite the bullet on the fuel pump and just buy one. I doubt that the filter is bad because it was the filter from the clip, but I have one just in case.

Plan of action is to keep running it, and let the seafoam clean the injectors if they are dirty and monitor the situation. It runs pretty decent going down the road so as I empty part of the tank, I'm going to add a bit of Marvel mystery oil to help lubricate the pump as well, but I'm sure it's fuel delivery related....

possible other things to look at
intake pipe clamps are done up tight and no leaks
water temp sensor /circuit
ISCV (idle speed conrol valve)/ circuit
tightness of the throttle cable, throttle position sensor / circuit
spark plugs
reset ecu

when does it do it just cold idle? what about normal operating temp.?

Idle of all temperatures and states of ecu. Freshly reset ecu, or ecu that has seen an hours worth of driving.

Also brand new plugs.

Def fuel related. The longer I drive it, the " better" it gets. The seafoam and Marvell mystery oil seem to be working. New fuel pick up filter, newffuel filter, new plugs was still running like Crap. That leaves the old fuel pump, bought a new one, but im gonna see if this one improves out of curiosity

Oooookk.
So I was wrong. it wasn't fuel related.
In other news I now have a new fuel filter for a 7afe (fit the beams bracket perfect), and a new fuel pick up screen on the same old 190k mile fuel pump. Strangely, I felt more comfortable with an old oem fuel pump, than a brand new autozone replacement that I ALMOST put in the tank to try.

So long story is that I went out to the shop where my racecar beams resides, pulled off two of the COP's from on top of the spark plugs, came back to the house, changed out cylinder one with no difference in how it ran. Changed out Cyl #2 and it purred like a kitten. Put the old one back in, back to sucking. So I found the source. Now I'm down a COP for the race car.

But have no fear!! the 1zzfe is here to provide me with a replacement coil that is EXACTLY the same in every way. WROOONNGGG! apparently the dwell time and/or the wiring is a bit different. Some threads online were saying the Altezza RS had the one coil that was different from all other Toyota coils, potentially in the same family as this beams coil. In either case, I purchased an $87 1zz coil and it didn't work.... not even close.

So I found 4 on ebay and bought them tonight. But it now pulls HARD clear to redline.... still exhaustless.

Now to figure out these power folding mirrors. Killin me Anyone got any help on those?

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Mar 22, 2013 - 8:26 PM

Found out if I want toi use mjy 7 wire power fold mirrors I have to use the relay. I might be on the market for some 5 wire ones because I wouldn't have to do any additional wiring and I already have a working switch for that. As it turns out, my relay style switch was toast on arrival. Just more motivation to go the 5 wire route.

oh lawdy, go full jdm.....

ok do you know anyone with the 5 wires. because you might get awy with it with the 7 wires

2 wires retract the mirrors

2 wires set it back in place.

but if i recall correctly 2 of them are just grounds connected together.

so the other 2 are the polarity ones. so if u use the other two, and just invert polarity it may just work. or not.

if would be good to see the internals of a 5 wires mirror. in theory it might just work...

because all it is is just a little motor inside that shut down when the contact stops...

too bad this pic came too blurry....




oh, and the button for the relay, u dont need a jdm switch, u can have a push type button and make it work. The relays just need a +12v current for one second to be activated back and forth, thats what the pink wire does... just feeds that 12 volt current...

The whole switch is toast tho. Not even any mirror movement.

I tried to make it work 5 wire style, but I don't think it's possible.

did u just plug the switch, do u have rhd door harness. or lhd. because u have to invert the wires to use the switch u just cant plug it in

You need the other switch for the 5 wire setup, it has R516 on the back. It basically has a built in relay instead of the external and the wiring is a bit different.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Apr 6, 2013 - 8:12 AM

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I have EVERYTHING FOR BOTH MIRROR STYLES EXCEPT A SET OF 5 WIRE MIRRORS! lol . I have rhd door harnesses, I know the switch is bad f for the 7 wire / relay required mirrors because I hooked up my Lhd switch to yhe same pigtail and got mirror function, I hooked up my 5 wire r516 switch to the 5 wire pigtail I have and could adjust mirrors. I have ruled that out. I will either need to buy a 7 wire switch again,b and make a partially custom harness, or bite the bullet and buy 5 wire mirrors. Those are my only options because of my 96+ dash harness and 9495 door harnesses .....
Thanks for the ideas though guys.

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Best cup holder ever in a 6th gen! Way better placement than that crappy stock thing.