fail...

the pulley is like 10$ if thats all the issue is...

but id do the pump anyway

Id rather do the whole pump so itll be atleast 2weeks

Someone explain to me how the timing belt has caused the water pump and oil pump to stop functioning normally yet the engine is still timed correctly. Knowling little of the MZ engines, I'm still inclined to say that you would have much more serious problems than coolant temperature and oil pressure if you were having problems anywhere in the timing belt.
Dont jump to conclusions. The first step is diagnosising the issue not throwing money and parts at it. Are you sure 190 degrees isnt a safe operating temperature for your engine?


Have you checked the oil? Was there sludge or metal in the oil? Was the oil filter plugged?Have you checked, drained, flushed the coolant system? Are your cooling fans operating correctly? Is your thermostat opening up?
Do your oil pressure and coolant temp sensors work correctly, or are you getting false readings.

Dont replace parts till you know whats wrong.

I have aftermarket gauges in it so i know my readings are right
the stock t stat opens at 180 degrees
I checked the oilan its full an clean
The coolent didnt have oil in it eather from what i can tell

I know the engine temp going up could affect the oil psi
Since the hotter the oil gets the lower the psi it flows at
Um thinking i might start with a t stat an go from there

Edy makes a point here. I was simply pointing out the location of the oil pump pulley.

But 190 doesn't seem too hot .... I mean frankly, 10 degrees when parked.... that's not bad and it likely doesn't even show up on the stock temperature gauge of the car, only your aftermarket gauge. If everything else is checking out, coolant, oil looking good. and you are above 35psi on the oil pressure, I wouldjn't worry about it until you get WAY outta spec on something. to me, you aren't "out of spec" just not in the middle of spec. This is a swapped motor after all with many things missing, with wiring spliced, in a car with a gauge cluster it's not used to that has 150k miles on it. I'd get your axles worked out and drive it to work one night, or to the store, or down 347 one night on a cruise and see what that temp is while moving air across the radiator.... heat transfer is very finicky, so it wouldn't surprise me if 190 is just where your car will run.

However, given that you've see the change happen does mean something. But what exactly is hard to tell. Maybe some crud in the motor broke free and clogged your oil return line, screwing with your pressure reading? I mean any number of things are possible. I would just drive it around, to the store etc etc. and see if your numbers stabilize. If it gets worse, you have a problem, if they stay the same and are still within safe spec, I wouldn't worry about it..... A hotter motor produces more power anyway.

You should just drive it down to see the beams and really stretch her legs out! lol

You might be right im going to try an pump some oil through thr oil gauge line an see what happens
I think im going to change my t stat tho
Cuz thinking about it
The top hose was super hot an the lower hose had no heat to it at all witch makes me think it is probably stuck close

>
What location are you getting your readings off of? The factory temp sensor/ oil pressure location or an alternative location. I seem to remember you having an adapter spliced into the radiator hose.

Like ricochet said hotter is more powerful. A hotter engine will seal better(rings and such), vaporize fuel better, and thin the oil more which reduces the amount of HP required to pump it. Switch to a heavier viscosity oil, as long as the lowest expected ambient temp is above 60 - 70° F then 10W-40 or 20W-50 will be within specification for the 5sfe/7afe and most likely the 1mz is the same. Definately worth looking up if you want to boost that oil pressure

Are you running the stock radiator, and is this radiator slightly smaller than what the 1mz donor car was equipped with?

Another thought- arent the 5SFE/7AFE cooling systems reverse flow compared to most other engines and manufacturers within the industry? Could the 1MZ cooling system be the opposite of the 5S / 7A? I havent a clue but I'll toss that idea out there.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: May 14, 2012 - 1:02 PM

The water temp is about a foot maybe less away from the stock one
An yes it in the top hose

The oil pressure is coming from the oil sensor location

Im running a godspeed aluminum rad that is twice as the stock gt rad with 2 slim line fans and the hoses are hooked up like othe 1m swaps

hey, i have the god speed rad as well, i now have all of my gauges working and running well.. now my setup is a bit diffrent, but wile doing research on how i was going to set up all of my circuitry, one thing i kept running into was this: OEM t-stats do not open up untill 190-200 the 180 i got was one of the lowest e-bay ones i could find. if you go with mishimoto, TRD, or any of the more reputable manufactures you will still have a hard time finding a T-stat that will go any lower than it first craking open at 180.. also there is the rate or speed at which the T-stat opens... before i installed my newer t-stat, i tested my used OEM and the new e-bay one side-by-side.. in boiling hot water then ice water, and back... what i found was that the e-bay 180*DID open sooner, but the speed was pretty much the same as the OEM, so that both units would be wide open at pretty much the same time...

also.. there is this.. the fan switch that is used to activate the rad fans, is a temp probe that closes the circuit at a certain temp... now what i found (IIRC) was that there was about a 30* spread.. OEM T-stats opening at 190* and fan switch operate at 220* this is done done so that the fan are not always on, and only turn on to keep the car from overheating.. this is why when your car idles the fans kick on and off every so often.. now here is what is different about my set up though... i have an ST and on the rad is made for GT/GT-4 meaning there was an empty port at the bottom of the rad.. i decided to plug that port with a a cheap Harbor Freight temp sensor/gauge.. this being that the temp readings would be reading the temp of the water after it hit the rad, and before it goes into the motor...

so.. i have temp of water going in, we have t-stat controlling water flow to the rad that opens and closes its opening based on the temp of the fluid hitting it, and the fan switch that closes at only a certain point...

this gives me a very odd but insightful view of what is going on in this process.. untill the car is warmed up, and wile driving around my HF temp gauge is pegged to the bottom of the guage, pretty much useless..... BUT!!!!!!!! when im idling i can literally see my oem temp guage (like all of us) climb.. and then see my HF gauge climb as the t-stat starts to open, then at just a bit over 200* the fans will kick on.... and then watch my temps drops on the HF gauge....

this is all allot faster when i have been driving and then come to a stop.. all in all a nice and easy way of seeing that the rad and the rest of the system is doing its job..

now you are reading your temps for your gauge at the top of the water flow.. reading engine temps.. great.. but you gota think that the pump is still pushing some flow into the rad, and the t-stat may still be working right.. just barely holding the port a bit open at the temp the coolent is sitting at. And with the bigger rad,, the heat soak is going to be slower, meaning more time b4 the fans kick on. and seeing a temp of 190* imo is perfectly normal.

lastly i have to ask, but am almost sure of the answer.. did you keep any of the OEM fan shrouds or did you just put the two fans up against the rad w/ the supplied push through clips?

i chose to adapt the main fan's OEM fan shroud so that the new slim fan fit inside the OEM shroud. i did this for one main reason.. function.. the reasoning for a fan shroud is so that the fan can pull air through a broader surface area than the diameter of the fan itself.. remove the shroud, and you are removing overall efficiency of the fan ability to cool the rad.. stack that with the fact that the new rad has more than twice as much thermal mass to remove than the OEM rad= slower temp drop rate... meaning the fans will be on longer..

so a 190* operating temp now looks very normal.

when i finally get my project thread i will have pix of all of this.. but till then i hope my description will suffice..

hope this helps some.

Ok my fans stay on all the time an normally it takes about 15-20 minutes bfore the temp gets above 160 an thats just setting at idle righ now it jumps to 190 after about 5 minutes maybe alittle less
i chose to run the daul slim lines basically because of a lack of space
With the god speed rad the stock fans are almost tpuching the exhaust manifold
I might just pull the t stat out an see how it acts.
The factory 1mz t stat is a 180 degree stat btw.
Im really starting to think its my main problem

get a diff t-stat for sure.

Also,
Aluminum soaks up SOOO MUCH MORE heat it isn't funny... you have to weld aluminum at least twice as hot as steel.... so even with that, you are going to see a difference on start up... def need to heat the motor up I think IMO.

Wait witch side of the motor is the oil pickup on

id guess on the side the pump is on.. tbelt side

Kurt look at my thread where it tear down the 1MZ, the pics are all there. and on the 1MZ engine the oil pump is turned by the crankshaft. just like the ZZ engines. it is not like the 5S-FE that has its own pully.

This post has been edited by Smaay: May 15, 2012 - 9:11 AM

Ok. Ill try an look through it here in a few
The reason i asked where the pick up is at
Is because i still have her jacked up on the drivers side front so all the oil is setting on the pass side rear of the oil pan. So i was thinking maybe thats my problem at higher rpms atm. Maybe its tilted away from the pick up so theres no oil to pick up

a tilt shouldnt make much difference.. should be enough oil in there to make up for it

Idk ill try an figure it out soon
My buddy sam just got home from Afghanistan
So its been a busy day

>
Well the pickup is going to be wherever the sump is, the bulge that is the lowest part of the pan. The oil will be slung around more from turning than from jacking the vehicle.

We need a video of your oil pressure problem.

Ill try an get a vid tonight
The best way to explain it is like this
At cold start the gauge jumps to 80psi an stays there at idle( roughly 1100rpm)
then as i give it gas an start to rev the engine itll clime to 85psi by 2500rpm but then starts to drop back down to around 75psi by 5000rpm

that sounds normal to me

Is it an im freaking over nothing?
Ive never seen my psi drop on my 5s like that but it also doesnt go as high eather my 5s doesnt break 70psi eather

Ill get the brakes bled an the thremstat changed an see what happens

There is a pressure release valve, not sure what pressure its set to on toyotas though. It opens at a certain pressure and lets oil flow back into the sump.


The old saying is that you need at least 10psi of oil pressure for every 1000 rpms. Lol my old Chevy only turns 3psi @500 rpm once its gotten hot, even though it pushes 40psi @500rpm when its cold. Its been running like that for years thats just the way it is.

I think your just worrying too much. Of course its a great thing your paying this close of attention to your engine. So ultimately you get a cookie for keeping a close eye.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: May 15, 2012 - 2:42 PM

I hope you guys are right

>
Two very general statements-

As long as your below 200° F on the coolant temp your ok. 210°- 220° you need to stop your car and pour something cold over the radiator. I dont think damage will occur till probably in excess of 250°. So 190° isnt a big deal, so long as it stays consistant.

10psi of oil pressure per 1000rpms, so 65psi @ 6500rpm for example. Surely not the factory spec for your engine but so long as you stay above this threshold your getting plenty of oil. If you were to fall below this point you need to quit driving and do so investigating.

Well only pne way to find oit for sure lol
Still going to change the t stat but i really want to see how the oil pressure acts at warm up

yeah the pressure relief valve will open at a certain psi and close at a lower psi to try to keep a max pressure even

say it opens at 85psi.. and closes at 70... then your situation will be normal

similar thing for cooling fans.. turn on at 230* and off at 210*... its to keep it from rapidly switching from active to not...

Well ill work on her some tonight an get a fee things figured out an report back

updates?

Wife got sick at work last night so therr was no working on the car
but shes feeling better today
Im finishing up a couple small things under the car them im going to start her up an watch my gauges