I hope so.
Ive got a few other parts im going to check to make sure everything is ok

what axle was that, stock S54? i sourced an E153 so im going to go that route

Yes stock s54 but i think it might have kinda been my own doing
I might have had the axle nut too tight an put it in a bind

Definitely don't leave the axle nut loose. Within a matter of miles, you'll need a new bearing. Ask me how I know

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How do you. Know Daniel?

lol the axle nut holds the bearing together so.... you may lose a wheel in worst case scenario

Idk if its possible to over-tighten the nuts...They are put on at like 150lbs from toyota.

I weigh 250 an i had to stand on my 2foot breaker bar with a 2 foot cheater bar on the end to get it to break back loose
idk how it got put on that tight

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Lol I do the same, and I weigh about 185..havn't snapped an axle yet, but yea I don't have that powar!

Im picking up a new axle tomorrow an finishing hooking up my oil pressure gauge an probably running alittle bit of seafoam through the oiling system for about 40 mile an hopefully clean out some sludge im sure that has built up in it over the years

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hey quick heads up.. i just put new axles on my car as well, and got the brand new ones from advanced, think they are called GSP. (not the remans they offer for a few less) On the driver side i got no problem, but the pass side i have a vibration that is defiantly related to the speed of the car, and after eliminating just about everything else im fairly sure that it is the axle.. i noticed that this replacement does not have (what looks to be) a dampener that was the OEM axle i removed. i was going to just simply cut a slit in the OEM one, remove it, put it on the new one and tie it on there using SS ties (like when used to tie header wrap).. but my suspicions of the device were confirmed when, i was about to start the cut, and seen that the rubber piece has a metal ring as part of the outer most ring... i have not decided if i will just go ahead and cut it off and try to use it any ways, since i do not want to put on a balancing device that i had to cut and possibly un balance it in the process of transferring it over..

either way.. i would go OEM for the axles. at least for the pass side for sure.. let us know what direction you went with this and if you encounter any issues plz..

good luck bro!!!

I have Autozone axles on mine for like 30k miles now... they're fine.

If your axel is unbalanced from the factory, I'd take it back and get it exhanced as it should still be under warranty

I have a reman pass side axle in my coupe frim advance that ive had no issue with

I prefer reman axlrs over newv

ive had more than one new axle that i had issues with but
Never had a bad reman

unfortunately i have to make a 1400 mile trip starting tonight.. i have 2 small leeks that i will need to address once i get to my destination, and will have to pull both axles to get to em (inner spline seals into diff are leaking) its not bad to the point that i cant drive on it, but i have just run out of time to do it now, and it will have to wait till i have a weekend to do em both at the same time..

Well got my paycheck
Its alittle short from my little vacation a couple weeks ago so looks like no new,brakes for me this week
but ill be getting the axle in the am an rebleeding the brakes
Them working out some bugs this weekend then hopefully hitting the track on the 25 to see what she can do in a 1/4 mile

Well
Think i know why my oil light was going on an off
im losing oil pressure
An shes wanting to over heat
The oil pump an water pump both run off the timing belt right?

Yes.

When do you lose oil pressure?

I started at 65-68 psi the i could rev to 2500 an it would be almost to 80psi then it falls off from there
Its also overheating (atleast ttying too)
I went from 70-80 psi now im down to 40

GRRRRRRR dislike

Dont know how this applies to our engines but could the pressure valve on the oil pump could cause this? Do you have a mechanical gauge attached to it or are you getting these readings off your OBD II port with your cell phone?

The first thing I would do is drain your oil into a clean container( like a large silver bowl/pot from the kitchen). Look for debris or sludge in the bottom or a metallic sheen in the oil itself. Refill the engine with heavier weight oil( 10W-40 or 20W-50 is the manual spec with the temperature where I live).
Check the coolant system and make sure it operating correctly. Sit and watch the engine through a warmup cycle, you can feel/measure the temperature for the thermostat and the coolant fan switch to open by touching the radiator hoses. Flush it if it looks nasty and make sure its full.

It hits 19odegrees in less than 4 minutes
Last week its stayed at round 180 after about 2hours
The overheating an the oil psi drop all happen at basically the same time

Kurt, what you are describing is normal. cold engines have higher oil pressure. when it gets to normal operating temp it goes down. what is its steady state pressure? if its over 35PSI thats ok. when you rev it does the pressure go up?

hhmm im not sure why you are overheating now. what have you changed? did you put in a new thermostat?

Ill check in the morning but i think itll start to go up then drop down as the rpms go up
Like something is slipping

I know as the car warms up the psi will drop but the way its acting doesnt seem right

did you replace the oil pump?
check tbelt tension.. and the oilpump pully.. ive seen multiples fail

Witch one is the oil pump pully

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Which....

I'm willing to bet it's the one on the oil pump.
Because oil is also used to cool the engine, failing oil pump may also be part cause for increased temp

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i just woke up an didnt think about that ill have ti fight with the crank pully to come off so u can get the lower cover off

yep.. the pulley on the pump itself ... they usually get loose and the play makes the hole for the shaft bigger and bigger(giggity) untill eventually it free spins on the shaft.

Why does that pump have to cost soo much
140bucks!! Fml shes parked for awhile